: 1/2 ton springs on 2500hd?
se7enracing 09-13-2004, 04:16 PM Has anyone put a set of 1500 springs on their 2500hd to make the ride a little less harsh? I am considering it then adding airbags for when I do haul. I don't haul much but live in Seattle where I5 has the worst seams in the freeway and it just drives me nutz to be bouncing back and forth to work each day. If anyone has done it, do I loose any ride height? Do you have GM part #'s? How much should I expect to pay? Thanks in advance to anyone with any info... ~Jarrod
Crayz 09-13-2004, 04:19 PM I would say some Deaver springs would be a better way to go. Anyone?
se7enracing 09-13-2004, 04:21 PM I called Deaver, they want an arm and a leg for a custom one off set of their springs. Now if I lifted it, they sell them off the shelf for a reasonable price...
Crayz 09-13-2004, 04:23 PM I don't know for sure, but my guess is OE spring packs are not going to be cheap either. Maybe check out a set of 1500 deaver springs with a helper leaf, or maybe a set of 1500hd springs, they might be different.
tysmith 09-13-2004, 05:54 PM Bilsteins and some weight in the back. I think Kennedy ADDED a leaf to improve ride. Plus, you maintain the ability to use the truck as a truck.
Ty
baimpala 09-13-2004, 05:58 PM You'd be a lot better off with Bilsteins. A lot cheaper too than trying to make the 1500 stuff work with your truck. I looked at my Dad's GMC 1500 suspension when he was here, and it is NOTHING like the 2500HD suspension. I used to live in the Seattle area, and believe me the roads are great compared to where I am now. With the Bilsteins you won't sacrifice load capability. You can also flip the overloads, that's about as easy as it gets.
Dennis
BassinRVer 09-13-2004, 06:11 PM I have heard that the velvet shackles work good.
Turfmower 09-13-2004, 06:25 PM I added 2 leaves and 1 helper My truck rides better.
se7enracing 09-13-2004, 07:42 PM I have Rancho 9000s - that helped but I would like a bit more if possible. I can do the flip overload trick but I still don't think that is going to get me where I want to be... I know if I load the truck up, it rides a ton better, it is just the unloaded bouncing I hate. Hell if I can get it to ride like I have 300lbs in the bed I would be golden but that isn't possible for me...without a ton of crap back there.
snoman 09-13-2004, 08:02 PM Has anyone put a set of 1500 springs on their 2500hd to make the ride a little less harsh? I am considering it then adding airbags for when I do haul. I don't haul much but live in Seattle where I5 has the worst seams in the freeway and it just drives me nutz to be bouncing back and forth to work each day. If anyone has done it, do I loose any ride height? Do you have GM part #'s? How much should I expect to pay? Thanks in advance to anyone with any info... ~Jarrod
A far easier and cheaper solution is to take out a leaf or two on each side (start at bottom of stack with smallest leaf). Nice thing about this mod, is that yo can convert it back if need be. All you need is a few spring stack center bolts and a impact wrench to zips off ubolts attaching it to axle. A big c clamp to compress stack to install center bolt in stack is nice too. With air tools and jacks you can do a vehical in a little over a hour or so. I have done this a few times and most recently with a old J20 3/4 ton P/U I plan to restore. It was one nasty riding truck empty. I went from 7 leafs to 5 in front and from 3 full lenght 1/2 thick leafs to a side in rear to 2. It made a big improvement in ride quality but it is still far from mushy and will still carry well over a ton without sagging.
Amric 09-13-2004, 08:24 PM A far easier and cheaper solution is to take out a leaf or two on each side (start at bottom of stack with smallest leaf). Nice thing about this mod, is that yo can convert it back if need be. All you need is a few spring stack center bolts and a impact wrench to zips off ubolts attaching it to axle. A big c clamp to compress stack to install center bolt in stack is nice too. With air tools and jacks you can do a vehical in a little over a hour or so. I have done this a few times and most recently with a old J20 3/4 ton P/U I plan to restore. It was one nasty riding truck empty. I went from 7 leafs to 5 in front and from 3 full lenght 1/2 thick leafs to a side in rear to 2. It made a big improvement in ride quality but it is still far from mushy and will still carry well over a ton without sagging.
This is the route I went. I removed the longest rear spring, and have no problem towing my 7,000lb trailer and several hundred pounds in the bed.
Roegs 09-13-2004, 09:18 PM Bilsteins will not make it ride softer. If anything they firm up the ride.
Se7enracing...what are you running for tire pressure in the rear? Airing down to 45 lbs when empty will improve the ride considerably.
tysmith 09-13-2004, 10:03 PM Bilsteins will not make it ride softer. If anything they firm up the ride.
...but they will take out the bounce. Don't have 'em - wish I did!
Roegs 09-13-2004, 10:12 PM Bilsteins will not make it ride softer. If anything they firm up the ride.
...but they will take out the bounce. Don't have 'em - wish I did!
You're right that they will take out the bounce. For me, the ideal combination turned out to be OEM's in the rear, and Bilsteins in the front. My truck always bounced too much in the front, and the Bilsteins are firm enough to take care of it. When I ran them on the rear though, they were too firm for my liking. Shocks are a personal thing...everyone likes the ride a little different. On my '00 K2500 CC SB truck, the best improvment in ride came when I changed to Michelin LTX M/S tires. I could not believe that a tire could improve the ride so much. I wish the OEM tires would wear faster so I could get some Michelins..http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif
Sir-Col 09-13-2004, 11:18 PM Hello, let me offer a suggestion that will help, and does not degrade the vital components/ load capacity. This is a 2 tier fix...(1) remove the big overload spring at the bottom of the pack, take it to a spring shop and de-arch it 1/2 inch forward of the center bolt , and 1/2 inch to the rear of the center bolt. The de-arch should start just outside of the u-bolts (spring perch). This will allow a little more 1st stage spring travel BEFORE contact with the ever firm overload/2nd stage. Reinstall and (2) Install a set of velvet ride shackles. The net effect Will be a truck that rides quite nice, will haul the same loads, and will not suffer from excess spring wrap ( torque twisting ) with too light of springs....good luck, Sir-Col
Max Owner 09-13-2004, 11:53 PM Switch to D load range tires. Or C's. I switched down to C load range. Ride is a helluva lot better. I tow a 30' fifth. Pin weight is 1300 lbs (acording to brochure) Tires squat a little, but nothing to be concerned about. C load range is a standard 1/2 ton tire.
Truck came with the Bridgstone's. Truck rode good. Switched to Michelin M/S's at 265's, load range E. Truck rode like a tank. Switched to down loaded tires. Seems good, now.
BuckeyeQuicky 09-14-2004, 12:02 AM I think alot has to do with the short wheel base you have, because I test drove a 2004 Sierra Ext Cab/ 3500 single rear wheel and it rode like a Cadillac, thats why I went with the long bed.
snoman 09-14-2004, 07:14 AM Switch to D load range tires. Or C's. I switched down to C load range. Ride is a helluva lot better. I tow a 30' fifth. Pin weight is 1300 lbs (acording to brochure) Tires squat a little, but nothing to be concerned about. C load range is a standard 1/2 ton tire.
Truck came with the Bridgstone's. Truck rode good. Switched to Michelin M/S's at 265's, load range E. Truck rode like a tank. Switched to down loaded tires. Seems good, now.
You can basically accomplish the same by lowering the pressure on your present tires. Truck radials are not like old bias ply tires that the side wall got thicker with each rating increase.
se7enracing 09-14-2004, 12:09 PM Thanks for all the help guys. I actually am not running stock wheels and tires. Another issue that is hurting my ride is my wheel tire combo and this is something I know. If I can get my suspension as dialed and nice riding as possible (less bouncy) my ride will be good enough. I have Yokohama low profile tires on 22inch wheels and they actually flex a ride a ton better than the stock E rated tires. Alot of people doubt me when I say my 22inch wheel/tire combo rides better than stock but it does. Now I just want more. It seems, like life, I always want more... So I will try and remove the overload and see if I can find a shop to de-arc it. I have heard this option in the past... My .02 on Ranchos on soft settings in the back - really soft and cadillac like, BUT when the spring pack comes into play it gets rough...I run the tires at 40psi and that helps alot with the ride quality... Thanks again for everyones opinions and ideas.
BassinRVer 09-14-2004, 12:40 PM your CHEAPEST next thing that I would do if I had your setup would be the velvet shackles. I believe you can buy these for like $150.00 bucks.
baimpala 09-14-2004, 01:14 PM Some of the guys may call me crazy, but I felt like I got a less bouncy ride just by putting in air bags and keeping them at minimum pressure unloaded. Coudln't hurt, they aren't too much less than 250.00 for sure.
Dennis
killerbee 09-14-2004, 05:48 PM se7enracing
Read this thread and thought: Been covered a hundred times. But I'm like you, tinker till I die.
Lot's of good suggestions here. Mine? Flipping the overloads ($0 easy DIY job) is the best quality improvement you will make for the money. (You can remove them entirely if you are willing to buy new U-bolts) Dearching them is a waste of time IMO, I did it) Your airbags will carry the load, and the OL's are still there, just further away. The airbags do alleviate springiness because they help keep you off the overload springs (flipped or stock). And that is one key to ride comfort, empty or loaded. Airbags provide a measure of progressiveness not found on stock springs. See some of my posts, the graphs are there. that said, I have removed a leaf, and have decided to put it back. Because over moderate bumps I hit the overloads (which I know doubles my spring rate=buck) The airbags NEED the full 6.5" of extension (5 psi) to stay light. If you remove a leaf the airbags compress to 5" (closer to the overloads) and they provide a higher spring rate and much greater progression (lacking comfort IMO).
I have made observations, IMO do not remove a leaf unless you remove the overloads (or at least flip them).
Ride Height changes:
Airbags at 5 psi add 1/2", velvets (have not tried them but they are next) lower truck by 1", removing a leaf lowers by 1-1.5", removing overloads lowers 1", FLIPPING THEM IS A WASH. Keep desired ride height in mind, and if using airbags, maintain 6" minimum (deflated dimension).Edited by: masterp2
Mt. Hunter 09-15-2004, 01:23 AM My old '94 is a 2500, ext cab shortbed. Bouncing on washboard freeways was just intolerable. The factory shocks had no damping at all and were about worthless. Instal some Bilsteins and the ride was instantly excellent.
This new '04.5 2500HD is also a SB ext.cab, and the factory shocks were almost as worthless as those on the '94. Stock, the truck rode better than the old one but still bounced. So, the '04.5 got some Bilsteins. Now the ride is so good it just doesn't seem like a truck. Good shocks make a big difference.
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