Fellas-
Currently what weight are you running? I live in NC its sometimes gets down to 0 deg but mostly low teens, highest temp gets to be 100+ somedays. But I do make runs up north to Chicago and Erie,PA during the holidays. Just wondering what the masses out there run in there LBZ.

I am going to be switching to Amsoil in about three months...any thoughts?

Im running 5w 40 Rotella T synthetic.

So far, the dealer has done all my oil changes. They put in 15w40.

Shell Rotella 15W 40 at this time. Been thinking about going to a 5W 40 synthetic but don't know if I will make the switch or not. Also do a search on here and you will find numerous post on this subject. This topic has been discussed so much on here that its about worn out. Good info on here though.

PS: where you at in NC. Bound to be in the mountains if it gets down to 0 degrees?

mobil 1 15W-50 extended protection synthetic

You cant go wrong w/either 15w40 or 5w-40, either rotella or mobil one delvac. My recommendation is valvoline premium blue, cummins cat and detroit approved oil. Ideally youd put 15 in the summer and 5 in the winter.

15w-40 Rotella or Mobile1

Amsoil 15w40 full synthetic year round. We get up to about +32C in the summer and about -40C in the winter, hope this helps.

Rotella T synthetic 5W-40.

Mobil delvac 1 5w/40

what do you folks think of Delo 400 15w40. I have used it since new in an 02 dmax cc 4x4. 70k miles with no problems except left front wheel bearing. Yall come back now

mobil 1 15W-50 extended protection synthetic

WRONG OIL. It is for gasoline engines, primarily.

This oil's diesel rating is only CF. You should be running an oil that it at least CH, and preferably CI-4. Read your owners manual diesel supplement.


The Mobil 1 oils you should be looking for are Mobil 1 Delvac or its consumer oriented, identical blend twin, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck. They are CI-4 rated.

what do you folks think of Delo 400 15w40. I have used it since new in an 02 dmax cc 4x4. 70k miles with no problems except left front wheel bearing. Yall come back now

Excellent 15w-40 conventional oil. But, you don't say where you are. In zero and sub-zero weather, a 5w-40 synthetic would be better.

5w-40 if synthetic or 15w-40 mineral oil will be fine for those climates. The syn will be better on sart up in the colder climates.

The Valvoline Blue was made for the Cummins market to diffrentiate their recommend oil with a few additional additived. Over all not any better that The other high end diesel oils out there. As far as regular non synthetic diesel oils Delvac 1300 Super and Rotella T are the better ones out there.

Schaeffer's 200X with moly 15/40--oldest oil co. in the good old USA

Royal Purple synthetic 15W-40. Realtrucks.com has decent pricing. Other oils hard to find locally except Dino Rotella T which is at Cosco and Chinese Embassies (WalMart).

can you use a 5-40 full synthetic in the summertime though?? even pulling a load???

can you use a 5-40 full synthetic in the summertime though?? even pulling a load???

Yes. The 40 is the number you worry about when the oil is hot, not the 5.

damn NAPA guy!! he tells me that he only gets that mobil 1 synthetic and that its good for diesel trucks. guess i need to get the internet at home so i can read up more.

WRONG OIL. It is for gasoline engines, primarily.

This oil's diesel rating is only CF. You should be running an oil that it at least CH, and preferably CI-4. Read your owners manual diesel supplement.


The Mobil 1 oils you should be looking for are Mobil 1 Delvac or its consumer oriented, identical blend twin, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck. They are CI-4 rated.

Rotella 15w-40

Quote:
Originally Posted by chazmen
what do you folks think of Delo 400 15w40. I have used it since new in an 02 dmax cc 4x4. 70k miles with no problems except left front wheel bearing. Yall come back now

Excellent 15w-40 conventional oil. But, you don't say where you are. In zero and sub-zero weather, a 5w-40 synthetic would be better.



I live in St. George Utah - same climate as Las Vegas. Heat is the real problem. Glad to hear that Delo 15w40 is good stuff. So far its been a great truck especially when the 12000lb RV is hooked on the back.

I have been using the Amsoil AME 15W 40 for the last several years with the duel remote by pass. I sample the oil ever 6 months or so. Just top off and change filters as needed. have not change the oil yet.

I live in CT and have temps. that sound like yours. I have had it in -20f when in Canada with no problem; also been in 100f too.

If you are going to use a synthetic, you can't go wrong with amsoil AME 15W 40 or DEO 5W 40.

Best of luck,

Rich Sr.

I live in Hotter Then Hell Texas and use AmsOil Series 3000 5w-30 with the dual remote. Almost 44,000 milkes on curent oil, without drain plug being removed. Let oil analysis rule your decision.

I live in Hotter Then Hell Texas and use AmsOil Series 3000 5w-30 with the dual remote. Almost 44,000 milkes on curent oil, without drain plug being removed. Let oil analysis rule your decision.

How's your anaylsis looking? With your sump capacity even with oil anaylsis and a good oil, you might be beyond the capabilities of the oil. I would change it soon.

what about 10w30 in a diesel grade? I run bobcat 10w30 diesel engine oil, is that okay or no?

what about 10w30 in a diesel grade? I run bobcat 10w30 diesel engine oil, is that okay or no?

I think a 5w-40 would be better, especially in summer and with heavy loads. I would only run 10w-30 in winter, and only if 5w-40 or 0w-40 synthetic (sold in Canada) were not available to me.

what about 10w30 in a diesel grade? I run bobcat 10w30 diesel engine oil, is that okay or no?

10w30 will be fine for your engine as long as it meets the engine specs. All lube engineers preach lighter is better even in 70-90 degree temps. The oils ability to avoid shearing is better with lower ISO grades. The oil is designed to shear while passing through (behind the rings) and then bounce back. The lower ISO the easier it is to bounce back and not permantly shear.

How's your anaylsis looking? With your sump capacity even with oil anaylsis and a good oil, you might be beyond the capabilities of the oil. I would change it soon.

Thanks for your concern! However, the reason I have an oil analysis completed is to have definitive numbers showing how my oil and engine is doing. Opinions abound, but analyzing the oil is the ONLY way to make a qualified decision when to change only oil filters or oil and filters.

Thanks for your concern! However, the reason I have an oil analysis completed is to have definitive numbers showing how my oil and engine is doing. Opinions abound, but analyzing the oil is the ONLY way to make a qualified decision when to change only oil filters or oil and filters.

Fair enough. I'm an advocate of getting all the value out if good synthetic oils and extending the drains as long as possible, however there are extremes that can result in improper lubrication that an oil anaylsis will not bring to light. It will not breakdown the oil to a molecular level to see if the molecules have been sheared. Oil can and will wear out even if the additives, TBN and others qualities are still within specs. Oil is designed to shear as needed and spring back to provide long life. It does come to a point where it shears permantly and can't properly lubricate and the viscosity breaks down as well.

BigBadAllis
I disagree with your statement and you have to understand how a bypass system works. Whatever bypass filter system anyone runs and services as the manufacturer recommends and does the lab work does indeed know if and when the oil needs to be changed. The bypass systems are designed to trap the contaminants in our oil thus the additive packages are not depleted from the oil and they are free to keep gathering the contaminants and have them removed by the bypass filter system. Also whenever the bypass system is serviced you are adding fresh make up oil which replenishes any additives that may or may not of been depleted. I now have 40,000 on current oil and my latest lab report shows soot at .1ppm(soot level becomes harmful at 3.0ppm) and viscosity is still at 40wt. Oil is still clean and lab says I would be safe to extend service intervals another 2,000 miles.

BigBadAllis
I disagree with your statement and you have to understand how a bypass system works. Whatever bypass filter system anyone runs and services as the manufacturer recommends and does the lab work does indeed know if and when the oil needs to be changed. The bypass systems are designed to trap the contaminants in our oil thus the additive packages are not depleted from the oil and they are free to keep gathering the contaminants and have them removed by the bypass filter system. Also whenever the bypass system is serviced you are adding fresh make up oil which replenishes any additives that may or may not of been depleted. I now have 40,000 on current oil and my latest lab report shows soot at .1ppm(soot level becomes harmful at 3.0ppm) and viscosity is still at 40wt. Oil is still clean and lab says I would be safe to extend service intervals another 2,000 miles.

Were digging deep and probably will get good info out on both sides. If you see my statement, I said the additive packages will still be within spec and appear good, but if permanent shearing happens, you will not have a good lubricating and properly functioning oil. You will still have dispersants, VI improvers, antiwear etc, but with a failing base oil you can compromise a good set up. Even oil companies with the best PAO and PAGS and best synthetic packaged oils can't stop shear and base oil fatigue.

I agree with you BigBadAllis but analysis will catch base oil fatigue it might be to late for guys that don't regularly send out samples but for the rest it will show up on oil analysis. If the oils lubricating ability is compromised the wear metal numbers will go high on samples sent in and the lab will call you with recommendation so you don't have to wait for the report in the mail.

Fair enough. Makes the price per gallon more feasible when you can run it longer.

Jason