Finally got the piller mount mounted with pyro and boost in place, only the boost hooked up so far. Took a couple of pics, will post later.


Here's some numbers for the boost and i would like some help to try and get a little more out of this thing.


Standing start - Boost spikes to 14 then drops off between 5 to 8 depending on rpm and if its shifted or not.


Cruising @ 60 Boost is 2 psi @ 2100 rpm.


Cruising @ 60 and step on it, spikes to 9 psi then falls off shortly...


Well at least i got a boost guage now...lol


Will be hooking up the pyro as time permits, i would like to put it pre-turbo, will i need any gaskets or anything before i pull the turbo, can i use the old bolts or will they snap off on me? I need to be prepared for this as it will be done at work and parts will be a long way away!

the boost guage seems acuracte cause mine is just about the same.

CR,


It takes some work to remove the turbo side exhaust, but nothing should break. The exhaust is all 15mm bolts, some requiring a deep socket. I find it as easy to use my socket driver, as use the air ratchet (clearence issues). you have to drop the crossover and downpipe. Much easier to tap out of the engine, I'm sure.


now that you see how little boost you make unless you floor it, maybe you'll want to turn it up a psi or two with resistors. remember that a '00 will have only one sensor(MAP) and when/if you resist it, you resist both values.


That is to say that if you soder a 10K ohms off hte MAP, you'll get 10K on baro and MAP readings and see 2-4 psi higher across the guage.

QM


As I understand it my 95 K-2500HD should only have one sensor, that being the MAP. Would this be a correct statement or am I just missing the other one somewhere?

Bow I just got back from Spain,


Only 1 sensor on later model L65 not sure on earlier models, map & baro done thru same sensor, I think but not 100% sure OBDI has both a map on inlet & a baro on the firewall; L56 has 2 sensors baro is plumbed in with EGR vent and used to help PCM determine EGR valve position.


Boost numbers you are seeing are normal for non reflash and non boost fooler electronic or mechanical, electronic boost foolers falsify output of MAP sensor to PCM so it does not know you are making more boost and clip it per stock program, mechanical over-rides; (Turbo Master) disable vac controlled WG with a mechanical spring.


Problem with mechanical is that it may set a code and PCM may clip fuel to control a overboost or high IAT, electronic fooler will clip on high IAT but less so if driving by gauges. IC or WMI, & PCM reflash is only true cure for all, PCM addresses boost-timing-shiftying-fuel curves reset to allow for other than "normal" conditions a stock PCM expects. IC?WMI fixes high IAT Max boost non IC/WMI 10 psi sustained, above that IAT gets high and detrimental.

Cool where in spain did you go. Vacation or work? I spent 60 days in southern spain (Moron) last year my self.


I will go look again at my engine for sensor's


OH BTW Welcome Back





Edited by: bowtie

Bow,


the Baro looks like a MAP on the firwall by the hydraboost. You should have it because you're OBDI.

I'm not 100% positive here but i think i can tap the boss on the exhaust manifold in the truck, looks like there's room with the turbo out of the way, can i fire it up without the turbo to clean out the cuttings? I still may opt for the turbo turn down, decide that from responses here.


So your saying a 10K resistor on the MAP will do the trick. I'm kinda like TDG, the more knobs and dials the better for me and i can adjust it down if i'm setting codes. Will the 10k pot. setup TDG just installed work for me also? Can one go to 15K or more adjustable? I think my optic bump is just slightly too far also, may have to tweak that back a little.

Northern coast, shipyard in El Ferrol; work, I never leave the US for vacation too much fun to be had here.


I was doing engine testing & sea trial testing on a gas turbine powered ship soon to be in service with the Spanish navy.

Install pics.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/4E6_Dash.jpg


All wires through that little hole.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/47F_mess.jpg


Whoever said this was easy was mistaken, but it could have been worse.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/pod_complete.jpg


I ran 2 sets of wires to the upper guage hole, their in there. Didn't want to take it out again! Too funny..... I just noticed the Budweiser cases in the background...lol


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/boost_tap.jpg


Boost tap location, didn't over tap, the fitting is flush with the inside of the intake.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/pyro_location.jpg


The boss on the manifold is the lighted area.


Edited by: CanadianRigger

TD, your work sounds fun.


CR, The pot. switch is cool too.


For OBDII L65 the MAP reads the Baro at start-up. If you have your pot. at 1/2 potential or 5K ohms the baro will be set at 5k and then you can still move the switch around for MAP control.same with ful switch or any posttion in between. If you choose to turn it off and restart it would read an unresisted (normal) reading on the baro and MAP till you turned it up again, but till you restart with the pot at a resistance the Baro value will remain.