It seems rediculous to need a $475 puller, a $225 installer plus the $125 flywheel holding tool to swap a seal. I know I need the flywheel tool to pull and install the flywheel bolts to the 120 degrees beyond tight. I replaced the seal when I rebuilt the truck, but now it is leaving a 6" spot while idling to hook up the trailer. Anybody have any insight?

I am referring to the Rear Main engine oil seal on an LB7. Why was this moved?

You can make a flywheel holder very easy. A strip of steel with a hole in it, and a bolt.

Most seal installers can be replaced by using care with a block of wood and a mallet, and going around evenly.

Pulling a seal can be done many ways, some of them ugly. Goal is to not scratch the crank or the seal bore. You can trash the seal though. Sometimes I've had to drill a small hole in a seal face, thread a screw in, and pry outward.

I'm not sure why this got moved, but I'll move it back.;)

Now lets talk seals. The Dmax uses a two piece seal. There is an ultra thin metal piece that presses onto the crank and provides the seal with a brand new surface every time you replace it. I for one did not see a good way to install it without the proper tool, so I now own the proper tool.

Removing it is a different story though. I think you could easily get by without the seal removal tool. Hope this helps!

on the sleeve install put the sleeve in the oven at 300 for 10 min or so use gloves and it will slide right on a cold crank doin it for years

And how do you set the depth then?

a rubber seal in a 300 degree oven? Did I miss something?

a rubber seal in a 300 degree oven? Did I miss something?

sleeve.

So from what I'm reading it sounds like the Duramax comes factory with a sleeve and seal system? Similiar to what aftermarket companies sell for other engines?

I am referring to the Rear Main engine oil seal on an LB7. Why was this moved?
Go pay someone $200-250.00 to change the seal and you just saved yourself the tool cost and the hassle of questioning those with the knowledge and tools to do so. Just a thought.

Mark:beerchug:

I am referring to the Rear Main engine oil seal on an LB7. Why was this moved?
That was me.:o: I was in a rush when I was trying to sqeeze in some moderating time and read it too fast, sorry about that.;)

I would not want to take the seal apart if you didnt have too. You risk ruining it whenputting it back togather and cause it to leak...again.

Thanks guys for all the replies. I installed a new seal in the new rear engine cover when I rebuilt the truck. The seal I was given by the stealer was a one piece unit. I drove it in carefully (off the truck,) but it looks like I damaged it or was given the wrong part because it is leaking at 16k miles. They sold me the wrong seal for the front shaft of the transmission. I tend to believe Eric that it is a one piece seal because I am sure he has changed a couple of them.

Good luck on installing a front or rear main seal without the proper tools.

Here's mine in action.
http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30430&d=1166148218

Do not separate the wear ring from the seal, they must go in together, just like the main seals on many other diesel engines. I know I have over 2K in CAT seal installers alone. Beg borrow buy or steal the right tool, or do it again and again... Your choice.

My 2 cents

Thanks guys. I think I will follow McRat's advice and build a flywheel holder. From the look of Rick's installer, it needs to push in straight and to an exact depth. It looks like something I could easily machine with the CNC mill at work if I had a few measurements. If I can't get the measurements, I will purchase the tool from Kent-Moore. I hate wasting money on overpriced tools (like the $75 injector puller) that you don't need. I don't enjoy doing the same job over and there are very few people I trust to work on my truck. I want to make sure this seal doesn't leak again.

Thanks guys. I think I will follow McRat's advice and build a flywheel holder. From the look of Rick's installer, it needs to push in straight and to an exact depth. It looks like something I could easily machine with the CNC mill at work if I had a few measurements. If I can't get the measurements, I will purchase the tool from Kent-Moore. I hate wasting money on overpriced tools (like the $75 injector puller) that you don't need. I don't enjoy doing the same job over and there are very few people I trust to work on my truck. I want to make sure this seal doesn't leak again.

Personally, I would rather do it myself. If I have to purchase one tool to get it done correct, it may still work out cheaper than paying for someone to do it.

Ball park, how much to do the rear seal? Or how many hours?

Thanks guys. I think I will follow McRat's advice and build a flywheel holder. From the look of Rick's installer, it needs to push in straight and to an exact depth. It looks like something I could easily machine with the CNC mill at work if I had a few measurements. If I can't get the measurements, I will purchase the tool from Kent-Moore. I hate wasting money on overpriced tools (like the $75 injector puller) that you don't need. I don't enjoy doing the same job over and there are very few people I trust to work on my truck. I want to make sure this seal doesn't leak again.
What version Autocad can you read?

I have Solidworks (?) and MasterCam 10 at work. I will check tomorrow to see which versions they will convert.

I have Solidworks 2006. I know it will convert up to Autocad 2004 and may convert newer versions.

PM me your email. I'm working with Acad 2000 so you should be good.

How much would you charge to make extra ones?

Rick, PM sent.

As for building extras, I don't know if it would be worth it. There are rules about selling things without being a vendor. I would not be building the parts in my own shop, so I could run into problems at work. I might build 2 so that mine is free :cool: but that is about all I would want to do right now.