Aloha,


I Just got a used 95 C3500 dually with a 6.5 and L80E trans. I got it from Ebay bought it sight unseen with only 1 (purposely) underexposed picture and had it trailered and then shipped to Hawaii. There was a lot about this truck that the seller did not disclose, but thats a whole different topic and I am trying to make the best of a bad situation. I love Chevy diesels but they are almost impossible to find here.


Anyway, I drove the truck home from the pier and it ran fine for about 30 minutes. The next day I took it to get a safety check and registration after 1 stop and 10 minutes driving it just cut out, no miss or stumble. Towed it home and it started 45 minutes later. I changed the fuel filter and checked lift pump, works ok. The following day same thing, morning started and ran fine, 5 minutes and 1 stop later, dead. Day 4, tried starting in the morning, ran fine at idle for about 5 minutes, died, but started again, ran for 1 minute then dies and no start. Currently the truck starts when cold, runs for a few minutes then dies. I let it rest for 30+ minutes it will start and run for a minute or two then dies and the cycle continues.


I have tried jumping the lift pump it works and the fuel filter is new. I tried starting the truck with the jumper on and still no start. I have bled the filter and the valve, no air present and fuel is under pressure. If anyone can help identify or help me diagnose the problem it would be greatly appreciated. You guys at this site really know your stuff and I appreciate your time especially because it is very difficult to find anyone on this island who has much experience with the Chevrolet diesel.


Thank you and Aloha, Robert

PMD/FSD (fuel solenoid driver) is always a culprit. the blackbox on the side of the IP.


Order one for the 95. Heath diesel or Kennedy diesel will sell you one with an extension cable so you can mount it infront of the engine out of the heat. It costs about $250 or more for the Driver


4L80E- 4 speed linear 80K (rating) electronicEdited by: quantum mechanic

Can someone tell me the procedure to change the PMD/FSD as I have never done it before. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and would appreciate any help to make this job easier and faster. I dont want to do any unneccessary work if I dont have to. Also where is the best place online to get one. We have Checkers, Carquest, and NAPA here but they are usually pretty pricey. Hey I'm new and appreciate all your help. Also before I start ripping into my truck I would like to know if TDG or any of the other knowledgable diesel techs out there could drop a line to help diagnose my symptoms as possibly being PMD/FSD or IP related.


Thanks again for all the help. Aloha Robert

Find someone with a scanner and hook it up to your truck. Hook the scanner up and run the truck until it dies, While cranking no-start watch the Closure Time, if it reads 0.00 then you need a PMD. If you get a CT within 1.5-1.9 then your driver is ok, watch your Cam Pulse for errors. Most likely cause is the Driver, usually the call sign for a bad PMD is stalling or no-start and no codes present and no problems with fuel supply, so since you say you've already eliminated possible supply pump problems, I'd say you need a new driver.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

www.heathdiesel.com (http://www.heathdiesel.com) www.kennedydiesel.com (http://www.kennedydiesel.com)


buy or make my own extension and FSD cooler and mount the driver off the pump (infront of the engine). easiest replacement.Edited by: quantum mechanic

Mahalo Bob,


PMD is a high fail item on this truck; from the symptoms you describe appears to be classic PMD/FSD fault, several here say mounting on pump is only location, many as well as myself prefer off pump mounting they do seem to last longer off pump than on, if anything much easier to change off the pump location, I'd recommend you have one as a spare especially since you are so far away from ready part support.


I just bought my 2nd one 1st lasted on IP 37K warranty by dealer, 2nd on cooler lasted to about 88K +/- several mi look for a post point to ponder for details, I have just installed the Heath remote FSD, worth the money IMO backed by a 3yr warranty no others list, Bill says since his solution came out about 10 yr ago only 3 returns. I'll run the Heath and also run similar tests in my points to ponder post, & post the results when I get back to the US.

I went to Checker auto parts, nobody had any idea what a PMD was, ditto for NAPA. I borrowed a code reader, AutoXray EZ-Link advanced code reader, it did not recognize my vehicle. I will just go ahead and buy a PMD/FSD online and hope thats my problem.


The problem seems to be getting worse, it runs only for 1-2 minutes then dies, restarts then runs for 10-15 seconds, then no start until it rests for awhile. Can I leave my old PMD on the vehicle and buy a new one and relocate it that way I wont have to remove the old one which looks time consuming. In Hawaii we have a lot of humidity and salt in the air, so I dont want to mount the PMD out in front. I saw a relocation kit from Polarflo which mounts on the holes from the old turbo diesel cover. Thanks QM for the Heath Diesel web address, I think I will order from them. What is a Max-E-Tork E-prom version 2.0? Is it the same as a PMD and if so I Might as well upgrade and increase hp If I gotta change anyway.


Hey TD Could you LMK part # for the Heath PMD/FSD with the 3 year warranty and Thanks to TDG for the info. You guys really know your stuff when it comes to 6.5 Diesels.


Aloha and Mahalo, Robert

A GM parts dealer will have the PMD/FSD local.


The maxEtork is the eprom reflash, not the FSD.


You do not have to remove the old one but don't mount it on the engine. In front of the engine has airflow while the engine's running and will keep it cool when it's off. On the engine is worse than on the pump. Humidity shouldn't be a factor, FSD is a sealed unit.


Robert, do you try powering the lift pump when it won't start to see if it will pressure up and start?

Affirmative QM I jumped the relay and still no start. I will try it again tomorrow just to be sure.


Thank you all for the help

Hey guys,


I am wondering about what resistor # I need for a new PMD/FSD, Kennedy recommends #5, Heath #30898, SSdiesel says #9. Who is right. This truck is basically stock although I would like to run whatever resistor would give the most zip, if it makes a difference in performance.

The correct resistor is the one on your PMD now. The pump was bench calibrated to that resistor. It is almost impossible to see or remove the resistor without removing the driver.

I have 'some' resistor on mine which came with the replacement, and it doesn't seem to make any difference. The wiring to the remote location of the PMD will add some resistance, too --- it didn't make any difference on mine, either.

Maybe I'm just lucky, but if you mount the PMD remotely and have several resistors at hand, try one and see if it works. If it works, let it be the way it is.

The symptoms you describe very much sound like the ones I had when the PMD failed, so replacing the PMD after the checking you've done seems a good idea.

Mine set a code, P1216 afair.
Edited by: 0lee

Since your truck is a total unknown, you might spend some time going thru the various connections in the engine bay - battery terminals. grounds, the many connectors in the PCM-to-engine harness.


Look for corrosion, oxidation, broken or pinched wires, etc.


Trucks from snowy winters need more attention than most, but at 10years, a good preventive maintenance inspection is due on any truck.

TDG,





Have you been working with these pumps long enough to remember their initial release in 1994 and the authorization of Stanadyne shops to do the warranty work?





Just curious if you remember when NOBODY including Stanadyne knew what parts were failing, and wouldn't let you change ANYTHING unless proven bad???

Yeah, DS4 Warranty was a Godsend for us fuel shops, it literally paid for our new building! Stanadyne wanted all warranty pumps tested before they were to be repaired, and still do. Biggest problem we had early on was we got a LOT of faulty electronics right out of the box. Yeah I think everyone was pretty much overwhelmed by the amount of warranty claims early on.

Ignition switches can oxidize and stall you too.

GMCTD made a good point, this vehicle is completely new to you and I'm sure you've already discovered some of the unmentioned flaws it had before you bought it. A good thorough inspection is the best place to start, batteries/teminals, fuse box, glow plugs, fluid levels and signs of contamination things like that, give her a good once over, hook a scantool up to it and then see what problems there really are. Pull the fuel filter back out and look in the bottom for trash rust or whatever, get an empty pop bottle and run a little from the fuel bleed into it and make sure its clean and clear. Get some good fuel additive (Stanadyne or Racor) and fill it up if everything looks OK.

Yeah, DS4 Warranty was a Godsend for us fuel shops, it literally paid for our new building! Stanadyne wanted all warranty pumps tested before they were to be repaired, and still do. Biggest problem we had early on was we got a LOT of faulty electronics right out of the box. Yeah I think everyone was pretty much overwhelmed by the amount of warranty claims early on.





I find it odd that someone would have known the problem back in 1994 when even Stanadybne and their svc centers didn't know what was happening, AND tamper with an electronic injection system potentially voiding warranty. Then when we finally figure out what is failing, Beta releases their FSD cooler and we hear: "well I fixed mine by relocating it back in 1994..."http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

Bill Heath was doing interesting things, fast things, with Diesels long before most people on any of these forums, John.


And that includes you.


'Course we all know Gale Banks engineered the first factory-offered turbo option for the 6.2. He and Lingenfelter were doing fast things with the Corvette and Camaro, and the Firebird, also.


And it wasn't difficult for anyone to look at that module on the inj pump down in center front of the engine and wonder how it could survive.


(And, on the gasoline-fueled vehicles, where the PCM was and is also located in the engine bay)


Even though GM had encountered no problems with the electronic module in the HEI distributor, front center in Chev, Pontiac, Olds and Buick, rear center in Chev, Pontiac, Buick, Olds.


Which is also a high-current coil driver and associated electronics.


And much later, when you came on the scene and started trying to get up to speed, you also commented on GM and Stanadyne obvious refusal to relocate the module.


And, much later, on the obvious quality control issues causing early failures of replacement modules.


Thing of it is, John, Bill does not post on any of these forums, and as a matter of my honest opinion, it is not very honorable to be casting aspersions on someone who will not be present to defend his position.


The stuff you sell works, as does his - only thing he'll say is the DSG gearset is not necessary, and I agree.


A new timing set will restore lost power, whether chain or gear - and I think a hundred thou miles is probably time for a new front seal, and the chainset, anyway.


I waited until after they had sent Ole Steak Sauce on his socially-challenged way before I signed on here, because these forums are meant to expose the prevalent BS, myth, and total mis-information that people encounter when they move to a Diesel.


Very unprofessional where one vendor makes snide or improper remarks about another, present or not.


Edited by: gmctd

I just wanted to take the time to thank the people who, out of the pure goodness of their hearts have posted purely to help a fellow diesel owner in his time of need. I especially want to thank QM, TDG, TD, gmctd and Olee. I am new to diesels and this forum and your help has been invaluable. It seems some have issues and use this thread for other reasons (not related to helping a newb), but you all have been very generous sharing your knowledge. Monday I will try to secure a pmd and will keep you all posted. Oh yeah, to hatv I will check my voltmeter in the truck as I dont have a voltmeter handy, and let you know.


Aloha and Mahalo, Robert

Bill Heath was doing interesting things, fast things, with Diesels long before most people on any of these forums, John.


And that includes you.


And it wasn't difficult for anyone to look at that module on the inj pump down in center front of the engine and wonder how it could survive.


Which is also a high-current coil driver and associated electronics.


And much later, when you came on the scene and started trying to get up to speed, you also commented on GM and Stanadyne obvious refusal to relocate the module.


And, much later, on the obvious quality control issues causing early failures of replacement modules.


Thing of it is, John, Bill does not post on any of these forums, and as a matter of my honest opinion, it is not very honorable to be casting aspersions on someone who will not be present to defend his position.


The stuff you sell works, as does his - only thing he'll say is the DSG gearset is not necessary, and I agree.


A new timing set will restore lost power, whether chain or gear - and I think a hundred thou miles is probably time for a new front seal, and the chainset, anyway.


I waited until after they had sent Ole Steak Sauce on his socially-challenged way before I signed on here, because these forums are meant to expose the prevalent BS, myth, and total mis-information that people encounter when they move to a Diesel.


Very unprofessional where one vendor makes snide or improper remarks about another, present or not.





Hum Sounds like something bad abrewing again out there in diesel land. sense most of this post was way over my head, I've seen lots people think that their way to make power is best, Can we at least agree that we disagree and not air our old dirty laundry again. I personally have looked at both bill's idea's and kennedy's idea, plus a few other too, in the area of cooling and will most likely be using a combo approach cause thats where my 25 years of playing with everything from cars to airplanes tend to lead me too. As such I will most likely do the same for future mods and upgrades too. I don't believe I saw where John said anything toward bill or visa versa but then I don't know who "beta" is either

I just wanted to take the time to thank the people who, out of the pure goodness of their hearts have posted purely to help a fellow diesel owner in his time of need. I especially want to thank QM, TDG, TD, gmctd and Olee. I am new to diesels and this forum and your help has been invaluable. It seems some have issues and use this thread for other reasons (not related to helping a newb), but you all have been very generous sharing your knowledge. Monday I will try to secure a pmd and will keep you all posted.


Aloha and Mahalo, Robert





IMHO THIS IS WHAT THIS FORUM IS/SHOULD BE ALL ABOUT. Nothing else period.

Bowtie....


Well said..... Veddy veddy good... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Found a PMD on Ebay, should be here in 3 days. Spoke to Tim and he seemed knowledgable and has good feedback, ordered a #9 resistor (more power?). I think I will do what QM recommends and make a heat sink relocation and extend the PMD wires and leave the old one on the IP. My kids have some old blown car audio amplifiers around(too much bumpin Bass) and they look like good heat sink material.

Okay. I got a new pmd/fsd. I have been waiting for my old one to cutout so I can plug in the new one, to be sure my pmd/fsd is really bad. The problem is the truck has not died on me yet (I bled the filter and line) and I dont want to drive it very far until I resolve the problem.


The lift pump works when I jump the fuse box, but not while the truck is running or cranking. Could this cause my truck to stall and imitate the symptoms of a bad pmd/fsd? Also which specific wires on the pump and fusebox would I need to jump to make the pump work off the ignition key.


Aloha, and Thanks for all the help

The OPS is in the pump valley right infront of the fuel filter. Take the grey wie from the connector and splice an Ign. wire to it. Then your LP will run with the key on. It will stall it and make it buck at high load.

Okay, I thought I had the problem solved because my truck has not stalled for a while. Today I drove to Lowes about 20 miles, got there fine but the truck would not start when I was ready to go. Plugged in my new FSD and still no start ( I know the fsd works because I plugged it in previously when the truck was running). I waited about 1 hour and it still would not start. Had it towed home and will see if it will start tomorrow. Back to square 1 but at least I know(?) its not the fsd/pmd.

Did you go thru the wiring, as suggested?


More than a few have thrown cubic money at a truck, only to discover bad wiring in the engine compartment.


Ignition switch is also an occasional culprit - dirty\burned contacts supply low voltage to pump, driver fires solenoid, but not enough current for full functionality.

Did it turn over and not start? did it almost start? was there fuel smoke coming out when you cranked it?


Did you try tightening the battery connectors? The lead on the starter solenoid?


I would look at the fuel supply. Did you try bleeding/pressuring up the fuel system while it was not starting?

Today I threw in 2 good batteries and she started right up.


Let me give the history of this truck as I know it. I bought it from Ebay from a guy named Al S. in Bisbee AZ. He told me the engine was completely overhauled (he said he was a mechanic). It has decent power although the turbo is old and has a jury rigged spring and the IP and PMD were definitely not replaced or rebuilt. There is a sound like an exhaust leak, though not loud it is constant (turbo?). The wires look like they were yanked when they pulled the engine as some of the harness clips are broken and some wires look like they were not run or reattached in the correct location (too close to exhaust manifolds and rubbing engine). It looks like there used to be an electronic trailer brake and there is an orange 10ga and blue 12ga wire that used to be somehow connected to a relay looking device that says shortstop on it. The two wires are currently not connected to anything. Does anyone knows where they are supposed to go? These wires look like the came from the original harness and probably should go somewhere.


Now for the problem. Truck dies occasionally and does not restart, especially when hot. Engine cranks but no fire or smoke. After it cools down it usually starts and runs. Two times it died on the road the last time after a 30 min. drive. The last time it died it did not want to start after 1 hour, so I had it towed. It started right up two days later.


What I,ve done so far. The lift pump runs off the ignition, and the last time it died there was pressure to the IP and filters are OK. I tried using a code reader from Checkers and it did not recognize my truck. I bought a new FSD and plugged it in when the truck was running and it works. When the truck died I plugged in the new FSD and it still would not start.


Where I need help. I saw elsewhere on this forum about jumping the diagnostic port and reading codes. Is that possible on my truck and how is it done? Is there a way to make the code reader work on my truck? Also the ignition switch contacts, how do I access and test or replace? Wire harness and connectors, other than visually inspecting them and pushing them together, how can I check them? My other trucks run at about 14 volts (dash gauge) this truck runs at about 12+ I think the Alternator is not putting out as much as it should but that shouldn't make the truck die should it?


Thanks everyone for all the help, even with all the problems I am having I would still rather push a Chevy than, well you know the rest. I only wish there was someone out here who has experience with this engine.


Aloha, Robert

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/quantummechanic/2004-10-08_141853_Aldl.jpg


This is the ALDL for OBDI. If you jump a to b turn the key on and SES light will flash two numbers per code. It will repeat them till you clear it. To clear it you psh in the APP for 30 sec while jumping a to b, ignition on.


The ignition switch is on top the steering colum under the dash. It works off a linkage from the key lock.


A worn head and rotor on the IP will cause hard starts hot, but this is rare on DS-4 pumps. That s something else will usually fail first.

I thought this truck was a 97 with OBDII?


You have a stalling problem, you have already ruled out PMD, but you have a known fuel supply problem? this is a really really easy problem to work around and IMHO improve over the factory setup.


Bow, I'm borrowing and cropping your pic, hope you dont' mind...


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/TexasDieselGuy/2004-10-08_173749_fuse_panel.jpg


now, supply pump will run with the key ON, can't beat it.

Thanks QM for the info. I have 1 question, what is the APP that I need to push in for 30 seconds while jumping A to B with ign on?


Also I tried to get to the ignition switch and guess what happened. I took off the cover pulled the wheel and tried to open up the little black plastic box with the wires attached. Every time I pried the clips and tried to open the box, the engine would turn over. So I disconnected the batteries and pried open the cover to check the contacts. The box destructed, pieces everywhere, little springs, contacts a little plastic cam. Several contact points showed some black and signs of pitting, kinda like points back in the day. Anyway, I called the local dealer and that little plastic box with the wires attached retails for $248.00.


I have no choice now that I destroyed the old one and theres no way I can reassemble it and be confident that it will work properly. Does anyone know where I can purchase that piece for a more reasonable price, please post it so I can follow up. If I change it, at least I can remove the ignition switch along with the PMD/FSD as a possible cause.


Aloha, and many thanks, Robert

APP= accelerator pedal position, these are "fly by wire" IPs, the APP module is at end of the go pedal, telss the PMD to make more fuel go to the engine, not a mechanical throttle cable

your ignition switch should be under the dash, on top of the steering column shaft with a rod running up toward the steering wheel. It sound lke maybe you took the turn signal (combination) switch apart. thats the one that cost 250.00 bucks. The gnition switch should only cost 50.00 or less i think

Bow, I'm borrowing and cropping your pic, hope you dont' mind...





nope I be honored to have helped someone else out. LOL http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

Robert,


I did the same thing first time. I didn't understand my service manual's instructions. On a '94, It is under the dash on top of the colum and is exposed when you remove the part of the dash that covers it.


Are you saying the Ignition switch is in the wheel on a '95?


Get the part number from GM and look it up on www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com) Edited by: quantum mechanic

Try to get the part number from the dealer for that little black box you took apart - technical term is IGNITION SWITCH - and check out the prices at gmpartsdirect.com.


Dealer cost + 20% shipping.......


Some folks have had some success at cleaning the contacts, relubing the assy, and re-assembling it, but most just replace it.Edited by: gmctd

I believe he took the combination switch apart not the ignition switch

Okay, Carquest has an ignition switch assembly for $179 in stock tomorrow @ 12:00. I will change the switch and commence the obd1 diagnostic.


Just to confirm. I will run a jumper from A to B in the connector. Then I will turn on the key and count the flashes of the SES light. Counting two number codes and noting them. After noting codes I will press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for 30 seconds to clear the obd1. During which time I have not turned the key off since starting the process. If I am doing anything wrong please let me know.


Just to clarify the truck in question is a 95 C3500 Automatic drw, tilt wheel.


QM the truck has a dbl cut key and the steering column is a little different from a 94. Thanks again for all the help and I will keep you posted

Hey Hawaii,
What island you on bro?
If it's Oahu, there is a little napa back by hawaii offroad in aiea(sp) behind the stadium.
There is a guy who works there... I forget his name.
He has a really unique goatee and drives an old nova.
Talk to him about whatever you need.
He'll hook you up, give you da' kine for da' kama'ina.
He's pretty cool about giving dicounts.
I wish I could remember his name.
Just ask if he remembers mike, bryce, billy, or sean.
He'll do you right.
Otherwise you can go to checkers by sack'n'save and ask for eric.
I know some other spots if you need anything else.
I lived there for a few years. Edited by: tahoe2dr

Robert,


That should work for checking codes. Waiting to hear the DTC lottery

Okay new ignition switch, done! I got codes of 49, 81, 82, 83. If anybody knows what these codes mean I'd appreciate the help.


Hey T2, Yeah I'm on Oahu, but on the Windward side, so Aiea is kinda far for me to drive, but Mahalo for the hookup. So you gonna be freezing your okole pretty soon yeah, those mainland winters can be pretty rough. I see you got a thread going on your Blazer, almost sounds like my truck, hope you get it fixed.


Aloha, Robert

49- service throttle soon curcuit fault.


81- 2nd to 3rd shift solenoid curcuit.


82- 1st to 2nd shift solenoid curcuit.


no 83

DTC 83 - TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit.


So thats 3 tranny solenoids and the STS light. Not sounding good for the ol' 4L80E. Have you checked fluid level? Make sure its still bright red, if its dark and smells burnt your clutch packs are burnt out and you will need a rebuild. Might be a good idea to have it flushed and filter changed, most tranny shops will do this for ~$150 and be able to tell you what kind of shape it's in internally. STS is probably the lamp burnt out or wiring to it.

Is it possible for a tranny curcuit to fault and stall this truck? STS curcuit?

STS circuit is low low amps, just turns on a single bulb, short would just blow a fuse...which is a good place to start now that I think of it, need to go through all the fuses on this truck, hopefully you will find atleast one burnt out.

So the codes that come up don't tell me what is causing the truck to stall. I may have a problem with my transmission and a bulb or bulb circuit, which I can deal with after I get my truck running reliably. I guess I will keep driving it till it stalls again, then what? Hopefully it was the ignition and problem solved.


Back to my other question wiring harness below master cylinder has 2 wires cut and hanging loose not connected to anything. They are from the factory harness 1 orange 10 ga and 1 blue 12 ga. Everything seems to work ok, but any help here is appreciated.


many thanks for all the help

Drove around for about 45 minutes today made 1 stop on the way home truck ran fine, let it sit for 45 minutes and now, will not start. checked for codes 49, 81, 82, 83 same as before. Checked cables all good, new ignition switch installed, plugged in new FSD still no start. Fuel tank is full, lift pump is working, filter and petcock bled, fuel cap says diesel fuel only. Now What? I don't know what else to do.


Is there another computer module somewhere? Seems all that is left is IP or electrical/computer other than fsd/pmd.

is the truck ONLY hard to start hot, and never cold? you might have an IP problem.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

It has always started when cold, and runs fine till I turn it off. When I first got it it used to stall when running then not restart until cool. Since I jumped the LP it has not cutout while running but after sitting for more than 10 or 15 minutes after a long 30-45 min run it will not start. If it is hot and I let it sit for a short period less than 15 minutes it usually will start (like a short stop on the way home), but this is not always consistent. I have not run this truck very often because of the problem, but this is what I have observed so far.

Replace the injection pump.

O.T. > Quantum you have exceeded your 100 message storage capacity in your in box. How about deleting a few so I can mail you?

Bob,


How many miles on that ve-hicle, only other module that would cause cut out is PCM, but if that were culprit I suspect more problems than you are having, looking like you have maybe bad IP, but before condemning it you have checked all wiring as suggested earlier??? for an intermittent short.


On the new PMD did you install the resistor, and if you do wind up swapping IP keep the new PMD, you will probably need it for glove box spare.Edited by: Turbine Doc

Mileage is 137k. I just tried starting the truck after sitting for 3+ hours, it started right up and ran fine. When the truck runs, it runs fine, when it cuts out, no sputter or miss. If it starts, it starts right up, no hard or long start. If it doesn't start it just cranks, no smoke or sputter.


What are the indications for a bad PCM?, IP?


When you recommend check wiring, how do I do that? I have tried visuall inspection and manually checking connectors to make sure there is a solid connection. What else should I do?

Sounds to me like your due for an IP. Problems you describe sound like a badly worn transfer pump and/or H&R. Both of these subassemblies are tested the most during hot crank, but will often be functional when fuel viscosity and speed are higher.

Some have throw a gallon or two of water on a hot pump to get it to restart. I guess it cools it down enough to bring the cranking pressue up.

cools the head to make it fit tighter to the rotor, works on the old DBs, but DS pump have a lot less head exposed. If he's not getting smoke he's not getting fuel and if works cold not hot its a leakage problem internal to the pump and it needs to be rebuilt.

When my F sol was still n the process of going out, I had hard starts. I found that dumping water on the pump was sometimes the ticket to restarting without a jumpstart.

True as well, all possible scenarios point to the IP being the problem.

ok If he used the water trick and it started would that be a way to for sure point to the IP ?

If pouring water on the IP makes it work then there must be something wrong with it.


DS4 pumps very rarely wear out the H&R, usually fuel contamination that would endanger the head will knock something else out first, like the optic sensor. I've never heard of anyone using water to cool the fuel solenoid before, but I've never used nor prescribed the cold water method to anyone for any pump.

Hey, I read on another thread that I could use starting fluid to start the truck. Is this OK and will I damage anything? The truck seems to run when its hot, just can't start hot. I wanna try some long runs, but dont wanna go broke towing it home all the time. If the truck starts with starting fluid when hot, then wouldn't that be a definite indication of a bad IP?

Starter fluid, even when used cautiously can certainly cause sever engine damage, like bent connecting rods, cracked pistons etc...


If you absolutely HAVE TO start the vehicle and Quick-Start is the only way, be sure to unplug or other wise disable the glowplug relay to keep them from getting hot and preigniting the fluid.


Hard Start Hot is an IP problem for sure, other pieces will factor, but a worn out set of injectors, weak lift pump, low compression or something along those lines would all cause the problem cold as much, or more so, as hot.

Hawaii builder did you ever get your hot starting issues ironed out?