I recently completed comparative testing for an Amsoil EaO oil filter on my Toyota Sequoia (and one is in process for my Duramax) and from a lube engineer's perspective, it is simply the finest oil filter currently on the market. Period... My used engine oil is actually cleaner than the new Mobil 1 oil I put IN the engine..
Each filter had 1,500 miles on. The OEM filter was from a new oil change with Mobil 1 R 0W-30, while the Amsoil EaO filter was a filter change only with no make up oil added. Vehicle has 160,000 miles on the engine. Mobil 1 since new, of course....

My "before and after" are as follows:

OEM oil filter Amsoil EaO 57
ISO18/17/14 ISO 14/13/11
>4 microns = 1817 128 particles per ml
>6 microns = 990 70
>14 microns = 168 12
>25 microns = 34 2
>50 microns = 3 0
>100 microns = 0 0

As a lube engineer, when I can reduce an ISO grade by one number I am ecstatic. One number cuts abrasive components in half.. Four numbers, well, I am in filter nirvana....
This represents a 93%+ reduction in abrasive particles and will definitely provide long term wear reductions and increased component life...

George Morrison, STLE CLS
(NOTE: I am not nor have I ever been an Amsoil dealer: have no association: quite the contrary, actually)

Thanks for posting! Your info is much appreciated! :cool:

Interesting......may have to look at one of these dudes....

Great to hear George, I have been running that filter on my dmax now for the last 3 oil changes and I just sent you guys a sample of my oil with that filter...let's see how it turns out.

Just changed mine over to the Amsoil filter, but I too used Amsoil oil. Not supposed to have to change it for 25,000 miles. Time and a few lab tests will tell ...... Great stuff!! :D

Good to here, just switched to Amsoil and the filter, going to due the 20 k intervals for know

It would seem to be paradoxical in that this filter has such excellent ultra fine filtration capabilities yet should provide a much reduced flow resistance vs. paper or a paper/glass blend. Additionally, a full microglass element (EaO) can hold as much as 4 times the dirt as cellulose, thus should be able to last considerably longer than a comparably sized paper element. i.e. your basic win/win. Of course the price of the filter is premium but for a finatic of oil cleanliness and simplicity, the EaO certainly delivers...
I will post the Duramax results as soon as they are completed which, unfortunately, will be another month or so.. I would anticipate the same level of efficiency increase, however.. The test for me was to verify:
1: that the media used in the EaO is a full microglass, which it is.
2. that the construction of the materials used in the filter enable the filter to perform to capability. And it does......
Bingo...

George Morrison, STLE CLS
(NOT an Amsoil dealer, no affiliation with Amsoil: quite the contrary)

Nice to hear from you again, George.
It's been a while.

George, I believe the technology used in the oil filter is the same as the EaA Amsoil air filter. This is the "nanofiber" technology. I got a hold of the air filter "Amsoil, but the media is made by Donaldson" and looked at a piece of it under my microscope. It is a cellulose fiber coated in "nanofibers". The contrast under microscope looked like tree roots covered by dental floss. Amazing to look at. I can also say that I have witnessed the ISO 5011 test on this air filter compared to ACDelco, and the Amsoil was better. I have no affiliation with Amsoil nor do I care to. I attribute the success of this air filter to Donaldson. Donaldson wanted to enter the automotive market with their technology and used Amsoil to do it. Interesting how the Spectacular, Unmatched performance of the Amsoil oiled foam seemed to disappear without any notice!? SPICER

I run the Amsoil bypass system with the EaO filter on it. My oil should last for a good long time. So far, analysis results are great.

There is a guy here locally that has over 200,000 miles on his oil using an Amsoil by-pass system. If you can get by the up front cost of the system it will pay for it's self. With the new primary filters from Donaldson you should get at least 25000 ( done also by a local with lab test that said, "keep using it") he finally changed it anyway. Needed something to do I guess ...... :D

That is the nice part of the EaO filter: achieving a level of oil cleanliness that would be only been achievable with by-pass filtration... Obviously I am not a big fan of by-pass filtration as I have a beautiful 2001 6.5TD sitting outside with a completely trashed engine as a result of a return line from a by-pass oilfilter failing while going down the interstate at 70 mph. The first sign of the failure was the simultaneous beginnings of the engine seizure accompanied by a low oil pressure light... By the time the vehicle got stopped, the engine had completely seized, along with the turbo-charger, etc... Thus my enthusiasm for achieving ultra clean oil without the potential for a catastrophic...

Again, when the used engine oil is cleaner than the oil coming out of the bottle, how much better can it get?
George Morrison, STLE CLS

George......running Mobil 1 how long can you see this filter lasting in a duramax?

Thanks for that information, George, and also good to see you posting again! I'm currently running a set of the EaO filters on my dual remote bypass and will be very interested to see how this DOA comes out - I may just have to spring for a ferrographic after your posting!

ok i've used the M1-303 since it became available, does this surpass even that in build quality?

....
Interesting how the Spectacular, Unmatched performance of the Amsoil oiled foam seemed to disappear without any notice!? SPICER
Spicer,
Yes, that IS interesting!

I used the Amsoil and UNI oiled foam air filters for many years until I saw the results from your air filter study. I immediately switched back to the OEM paper air filter, and now use the Amsoil (Donaldson) Ea filters.

And Obviously I was a Mobil 1 oil filter fan/user as it *was* the best oil filter I had tested until the EaO came along... Yes, the EaO is significantly better than the Mobil 1 in that the Mobil 1 is a microglass/cellulose blend. It is as in a chain link; the weakest link dictates the strength of the chain.. The EaO flows much better, is unaffected by extreme cold (which cellulose is, very much, causing flow restricitons and resultant by-pass opening/dumping to occur), and holds much more dirt than the Mobil 1. (theoretically, as I have no actual documentation for the EaO, just going by experience of glass vs. paper vs. paper glass combos).
So, yes, me with Mobil 1 stamped on my forehead, have to say that the Eao is a much better oil filter in every performance aspect, especially filtration, which is key......
George Morrison, STLE CLS

So, George, what IS the price, and how does one get ahold of this filter?

Does it fit without any modification?

Great post!

I would not install a bypass filter without running wirebraid hose. It is definitely worth the extra expense for the peace of mind. I have run Harvard filters for over 25 years w/o a problem. I have 80K on my Dmax, have never changed the oil, not even the factory oil. I do an oil analysis about every 20K miles, has always looked great.

So, George, what IS the price, and how does one get ahold of this filter?

Does it fit without any modification?

Great post!

These are direct replacement filters, no modifications required. Any Amsoil dealer can supply those for you, or go to Amsoil.com or call 1-800-777-7094.

Retail prices
EA052 Oil Filter = $17.30
Eaa123 Air Filter = $47.45

Spicer,
Yes, that IS interesting!

I used the Amsoil and UNI oiled foam air filters for many years until I saw the results from your air filter study. I immediately switched back to the OEM paper air filter, and now use the Amsoil (Donaldson) Ea filters.

I used two generations of Amsoil oiled foam and a Uni oiled foam for over 90,000 miles with excellent oil analyses indicating very low silicon and wear numbers. They just worked for me, always did. I have been running an Amsoil Ea dry filter for the last 9,000 miles and will expect continued excellent numbers, especially with this news about the efficiency of the oil filters.

Yesterday I Switched to Amsoil 15-40 and EA052 Oil Filter Eaa123 Air Filter

I'll let you know how it goes.

This is pretty big news. I'll be real interested in George's Dmax results especially against a more conventional oil/filter setup. If I were to change to synthetic and the EoS filter and go to say 20k oil changes then that interval would still be considered overkill?

I had mentioned that my used Mobil 1 was actually cleaner than the Mobil 1 I put IN the engine. The results are as follows:

New Mobil 1R 0W-30=========Mobil 1R filtered with Amsoil EaO Filter
ISO 18/14/11================14/13/11
>4 Microns 1510========128 particles per milliiter
>6 microns 106=========70 particles per milliter
>14 microns 15==========12 particles per milliter
>25 microns 4===========2 particles per milliter
>50 microns 2===========0 particles per milliter
>100 microns 1==========0 particles per milliter

Thus my used engine oil is significantly cleaner than the new oil.
In terms of abrasive particles per gallon, new oil would have 5,715,110 abrasive particles >4 microns circulating through the entire system for each gallon of oil flow. The EaO filtered oil would have 484,411 abrasive particles per gallon flowing through the engine.. A significant reduction....
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Obviously I am not a big fan of by-pass filtration as I have a beautiful 2001 6.5TD sitting outside with a completely trashed engine as a result of a return line from a by-pass oilfilter failing while going down the interstate at 70 mph. George Morrison, STLE CLS

I've thought about replacing the hoses on my 5 year old Amsoil oil bypass system, before they blow out and ruin my day.
Maybe it's time.
As long as I'm at it, maybe I should order the Ea123 and retire the couch cushion, that so far has given me real good results.

I had mentioned that my used Mobil 1 was actually cleaner than the Mobil 1 I put IN the engine. The results are as follows:

New Mobil 1R 0W-30=========Mobil 1R filtered with Amsoil EaO Filter
ISO 18/14/11================14/13/11
>4 Microns 1510========128 particles per milliiter
>6 microns 106=========70 particles per milliter
>14 microns 15==========12 particles per milliter
>25 microns 4===========2 particles per milliter
>50 microns 2===========0 particles per milliter
>100 microns 1==========0 particles per milliter

Thus my used engine oil is significantly cleaner than the new oil.
In terms of abrasive particles per gallon, new oil would have 5,715,110 abrasive particles >4 microns circulating through the entire system for each gallon of oil flow. The EaO filtered oil would have 484,411 abrasive particles per gallon flowing through the engine.. A significant reduction....
George Morrison, STLE CLS

George, This does not surprise me. I don't know what the quality control is, but I doubt that most oil manufacturers filter their oil to a fine level prior to bottling. The numbers you are posting are pretty incredible. The EaO is rated at somewhere around 10-15 micron absolute. Much better than the standard 25 or so micron average out there. Your results are reflecting bypass level filtration. My last oil analysis with particle count (Oilguard bypass) was 14/14/10, and 20k miles on the oil (Mobil Delvac). SPICER

This is pretty big news. I'll be real interested in George's Dmax results especially against a more conventional oil/filter setup. If I were to change to synthetic and the EoS filter and go to say 20k oil changes then that interval would still be considered overkill?

On edit... Make that EaO. Brain Lock

do you have a part# for the d-max filter ?

do you have a part# for the d-max filter ? eao52

George, I believe the technology used in the oil filter is the same as the EaA Amsoil air filter. This is the "nanofiber" technology. I got a hold of the air filter "Amsoil, but the media is made by Donaldson" and looked at a piece of it under my microscope. It is a cellulose fiber coated in "nanofibers". The contrast under microscope looked like tree roots covered by dental floss. Amazing to look at. I can also say that I have witnessed the ISO 5011 test on this air filter compared to ACDelco, and the Amsoil was better. I have no affiliation with Amsoil nor do I care to. I attribute the success of this air filter to Donaldson. Donaldson wanted to enter the automotive market with their technology and used Amsoil to do it. Interesting how the Spectacular, Unmatched performance of the Amsoil oiled foam seemed to disappear without any notice!? SPICER

Not to get off topic, but is this the same as the Donaldson air filter that comes stock in the '06?

Not to get off topic, but is this the same as the Donaldson air filter that comes stock in the '06?

I think the stock filter for the '06 is a honeycomb design, am I right? This one is a Donaldson media, but in the honeycomb design. Looks like a great filter.

The one I have is a stock, flat panel design like the AC Delco but uses Donaldson media. The honeycomb is the latest generation in design but my guess is it is the same media as mine.

One adventage of the panel design is that it is reuseable by using a vacuum cleaner on the dirty side and GENTLY cleaning it. I would avoid dragging the vacuum hose over the media. I don't know how strong the nanofibers are. The '06 filter might be hard to clean. Looks like it is designed for greater dirt holding capacity. SPICER

Arlen, all of the Amsoil EaO filters are Donaldson media and in the oil filters, canned by Wix. But, as results indicate, the combination works..
I have experienced industrial filters that had a wonderful microglass element which *should* have provided excellent filtraton, but in the real world, failed miserably due to poorly designed gasket interface. Thus one of the purposes of my 'real world' test on my vehicle was to determine that all of the components of the Eao filter enabled true microglass filtration performance. Which it did...
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Good to know THANKS. I put an Amsoil filter on the last time I changes my oil. That should definetly help my testing some.

Donaldson is in all likelyhood the best filtration company in the world.
remember in Gulf 1 the M1 Abrams tanks were destroying their turbine engines because of the huge amounts of fine sand that was making it past the air inlet filter?
In short order Donaldson devised a new filtration system that practically eliminated the issue.
My niece was an engineer for Donaldson.

Merle

I think the stock filter for the '06 is a honeycomb design, am I right? This one is a Donaldson media, but in the honeycomb design. Looks like a great filter.

The one I have is a stock, flat panel design like the AC Delco but uses Donaldson media. The honeycomb is the latest generation in design but my guess is it is the same media as mine.

One adventage of the panel design is that it is reuseable by using a vacuum cleaner on the dirty side and GENTLY cleaning it. I would avoid dragging the vacuum hose over the media. I don't know how strong the nanofibers are. The '06 filter might be hard to clean. Looks like it is designed for greater dirt holding capacity. SPICER

Yes the '06 air filter is honeycomb and says Donaldson on it. It is a light blue color. It is flat but not a panel it is round and pretty big actually. So I guess this is the same filter.

Arlen, all of the Amsoil EaO filters are Donaldson media and in the oil filters, canned by Wix. But, as results indicate, the combination works..


If Wix is canning the filters for Amsoil, do you know a Wix that will cross for the Amsoil Eabp 90, 100, or 110 filters. I called Wix and the person I spoke with checked their computer and could not find a cross. Doesn't mean they don't make one just the low paid flunkey couldn't find it in the computer.

I have been using AMSOIL 15W-40 and AMSOIL oil filter since 7,500 miles on truck and last 2 oil changes with EAO filters at 7,500 mile change intervals, so right now truck has over 20,000 miles and had oil analysis done on 5,000 miles oil . I was little disappointed but maybe shouldnt be a reason to be alarmed after read the report. It shows oil has elevated copper level but everything else looks good. Also the report recommonds to have filter checked next oil change for visible metal. Should I change oil now or continue for 2,500 miles before change oil?

Elevated copper is pretty normal for the new engines. It is apparently copper that is leaching from the solder joints of the oil cooler, or so I have been told. This will eventually stop and copper levels will return to a normal level. Mine was the same, and I was told not to worry.

If Wix is canning the filters for Amsoil, do you know a Wix that will cross for the Amsoil Eabp 90, 100, or 110 filters. I called Wix and the person I spoke with checked their computer and could not find a cross. Doesn't mean they don't make one just the low paid flunkey couldn't find it in the computer.

Why not just buy it from Amsoil?????

Why not just buy it from Amsoil?????

Wix may be canning the filters, but there would be no Wix product using the Donaldson media. It is the Donaldson media, not the can that makes this filter so good. SPICER

Why not just buy it from Amsoil?????

Because I'd rather not pay for the name. If the SAME filter is availible with someone else's name on it for 1/3 the price of the one with AMSOIL painted on it why would I want to pay more money. That paint does about the same for performance as a big wing and fart pipe on a ricer.

As Arlen has indicated, Wix is canning the filter exclusively for Amsoil. Wix is not marketing the filter. So, the only source for the media is via Amsoil at this point and probably for a good while, for our vehicles. Donaldson does utilize the glass media in their large equipment filters but has no marketing arm for automotive/small truck filter, thus the Donaldson/Amsoil marriage.. And this filter is a true niche. There are just so many of us willing to pay the premium for a full microglass filter. Too many folks are "I have been using Fram oil filters for years, change oil regularly and got 300,000 miles out of my last Chevy/Ford/Dodge. I am never gonna pay $12.00 for an oil filter!". Which probably is the thinking of the majority of small truck owners...
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Thanks George that answered what I was looking for.

Does anyone know if Amsoil makes a air filter for the LBZ ?

Just got the Amsoil EaO 52 oil filter installed on the Duramax this morning..
Our comparative of the OEM oil filter vs. the EaO 52 will be forthcoming in about a month from now.... I would anticipate the same results as with my Toyota Sequoia.. The results will be posted here, of course......
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Does anyone know if Amsoil makes a air filter for the LBZ ?

Do they use a different air filter than the LB7 on a 2003? I use Amsoil airfilter on my 03

I just checked to see if they make an Ea spin on for the Allison, doesn't look like it. I hope it's in the works, that would be nice. Who do we need to pester to get them to make one?

The LBZ uses an entirely different air filter than previous dmaxs.

If you have it handy, what is the Allison spin on number? I think I can cross it to a full microglass element which is being manufactured for the military for their use..
George Morrison, STLE CLS

P/N 29539579 according to a case of Allison filter boxes sitting here at MA.

The Wix number is 57701 for the Allison spin-on

Shoot, that is the only Allison number that does not interchange.... Sorry..
Thank you for posting the filter numbers.... I will pursue, however....
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Nice write up

I just want to say thanks to Gorge, I’m going to be taking an oil sample this Sunday before I change my oil, for a point of reference for my records. I’ve been running the EaO 52 filters for a combined 43,000miles so far I’m on my second one, and I have 47,000 miles on the truck, so I am very interested to see the results. I was going to put my bypass filter on at the end of summer after the nest 20,000 miles, but it the results are good with this sample and the one I send in before I switch, I may just leave it in the box for someone else, and just switch to the new 5W40 oil and keep the EaO filter doing it’s thing.

And thank you for your kind words..

Yes, that is the nice aspect of the Amsoil EaO full flow oil filter. It enables a level of lubricant cleanliness heretofore only achievable via by-pass filtration. From my personal catastrophic experiences with by-pass filtration, needless to say I am a proponent of high performance full flow filtration.
George Morrison, STLE CLS
(NOT an Amsoil dealer, never have been, no association whatever)

How long should one go between oil changes with an Amsoil EaO 52 filter on a dmax?

Excellant thread! And thanks for sharing George.:) With these results I'm definitely going to give the EaO filter a try. The only thing thats hard to understand is why didn't Donaldson establish a joint venture with Wix who is canning their media. I'm sure Wix would have jumped at the opportunity to market a line of high efficiency filters. A third company needing profit would have been eliminated providing more profit for both companies and/or a savings to Wix customers. Never the less a price of $17 for a filter of this quality is cheep insurance. Especially if doing extended drains.

And thank you for your kind words..

Yes, that is the nice aspect of the Amsoil EaO full flow oil filter. It enables a level of lubricant cleanliness heretofore only achievable via by-pass filtration. From my personal catastrophic experiences with by-pass filtration, needless to say I am a proponent of high performance full flow filtration.
George Morrison, STLE CLS
(NOT an Amsoil dealer, never have been, no association whatever)

So just to clear things up a bit....are you saying this filter works so well that there is really no need to consider a by-pass set up.

Great thread by the way...

Re: the need for by-pass filtration.. From my viewpoint, with the performance of the Amsoil EaO filter, it would follow that the filtration advantages of by-pass filtration are moot. My concern with by-pass filtration is the increase in potential component failures (lines fraying, rupturing, connections coming lose, gaskets failing, filter physically damaged by road debris, etc.). Any component failure in a by-pass can result in a catastrophic engine failure. Through my years I have been directly involved in two such failures. One of those failures is sitting outside my office, as I type. It is a 2000 Chevrolet diesel in which the return line fitting came lose from the oil pan while running 70 mph on the freeway. In a matter of minutes very expensive sounds began coming from the engine compartment. One totally trashed diesel engine/turbocharger. Essentially junk. All while using by-pass to EXTEND a less than stellar diesel engine's life; instead significantly shortened it..
The other case of by-pass filtration line failure was even worse...

Thus, if one can keep things simple and yet achieve by-pass level filtration with the EaO filter, it would follow that near filtration perfection has arrived without all the lines, fittings and gaskets to fail...

When one's engine oil is cleaner than the new oil going INTO the engine, which mine was, that is about as good as it gets in my world..
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Well, Geepers, George - if you'd only been runing Slick 50 in that engine, you could have gone another 100 miles with no oil at all!! (Just kidding)

I've had my BMK-17 in operation for almost 120,000 miles. Am I concerned about a failure? No, but I'm certainly aware of the possibility. As a matter of fact, I do carry an AC-Delco pf-2232 filter in my toolbox in addition to extra oil in case I have to pull the adapter and put on a full-flow. Good to know that time is critical on a loss of oil and not to try and limp any low pressure indication - thanks for that.

I've never been so excited to go visit my amsoil dealer.

:thankyou2 George!

This filter is going to kill the Fumoto drain valve sales. :joke:

Thanks George for the fantastic write up. The "fluids" section isn't the same without you!

:thankyou2

i've got a strange feeling that Amsoil filter sales are going to spike really soon

Just ordered a case myself, great write up. Let us know if you find an allison filter.

ads

George, You have said that the oil is cleaner using the Amsoil than it was when it was new. Is this in reference to particle count? I have seen a lot of brand new oil particle counts and they are ALL lousy! I don't think they run it through much more than a K&N air filter before they bottle it. I would expect oil running through a decent oil filter to be cleaner (ISO cleanliness) than new oil. Your numbers are remarkable, but it is funny that not even Amsoil claims it to be a 1 or 3 micron filter. They call it a 10 micron absolute IIRC. I would like to see a few more particle count numbers from this oil filter before I ditch my bypass. If the numbers continue like this, then I will remove the bypass. SPICER

Arlen, you are correct. I was surprised the Mobil 1R was as clean as it was, particle count-wise. Most oils out of the bottle are pretty horrendous, as you have found. The OEM paper element particle count contained more particles than the new Mobil 1R. Thus it was not "cleaner" than the new oil.

I will be posting an interim Duramax EaO soon, so we can take an early look at how the EaO filter is doing vs. the AC oil filter. The suspense is getting to me too as for the EaO performance in the Duramax!

I apologize for my extended absence but I was in a bit of a motorcycle accident late last summer that put me out of comission for a while. (90 mph coming out of a turn at Mid-Ohio race track & transmission locked up: my head, even in helmet, hit the pavement pretty hard, dislodging my brain from the side of skull requiring craneotomy, etc.) Doing just fine with no residuals whatsoever.. Just took some time to recover.. Needless to say, great to be back! This is a wonderful site with such great postings and a source of learning for me.....

George Morrison, STLE CLS

Holy cow, George!! I wondered where you were, but had no idea you'd had such a serious accident. Glad to hear that you have fully recovered and welcome back!

I guess with the new EA bypass filters the oil will be even cleaner.

I apologize for my extended absence but I was in a bit of a motorcycle accident late last summer that put me out of comission for a while. (90 mph coming out of a turn at Mid-Ohio race track & transmission locked up: my head, even in helmet, hit the pavement pretty hard, dislodging my brain from the side of skull requiring craneotomy, etc.) Doing just fine with no residuals whatsoever.. Just took some time to recover.. Needless to say, great to be back! This is a wonderful site with such great postings and a source of learning for me.....

George Morrison, STLE CLS

Ouch!!!!! Maybe your marbles are still rolling around a bit and that is where you are seeing these great numbers! Better have your secretary double check those particle counts! You know I'm joking! Nice to see you again George. Arlen.

will/does the amsoil oil filter make the oil visually clearer. what im trying to explain is, after i change my oil and check it, its a dark color. not the golden color as it was when i poured it in. will the filter keep the oil a golden color?

Great going George. Two thumbs up.

The filter will not keep the oil the original golden color, as there are soot particles in suspension that are smaller than the filter is capable of removing. The bypass systems do not even keep it a nice golden color. What the filter will do is remove the particles once they agglomerate and form larger particles (the ones that do the damage).

George:

I have a question. The only thing I know about oil is that synthetic is superior, and that information is from personal experience. I was suprised to see the elevated number of particulate matter in new oil.

My question is this: I know oil companies put additives in oil for miscellaneous reasons, like detergents, etc.,. Is it possible some of the particles you are seeing in the new oil is from these additives?

This is an awesome thread! I'm gonna change oil when my truck hits 3,000 and definately get that Amsoil oil filter. My question is,- I want to use Amsoil synthetic oil in my new truck. However, most folks say make sure the truck has at least 10,000 miles before you add synthetic oil. From everything I've read on synthectic oil, it's not "SLICKER" than conventional oil, it just doesn't lose it's lubricity as fast or break down. Then if this is true, why can't I add synthectic oil to a motor that isn't fully broke in yet? (1,500 miles)

SBB

I switched to 100% synthetic after the first oil change at 2000 miles and have had absolutely no problems at all. Truck does not use any oil either.

This is an awesome thread! I'm gonna change oil when my truck hits 3,000 and definately get that Amsoil oil filter. My question is,- I want to use Amsoil synthetic oil in my new truck. However, most folks say make sure the truck has at least 10,000 miles before you add synthetic oil. From everything I've read on synthectic oil, it's not "SLICKER" than conventional oil, it just doesn't lose it's lubricity as fast or break down. Then if this is true, why can't I add synthectic oil to a motor that isn't fully broke in yet? (1,500 miles)

SBB

There's some "legacy" knowledge that a diesel requires some breakin time on conventional lubricants to get the piston rings seated. Whether this is still true or not has not been completely settled. Many high performance engines are coming straight off the assembly line with synthetic lubes (Porsche and Corvette), but they aren't diesels, and how much breakin is really necessary - who really knows? Seems to me that it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours of run time or a few hundred miles, if it's required at all.

To bad these filters are on back-order!!

Stove,
How many do you want? ... we have them. (for the d-max)

Even though Mobil-1 says it is syn., it's not a true syn. The base for the oil comes from the ground. (not man made) So it is full of crap. (laymen terms here) Amsoil is totaly man made, does not start out with crud already in it. The filters are great and the oil is too ........ :D

Stove,
How many do you want? ... we have them. (for the d-max)

Even though Mobil-1 says it is syn., it's not a true syn. The base for the oil comes from the ground. (not man made) So it is full of crap. (laymen terms here) Amsoil is totaly man made, does not start out with crud already in it. The filters are great and the oil is too ........ :D

So it comes out of thin air? Come on - everything either comes out of the ground or out the sea. ;)

Stove,
How many do you want? ... we have them. (for the d-max)

Even though Mobil-1 says it is syn., it's not a true syn. The base for the oil comes from the ground. (not man made) So it is full of crap. (laymen terms here) Amsoil is totaly man made, does not start out with crud already in it. The filters are great and the oil is too ........ :D


Funny thing, Tailhunter - Amsoil buys all its synthetic stock from Mobil. The rest of your drivel doesn't even warrant a reply.

Funny thing, Tailhunter - Amsoil buys all its synthetic stock from Mobil. The rest of your drivel doesn't even warrant a reply.

Nuff said.

As I shared, the particle counts for the new Mobil 1 are actually quite good compared with most new motor oils. Oil manufacturers are just not concerned with providing "ultra clean" oil. As long as the consumer does not see chunks and clulnks, they are happy, as is John Q Public. Except for us...... :-)

And no, additives are all sub-micronic and essentially "liquid" state and do not filter out, even down to a 6 micron absolute level.

I changed my Duramax to Delvac 1 synthetic (a Group IV, full, real synthetic base stock, just as Amsoil is a group IV) at 500 miles. A diesel engine is "broken in" after the first trip around the block. One normally would do a couple "quick changes" with a high quality mineral based oil to "flush" out the build and break in dirt/wear metals. Being an oil finatic/conoisseur/make my living with oils/lubes, Delvac 1 synthetic was it..

George Morrison, STLE CLS

I changed my Duramax to Delvac 1 synthetic (a Group IV, full, real synthetic base stock, just as Amsoil is a group IV) at 500 miles. A diesel engine is "broken in" after the first trip around the block. One normally would do a couple "quick changes" with a high quality mineral based oil to "flush" out the build and break in dirt/wear metals. Being an oil finatic/conoisseur/make my living with oils/lubes, Delvac 1 synthetic was it..

George Morrison, STLE CLS


Thanks George, that's exactly what I wanted to know. Since my dealer will be doing the first oil change free, I'll let them put in whatever they use. Then I'll switch to synthetic.

SBB

This conversation has been without brand name-calling and commercial discussion.. Can we please keep it that way? (Mobil 1 not a syn (which it is) and is full of crap (which it is not))
As I indicated, ALL new oils out of the bottle are NOT pristine clean, without contaminants... And I mean all.. Manufacturer's of engine oil are not concerned with absolute cleanliness as the lubricants are generally rather short term in engines and with most full flow oil filters being >30 micron or larger...
Only with the advent of these new Mobil 1, Amsoil Ea series and Pure one filters are we beginning to see ultra-fine full flow filtration available. And used engine oils cleaner than new oil out of the bottle, as example with the Amsoil Eao oil filter.... :-)
George Morrison, STLE CLS

So I got my filter that was backordered, changed the oil out a few days ago.

Since we have lots of smart people in the thread, should I keep my delco filter until my next change, or swap on the new filter now?? I am really thinking I will change them out, but am not sure how much oil I will lose swapping..

This is not meant to be a thread derailer .........

There seem to be a lot of helpful, polite people here and some that, well, I'll leave that one alone.

Sorry for repeating what I heard from a trusted source. I guess I got in over my head. I do not study oil for a living and never stated that was my profession. There have been things that have been stated on this forum that I know are not true and never once have I been rude to anyone. Guess I should not have expected like treatment.

I didn't mean to come off too rude, Tailhunter, but your "trusted source" was obviously an Amsoil advocate and fed you some false information. I am not against Amsoil, I use quite a few of their products and they make some very good lubricants. I think you invited a bit of backlash when you didn't couch your statements as "I was told" and instead eagerly stated them as fact. Live and learn, and since you are such a new member of the forum I hope this hasn't soured your opinion since this IS one of the friendliest and most informative forums of its type that I've ever experienced.

Well, you did and I should have...

Lets get beyond that. I want to know more about the differences between the Mobil-1 and Amsoil. All the tests I have seen puts Ams above Mobil-1. I was told that the Mobil was a highly refined dino and the Ams was a totally man made product free from all impurities. So what is the real scoop? Thanks ....

Thanks George... I was about to buy a case of filters and thought i would check this section. I'm glad i did.

Sorry to hear about your accident. I'd recommend parking the bike and joining me in a hang glider. 30 years of flying and have only broken my nose. (I'm touching wood)

Amsoil and ExxonMobil synthetic engine/drive train/greases are simply the 'creme de la creme' of lubricants. Amsoil has consistently produced high quality synthetic lubricants for many years, which is quite a statement given their relatively small size compared with the "majors". Likewise, Mobil has produced high quality synthetics for a like number of years with all the resources of the world behind them.
That said, differentiating Mobil and Amsoil synthetic products with laboratory testing is really splitting hairs, from my experience. Both product lines are vastly superior in performance compared to other widely available lubricants on the market.

So, yes, one can do a particular laboratory "test" and say that as a result of Amsoil having a higher level of Zinc/Phos additive in a particular product, the Amsoil may reflect a higher result than a comparable Mobil product. Likewise, there may be another lab test that would indicate a laboratory performance advantage for a Mobil 1 synthetic product. However, these are lab tests and the proof of performance is in the real world where both Amsoil and Mobil 1 outperform all other readily available lubricants....

Which is my point. One can argue lab tests until infinity is discussed...
The years of extraordinary performance of both manufacturer's products is what is paramount..

Which leads to point #2. The "real world" testing of the Amsoil EaO oil filter has provided a truly exceptional product and this IS a fact... An unbiased, for real, fact... And Amsoil should be applauded for their work and product.
George Morrison, STLE CLS
(NOT an Amsoil dealer, never have been)

"A diesel engine is "broken in" after the first trip around the block.'
Now that's a bit of a sweeping generalisation don't you think? Try telling that to a diesel engine with Chrome Hardened Liners.

Engine Break In discussions are very similar to 'what oil do you run' chats many different experiences out there. Sure new engine design is requiring less break in time so here is how I would view it with regards to syth changeover. No real harm is going to come from running regular dino for a couple of changes before you go synth and you cover your bases on that how long a break in topic.

Thank you George for the great info and heads up, I have just ordered one of their Bypasses for a try.
I am not sure if I like the idea of running one of these for a full flow only without the bypass tho. My thinking is that irrespective of the manufacturers claims on holding capacity you are increasing the risk for running unfiltered oil around the engine should it clog. That is why engines developed using coarser filters on the pressure system to trade off filtering ability with holding capacity. It makes sense to me that you either run a regular filter and the Ea Bypass filter which will still give you the benefits of cleaner oil, or if you wish run the Ea on both this way the bypass will hopefully bear the brunt of the filtering action.

With regard to catastophic bypass failure as a reasoning, I have never liked the idea of the sump pan return method (I am setting mine up to return to the fill tube) and lets face it when you have an oil cooler you increase the risk of oil loss from the lines anyways. A properly installed bypass should not really increase the risk that much on such failures with the trade off of much improved oil cleaning

cheers
Nobby

With regard to catastophic bypass failure as a reasoning, I have never liked the idea of the sump pan return method (I am setting mine up to return to the fill tube)

That's what I did and I especially like the fact that I can look in through the fill tube, while the engine is running, and make sure the bypass is still flowing as expected.

Nobby, as I may have indicated, that is one of the great aspects of the full microglass medium. It can filter ultra fine, flow much, much easier than a cellulose AND hold four to five times the particulates of a comparable sized paper element. So, using a full microglass is truly a win/win situation, but, as with synthetic oils, the price of the filter is signicantly more than the comparable sized cellulose filter.

So, given relatively normal extended drain intervals, the EaO full flow should be just fine. Another area is cold weather start-up. Cellulose with its rather high composition of water expands significantly in sub-zero temps. Microglass is essentially unaffected by cold temps; thus little or no chance of even momentary by-pass in those conditions..

My comments on "break-in" where, of course, for the normal Duramax and the use of synthetic a possibility from day one but is rather a waste of money in that a new engine does need a few early changes/flushes to get rid of the build-dirt and seating metals. However, break in is not the multi thousand mile process of old.

I would suggest you be on site when a new million dollar CAT D11 bulldozer is delivered. The instructions do not say "take it easy for a bit"....
The same is true for a Cummins or Detroit over the road truck..
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Hey George I get it with regard to the Ea's ability to hold more dirt at a finer filtering rate, however I guess I am skeptical at this point as to just how much more it can hold. Like any new product, I am relying on manufacturers info and not necessarily willing to be a guinea pig. Seems to me that you can more safely enjoy the benefits of this filter by it not being the only one in the system. Each to there own I guess.

Regards to Break In, (semantics I guess) I do not consider the term break in to mean go easy on her. On the contrary I concur after initial runup and checks normal break in for a diesel is to give it to her. However the term break in to me means achieving ring seat etc which in certain cases can mean initially using a different oil and does have a certain time factor attached to it. I'm sure as a lubrication specialist you are familiar with the somewhat forgotten 'Break In' oils that engines used to be supplied with. I am still somewhat on the fence with regards to todays new engines happily breaking in on synthetic, however in the big scheme of things it is of little concern to me though as I do not really work on the new stuff and anyway running dino as classically found works and over the life of the engine creates no harm. More to the point I cannot afford a new truck anyways!

Good point on the initial use of dino being more cost effective as well.

cheers
Nobby

Awesome article. Thanks for the info!

Well, you did and I should have...

Lets get beyond that. I want to know more about the differences between the Mobil-1 and Amsoil. All the tests I have seen puts Ams above Mobil-1. I was told that the Mobil was a highly refined dino and the Ams was a totally man made product free from all impurities. So what is the real scoop? Thanks ....

A full synthetic is a Grade IV PAO (polyalphaolaphine) produced primarily from methane. Amsoil's synthetics and Mobil 1 and Delvac 1 are all Grade IV PAOs. A Grade III "synthetic" is actually an ultrarefined mineral oil. Shell Rotella T 5W40 and Castrol GTX are Grade IIIs. Castrol won a lawsuit a few years back, and Grade IIIs can be called synthetics, even though they are higher grade dino oils. Mobil and Chevron were industry leaders in developing the process for producing Grade III oils, so that may be the source of your "bum dope" on Mobil being Grade III. Amsoil, being a smaller company, does not produce it's own Grade IV base oils, it buys them and blends its own additive package and labeling. Where does it buy it's Grade IV PAO? Mobil.

As I may have previously shared, we routinely upgrade 30 micron cellulose filters (in industrial applications) with 6 micron beta 1000 microglass elements and the life of the 6 micron microglass filter generally is 3 to 4 times that of the 30 micron cellulose/paper element before reaching max delta P. Even though we are filtering to a much tighter level, the microglass' dirt holding capacity being so much greater enables overall filter life extension.
Which is to my point that in our transition from paper & paper/glass blends to a full glass (Amsoil EaO), we should certainly not be experiencing any capacity issues with this media in normal or even extended operation, from my experience.
Moreover, the elimination of those "momentary" by-passes which occur on cold morning start-ups, oil pressure surges, those are the types of bypass which I think the EaO filter media will totally eliminate...
George Morrison, STLE CLS

As I may have previously shared, we routinely upgrade 30 micron cellulose filters (in industrial applications) with 6 micron beta 1000 microglass elements and the life of the 6 micron microglass filter generally is 3 to 4 times that of the 30 micron cellulose/paper element before reaching max delta P. Even though we are filtering to a much tighter level, the microglass' dirt holding capacity being so much greater enables overall filter life extension.
Which is to my point that in our transition from paper & paper/glass blends to a full glass (Amsoil EaO), we should certainly not be experiencing any capacity issues with this media in normal or even extended operation, from my experience.
Moreover, the elimination of those "momentary" by-passes which occur on cold morning start-ups, oil pressure surges, those are the types of bypass which I think the EaO filter media will totally eliminate...
George Morrison, STLE CLS
To add to this, most cellulose medias are about 30-40% impermeable. The technology of a natural fiber is quite crude. It is hard to use a natural fiber and make every square millimeter capable of filtering to a fine efficiency AND still pass the oil without resistance. In paper oil and air filters, much of the media surface can pass NOTHING. When the fiber is completely fabricated synthetically, there is a lot more control over the quality and design of the media. SPICER

In Nov. of last year changed the oil to Amsoil 15-40 and put Eao type filter on have just over 8000 miles on this change no drop in oil level and the truck starts better and have seen slight increase of MPG (this could also be from ULSD fuel). I put 31,000 miles on truck frist with 4 normal changes. I am sold on this oil and filter setup.

Hey George,
Just curious then as to whether you have done any testing on a used extended service filter to ascertain real world figures on flow reduction if any.

cheers
Nobby

Hey George I get it with regard to the Ea's ability to hold more dirt at a finer filtering rate, however I guess I am skeptical at this point as to just how much more it can hold. Like any new product, I am relying on manufacturers info and not necessarily willing to be a guinea pig. Seems to me that you can more safely enjoy the benefits of this filter by it not being the only one in the system. Each to there own I guess.

Regards to Break In, (semantics I guess) I do not consider the term break in to mean go easy on her. On the contrary I concur after initial runup and checks normal break in for a diesel is to give it to her. However the term break in to me means achieving ring seat etc which in certain cases can mean initially using a different oil and does have a certain time factor attached to it. I'm sure as a lubrication specialist you are familiar with the somewhat forgotten 'Break In' oils that engines used to be supplied with. I am still somewhat on the fence with regards to todays new engines happily breaking in on synthetic, however in the big scheme of things it is of little concern to me though as I do not really work on the new stuff and anyway running dino as classically found works and over the life of the engine creates no harm. More to the point I cannot afford a new truck anyways!

Good point on the initial use of dino being more cost effective as well.

cheers
Nobby
Well, you don’t have to be the guinea pig; I already did that twice, once with my gasser, and once with the Duramax. I have run both to 25000miles without changing the EaO filter and both trucks are still operational. As soon as I receive the results form my oil sample from the Duramax I will post the results, they should be here any day now. On the gasser, I would regularly push the interval out to around 30,000miles and even over 38,000miles on one occasion. I will be pulling an oil sample on that truck in the next few weeks as well, it is the info I want to see, I have been running the EaO filter on it for around 100,000 miles now, and its predecessor before that, the truck has over 250,000 miles of abuse, and I figure if I get a good sample off of it this time, the filter is perfectly capable of what George said it is. I haven’t pulled a sample from that truck before, because I kind of figured that it would tell me if it wasn’t getting oil (it’s not my primary vehicle anymore, actually I am currently loaning it out to a friend so that it doesn’t just sit in the drive way and wait for me to give it attention), but now I’m curious.

I do, however, have a bypass setup sitting in the box in my garage, but I haven’t put it on yet. I’m going to see how things look, and then I may try to put it on before winter, and just go to oil sampling and filter swaps.

bigman, Are you intending to do particle count with your oil samples? Without particle count the results are meaningless as far as fine filtration goes. SPICER

Re: flow restriction.. Excellent question/excellent point and no, I have not. That is a difficult aspect to do "real world" differential pressure monitoring. One has to go with particle count data over the long term to ascertain a safe oil filter change interval.. I am going to run another particle count at 10,000 miles on my Sequoia and will do the same with the Duramax. If we see particle counts changing appreciably, we will then know I have "gone too far". Without having those gauges to determine a full or partial by-pass condition, filter life maximization becomes difficult...

However, I am not concerned with fairly using concservative extended oil filter changes of 10,000 or 15,000 miles on the Duramax, given my previously posted experience with microglass vs. cellulose element dirt holding capacities.
George Morrison, STLE CLS

I was envisioning taking a filter holder and setting it up to measure pressures either side of a used filter whilst being supplied oil at a constant rate. Hmm not enough hours in the day.

As I was writing my response last night I was realising that as you are saying a simple way to determine this is observing oil analysis now that you have a baseline. Sure if it starts to clog then it stands to reason that your particle counts should start to go up.

Bigman just to note the issue here is not oil starvation as that will not happen. The system is setup so that should the filter clog it gets bypassed to ensure continued lubrication. At this point you are sending unfiltered oil around the engine, more of a long term issue then. Unfortunately when this happens there is no real way of telling.

I am almost convinced George. :)

cheers
Nobby

i'm also eagerly awaiting the results before I retire my mobil 1's to Amsoil filters on my D-max. Admittedly I've always steered clear of Amsoil products except for my motorcycle which is air/oil cooled because I couldn't find enough on the shelves locally to fill it with the major brands.

However it the test for D-max comes back good, I'll be buying their filters for all my vehicles.

The dealer did a free oil change at 3000 miles and I'm goinging to do another at about 6000. After that I want to switch to a synthetic oil and the EaO filter. I'd like to switch to Mobil 1 Delvac particularly since it's available off the shelf locally. My concern is that Delvac is 5w40 as opposed to 15w40 and I live in sunny Southern California in a suburb that had one of it's coldest winters in a long time and it only got down to 27.9 F. On the other hand it gets up to 109-110 F in the summer. In the manual they recommend 5w40 in colder environents and 15w40 in "normal and warmer environments" - I presume they're referring to dino oil. So is a Synthetic 5w40 different enough that it's ok to use in a situation like mine? Thanks for this great discussion.

Guy

it you look at the oil recommendation page in your manual, it shows 15w40 in a range from 40 to 100+(if memory serves) 5w40 has the same temperature range up but a lower range down. You can use either oil in your situation.

Living in SoCal, I have the same concerns as duraguy. The owners manual states: "5W-40 is not recommended for use at high temperatures, above 100 Degrees F"

Because we see those temperatures I have stayed away from Mobile 1 Delvac, even though the label states it is good for 15W-40 applications. Why so few 15W-40 synthetic choices?

There are few 15W40 synthetic choices because synthetic has such superior temperature range. High temperature tolerance and low temperature flow characteristics are one of the things that make synthetics valuable and expensive. You are focusing on the cold temperature rating and worried about the high temperature rating. If a synthetic is rated at 40, it will provide the viscosity of 40 at higher temperature than a non-synthetic oil rated at 40. If a synthetic is rated at 5, it will provide the flow of a 5 weight oil at low temperatures, where a non-synthetic can only flow like a 15 weight due to thickening. If a synthetic has an upper (high temperature) rating of 40 there is no problem. I've run 5W40 synthetic from -25 to 100 degrees and better and have no concerns of high temperature and love the cold cranking performance in extremely cold temperature. I do not run anything less than a 40 in my truck . I tried one batch of Amsoil 0W30 synthetic in my truck and my wear metals jumped up. I think you are making too much about the lower rating and unnecessarily concerned when the upper rating is 40.

Confirming what Idle Chatter spoke of so well, one of the aspects of a full Group IV or V synthetic is oil viscosity temperature stability. Mineral base oils thin with high temperature, thicken with cold temperature. A Group IV or V synthetic base stock does the same but to a much lesser degree. Which is one of the major advantages of a full synthetic. When one is going to actually blend a 15W-40 mineral based oil, one has to begin with a base stock that flows like a 15 weight oil at cold temperatures: a 15 weight oil. Then one adds considerable viscosity index improvers (miniature plastic coil springs, actually) that cause the 15 weight oil to thicken when heated. We now have a multi-viscosity 15W-40 engine oil. The problem is that these wonderful plastic coil springs are subject to wear and tear and degrade over time. Additionally they are subject to a condition of "shock" which can occur in severe pressure conditions, as in camshaft/valve actuation. When blending a full, real synthetic, one can begin with a 40 weight synthetic base stock as it can easily achieve the cold pour rating of a 15W since it does not thicken at cold test temperatures. In fact the 40W synthetic base stock will flow down to 60 below zero. Thus the 5W API rating. It is just an inherent fact of life that synthetic base stock enables. But the major advantage is in high temperature operation. With no or very little VI additization, the synthetic base stock provides a higher level of stable oil viscosity, providing superior level of metal to metal protection/lubrication for a longer period of time than a VI additized mineral base stock. Shock shear and temporary viscosity loss does not exist with Group IV or V. Which will readily evidence itself in significantly longer turbo-charger and cam/valve system life, as example.
Long answer but in short, in high temperature operations the 5W-40 rated full synthetic will provide significantly superior lubrication over a 15W-40 mineral based oil. Temperature extremes, both hot and cold, are synthetic engine and transmission oils forte.
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Idle_Chatter, George,

Great, well reasoned, responses! I was puzzled as to why the owners manual was concerned with high temp performance of the 5W-40 vs. 15W-40, when they are both 40 at high temp.

From your responses, I conclude that the owners manual is concerning itself with mineral based oils. That there is a difference in 40W performance, depending on whether one starts with 5W vs. 15W mineral bases. Have I got that correct?

I'd say you have it 100% correct, the owners manual may have concerns over the Grade III "synthetics" that are actually ultrarefined mineral oils and therefore rely on a high dosage of viscosity improvers to "simulate" the performance of a true Group IV/V full synthetic.

Great info Idle chatter and Georgecls. You have provided great information that is helpful to many of us. Synthetics is looking better to me as a future option on my oil choice

The dealer I bought my truck at kind of frowned on using synthetics in a Duramax. I think they might be living in the past, because when I mentioned Shell Rotella 15W-40 they said the older Duramxes liked the Shell Rotella but the newer ones needed the Delo 400 oil. I thought humm...this dealer must use delo 400 and is wanting to push the product. I thought that was total hogwash because the LBZ I have functions just fine with Shell Rotella 15W-40. I am interested in using a synthetic oil in the future, because I see some benfits from it. My truck has 15,000 mile son it now and after i use up my remaining 5 gallons or so of Rotella I think I might take switch over to synthetic.

Swung by my local Amsoil dealer today and got 12qt of the 15-40 diesel and marine along with one of these new fangeled EAO filters........Been running the 1540 since 3000 miles, I think Im doing the right thing here.......

Thanks for the great info.....now if we could only get these special filters for the VW TDIs!

Thank you Georgecls and Idle chatter. I've been perseverating over this for a while now and it's often tough to sift out the advertising, myths and personal preferences from the facts. But this is what makes it all fun. Thanks again.

Guy

Unfortunately most dealerships seem to be the stronghold of myths and wivestails regarding synthetic lubricants.. For years high performance automobiles have been shipping with group IV/V synthetics from the factory, with many requiring their use for warranty. And here we have a high performance turbocharged diesel engine in the Duramax that *almost* began shipping with synthetic engine oil a year ago but did not come to fruition due to international availability reasons and yet some dealerships still hang on to the mineral base engine oil fables. It would be in their total best interest to promote the use of synthetic engine oils with their obvious advantages as it relates to warranty, yet due to lack of knowledge, afraid to move forward.
In one's first change to synthetic, it takes about 30 seconds to become a believer. After you start your Duramax, to watch that oil pressure gauge go *immediately* to a high idle oil pressure/flow, it is as it should be...
One will never go back to the farm (mineral based engine oil) after that first start-up.....
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Wow. Glad I came across this thread. I am at about 7500 miles and was planning to change over to synthetic and add a bypass filtration setup at 10,000. Had been going back and forth on the bypass system but after reading this I think I will just go with the AmsOil filters and synthetic and change every 10,000. Probably overkill but I don't think psychologically I could bring myself to go 15 or 20K on an oil change (It just doesn't seem right). Thanks George and the others for some awesome info!

On another topic but one that has already been brought up in this thread: Are the AmsOil Air Filters (Donaldson) for the LBZs the same as the OE filters or are they better? I saw Spicer's post that the AmsOil filters were better than OE but does that include the LBZ filters or only the older ones? I know GM drastically improved the Air Intake systems on the LBZs. If they are better I make make the swap but the AmsOil air filters are quite a bit more $ than the OE.

does amsoil have fuel filters like the oil filter?

does amsoil have fuel filters like the oil filter?

If you install a lift pump, you could use the Amsoil bypass filter as a fuel filter. I have a Harvard filter on my 6.5 between the factory filter and the injector pump. Since the Dmax sucks the fuel through the stock filter, you can't add any more restriction w/o adding a pump to push it through.

I cant find it anywhere but is the oil filter on the 6.6 the same as the 7.8 I would like to upgrade to the new filter but they don't list my c6500 7.8l in there app guide, they don't list any of the MD's. Napa nor partsamerica.com list the Md's so I cant look up the "stock" part number. I have oil change scheduled for tomorrow so if possible I would like to give the shop this filter to do the job with. I have been using rotella t but am trying to convince the boss man to go syn so I hope it would be worth it.

I cant find it anywhere but is the oil filter on the 6.6 the same as the 7.8 I would like to upgrade to the new filter but they don't list my c6500 7.8l in there app guide, they don't list any of the MD's. Napa nor partsamerica.com list the Md's so I cant look up the "stock" part number. I have oil change scheduled for tomorrow so if possible I would like to give the shop this filter to do the job with. I have been using rotella t but am trying to convince the boss man to go syn so I hope it would be worth it.

According to the Wix website your filter# would be a 51798, which has a 1 1/8" x 16 thread. When you cross this on Amsoil all you get is a 51798 wix# as Amsoil also sells wix. Not the same as a 6.6 then.

I guess install a bypass system or try to locate a remote filter adapter, although I just did a quick search for a 1 1/8" x 16 adapter and did not find anything.

cheers
Nobby

If you install a lift pump, you could use the Amsoil bypass filter as a fuel filter. I have a Harvard filter on my 6.5 between the factory filter and the injector pump. Since the Dmax sucks the fuel through the stock filter, you can't add any more restriction w/o adding a pump to push it through.

you ever look under a regular cab? i dont have much if any room under there. i am aware of the lift pump stuff, i used to run a cat filter. i was just wondering about the fuel filter cause it would probably be a ton CHEAPER to use it at the stock location

Hey George, any updates on this filter with the Duramax? Thanks

Sorry; have been unfortunately too busy to capture a sample.. Darned job... I did sample the Sequoia at 12,000 mile ODI and the particle counts were elevated but still 2 to 3 ISO numbers below what they were with the OEM filter at 10,000 miles...
One ISO number = particules cut in half... 2 to 3 ISO numbers and I am a happy camper....
George Morrison, STLE CLS

I'm coming up on 500 miles on my new Duramax.....I'm going Syn in the rear.....And changing the Allison Spin on....What should I do about the engine oil........I have a Wix filter on order for the Engine and Tranny.....

I'm coming up on 500 miles on my new Duramax.....I'm going Syn in the rear.....And changing the Allison Spin on....What should I do about the engine oil........I have a Wix filter on order for the Engine and Tranny.....

Question is what oil or what filter? The WIX are fine filters IMO. As for oil, you can go syn anytime. Some wait til 10-20K and others at 500 miles. No harm done, it just may take a little longer to "break in" but it will.
Best of luck with the new wheels!!

Any updates on this filter with the Duramax?

I was thinking about going with this filter vs the AC Delco I am currently using. I will be running Schaeffer 9000 5w-40 oil. Would it be worth switching to this filter?

Pretty hard to beat the technology in these. It will spread to other companies soon I'm guessing.

I have been in touch with George on this. He was unable to get a sample at his last oil change, so this is delayed. However, I am doing the test on my truck.

I had an Oilguard bypass for the last 3 years. I have data from three samples of my oil that gives me ISO cleanliness levels using the bypass. Needless to say the oil was VERY clean according to ISO standards. I have taken off my bypass now and am using just an Amsoil EaO oil filter. I talked to George and at 5000 miles I will sample for ISO cleanliness. We will be able to compare this to the oilguard bypass. The numbers are very straight forward and we will be able to see just how good or bad this filter is. SPICER

I've been running an EAO full-flow and Bypass cartridge on my BMK-17 dual remote. I'll be changing oil and filter this week and have ordered a full ferrographic analysis kit for the UOA. I'll post my results when I get them.

I put this filter on the Dmax soon after I read this report......nice!

Do you know if/when they will be coming out with this filter for the VW TDI? I asked my local Amsoil guy, but he didnt really get it.

Also....is the EAo air filter worth buying?

Just to be clear, you are testing AMSOIL's full flow against Oilguard's bypass?
Not really apples to apples but curious to see what we get:)

I've been running an EAO full-flow and Bypass cartridge on my BMK-17 dual remote. I'll be changing oil and filter this week and have ordered a full ferrographic analysis kit for the UOA. I'll post my results when I get them.

The key is to get a "particulate count". Not sure if this is included in the ferrographic analysis. ISO cleanliness (measures filter performance) is only possible with particle count.

Heath, You are right, the full flow filters and bypass have traditionally been far from comparable. Full flow filters have never been able to perform at the level of a bypass as far as particle count/filtering efficiency goes. Full flow filters never could flow enough oil if the media was too tight. However, the new EaO oil filters are a new breed, blending synthetic fiber (great for low resistance to flow) with the nanofiber technology (great at filtering very small particles. How well a filter removes small particles is done with a particle count, and the results are listed as an "ISO cleanliness level". The results will be listed as three numbers, such as 17/16/14. These numbers correspond to particles in the oil at a certain micron size. If I remember correctly those micron sizes are >4/>6/>14 microns. The numbers correspond with a precise range of particles in that micron size and larger.

With my bypass (Oilguard) my ISO cleanliness was 14/14/11. Considered excellent, and much better than a standard oil filter.

As far as the Amsoil air filter, I have seen its results on the air filter test stand and its results were better than the ACDelco. I do have one and I believe in its ability to filter at an exceptionally good efficiency. However, the Amsoil is marketed as a re-usable, cleanable filter. It is basically a course cellulose paper filter coated in this incredible nanofiber (I have seen it under my microscope and it is REALLY cool). You may vacuum or blow the filter clean. My experience so far, though, is that it must still have a lot of dirt clogging the filter after cleaning because under heavy acceleration I keep tripping my air filter restriction gauge. I think these filters are great, but maybe not as re-usable as they market it to be. I am working with Greg at Lubrication Specialists to see if Amsoil will replace ours under warranty. This is further evidence of the age old notion that you cannot have excellent flow AND super high filtering efficiency in a standard sized air filter. They just clog too soon. The solution at this time appears to be either use a filter like the EaA from Amsoil and change it fairly frequently or get an aftermarket setup like the one sold by United Metal Products UMP that replaces our air box with a really big one and an equally large air filter. The bigger the air filter, the more media, the longer it will take for it to clog, the tighter the media can be. SPICER

Good info. Can't wait for the results:)

George,
I was led to believe that even non-synthetic, synthetics are really synthetic oils by virtue of the fact that even though they start with dino base stock, the molecules are re-arranged to so-called "designer molecules" that bare no resemblance to mineral based substances and in reality are no different than synthetics that start from chemically devised base stocks. Please set me straight.:thankyou2

George,
I was led to believe that even non-synthetic, synthetics are really synthetic oils by virtue of the fact that even though they start with dino base stock, the molecules are re-arranged to so-called "designer molecules" that bare no resemblance to mineral based substances and in reality are no different than synthetics that start from chemically devised base stocks. Please set me straight.:thankyou2
Not to steal George's thunder, but not quite right geezer. A true synthetic is a true synthetic and has long-chain PAO molecules produced and provided. A "semi-synthetic" is a highly refined mineral oil base and is mineral oil. It is not "converted" to a synthetic because they are entirely separate processes. It may, however, have some synthetic stock added to it as part of its additive package, which is why they can call it "synthetic" when it is actually primarily mineral oil. The breakdown on the "semi-syn" versus actual synthetic is temperature range. The true PAO synthetic can run a wide temperature range due to its base component. A "semi-syn" has to be thin enough to perform like a true synthetic at low temperatures and then must be additized to maintain film strength and viscosity at high temperatures. Therefore, as the oil ages and the additive package begins to break down and be consumed, the oil loses critical high temperature performance. This is the main reason that only true synthetics should be used for extended drain intervals.

JUst to clarify a bit more, it comes down to what base stock is used. Group III base stocks are considered synthetic but are a highly processed mineral oil. Most of the impurities are removed and the size of the molecules are more uniform making them a better fluid. Group 4 and 5 base stocks are the "true" man made chemicals. PAO's are group 4. Esters, glycols, and silicone fall in group 5. A syn. may have a blend of different 4 and 5 stocks.
A semi-syn can contain any of these groups along with a dino oil as a mix.
Heath

Idle Chatter: No George's thunder stolen: wonderful explanation, response, thank you.....
Another point little discussed is that there are "Group III base stocks and then there are Group III base stocks". i.e. that there is considerable variation of quality that currently exists in Group II and III base stocks...

However, in Group IV and V base stocks, very little (as in none) variation in performance/quality.
George Morrison, STLE CLS

JUst to clarify a bit more, it comes down to what base stock is used. Group III base stocks are considered synthetic but are a highly processed mineral oil. Most of the impurities are removed and the size of the molecules are more uniform making them a better fluid. Group 4 and 5 base stocks are the "true" man made chemicals. PAO's are group 4. Esters, glycols, and silicone fall in group 5. A syn. may have a blend of different 4 and 5 stocks.
A semi-syn can contain any of these groups along with a dino oil as a mix.
Heath

ok heath as a dealer answer this question for me.

Are AMSoil products a true synthetic or not?

Look at the XL oils say synthetic and are 6.00 a qt(5w30)

the ASL oil says synthetic, but is 7.25 a qt(5w30)

are they using different base stocks? is one a 'true syn' and the other a highly refined synthetic?

can you clarify any of this?

You bet, good question. The XL product line are group III base stocks. Shorter life span and cheaper price. These products were introduced in the late 90's as an alternative for "fast lube" places who were offering synthetics, as group III are what most of these places offer as their synthetics. It was to try an get into that market with a competitively priced product.
Otherwise all other products are made with group 4 or 5 base stocks, the composition of which is proprietary and non of us know for sure. PAO's of course, are the main stock used.