Has anyone given any thought to a lower temp thermostat for the diesel? I live in a place that is relentless heat wise. I am seeing 200 deg on the edge regularly with no load. Just wondering what you all think.

My LLY operates at about the same temps here in Florida. Even when I tow heavy it stays there unless I'm doing some serious climbing with heavy loads. The way the PCM's control every aspect of these trucks you have to wonder if lowering the thermostat temps will adversely affect something else. One of the techie types can address this in much better detail than I can. JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Back in the ancient days, it was common to throw a lower temp Thermostat in to keep temps down.


Nowdays with computer controlled engine management systems, the only thing to be gained is poor performance.


One would have to reprogram the ECM for the lower temps. However, a diesel has an optimum temp operating range and the Duramax was probably designed around 203 deg F.


I've pulled a 6k TT down to Hilton Head, SC and up here in flat land and the engine temp went to 203-205 and stayed there rock solid.


In the winter I have to run the winter cover on to keep engine temps up.


As you've mentioned before the A/C condenser suffers more from the heat than anything else.


I think you are going to see the extreme end of the normal band for amb. operation temps in AZ.


I don't know if you could squeeze a bigger radiator in. Maybe with some mods but I don't think you could gain enough to make it worthwhile.


Could run an aux HX in series though.

The radiator size wasn't my main concern, just lowering temps everywhere, engine compartment is HOT. A larger radiator won't lower the engine temps observed, if the thermostat remains the same.


But as you point out, it could spell trouble. The diesel is a heat machine by definition. just wondered. Thanks for the inputs.

I worked with a mechanical engineer years ago who told me that engines operate more efficiently at higher temperatures. Turns out the son-of-a-gun was probably right.


I tow heavy and run engine temps up to 230* often when pulling long grades or mountains. I'm careful to keep the RPM's up though. GM states these are within normal operating temps for the LLY. The LB7 runs a bit cooler.


JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I run a pair of 160's in my 97 and it runs excellent. Of coarse it is hot as hell here in Texas. I also run no antifreeze (in the summer) Just plain water and two bottles of water wetter.


Higher temps. are never a good thing!

When you lower the thermistat though you also reduce the radiators abilty to shed its heat due to reduced tempature differentail between air and water temp. If under hood temps are a concern you should change to more aggressive fan cooling either with a "tighter" clutch that runs more and maybe a few aux electic cooling fans. Either one will lower engine temps and under hood temps as well. Your engine will produce so many BTU of heat (it varies with power setting but not thermostat) and that heat has to be dissapated to the surrounding air to cool it.

Diesels run best as hot as they will stand it, with nice COLD Air to the intake, and lots of it!

Thanks for the ideas. Snoman makes a good point. A big purpose of hi temp (hi pressure) water is the efficent heat exchange. A lower temp thermostat would probably reduce the work envelope of the truck.


Think what we need is a fan clutch that works better at low RPM and cuts out at higher RPM. Let's work on that!

Something else to keep in mind. Motor oil starts to break down at about 300 degrees F and in a motor running under a heavy load at 230 or 240 degrees the oil temp in the bearings and other areas could easily reach near or exceed 300 before it returns to pan and sent to cooler. Any engine gas of deisel should no be pulled real hard much above 210 or so for sustained periods in my opinoin. Also bear in mind that crank seal life is greatly shortened at higher engine temps, especailly the rear main seal. I have seen engines a few years old start leaking badly there after being run up to 240F or so a few times. 2 cents anyway.

Isn't there a seperate oil cooler? Haven's seen it yet.

The oil cooler is near the oil filter (internal component in engine). The oil cooler is a liquid to liquid heat exchanger (oil to water). The water(water/dexcol mixture) then disipates the heat through the engine radiator.

Thanks. Then lowering the water temp would lower the oil temp? Wonder if it is possible to guage the oil temp exiting the turbo. I assume it is oil lubricated/cooled.

Thanks. Then lowering the water temp would lower the oil temp? Wonder if it is possible to guage the oil temp exiting the turbo. I assume it is oil lubricated/cooled.


Kinda yes and no. If you keep engine temps down, oil temps will be good. It is possible to cool oil cooler than engine before it is pumped back in but if engine is hot it will heat oil quickly so the real "trick" is to keep engine temp below 210 or so on long hard pulls. As far as oil temps, you want to read it before it is cooled, not after to see how hot it is getting.

I have seen where people, after putting in a lower thermostat on a vehicle, were surprised to see their eng temp climb! Widely misunderstood, eh?


Could be the best way to keep cooling efficiency is to "not" put in a lower stat. A lower temp stat could make more occurences of overheating because of the reduced cooling efficiency? Feels backwards, but I can see it.


A balancing act with a system that uses the "hot" water to cool oil. And just because the eng temp reads 200, doesn't mean the water-oil bath temp isn't much lower than that, correct? Still it would be safe to assume that if the eng temp sees 30 degrees higher, the oil is also...(without additional air cooling of the oil)


I don't hear of people with oil temp concerns, but I still wonder what it is at the turbo.

Thanks. Then lowering the water temp would lower the oil temp? Wonder if it is possible to guage the oil temp exiting the turbo. I assume it is oil lubricated/cooled.





The OEM turbo is both oil and water cooled. The aftermarket turbos that are coming out soon are only oil cooled.

OTR rigs and piston driven aircraft have watched oil temps for years. (last summer in Colorado I chatted with a trucker that stop at the summit of a high pass and he paused because he got concerned about oil temps on the long climb up and wanted it to cool out a bit) Oil temp is not mentioned much and might be pretty scary on some rigs too to see it. They only recently starting putting in tranny temp gauges from factory. Engine oil usually runs 30 to 50 degrees hotter than engine temp when pulling hard from oil sheer fricton and pressure in bearings.

I'd be concerned if oil ever saw 250, or 280 for syn, just don't want it varnishing or coking. Sounds like you think it is, for some. I don't like big swings either. This "on-off" fan is pathetic for modulating temp.

From the service manual


Thermostats (6.6L Diesel Engine)
The thermostats are coolant flow control components. The purpose of the thermostats are to regulate the correct operating temperature of the engine. The thermostats utilizes a temperature sensitive wax-pellet element. The element connects to a valve through a piston. When the element is heated, it expands and exerts pressure against a rubber piston. This pressure forces the valve to open. As the element is cooled, it contracts. This contraction allows a spring to push the valve closed.

The 6.6L diesel engine requires two thermostats for correct coolant flow. The front thermostat is a dual purpose thermostat. The front thermostat controls the coolant flow to the bypass port and to the water outlet. The rear thermostat only controls the coolant flow to the water outlet.

When the coolant temperature is below the rated thermostat opening temperature, the front thermostat valve remains closed to the water outlet and is opened to the bypass port. The bottom portion of the thermostat is raised off of the bypass port while at the same time the top portion closes the coolant flow to the water outlet. The rear thermostat also is closed to the water outlet during engine warm-up. This prevents circulation of the coolant to the radiator and allows the engine to warm up quickly. After the coolant temperature reaches 82°C (180°F) the front thermostat primary valve opening temperature, the front thermostat primary valve will start to open. The coolant is then allowed to circulate through the thermostat to the radiator where the engine heat is dissipated to the atmosphere. As the engine coolant reaches 85°C (185°F) and more coolant demand is required the front thermostat secondary valve begins to close the bypass port and the rear thermostat begins to open coolant flow to the water outlet. The thermostats will continue to control the coolant flow by opening and closing. The front thermostat will be fully open when the coolant temperature reaches 95°C (203°F) the rear thermostat will be fully open when the coolant temperature reaches 100°C (212°F). The thermostat also provides a restriction in the cooling system, even after the it has opened. This restriction creates a pressure difference which prevents cavitation at the water pump and forces coolant to circulate through the engine block.

I'd be concerned if oil ever saw 250, or 280 for syn, just don't want it varnishing or coking. Sounds like you think it is, for some. I don't like big swings either. This "on-off" fan is pathetic for modulating temp.

Well you know if engine temps reach 230 or better under a heavy load that oil temps are likely to be in the 260 to 280 degree range in the area mentioned above which is really too hot.

What's the fix?


JJ,


looks like you have a guard on, how much is that obscuring airflow? There is lousy flow across the radiator in the stock truck. Adding grill accessories is not good for cooling. When you you see over 210, is your fan engaged the whole time?


I am building a trans cooler to be relocated from the present location. Sounds like you would benefit.

Part of the problem is the truck itself. When they designed it and "fit" that engine in there they did no leave much room for the air to flow through it so more agressive fan cooling may be the only real long term solution to heating problems.

Gee Snowman you forgot to add that dodge builds a different truck for the cummis...of coarse diesels are junk anyway right.





My question is have any f you guys out thereoverheated a d-max? I've never heard of it, but I've never seen a million dollars either...


If it is n fact a problem, maybe ave it checked out at he dealer. More air flow may help..maybe do some grill mods, like with a GMC you could cut out the thre bar and run a sped grill...


Ox

My question is have any f you guys out thereoverheated a d-max? I've never heard of it, but I've never seen a million dollars either...





Define overheating. I haven't boiled one, but then I don't need to stick my head in the oven to know it's bad for my health. Does it have to boil (260 degrees!) for it to have a problem? I'm not trying to be smart, but remember you have a 40 degree year round head start on cooling, compared to the desert rats. Our streets are 130 degrees in the summer. Time for GM to offer the "optional cooling package". (or we will be moving back home after Lake Powell is dry anyway)


But to answer your question there is one guy here from Gilbert, I think he has boiled one.Edited by: masterp2

Gee Snowman you forgot to add that dodge builds a different truck for the cummis...of coarse diesels are junk anyway right.


My question is have any f you guys out thereoverheated a d-max? I've never heard of it, but I've never seen a million dollars either...


If it is n fact a problem, maybe ave it checked out at he dealer. More air flow may help..maybe do some grill mods, like with a GMC you could cut out the thre bar and run a sped grill...


Ox

I have not heard of many Dodges hitting 230 or 240 towing (if they have I have never heard it but it is possible especailly when boosted) Also the Cummins is a straight 6 so there should be more room for airflow in engine compartment and better cooling. Some people say you have to boil it to "overheat" your engine but to me, gas or diesel, when you boil one, it may be too late and you may have done damage that will show up later. Above 210 is caution and time to cut back a bit in my book and about 230 and above it is idle out and shutdown time (if needed to cool, especailly when pulling it hard). Hi temps are hard on engine and its seals even though it may not show up for a while, it will take its toll.

Also, I NEVER said Diesels were junk. I may have a few reservations about them but that does not make them "Junk" Edited by: snoman

masterp2, so now you've got me thinking? I put a stainless steel insert in front of the stock plastic (piece of sh_t) grille. It has vertical slats, whereas the factory is cris-crossed. You know the cris-cross appears very inefficient. So not only do I have the air obstruction from the OEM, I'm certain to be getting some restriction from the add-on. Dangit! I'm going to look for a way to detach the OEM and attach the aftermarket grille and see what happens.


As for my brush/grill guard I chose Westin's model that doesn't cover any of the grille area so as to avoid air restriction. That being said, some engineering type out there is going to post that "somehow it is creating a vortex affect causing the air to convex eratically creating turbulence thereby adversely affecting airflow!" Don't ask me what I just said! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif But you get the point! I took a couple of pictures of the beast this weekend, but they are too big to post. I'll keep trying.


JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Yep, that spells trouble, guarantee improvement if you remove the stocker. You've double the air resistance.

You would think GM's engineers would have figured the diesel Silverado's might just require a higher efficiency/capacity cooling system over the gassers since they tend to run hotter and are used for the most extreme applications. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wacko.gif The OEM grille has considerable frontal mass to it which cannot be conducive to allowing air to move freely around/through it.


One other option I haven't seen mentioned! If you mounted a small a/c unit on the front bumper, throw a generator in the bed, wallah, an air conditioned engine! Overheating solved, heck one could even vent some of the cold air to the cabin and solve their ac problems. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Great minds think alike, anyone out there agree with me? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif Didn't think so!


JJ's just thinking "outside the box"! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Insanity rules! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Rock On.gif


Back to business! The aftermarket grille attaches directly to the OEM grille. This could get interesting! JJ may actually have to fabricate something. Mama JJ will have the first aid kit handy during the entire evolution! http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pinch.gif I may just cut away the pieces of the OEM that aren't needed seeing as it is plastic. Will advise.


JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Good observation about grill area for deisel P/U's. It makes too much sense so it will never happen. If chevy had a bigger dog house on a P/U so there was more room for air flow around engine with a diesel. I think there would be less heating issues. Just raise the hood on one and see how tight it is in there and it need help getting air thru there. Dodge has a interesting solution with seperate loactions for radiator and A/C condensor. My 2000 K3500 is a gasser but it has lots or room around engine and it never gets hot no matter what I do with it and the A/C always work even when 90 plus in traffic. Edited by: snoman

I'm meck-anickel-ally challenged so if this doesn't make sense be gentle! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif When you look to the inside of the front wheels there are these shrouds that looked like they are just pinned up. I take it these are to keep dirt and other debris from coming up and entering/hitting the engine? They also may provide easy access to certain components. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


What if a couple of 2-3" ventilation holes were cut in certain locations of these shrouds where debris/dirt intrusion is a minimal risk? This would allow more of the hot air around the engine to be vented/dispersed? They appear to be very pliable so cutting a couple of holes wouldn't appear very hard. OK, am I nuts, again? JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wacko.gif

OK, am I nuts, again? JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wacko.gif

Not really, how about just maybe removing them during hot weather?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gifIf my assumption is correct and their purpose is to keep objects from getting kicked up by the tires into the engine compartment, if they are totally removed they wouldn't provide any protection. This can't be good!


Small ventilation holes (1-2-3" in diameter) strategically drilled in the shrouds may improve air flow in the engine compartment by allowing more air to pass thru the engine compartment and exit through the wheel wells and underneath the truck. Wouldn't this improve cooling efficiency? OR Maybe the shrouds are already designed to divert hot air away from the engine compartment through the fan driven air? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


OK, this sounds too darn easy, what am I missing? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


I'll cut away as much of the OEM grille as I can and still allow the aftermarket to be structurally sound. Depending upon what others think about the wheel well shroud idea I'm willing to try this. Gulp! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gifJJ

Please don't cut into you wheel well shrouds! I don't think there would be any benefit, but plenty of detriment. A reverse hood scoop would be the best idea for exhausting fan heated air, and until you mentioned hacking into your truck, this didn't come to mind. I think it would work GREAT. The scoop gives exhausted air another place to go, but better, it becomes a venturi at speed, dramatically lowering pressure at the fan area (face of cooling stack). My gut feeling is that it would be a huge improvement to airflow across the stack, particularly at speed, clutch disengaged.

Actually the there is a high pressure area at base of windshield and a reverse scoop would not work well and it would dump heat and odors from engine into cabin intake air too. Side vents would be the best because it would not interfere with climate control. You could install a flexable large mess screen to keep trash out when flap is removed. I do think that it is really your most viable option to get more air flow short of cutting louvers into fenders for engine compartmant vents.

Shotdown the pics of a big scoop on my truck!


High pressure? It's been a long time since I was in the wind tunnel as an olympic skier, but I remember my trainer and the tech discussing my protruding tuck position rumpass in the otherwise perfect windstream. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


The scoop can be forward located on the hood, that is better positioning to exhaust the fan anyway, don't you think? Where is the air intake you speak of? What fumes? You are probably right, just getting a free education here.

So I take it nobody likes my ac on the ole front bumper suggestion? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


I'm totally in the dark on the reverse scoop idea, nothing new! The side vents I can understand. Are the shrouds easily taken off? Looks like nothing but plastic snap pins holding them in place to me. It's difficult for me to gauge any results right now since we're having such mild weather this past week. If temps get back into the 90's where they have been I can judge better. I could pick a nice day with no rain forecast to see if there is any noticeable difference with the shrouds removed.


Anyone else interested in trying this? It would be especially helpful if someone could replicate any overheat conditions to see if there is any noticeable improvement. I'll hook the 5ver up to see what happens. Who knows, maybe we're onto something? OR just maybe http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wacko.gif. JJ

Could be hurricane fever

Shotdown the pics of a big scoop on my truck!


High pressure? It's been a long time since I was in the wind tunnel as an olympic skier, but I remember my trainer and the tech discussing my protruding tuck position rumpass in the otherwise perfect windstream. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


The scoop can be forward located on the hood, that is better positioning to exhaust the fan anyway, don't you think? Where is the air intake you speak of? What fumes? You are probably right, just getting a free education here.




Back in the late 60's and into the mid 70's, cowl induction was popular because of high pressure area at base of windsheild was found to be more effective than a classic hood scoop. While it has improved with areodynamics, there is still some presure their and you cab inlet air vents are located there. If you vented there the heat would kill A/C effectiveness and pass any odors engine might have as they all "stick" a little from time to time. Edited by: snoman

Here is some serious under hood cooling:


http://www.fast-autos.net/chevrolet/c5r8.jpg

Notice most of it is close to radiator too.

Amric,


Yeah baby yeah! That hood is shagalicious! Sorry, dang Austin Powers marathon this weekend on cable! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


If I were the edge/juice, stacked TTS, with nitro type that hood would definitely be on my truck! Unfortunately I'm a middle aged old fart towing a big ole fifth wheel. Even worse Mama JJ actually drives the truck more than I do! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif She's already tickled pink with all the attention she gets from the truckers in the truck stops. I don't think I could live with her if she had an eye catcher like that hood!


SSSSSSSSSSOOOOOOOOOOOOOO? Other options? I got home too late this evening to get a good look at the shrouds and to cut away the OEM grille. Tomorrow night! JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

IMO that's not so much induction as just plain old exit routing.





i still think a cowl is the answer. Use recycle.

IMO that's not so much induction as just plain old exit routing.


i still think a cowl is the answer. Use recycle.

That ia what I meant, it increase airflow thru radiator by providing a escape path for hot air.

Cowl exhaust would be a bust. No real negative presure there (only positive) and it would toast climate control if any hot air did come out it. At high speeds, cowl induction works far better than OEM hood scoops and was more weather freindly too.

Doesn't a properly designed cowl, makes it's own pressure environment, creating camber (high speed airflow) like the top surface of any airfoil?


What is your experience with cowl design?

will this accomplish anything,


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/emblem_021.jpg

Doesn't a properly designed cowl, makes it's own pressure environment, creating camber (high speed airflow) like the top surface of any airfoil?


What is your experience with cowl design?

When have a upsloped windsheild at the end of hood, it does create pressure at the base of it and is why it has long been used for a source for cabin air. THe camber/vortice lift foil you want to use to creat negative pressure behind cowl opening is defeated by the pressure "bubble" created at base of windsheild. BTW, I do have a pilots license and I worked in R&D around aircraft for 15 years in the past so I do understand how and why things related to it works.

I figured as much. How far out in front of the windshield do you figure that bow "wave" extends?


Is there a way to block off a portion of the vent most affected?

masterp2, any info on the picture you posted of the GMC?? The hood looks sweet, but so does that grill. Do you by any chance know who makes that, or where that person purchased that?? Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread... but to try to stay on topic, maybe the aftermarket grill will allow more airflow through the radiator than the stock grill?? Maybe that is what I'll tell the wife... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Bob

I figured as much. How far out in front of the windshield do you figure that bow "wave" extends?


Is there a way to block off a portion of the vent most affected?

This would be tuff to call without a wind tunnel and smoke injection to track airflow but I would tend to think the the faster you went, the bigger the bubble. A would also tend to think that lovers or a cowl in hood near radiator backside could be effective because it would be well ahead of "bubble". Itcould still cause A/C issue though if exhausted hot air is injested by cabin inlets. Edited by: snoman

The pic is on this board somewhere, search "cowl" in subject line.


The typical cowl hood runs back to the vents. Maybe we can make one with a kit and stock hood.

What about very cold weather when you need to retain engine compartment heat? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif We will need the ability to change the airflow dependent upon weather conditions. Louvers that could be opened or closed might be best. Here in Florida in the winter we start out cool, not cold, then during the day the temps will rise to the 70's or 80's. Certainly don't want something hard to change for the conditions.


Personally I would like something very suttle that doesn't alter the look of my truck too much. Louvers that could be opened/closed that follow the existing hood lines would be nice.


JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

When I lived in Montana during the mid 90's, where I lived it could hit minus 40 and better with little effort. I used to have a snap on "bra" for grille and used to have it zipped completely close below minus 30 or so on my burb as the dual heaters would keep engine cool while keeping cabin warm. Back in the old day (30 thru 50's) some tractors came with shutters over radiator to help keep engine warm in cold weather. You would never se shutters on a modern car, it would make too much sense and someone would use them wrong too.

JJ,


Cut some out of an old barbecue grill, then you can open and shut them at will. You could also then grill hamburgers on you exhaust.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Dennis

...but then we are back to fumes in the cockpit.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Throw Up.gif

Yeah, but hamburger fumes are good.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

So we're having fun at JJ's expense?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pinch.gif OK by me! The ole bbq grill on the hood isn't quite as subtle as I had envisioned! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Also, I like big, fat, juicy burgers so until I upgrade to a 4" exhaust that is simply out of the question. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

DY-NO-MITE!!

Met a guy today who fried his ford tranny (the previous version of course) just doing light travel on soft sand in 100 degree heat. When he told me that, I laughed after seeing the truck(12" lift, 37" monster meat, flames covering half his grill, chipped, you know the type). . He paid $900 to get it towed back from Rocky Point MX. I told him about our fanned cooler project, and we agreed he was the perfect candidate. Can you believe ford replaced the tranny under warranty! Unbelievable.


It's deceptive but there are some conditions that can bite this truck also, in low speed high load conditions. How's that grill surgery coming.

J'ville has forecast heavy thunderstorms for this afternoon. Weather permitting I'll do some carving this evening. The real test will come when I can hook the 5ver up to see if any noticeable drop in temps is realized. Will advise! JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

The whole grill comes off in 20 seconds once you find the clips. Just pull the whole thing off and drive. You'll see the diff.

Met a guy today who fried his ford tranny (the previous version of course) just doing light travel on soft sand in 100 degree heat. When he told me that, I laughed after seeing the truck(12" lift, 37" monster meat, flames covering half his grill, chipped, you know the type). . He paid $900 to get it towed back from Rocky Point MX. I told him about our fanned cooler project, and we agreed he was the perfect candidate. Can you believe ford replaced the tranny under warranty! Unbelievable.


I bet you he had stock axle gearing and no aux tranny cooler either.

masterp2, the stainless steel aftermarket grille I purchased clips onto the OEM grille so no-can-do on just ripping that bad boy out of there. Well technically I guess I could but it would make for a "ghetto" looking truck. Not for JJ! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


I'm going to carve away as much of the OEM as possible to maintain structural integrity to hold the aftermarket on. I figure 75% of the OEM should be cut away if I do it right. Will advise. JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/357_slums.png


Whaah! Yew done liyk dis loook?

OK Michael, for a split second there I could have sworn you were doing a "Toto Teejoe" impersonation? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Are you old enough to remember that mouse from the Ed Sullivan show? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Anyway, the "toothless" look won't work for JJ's Beast. We have had thunderstorms all afternoon. Soon, soon!


You know, I was looking at the front end of the GMC's versus the Chevy's. GMC appears to have a wide open airflow to their radiators, far less restriction than the Chevy's. Are they experiencing the same temps? I'll check some of the other posts like "engine temps" to see what the GMC owners are posting. JJ's out! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

OK Michael, for a split second there I could have sworn you were doing a "Toto Teejoe" impersonation? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Are you old enough to remember that mouse from the Ed Sullivan show? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif





"Ooooh, I hooope noooot" "My name....Jose Jimenez"


You crack me up.


Topo Gigio

Nuff said, we're showing our ages! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif BTW, I'm working on the grille this morning, though the weather is overcast and not very hot. I really need higher temps to see if there is a noticeable difference. Hooking the 5ver up in hot weather would be ever better. Will advise! JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

The picture on page two is Diesel 5's truck. The grill is a street scene speed grill like I was talking about in my last post. Notice how he has also replaced the solid insert in the lower part of the bumper with a grill. That should let more air through as well. Funny someone mentioned louvers, I'm working on something similar for the winter here since the temp is all over the place in the winter. I'll let you guys know if I find something that can be converted to work.

Ox

Grille mod completed. Pictures, pictures, pictures! JJ spilt only a small amount of blood on this project, damn plastic! But anytime I'm not needing a transfusion after doing meck-anickel-al work I'm happy. Picture one shows what was cut away, picture 2 is with the aftermarket reattached. I had to leave some of the old grille to attach the aftermarket to.


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I really suck at posting pictures, sorry. Took the Dumax out for a spin, noticed I hear the fan more now at idle. Not hot enough today to get the temps up where I need to. I may run her down the interstate later to see. Oh, one thing I did notice. These things such a lot of air, and a lot of bugs to. Here in Florida we have love bugs, very heavy in the summer. My radiator was covered with them. BTW, what is the little black radiator in the very front of the truck? That thing is getting unobstructed airflow now. JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

I beleive I would have a removable screen in there of some kind as a bug stop that you can clean rather than letting the evaporator stop them.

You need that guard in florida, to stop the palmetto bugs.


Thanks for the pics, that little radiator is your tranny cooler.


Ox, the lower air dam slot doesn't cool anything directly, how do you figure opening it up helps? I'd like to know more about what you are doing.

I only mentioned the lower opening as another option for more air. You'd need a scoop or something to utilize it, but it's there. I don't have have his problem, so I'm not doing anything but trying to help. Wasn't it you that thought of moving the cooler down there?


Ox

Thanks for the lead-in, not the original cooler, but definately more effective.


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snoman, a removable screen is not a bad idea. I should be able to fabricate something that can be attached to the "palmetto bug" guard (smart ass masterp2http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif) and remove it when towing for max airflow. For those experiencing higher engine temps, it would only take a minute to pull the OEM grille off and run their trucks to see if insufficient airflow is the cause. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


blueox3, I did notice the lower opening you referenced, but due to the guard I really wasn't able to get in there and look.


I figure I cut away 70-75% of the OEM grill. The aftermarket design does appear as restrictive (vertical grooves versus X). The tranny cooler is now getting an unrestricted shot of cool air. You know the middle piece with the Chevy emblem on it is likely the worst air restrictor.


Maybe it was mental but I thought the fan sounded like it was pulling more air at idle. The real test will come when we get some hot weather and I put the 5ver behind it.


I looked at the truck on page 2, the GMC? That is a nice looking truck, the hood looks menacing! Will advise. JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Mikey...you need a life....

...and a grill to protect your cooler....

So true...the cooler is designed to operate with the original cover in place, doesn't need supplemental airflow, it has 2 fans.

Quickie Update: Engine temps are the same, initial tranny temps do appear to be about 15-20* lower. Kinda makes sense due to removing the obstruction in front of the tranny cooler, and engine temps are thermostatically controlled.


Will know much more when I put some weight to it! JJ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

...and what that means, as you observed, the engine will ALWAYS stay on one mark, thermostatically controlled, UNTIL heat generation exceeds heat shedding capabilities, 210, 230, boilover. So freeing up the grill will not be evidenced in lower engines temps typically, but rather an expanded operating envelope (load, grade, temp, elevation, bigger tires, ...). The tranny however is not thermostatically regulated in the stock condition, so additional airflow is evidenced by temp changes.

masterp2, You know I'm going to have to quit making you look so damn smart! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif JJ

There must be something bad wrong with my truck. It runs between 195 & 200 on the long 6% grades at 65 MPH in 5th gear with my 10K pound Wildcat in tow. Once in awhile the EGT will go up and I have to downshift to forth. The fan will cycle on and off but the water and trans temp never go over 200. Later! Frank http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Frankly Frankhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif since you are on the LLY site and you drive a LB7 ...


Thanks for reminding us of how well the LB7 tows at low operating temps. Watch those injectors baby!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif JJ

How did I get there I thought I was here. Later! Frank



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