hey i just installed my 4" warpspeed, it wasn't too hard, just gettting it to go straight would have gone right through the rear shock, i kicked it to the middle a little at the pipe that i had to cut which helped so that it now only rubs a little, did anybody else have this problem. also the hanger/clamp conecting the down pipe to the first pipe didn't have anyplace to hang off of, and the hanger that just clamps around the cut pip didn't have a bend on the hanger and it sits kinda funny, if looking towards the front of the vehicle the clamp is attached to the rubber hanger on the right side but on some peoples pics i think it was attatched on the left, is that what i screwed up on, cuz that seemed to be the best fit,into the muffler other than the fact it rubs the shock. I wish they had had a little more detailed (idiot proff) instructions. i'm gunna go try and get pics right now, i kinda suck with ther whole pics to computer thing but i'll figure it out.

hey abercromby, that's kinda why i suggested getting it professionally installed. they had to heat up the hangar to bend it so no rub. if i recall they had to cut a small piece off one of the pipes so it would go in right. good luck Ed

i must have missed that part about maybe bending the tube myself, cuz then i might have considered profesional install. other than that it was very simple, i finished it within a few hours, with taking out battery and inner fender and putting back in taking about 1 of those hours, so it wasn't really too bad for the money i saved. the rubbing isn't really that bad right now, there isn't too much pressure on the shock, it just lifts the rubber coil thing a little, but doesn't expose the hydrolic. I'm going to attack it again this weekend with a buddy to get it away from the shock because i found when i would try spinning one pipe, others would move to because i put them all together and then tightened from the turbo back. So if anyone plans on doing it themselves, i definatly recommond another hand, they won't be doing much a lot of the time, but when you need them they will save you a good half to one hour of fighting and swearing.

it wasn't the tube they bent it was one of the hangars. if i recall my install at midas was 160.00 which saved a goddam frigging helluva alot o swearing. as well as cut knuckles. some things i won't take on but congrats for going at it.

ya, i'm doing my schooling for apprenticship right now so i'm trying to save my money, plus i'm trying to do as much as i can right now myself because i like learning about how these things work. i'm also only 20 so i have the ****y mindset that i can take on anything:D, even if i can't haha. I thoroughly enjoyed taking my new sawsall to the old beat up exhaust and taking it out, cuz it made it seem like i was really doing something important for the whole outcome of the truck and allowing the other upgrades i've put in, reach more towards their full potential. i do have one question though about the one clamp hanger taht attaches to the rubber hanger right before the muffler, this was the one that wasn't bent and had to be put on with the nuts facing up(unlike the others which were all down). if i was looking to the front of the vehicle it held the pipe on the right side of the hanger with the straight rod going through the rubber from right to left. is this the way other people are. because i'm thinking, that this is what is causing my problem.

Try calling Warp Speed. They might be able to help you. Thanks, Jerod.

ya, i'm an idiot, i keep thinking about doing that past 5 and then forgetting again when they are ope:p:

don't call yourself a idiot around here, it will be used against you. in a humous way thought.

so whens the injector replacement?

hahaha, couldn't care less what people think, just being honest, i really shoulda called them. are u asking me when my injector replacment is comming

Hmmm it sounds like you might have done something a little wrong. Mine just touches the rear shock boot, I certainly didn't have to "kick it" to get it to line up.

As far as the hangers go, you know that there are specific hangers for specific locations, because they are all a little different. Going from memory, because I'm not going to go out and crawl under my truck right now, if you are looking from front to back all the hangers on the truck will hang on the left side of the exhaust.

As far as what you're describing with the hanger by the muffler. I can't figure that one out without seeing a pic or looking at my own.

It sounds like you've got something just a little messed up that has caused the whole thing to run off line and that's causing your problem. You know the cat delete pipe or the pipe you cut is offset and by turning it, it changes how things run.

The easiest way to make sure things are lining up is to do the following.

1. Hang the down pipe and first section of pipe.
2. Hang the muffler and tailpipe.
3. Measure the distance between the 2 points and cut the remaining section of pipe to fit. This is also where you can verify that things are lining up and turn the pipes as needed.
4. Connect the last section of pipe, tigthen everything up and you're done.

The more I think about it, I think you need to turn your pipes a little and that will bring things away from the shock and make them hang better.

Dave

I have to agree with Dave12. When I installed my Warpspeed exhaust on my previous 6.5, I ran into a similar condition as you. After about 5 minutes of twisting pipe sections, PRESTO!!! The exhaust snaked right over the cross members with about 3/8" clearance. My problem might have stemmed from starting at the front and working my way back, instead of doing front, back, THEN middle...

IMHO, the W/S exhaust is a great piece. You could spend more money if you wanted, but I do not believe there is a significant difference in quality with any other system...

Regards,

Call Dallas @ Warpspeed, he will help you. I got the pleasure to have mine installed there and paid him. I was on vacation in that area. I think the key is the pipe that goes to the muffler. That is the adjustable one (you can cut it). Then everything should be perfect.

i did have to cut that and i turned it so the bend kicked it away from the shock, but it still rubbs just bellow the rubber shock cover. i had thought something was wrong with the peices i put in but i did follow the instructions, and the only two different clamps were the one that attaches the down pipe to the first 4" pipe, and the one that just hangs and has a straight hanger on it. when i just had the muffler in the hanger towards the back of the muffler, and i held it up to get the cut measurement is when i noticed that if the muffler was to sit parallel to the lines of the truck, that the shock would go right through the passenger side of the pipe exiting the muffler, so that really had nothing to do with what i had previously done. from what i've seen of others exhausts is that on chrisk1500 his hanger that connected to the straight hanger which does not clamp and pipes together, the stock hanger was welded to the side of his frame. he has a short box extended cab 1500 if i remember correctly and i think dave12 you have the same. mine is a little different where the hanger is bolted onto a cross beam on top and hangs down. it was much further to the driver side than chris's looked. which is why i put my hanger on the passenger side

I didn't do my own install but I remember the mechanic saying that he had to bend one of the hangers a little bit in order to get the pipes to line up perfectly...

My truck is an ext cab short box 1500. I'm sure all the hangers start out in the same location but who knows where they have been moved to or what has possibly been done to them over the years. On mine either the hanger on the tailpipe was welded in the wrong location or the hanger on my truck was moved, because it didn't line up at all. There was another set of holes in the frame rail that I moved the hanger to and everything lined up perfect after that.

I know on mine I really had to make sure the muffler hanger was turned right up into the hanger on the truck. It kept wanting to slide back out. Once I had it turned up into the hanger and everything was tight, it stayed in place just fine. This is where an extra set of hands would have been useful. Not to mention if you had it up on a lift how much easier it would be.

I don't think it's any secret, and the manufacturers of these systems say it, that occasionally hangers need to be bent or modified slightly.

Also remember that Chris had his done at a muffler shop, so they might have found it easier to use their own hangers to get things to fall in place how they wanted.

Dave

I've heard the suggestion to do the turbo downpipe yourself and then take it to a shop to have the rest done. It's going to roar like an abused lion and probably break 15 different noise laws, but there aren't any other problems with driving it with just the downpipe are there?

I basically did that when I cut out my cat and tried to take it to a local muffler shop to have them weld in a piece of pipe, so it basically ended just past the stock flange on the end of the downpipe. VERY noisey but still driveable. Turns out the *uckin muffler shop wouldn't eliminate the cat, even though they said they would over the phone, so I had to go home and get it and have them weld it back in.

So to answer your question, yes you can, I just wouldn't do it for very long.

Dave

I just took some pics of what the hanger that i think might be in the wrong spot, and where the exhaust rubs the shock

Can you get a wider shot of that hanger? (less zoom ... let me see more of the surroundings). Maybe a douple different angles, too.

I actually sorta know about this stuff.

Can't you just remove the shock?;)

Can't you just remove the shock?;)


:funnypost ROFL!

I just took some pics of what the hanger that i think might be in the wrong spot, and where the exhaust rubs the shock

In the last picture, we can see where your exhaust is possibly rubbing the body. The WSP exhaust did the same thing on my old truck and others here. To fix this, you have to remove the factory tailpipe hanger on the truck and drop it down the next lower hole in the frame and the exhaust will hang much better. I believe that chrisK1500 had to do the same thing. It must be an unwritten step in the WSP instructions!

Regards,

i haven't really had any problems with body rubbing, infact i kinda like it close to the body as it is(without touching of course) because i like to go offroad once in a while, and the more clearance the better. It also looks a lot closer to the body in the pic than it really is, probably from the angle

i haven't really had any problems with body rubbing, infact i kinda like it close to the body as it is (without touching of course)

OK. Not going there. Too much information.:eek:

OK. Not going there. Too much information.:eek:
haahhaha, sorry sometimes i get a little too into my big girl;)

Ab,
Mine ended up closer to the spare tire than the shock. I think it's all in the angle of the pipes going togeather. The one thing to do is get it all in the right position BEFORE tightening any of the clamps!
I wished I could have used band clamps. I don't trust muffler clamps, so I put a self tapping screw at each questionable joint.
The end result is well worth the pain. What doesn't kill us makes us stronger. My gargage has a link to a vid at YouTube of my trucks exhaust sound. Good luck