I recently pulled my motor out and had the injector pump rebuilt. I also put a new water and fuel pump on. Also had all the brackets, intake, valve covers, and oil pan powdercoated and put new gaskets everywhere. When I was getting the stuff powder coated, I got rid of the glow plug sensor that sits on the back of the motor on the drivers side and plugged the hole. I didn't think I would need it since I hooked up a manual glow plug switch. I also didnt put the High Idle solenoid back on because I didnt think it was working. But now my Cold timing Advance wire isnt getting power any more. Did that glow plug sensor have something to do with the Timing advance? I thought it was the 2 prong sensor on the back of the motor on the Passenger side. Or could it be that I dont have the High Idle solenoid on any more?

The cold timing advance and high idle both go through the same switch. The switch does have a tendency to go bad. I would not remove it because you need both the high idle and advance on cold start.

So the 2 prong switch on the back of the motor on the passenger side is the one I would need to replace then?

That is correct.

I was checking the plug an noticed it had come off from me pulling on the wiring harness. I plugged it Back in but it still didnt work. I then noticed there is a another 2 prong switch. The one I plugged it into is on the side of the motor close to the exhaust manifold. The other is in the same place as the glow plug controller but on the opposite side. It looks like it goes into the cooling block off plate. Is that the one its supposed to be plugged into?

You got me stumped on that one. I don't have anything like that on my 6.2L.

On Both the motors I have, they are both on there.

Unichevy,


Great choice on the axles.

I got out my manual and took off the air cleaner on my 6.2L. I found the connector you are talking about. The book says it is the fuel heater(????) 110 watt. I dont know but I found the same information in two places in my book. This is the Helm shop manual by the way. You might try jumpering across the connector for the cold advance and see if the idle solonoid gets 12 volts. you do know that the solonoid does not have enough pull the engage the fast idle but when you push on the accelerator the solonoid will hold the fast idle?????





Hope this helps


Edited by: ag4gt

Hook it back up like it ought to be and avoid all the problems of re-engineering. You'll have a better running vehicle.