Here's a couple of pics of what i've done. Is this correct?


Before bump


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/921_Beforebump.jpg


After Bump


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/BZE_afterbump4.jpg


Please help.

You moved it the right direction. It could go a little further, maybe.


Did you start it?

Thanks for the speedy response QM. Yes i started it and took it for a run, there was no change in performance at all, thats why i'm wondering if i did it right or not. Damn gasket came off under that cap and was a real pain to get back in place, no room in there.


Are both those parts suppose to move together, moved them about 1mm as per instructions, about the width of a screwdriver blade.

I think you did it right.


I would bump it another 1mm and see how it idles after that( rough idle= you've gone too far).

So after putting on 4" exhaust and doing the optic bump i have no noticable increase in 0-60 times, what gives here? Vacuum from pump is 23" hg, vacum at waste gate is 13" hg, no codes! Whats stopping this thing from going? Can here the turbo whine hard around 2000 rpm.

'What's stopping this thing from going' You ask?


In a Word...


Re-Flash...

I think you've actually taken it a little too far and are losing power from too much advance and going out of the pumping range of the pump. You need to go about halfway between where you started and where you are. Put the lock plate flush on this drivers side with the optic, your just past it right now.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Did you get a chance to change that again CR??

You can turn up the boost but guage it first, EGT during your pull that blew the head gasket would have told you to stop.

Did you get a chance to change that again CR??


Yes i just finished changing it again, bumped it back almost to where it was, no change in performance, maybe a little more black smoke now but not sure until tomorrow on the way to work.


Why can't i get better performance with the new exhaust and optic bump? TDG figured i went to far, QM figured not far enough? What is it?


Could i have 1 dead cylinder, ie: plugged injector? and not notice it, it runs smooth at idle and seems smooth on acceleration, just nothing there? Good whine from the turbo. New fuel filter, new air filter, lift pump fills everything when i changed filter. I'm just not getting it here?


Bumped back


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/748_bumpback21.jpg


QM you may want to lighten this image too.


(ok)Edited by: quantum mechanic

Yeah, your basically back to stock now. Its a very very fine adjustment, a little means a lot of change.

L-56 EGR is tuned for L-56 performance level - anything more and exhaust pressure becomes greater than calibrated EGR valve spring tension.


Allows EGR bypass over PCM control.........

L-56 EGR is tuned to make emissions happy, CR's truck is an L-65 and doesn't have an EGR.


If you had a dead cylinder, you'd know it, white smoke, and SES Light for cylinder balance fault.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

L-56 EGR is tuned for L-56 performance level - anything more and exhaust pressure becomes greater than calibrated EGR valve spring tension.


Allows EGR bypass over PCM control.........





Was that for me? I have no EGR.

CR, Your 95 is EGR, Right?


Did EGR play a role in cooking his block pulling that travel trailer through the mountains?


TDG wanted you to line up the two squares on the right side.Edited by: quantum mechanic

My fault gmctd, my sig line was wrong and i've corrected it now, oops.


Yes QM my 95 is EGR, i don't think it played a role in cooking it, that was my own stupidity, just let it get to hot and you know what its like when your near the top and going to go down the other side... it'll cool off. Just stayed in it to long, good thing its only the gaskets really, i could have done alot worse to it. The pistons are minor, its not going to be a race truck. Maybe the 2000 though....lol.


I may make 1 more attempt at the optic bump and put it between where it is and where it was but its starting to look worthless to me right now. JMO. Does anyone else have a good pic of where it works good at? TDG?

I'll post a picture of where I'm running mine.

Put the lockplate just shy of flush with the side of the sensor, when you first moved it, you went past it and the second time went back to its original location. Try and go right in the middle of those two extremes.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/BZE_afterbump41.jpg


1:1 is pretty much stock, 2:1 very mild gain, 4:1 is the limit, after that you may see loss of power.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Am i getting any better?


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/9C2_Bumpagain3.jpg


Haven't taken it for a snort yet..

perfect, let us know how you like that. Should be a change just revvin her up in the driveway.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Well... in a couple of words here.......


zero, ziltch, nadda, zippo, nothin, #@&%!...... aarrghhh!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif

More smoke? anything? If there's smoke you got the fuel, just need air to match it.

Maybe a little more smoke on hard acceleration... MAYBE.


Do you have a private email? I tried to send a file to you but it came back on the email you gave me a few days ago. My email should be listed in my profile.

Just how slow is it?


Any chance the transmission is slipping so it can't put any more power to the ground?


Bypass the wastegate solenoid and take it for a test drive (vacuum straight to the turbo)


If you can't feel a difference in the power then something must be wrong. (if you don't let off after about 10 seconds or so, you will set a code and loose power till it is restarted)

Whatnot.


I think the power is getting to the ground, brake stand will spin the wheels. (especially since i noticed both axle seals are leaking but thats another day).


0 - 60 in 15 seconds, didn't change with exhaust and didn't change with bump, no boost guage but you can sure here the turbo whine even before the exhaust upgrade. Times are run in 'D' everytime, but there might be a shift issue, hense me wanting to email TDG a file. ( 0 - 60 in real time, with cool exhaust sound...lol)

TPatton@abilenediesel.com


Should be able to reach me there, last I checked for some reason I could recieve emails but not respond.


I'm really dumbfounded that your not seeing results. I can guaruntee you 100%, that what you did increased your fuel delivery and I've seen for myself the difference it makes on other trucks. Any change in startability, engine/exhaust/turbo sound?


I'm sorry, did you say, 0-60 run, with sound?? send that puppy!!!Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Even if you have the boost working like it is supposed to you will only be getting about 6 PSI.


If you bypass it you should be able to feel the difference starting out. (you can just reverse the 2 lines at the solenoid to bypass it)

Or just run the vac line direct to the actuator.


I think I'm running close to this level of vacuum now with the resistor situaton resolved. I'm peaking at 15 psi when I peg it. That's all you'll should see with it run direct.

Mine will do a lot more than that.

I think I might crank the turbomaster way down tomorrow and see what it will do. My gauge only goes to 15 but I don't have any resistors in the map right now so I can use the scanner.


All I know is that it felt weak when I backed it off to 14 psihttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Just reverse the lines at the selonoid? Thats it, that easy... ummmm... how long could i drive that before throwing codes or going to limp?


TDG the file is sending, just not sure if i'll get it back here. Let you know in a sec...

You can drive indefinitely with it like that, just can't keep your foot in it for too long, like 12-15 seconds long, varies by truck and how much boost your making.

Just let off after about 10 seconds and it shouldn't set a code.


If it does set a code, it should clear itself after a certain number of starts after you the lines back.

I'm glad the JC whitney guage I have goes past 20 psi boost (more than enough) and 30 psi vacuum. At first I thought I'd never need the vac function, then measured the vac pump and solenoid with it. Edited by: quantum mechanic

Sorry guy's i didn't leave, was just trying to email TDG, something must be wrong with his email. I will try reversing the vac lines tomorrow.

Vac lines reversed and drove for 30 miles, 0-60 unchanged. Left my foot in it for the 15 secs +, no codes.


Prior vac tests showed 23 in hg coming to selonoid and 13 at turbo, checked the wastgate diaphram by pulling the hose and moving the gate with thumb over diaphram inlet and appears to be just fine with no leaks in diaphram.


Suggestions?

Put the hose from the vacuum directly to the actuator. Take your WG solenoid out of the equation.


Just think how different you'd approach this if you knew what boost you were making. When you switched the lines it should have jumped up to 15 psi or there's something wrong there.


Being able to read what's going on is invaluable. I didn't realize how little boost I had 'till I guaged it.

QM, I don't dissagree with you in the slightest, but with my busy work and hardly ever get time to get to a shop i try to do the best i can here in the field, boost guage is number 1 for me to get next, then pyro, i will be making a 3 hour journey this weekend pulling a 10,000 lb trailer and don't want to cook this thing just yet. When i installed the exhaust on a day off it was in a local shop, nearest place to me to buy guages and stuff is an hour away from there.


I may get a guage later today if i can get away for a couple hours here, where's the best place to install it on the intake?

You should have really noticed the difference.


When you put the lines back, was one of them holding vacuum still? If not, you might have a leaky line or actuator.


You could run a new line directly to the wastegate actuator from the pump and see what it does.


You did check the airfilter didn't you?

CR,


I mail ordered mine. It took 5 days, just about the time it was off my mind it showed up.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/ZF9_boosttap.jpg


This is where I might tap one in the future. You can see a dark stain where my current tap is leaking.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/DZF_pyrotap.jpg


I retapped the pyro into the inboard boss. Best place, I'm sure.


Edited by: quantum mechanic

Got a little silicone happy it looks like there QM. And I think your truck has the same broken temp sender on the water jacket as mine does.


I mail ordered my gauge from Banks, I got one of their Dyna Flow mufflers too, but once I got it I realized that there's no way to fit it under such a short wheel base, the thing was HUGE! 3" inlet/outlet and about 15"x36".Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Does the SES light come one when you are starting it? If not, it might have a problem and someone pulled the bulb before selling it.

You don't see oil coming out around those bolt holes anymore. The center two are stripped and rtv sealed in.

Who was that post for Whatnot? I'm assuming it was in reference to my broken Temp Sender. just the plastic base is broken so it doesn't latch in place, pins are still there, scanner shows computer still gets a reading from it and my SES light works, but is not on.

Oops, I should have been more clear. I was just trying to think of a reason CanadianRigger can't get anymore power out of his truck and that came to mind.

He ment CR,


He may have an SES light and no bulb.

ah, my mistake ;)

QM


Where did you put your EGR pyro at. That must be pre turbo right. What temps do you see and where's the danger range. If It was post turbo would it read an avg. temp better ? It would seem that mounted there it's reading would be more right side influanced than a balanced reading. Just asking getting ready to install my and looking for input.

That's just below the turbo on the neck of the exhaust manifold, as gmctd says, like the factory intended location. I think I'm in the right spot. The left bank has all the heat. Just driving around I see 300 deg F, down the highway I see 450-650 deg F and pegging it I see 900-1000 deg F. danger comes at ~1200 deg F as soon as you let your foot out of it temps drop.


after the turbo is a lower reading. you could be making 1200 and see 1000.

That's just below the turbo on the neck of the exhaust manifold, as gmctd says, like the factory intended location. I think I'm in the right spot. The left bank has all the heat. Just driving around I see 300 deg F, down the highway I see 450-650 deg F and pegging it I see 900-1000 deg F. danger comes at ~1200 deg F as soon as you let your foot out of it temps drop.


after the turbo is a lower reading. you could be making 1200 and see 1000.





OK how bout a pic a little further away, can it be seen from above?


looks like a great spot just makeing sure

Yes, new air filter. I have a service throttle soon light (not on), pic of an engine (not on) but notice nothing that says SES or service engine soon. I ran a hose across the rubber plug from the selonoid so vac would go straight to turbo, couldn't move the waste gate actuator but didnt drive it like that. I did notice that even bypassed like that the actuator on the turbo would leak off in about 3 seconds, is this normal or can someone start their truck and see how long it takes to bleed off when you shut down?


Also TDG when i sit and idle now for awhile and rev it up to clean it out it will tend to overspeed for just a second and go back to normal? Extra fuel now?


Boost and pyro and 3 guage piller mount will be in tomorrow a.m. I've got a couple days off now to figure this out before i go up north for the winter.


QM, how about mounting the boost sender in the bottom of the upper intake as i seen someone else on here do, just can't remember who.


I thiink i'll be mounting the pyro in the elbow out the turbo as i've heard some horror stories from the shop i'm getting them about broken tips.... whew.....thats enough for now, be back on in 1.5 hrs to see what you guy's say.


Thanks for your help.

The vacuum will be gone as soon as you shut the engine off except when you have the lines reversed. The vacuum to the turbo side is vented to atmosphere when closed (no power). the one the pump side isn't. When you reverse them, there is no vent so it holds it for a long time if it doesn't leak.


I would assume that the picture of the engine is the service engnine soon light. Does it come on when you first turn the key on?

Do you mean mount the boost tap in the bottom of the round part of the intake? That would work. kennedy claimed to prefer the round part. I was thinking the side of the intake might open the mouth of the tap to the flow of the psi in the intake and give a quicker reading.


Putting the pyro in the turndown? or downpipe? 1000 deg might mean 1200 before turbo, or so I hear.

QM, how about mounting the boost sender in the bottom of the upper intake as i seen someone else on here do, just can't remember who.





I drilled and tapped the back runner closest to the driver, With the intake open inside pressure will be equal in all directions. At least thats what the Air Force pneudraulic courses taught me.

CR, that 'overspeed' your talking about, do you mean when you rev it up, let your foot off the gas and engine speed drops to ~1000 and suddenly you get a surge of fuel and slowly settles down to L.I.? A lot of trucks do this, the PCM is searching for the right fuel quantity to get idle speed right. It will be a little more exaggerated with the increase in fuel.


Bow, You have given me an idea that I'm going to try this weekend. I'm going to remove my MAP sensor and drill/tap holes on the main intake manifold. This way the boost sensor will pick up pressure actually in the manifold after it has passed the 90 degree turn and sqaush into the intake. Putting it after this restriction should lower boost readings and give me more boost. I'm also going to try and relocate the IAT sensor to the main manifold as well, temps should be slighty lower after the air is allowed to expand a little in the manifold, which means less fuel cut back. Thanks!

bow,


Look with a flash light just below where the turbo meets the exhaust. You have to pull the turboside exhaust to do it here. There's another boss on the opposite side of the exhaust neck same spot. You might be able to do this one with it on.

I'm also going to try and relocate the IAT sensor to the main manifold as well, temps should be slighty lower after the air is allowed to expand a little in the manifold, which means less fuel cut back. Thanks!


Great post your results. On my caprice with the LT1 engine I was able to bypass the IAT making the computer think the air temp was always 50 degress. This was done with, you ready for this, another resistor installed in place of the IAT sensor. Just unplug and connect the resistor use tape to hold in place and seems to work ok to me. this is just a thought, but if we knew the values of the IAT sensor in range and where the sweet spot is for fuel delivery then it might just be helpful you think

Computer gets upset when it doesn't see what it considers 'realistic' temp changes. I tried just taking it out and plugging the hole so it would read underhood temps instead of intake, SES light. What you could do is put a resistor inline to bias the reading though. On a gasser its used with fuel/air mixture calculations. On a diesel, its just monitored to keep temps from getting too hot. As long as it doesn't go over...I forget the exact value 140F or so, it doesn't cut your fuel back any.

My manual has a list of resistor values and corresponding IAT values from -40 to 200 deg.


TDG, make an intercooler and put your sensors on the cool side.

I think I'll leave mine like it is, just relocated, haven't felt the fuel get cutback for a while now.


I'm too broke and don't have enough spare time for the intercooler.


But what do you think? Will relocating the sensors make any change? Small I'll admit, but I'm all about the 'little here, little there' approach.


I really have to get on to my upper intake replacement project. I want to build one with a large plenum and no pancaking of the airflow.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

I think I'll leave mine like it is, just relocated, haven't felt the fuel get cutback for a while now.


But what do you think? Will relocating the sensors make any change? Small I'll admit, but I'm all about the 'little here, little there' approach.





You'll leave your what like it is relocated? explain more or again plz. Cause I, like you, like the little here and little there approach.

no resistors, just moving the sensor.

If you were running a bigger upper plenum then, yes, you should tap the sensors into that "space" but I would think the gains wouldn't be noticed on the stock unit.


If you want the MAP to read less boost, resist it.


Edited by: quantum mechanic

where you move it too or is that a plan in work at this time

The main body of the intake manifold, rather than the upper one.

off topic for one minute. QM, the 6.2/6.5 Forum Moderator, when do I see more stars and go to an addict instead of just a fanatic?


OK enuff of off topic stuff back to to really good stuff

cool send pic when you get it done plz. Edited by: bowtie

you get your third star after a few hundred or 5 I can't remember. You choose fanatic as your group when you signed up.

CR, that 'overspeed' your talking about, do you mean when you rev it up, let your foot off the gas and engine speed drops to ~1000 and suddenly you get a surge of fuel and slowly settles down to L.I.? A lot of trucks do this, the PCM is searching for the right fuel quantity to get idle speed right. It will be a little more exaggerated with the increase in fuel





When i rev it up after its been sitting slobbering for 15 min's or so i take my foot off and it jumps up in rpm and then settles back to idle.


As to the selonoid i had the lines reversed when i shut down the engine, vacuum went away just as fast as them hooked up proper?


Also, from the discussion here can someone show me a pic of where the best spot will be for the boost guage?


Was thinking of putting pyro in the turbo elbow not the down pipe, i don't even know if it will fit there.


One more thing..


I can't get the 0 - 60 file to upload to my website so if you want to see it you'll have to give me a valid email, just don't forget to turn up the volume!

Here's where I suggest, requires removing the plenum, drilling and tapping a hole.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/984_engine2.JPG


Note: Yes this picture was taken pre-dual breathers, they're installed now.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

I can't make it out.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/984_engine21.jpg


Is that a rubber hose coming off the water crossover/ heater hose outlet? Edited by: quantum mechanic

just an 90 elbow with nut ferrel and plastic line in.

Oh ya, 1 more thing, seems to have more diesel rattle also since the bump. What exactly makes them rattle? Injectors? High compression?

Ok, got the pyro and boost guage today, also picked up a 3 guage piller mount. Also picked up some pretty stuff for then engine, will post once installed. Just need to decide where to install them now. Still haven't figured out where the power is in this unit but its there somewhere.


TDG did you get that file in the email?

Detonation clatter is what your hearing. Thats the sound of an atomized cloud of diesel fuel exploding in the chamber. Vaporized diesel has a burn rate that is multiples faster than gasoline, where gasoline burns, diesel literally explodes so fast it sounds like a knock. Not all diesels make the same sound due to differences in combustion chamber dimenions, injector location and spray pattern. So if your truck sounds like there's marbles in there bouncing off the pistons, thats a good thing. The optic bump adds an ever so slight advance to your timing which will make the clatter a little more pronounced than before. The advanced timing also helps completely combust oil vapors. They burn slower than diesel, it ignites them earlier so they have more time to burn in the chamber.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Is that a rubber hose coming off the water crossover/ heater hose outlet?


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/491_engine2.JPG


Yeah, I had a heater hose leak and replaced the stock half aluminum pipe setup for 3/4" in and 5/8" out of the heater core. Works great so far and hasn't leaked a drop. My '94 didn't come with the fancy quick release fitting on the crossover, just a plain one.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Yeah,


The quick connect is one removal away from leaking at all times. I've replaced two aluminum/rubber heater hoses ($75 stealer price) and a couple of the plastic grommets.

I would like to know if i move this sensor up and put a 'T' under it and then put my boost guage onto the T will it affect the sensor readings? This is the IAT sensor right?


Yes this pick is from the old 95, my 2000 has no egr, just using it to demonstrate.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/7B7_egrintake.jpg

I wouldn't do that.


I did it like that on mine at first and it takes the sensor out of the airflow. It is really slow and reads way high. It put the temperature reading high enough to pull back fuel when it shouldn't have.