skyhook8
09-04-2004, 12:26 PM
Warning: Long post but useful to DIY'ers.
I just did my 2004 Silverado 2500HD. I took my time and did the research and planning beforehand and then worked through the issues. Right now it's working flawless. I installed a Compustar 1WFM-S (One Way FM Start Only) and used the Trilogix GMDL-BP combo unit. I paid $49 for the Compustar and $52 for the GMDL-BP. I also bought some 3M T-Taps from Fry's Electronics for around $10. Tools used were:
Multimeter
Propane Torch + solder
Wire Stripper & Crimper
Wire Cutters
Assorted Small Sockets & Extensions
Battery Powered Screw Driver
Alligator Clip Test Wires
Electrician's tape
I found through this board and others how easy it is to remove the dash pieces to get to the internals. I soldered all of the high current wires (14 gauge) and used t-taps on the rest.
As far as the Compustar's quality is concerned I've read many posts from people who both loved and hated it. My experience was that the problems I experienced were all due to a faulty install and once the problems were cleared it worked flawlessly.
Before beginning I removed the panels and identified all of the connection points. I also created a spreadsheet (link below) which mapped all of the neccessary connections between the Compustar, the GMDL-BP, and the vehicle. That helped tremendously.
I tried to use my regular soldering gun but found that I couldn't get the wires hot enough. I broke out my generic propane torch, turned the flame down and used a metal plate as a shield anytime I couldn't get the solder point clear of other wires. I also made sure to cut back enough insulation so that it wouldn't get burned from the large flame then taped it well afterward. The flame is much hotter than the solder gun because I was able to get good solder flow after only a few seconds.
After getting all the wires connected I made a quick test with the door locks and the engine start, proclaimed the job done, and began mounting, tying back wires, and replacing dash pieces. Once I got almost everything back together I ran another test to make sure that I hadn't disturbed any connections. I had also loosened my ground so I was curious as to whether that would upset the configuration. That was when I discovered that there were major problems. Here is a list of the problems at that point:
<UL>
<LI>Unit was in valet mode and wasn't responding to remote</LI>
<LI>12 Volt constant to the GMDL-BP - wasn't really constant so it was resetting after every start</LI>
<LI>Accessory wire not connected - AC blower wouldn't come on with remote start</LI>
<LI>Parking light not connected - Error codes are shown through parking lights so I had to use a multimeter on the output to view codes</LI>
<LI>Foot brake shutdown not connected - after remote start and then using key motor would not turn off</LI>[/list]
You know, it's difficult enough when you have one item misconfigured but when you have multiple problems it can be very confusing and frustrating. I was convinced that the Compustar and the GMDL-BP were junk.
I had to break from the process a couple of times after I encountered the problems and that gave me some time to think through the issues and also to make a couple of calls to Compustar and Trilogix. I called Compustar about the unit not shutting off and found out about the foot brake input. I called Trilogix to find out about how to reset the unit to default. Both were stupid questions with simple answers. I was only on the phone a few seconds each time so I don't feel too bad about wasting their resources.
What really threw me was having the unit in valet mode and not having the constant power to the GMDL-BP. The other items were simple errors with simple symptoms. Once I got the unit out of valet mode I was able to get it to respond to lock/unlock. Then, and after taking a break to think, I remembered that I hadn't connected the power source for the GMDL-BP to the same large 14 gauge wire that I had for the Compustar. I had found
I just did my 2004 Silverado 2500HD. I took my time and did the research and planning beforehand and then worked through the issues. Right now it's working flawless. I installed a Compustar 1WFM-S (One Way FM Start Only) and used the Trilogix GMDL-BP combo unit. I paid $49 for the Compustar and $52 for the GMDL-BP. I also bought some 3M T-Taps from Fry's Electronics for around $10. Tools used were:
Multimeter
Propane Torch + solder
Wire Stripper & Crimper
Wire Cutters
Assorted Small Sockets & Extensions
Battery Powered Screw Driver
Alligator Clip Test Wires
Electrician's tape
I found through this board and others how easy it is to remove the dash pieces to get to the internals. I soldered all of the high current wires (14 gauge) and used t-taps on the rest.
As far as the Compustar's quality is concerned I've read many posts from people who both loved and hated it. My experience was that the problems I experienced were all due to a faulty install and once the problems were cleared it worked flawlessly.
Before beginning I removed the panels and identified all of the connection points. I also created a spreadsheet (link below) which mapped all of the neccessary connections between the Compustar, the GMDL-BP, and the vehicle. That helped tremendously.
I tried to use my regular soldering gun but found that I couldn't get the wires hot enough. I broke out my generic propane torch, turned the flame down and used a metal plate as a shield anytime I couldn't get the solder point clear of other wires. I also made sure to cut back enough insulation so that it wouldn't get burned from the large flame then taped it well afterward. The flame is much hotter than the solder gun because I was able to get good solder flow after only a few seconds.
After getting all the wires connected I made a quick test with the door locks and the engine start, proclaimed the job done, and began mounting, tying back wires, and replacing dash pieces. Once I got almost everything back together I ran another test to make sure that I hadn't disturbed any connections. I had also loosened my ground so I was curious as to whether that would upset the configuration. That was when I discovered that there were major problems. Here is a list of the problems at that point:
<UL>
<LI>Unit was in valet mode and wasn't responding to remote</LI>
<LI>12 Volt constant to the GMDL-BP - wasn't really constant so it was resetting after every start</LI>
<LI>Accessory wire not connected - AC blower wouldn't come on with remote start</LI>
<LI>Parking light not connected - Error codes are shown through parking lights so I had to use a multimeter on the output to view codes</LI>
<LI>Foot brake shutdown not connected - after remote start and then using key motor would not turn off</LI>[/list]
You know, it's difficult enough when you have one item misconfigured but when you have multiple problems it can be very confusing and frustrating. I was convinced that the Compustar and the GMDL-BP were junk.
I had to break from the process a couple of times after I encountered the problems and that gave me some time to think through the issues and also to make a couple of calls to Compustar and Trilogix. I called Compustar about the unit not shutting off and found out about the foot brake input. I called Trilogix to find out about how to reset the unit to default. Both were stupid questions with simple answers. I was only on the phone a few seconds each time so I don't feel too bad about wasting their resources.
What really threw me was having the unit in valet mode and not having the constant power to the GMDL-BP. The other items were simple errors with simple symptoms. Once I got the unit out of valet mode I was able to get it to respond to lock/unlock. Then, and after taking a break to think, I remembered that I hadn't connected the power source for the GMDL-BP to the same large 14 gauge wire that I had for the Compustar. I had found