I just bought these to lift up the front. Now I need to figure out how to replace the originals with these green keys. Any help from you experts out there? Any special tools? Any pictures? Thanks alot


Ben

Ben,


I found this thread a while ago...explains the whole thing.


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13424&PN=1


Tom http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pig.gif

I just found this link too.


http://homepage.mac.com/darketernal/TBT.html


I think this sounds relatively easy with the right tools of course.


Ben

Well did you get it done? Where are the pics? How long did it take you?

I will do it on Monday. I have to work tomorrow. I hope I got the right tool => a 3 arm puller instead of a 2. I think that should work. I will get some pics as well.


Ben

I would recommend using the largest puller you can find. I tried w/ a 5 ton and it only allowed me to take the stock ones out. The puller I used was also a two or three arm style, and you will probably find that it will work best in the two are set up. It didn't have the stiffness or stability to crank the bars enough to install the green keys. I ended up reinstalling the stock ones and having my alignment shop do it. Sucks taking it all apart only to have to put it back together w/ the old stuff.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

i did it with a 7-ton 2 arm puller. if you go this route i would highly suggest you use a high quality one (mine was a craftsman) i dont think id trust some of the generic ones as its under A LOT of strain puttin the new keys in. also keep clear from directly under the puller cause if it slips like mine did you dont want to be in the way. also i dont think a 3-arm puller would do you any good as there isnt really anywhere for the 3rd arm to clamp to. other than that its really easy and took less than 20minutes. the biggest thing is getting over the fear of turning the ratchet when the puller is making some very scary noises under all of that strain http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pinch.gif! (dont forget the alignment afterwards)

I changed mine out yesterday. Not difficult except one of the T bars wouldn't come loose of the old key. Lots of WD-40 and a 4# hammer persuaded it. The truck now sits ~3.25 in higher and the ride quality is bordering on poor. 315/17 still rubs on rear of right fender, but only at full compression. Around town driving is fine. I don't want to trim the fender, but may still have to.

I changed them today. I eneded up borrowing a 2 arm puller and bent that, so I got ahold of another one and finally got the job done. The bent one was a stout unit but not USA made, the second one was USA brad and was more beefy. It did take me several hours though.


The front end was raised 3" and the ride seems to be a little more bouncy. I was thinking of adding @ 10 washers for a spacer on my shocks.?.? It seems that I did read that here at one time. Any comments.? I will be adding 2" blocks Wed morning and I will post before and after pix. No pix during the process.


Benhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Rock On.gif

either build spacers, stack the poly bushings or use washers, i stacked my bushings (which worked fine) then fab'd some aluminum spacers. if you getting the 'bouncy bouncy' feeling, you'll know what im talking about if you do, you should turn them down some. 3in. is a lot, i was able to get 2 1/2 seemed to be the sweet spot but anything over that and i was bouning all over the place.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/A62_truck_003.jpg


Above was before and bottom is after.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/truck_007.jpg Edited by: blnagel

Hey Ben, nice job. I've been researching it myself, and had Eric change out my keys.


Here's thread that describes the spacers:


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9925&PN=1


I added 15 washers per side to the top. Cant find the M10x1.5x50 10.9 hardness fully threaded bolts i need to space out the bottom mount.


Now, if anyone could tell me if these would work http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/part.asp?pid=C135&c=0&e=0&cat=4&hid=419AB50176


we'd have the shock problem fixed.


Tom http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pig.gif


ON EDIT: I decided to buy the above spacers from year one and see if they'll work. I suspect they are for SAE threads and not metric, but we'll see....


Edited by: TheBac

I dont know how you can fit 15 washers in. I could only fit 8 per side in. I thought it turned out purty good. Changing those green keys was more of a job (@4 hours) but I think well worth it.


Ben

Ben,


Washers were kind of thin....thats why I used so many. Spaced it up about 3/4-7/8" total.


Eric had the right GM torsion bar tools and a hoist...took him all of 30 minutes total. He's a scary-good mechanic!!!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Tom http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pig.gifEdited by: TheBac

Happy Birthday, Bacon. Live long.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

What to do with the rear shocks. My ride now is VERY rough since adding the 2" blocks. I do have the replacement Bilsteins in and it feels like there is nothing left for them to do since adding the blocks. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif Any ideas?


Ben

Cant find the M10x1.5x50 10.9 hardness fully threaded bolts i need to space out the bottom mount.





Tom,


Try www.boltdepot.com (http://www.boltdepot.com) No kidding they have an awesome selection, are reasonably priced, quick shipping (through UPS) and even threw in a pack of M&M's (my kind of business).


Dennis

Just checked they have a full thread 10x1.5x50 Stainless A-2 (18-8) for 84 cents each, and a partial thread 10x1.5x50 Steel 10-9 for 70 cents each. . . both are hex head.

Incidentally, would unbolting the shock help get the green keys in? They are the limiting factor in the end of travel on the stock suspension, so if you unbolted them, would that allow the suspension to fall more so you would have to put less torque on the key? Then when the key is in, you could put your washers in at the same time and save yourself some trouble. . .


Just a thought,
Dennis

Dennis,


Thanks! Thats one to put in "Favorites"!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


I appreciate your help!


Tom http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pig.gif

You betcha. There are also some fasteners and other stuff at:


https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/index.asp


But since they sent M&M's with the bolts, I'm sticking with boltdepot.com. Brought a tear to my eye when I opened up the box and saw that little packet of goodness in there.


Dennis

Why installing the green keys? 2 inches of lift is the limit IMHO otherwise not enough suspension travel, no comfort, drive line problems etc. 2 inches can be accomplished with the normal keys. I would install a good lift kit for more height. But thats just me.

There are people on this forum believing that a green key lift of the same hight than with the standard keys are making a difference. That has been discussed long ago in another topic already - it does NOT MAKE A DIFFERENCE what shape (or color) that keys has http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Edited by: mahalkita

2in lift over factory setting is normally not possible with stock keys. unless they were backed all the way out to start with, then there may be '2in of adjustment'. also i feel much better about only having the load on half of the torsion bar bolt with the green keys, instead of having the bolt maxed out and stressed with the stock keys. you are correct about the ride and comfort though. anything more than 2inchs, weather stock or purple or green or whatever will kill the suspension travel with out modifications.

This was a good forumhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif