Hello,

Brand new here, and really like these forum's! KTMTalk.com has helped me ALOT with our dirt bikes. Thanks for being here.

So..... I just bought a 1994 GMC Suburban 2500 with a 6.5l (240k mi) auto 4x4. It was an ebay purchase, and I met the seller 1/2 way about 200 miles away in Indy.

Seller claimed that the truck needs nothing (to the best of his knowledge). the guy reeked of diesel fuel, my first sign he's not telling me everything.
I inspect the truck.... return line is leaking at the injector. So I trailer my Jeep home the 200 miles. It seems they used vacuum hose for the returns when installing the new injectors. By the time I got home diesel was pissing everywhere and we had sort of a James Bond tow truck on fire thing going on. It would bog severely after idling for a few moments, the Check engine light going on and off intermittently, and had a miss under hard acceleration (would shift? and go away if I let out of it and then re-applied throttle). But, we made it home... Thanks new truck.

I changed the return lines both sides as all had melted, the fuel filter, and the glow plugs since I was in there. After my repairs sometimes the truck starts and runs perfectly, sometimes it starts, runs a few seconds and shuts down. Typically I can restart by throttling it hard and holding it at 1500-2000 RPM for a minute or so. It breathes really hard blows all sorts of white smoke and will level out and run great until I shut it down for 5 minutes or longer at which time it's a 50/50 how and if it will start again.

It has been around 20-30 degrees, Chicagoland.

The check engine light still comes on and off intermittently. The paper clip diagnostic method gives a 29 code?

I wondered if the fuel is bad or mabey water in it? Where is the water separator on this engine? It's not as obvious as my 7.3.

If this could be from an air leak how do I check for or find that.

Any help would be WAY appreciated. I thought I knew what I was doing, my other truck just didn't break very often I guess.

Justin

:welcome2: Whew looks like some underhood time in your future, anyway welcome to the site.

1st up go through the welcome line in my or any other mods signature, which will untimately direct you to the FAQ reference sticky area above, where pertinent information is "Stuck"

You can check fuel pressure and flow at the t valve, dead center at the thermostat housing. Open it up while running it purges water AND doubles as an easy check for fuel flow. Fuel lines have been known to dry rot and suck air...not a fun process by any means.

Need to go through the diagnostic checklist to get a baseline of where you are at mechanically report back findings,

I suspect as neglected as you indicate by previous owner, all rubber lines need to be Diesel fuel compatible replace those that are suspect, check clean all grounds,very important for the 6.5, are batts up to par need to both be at full capability a bad one will kill a good one.

In FAQ pictures several of us have added pics & names of most of the stuff under the hood.

Off ebay huh? Did you at least give him a neg. feedback?
Why not tell him he smells like diesel and tell him to get lost when you met him. This kind of seller is why it's hard to trust someone else you don't know. I sell on ebay, and I try to be honest....oh well.

Hey, good luck with the burb.

You can check fuel pressure and flow at the t valve, dead center at the thermostat housing. Open it up while running it purges water AND doubles as an easy check for fuel flow. Fuel lines have been known to dry rot and suck air...not a fun process by any means.

I did this check, it died and nothing came out of the hose. It ran and started the best when I rapped on the lift pump with a hammer. So I'm thinking I'll replace the lift pump.

Is there a quick & easy way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it to test pressure?

I found the diagnostic checklist after posting.

Is the trans range pressure sensor expensive? Would that explain the miss prior to shifting, that goes away when I let out and reapply throttle?

You guys are great and thanks for the help.

LOL - pretty hard to test lift pump pressure when there's no fuel coming out...

That T-handle valve? It has a drain line coming off it... when the lift pump is working, and you open that valve, fuel comes out. To test lift pump pressure, you put a gauge on that line fitting.

If the LP isn't working, the injection pump will suck fuel from the tank (poorly), but it will run (sort of). Opening the T-valve when the engine is idling will likely cause it to stall (fuel starvation).

Yep ... I suspect you're in for a new lift pump. If you're EVER going to put in a chip, spend the extra money now to put in a High Output pump, like the one Heath Diesel sells. You can apparently get a Carter HO pump too, but I don't know the part number.

You might want to think about changing out the rubber fuel lines woo, with diesel-compatible lines. Air and fuel are bad together.

Good luck with the truck.

PS - I hope you got a great deal, and find easy & cheap ways to fix everything, so that you get the last laugh on that clown.

One thing to do to test lift pump to see if it is even capable of pushing fuel, put a gauge on the same drain tee from the filter manager, then unplug the lift pumps power connector, just up from the pump itself, on frame rail just aft of the drivers seat.

Make some long jumpers, and slave in 12v power direct to the battery leave 1 wire disconnected until you are out from under the truck and are ready to monitor the gauge, IIRC white wire is +12v & black is gnd it is marked on the pump which is + wire. This eliminates any & all possibility of wiring/control issues a pump might have.

If you still have no fuel, pump is bad, or inlet filter sock in tank is bad, or a rotted spot in the tank to pump supply line is sucking in air, if you get the lift pump to move fuel then we have another troubleshooting path, slave in 12v and report back what you come up with.

PS - I hope you got a great deal, and find easy & cheap ways to fix everything, so that you get the last laugh on that clown.

I paid 3000.00 for it. I'll be happy once it's all straight.

Well.... I picked up a lift pump today. I plugged it in prior to installing it turned the key and it's pumping away. So I figure I found the problem....

I swap the pump, fire it up ( same old drill, not easy or right ). With the truck running I check the pump, and it's not running.

So I'm currious, will a faulty OPS cause intermittent fuel pump power?
Is there anything else that I should check 1st?

Thanks again for all the help.

Justin

Yes, the OPS is what controls the lift pump functions. You can get a new one, which is not that expensive and/or you can buy/make an override for the OPS which I'm sure you will read about here on the site.

Hope you get it worked out.

Mark:beerchug:

1 opened T valve with engine running nothing comes out, engine dies.
2. check engine light is intermittent.
3. 1994 b. 244k miles
4. yes
5. 28
6. new
7. new
8. good, both new
9. ?
10. If it's relluctant to start, then I throttle it to keep it running, it will blow white smoke until it clears out, but it does not always happen
11. sometimes, not always
12. yes, no it doesn't make a difference
13 no, but it does stutter sometimes
14. dont think so
15.?
16.?
17 2500
18. petro diesel
19. no
20. Chicago, last fueled in Indianapolis, truck from Kentucky
21. no
22. straight exhaust no muffler or cat
23. no
24 I think it is stock
25. they are new

You would have been a lot further ahead by now if you'd gone thru the Diagnostic Checklist at your first post..............

Lift pump and OPS function and operation are covered there, but you may have other problems if the new lift pump ran with key on.

OBD1 system runs the LP only during START, and when engine is running, if the OPS is good.

So does that mean that my problem is or isn't likely to be the OPS?

pump runs at start, not when running.

First symptom of OPS failure is no lift pump

Second is bad oil leak

Third is no oil pressure indication on OP gage in instrument cluster.

So, probably best to replace it while it is fresh in your mind.

But, you might also look for a kluged-on relay and a jumble of strange wiring in the engine bay, probably over on the driver's-side fender area, where someone tacked on an OPS bypass system.

If nothing, possibly the OPS is shorted - never happens - or the wiring is shorted, something like that.

You may know more about it when you replace the OPS.

That oval relay on the firewall is the LP START Relay - the rubber rectangle next to it is the LP Fuse.

You'll note: gray wiring to the LP, orange IGN wiring to the relay

Ok - reading your last post, runs in START is better, so OPS is dead.

I picked up and installed the new OPS. The suburban is running great.

Thank you all very much!!!

This forum is excellent.

I picked up and installed the new OPS. The suburban is running great.

Thank you all very much!!!

This forum is excellent.

Always love to hear successes;

Okay your bill for this is to add your vehicle info to your signature, we know where you live if you don't pay your bill, "I know a guy" that makes house calls :eek: ;) :D

test signature.

Bill paid in full, :D

Now that you know how to do it, might want to add some things to it from RPO code list (see FAQ) for more detailed info Like S or F engine, most 2500s are F, but some do have EGR S codes as well (8th digit of VIN for that)

round 2.....

It really did run good for a little bit!

Then............... Hard starts, breathes hard (like it's really rich or loaded up, this lasts only a few minutes of driving hard or holding the RPMs up to clear it out), has died a few times if I'm hard on the throttle and let off abruptly, and the Check Engine light comes on when I apply throttle till 60 or 70 mph or till I completely let off the throttle it goes off ( untill I apply throttle or load again).

I cleared the codes and then started over, this would be a new diagnostic checklist:

1. Lift pump and OPS new and appear to be functioning properly
2. check engine light comes on every time engine is under load, and then goes off upon coasting or idling.
3. Suburban is a 1994 2500 6.5 F
4. cleared a bunch of codes (29,35,36,78, and 18?) 36 and 78 came back,
I have a Hayes manual (doesn't have all the codes in it.....} I believe from my learning here these 36 injection band width long, 78 Waste gate selenoid, still I dont know exactly what that means I should fix?

6. air filter new
7. fuel filter is new
8. battery terminals have good connection, new, matched set
9. I don't thimk the radiator hose gets hard when cold
10. some gray smoke at start and until engine (clears out)
11. yes
12. yes, and no it doesn't make a difference
13. no, but I do have a moderate amount of grey? smoke
14. at start up and sometimes upon hard acceleration
15?I will go through this now and report back
16. F engine
17. 2500
18. petro diesel
19. no
20. midwest Chicagoland
21new ops, lift pump, air pump, injectors, glow plugs, filters, bateries, water pump, temp sensor, all in last 5k miles.
22. stock
23. no vaccume
24.stock
25. new

For 78, how do you have the wastegate configured - vacuum, spring, or wired shut?

36 can be caused by low voltage, caused by oxidized\corroded connections, frayed\broken wires, fuse connection, Ign switch.

Also hi-mileage on Inj Pump, sometimes PMD - what is you odometer readng?

Try a heavy dose of power service Diesel additive and two-stroke (weed-eater) motor oil.

15. It started right up this morning. So I'm checking the turbo There is no noticeable vacuum at the connection to the cannister, the actuator rod slides both ways freely, the linkage did fall apart ( Im thinking that'd be bad, so I put it back together) and I slid the rod forward all the way and revved it up. Holy smoke!!!!! heh heh. The neighbor guy was looking out the window like he's wants to rape me or something.... So I revved it several more times and give him a dirty look ( I love condo living ). I'm thinking a turbo overhaul is in order. Before I do it, what does the OBD-I want to tell me with the 36 Ignition band width too long? Or what's a likely fix?

You guys are great, Thanks Again!

For 78, how do you have the wastegate configured - vacuum, spring, or wired shut?

36 can be caused by low voltage, caused by oxidized\corroded connections, frayed\broken wires, fuse connection, Ign switch.

Also hi-mileage on Inj Pump, sometimes PMD - what is you odometer readng?

Try a heavy dose of power service Diesel additive and two-stroke (weed-eater) motor oil.

Waste gate is the stock set up, probably not working correctly (no vacumme)
odometer is 245,ooo miles.
When you say a heavy dose how much additive and 2stroke? I have both in my truck, but never considered that'd be a fix.
Does either 2 stroke work or is synthetic/dino better?

Try 16oz power service cetane additive + 16oz ashless dino two-stroke per full tank - that would make a quart of brew.

What are your local ambient temps, there?

Bad fuel, water in fuel can cause those symptoms, and water can freeze in the filter, reducing fuel flow.

DTC78 is resulted when PCM reads higher Boost than is being demanded - is the wastegate loose and floppy at idle?.

Try 16oz power service cetane additive + 16oz ashless dino two-stroke per full tank - that would make a quart of brew.

What are your local ambient temps, there?

Bad fuel, water in fuel can cause those symptoms, and water can freeze in the filter, reducing fuel flow.

DTC78 is resulted when PCM reads higher Boost than is being demanded - is the wastegate loose and floppy at idle?.

I just filled up with the quart of BREW mixed in.
Local ambient conditions are freezing rain, hail , slush, 100% humidity, and temperatures around 30 f give or take 50 degrees daily. Sweet home.

Waste gate was all floppy, I did find a cracked area of the hose by the solenoid mounted on the intake manifold. So I fixed that and now the actuator rod is more solid like the description in the Turbo check part of the checklist.

Was still registering 36 and 78 codes. So I reset the codes again now that the vacuum is fixed.

Thanks again!

I have had four 6.5TD trucks. All of them did that when I first bought them, especially after a good heat soak (run to store, inside for 15 min, come out, truck runs horrible). I replaced PMD's on all of them, bought the aftermarket coolers, and moved them inside the airbox behind the airfilter. I also took the lift pump you just replace and hard wired it to an ignition source and a switch. those pumps only came on to aid in startup on the trucks I had. They would run for a few seconds and shut off. Thats why I hot wired mine, and it seemed to work alot better. I was told the the fuel boils sitting on top of the motor for too long, and wiring the pump the way I did, cooled the fuel down.

I also put in a 180 thermostat in from like a 70 chrysler 440, or 426. It is the same size thermostat, and fit right in and wasnt $30.

I also changed my wastgate on my last truck to one off of a ricer car, pressure operated and tapped into the upper manifold. It took some fabricating, but worked good.

I made about 12psi boost, and never seemed to kick the light.

This is what I'd like to post - Spuds, you need to spend some time in FAQ's and Reference to get a sense of just how totally bass-ackwards the mis-info you just posted really is.

But, I guess it'd be more politically correct to post this -

Welcome to the 'Place, Spuds...........

Noticed by your sig that you drive a DMax - but, as this is the 6.5 forum, you might want to spend some time in the FAQ's and Reference area to see how much effort we have put in to dispel the myths, old wives' tales, and general BS that most folks come aboard with, having encountered it on other forums, dealerships, and general mechanics around the world.

We exist to aid, inform, and protect - please help us do so.

Update.....

With the waste gate hooked bake up as stock, the truck runs great again. starts, runs, drives, and most importantly doesn't stall in intersections anymore.

Thanks to All!

I'm still getting a little stutter occasionally under load, but it's not scary.
Still have intermittent check engine light, mostly under load.
still getting trouble code 36 injection .....

I will do a visual inspection of wires etc. and probably replace/relocate the PMD if this persists.

Thanks again! I've learned quite a bit in the past couple days.

Hate to dissapoint ya but your non working wastegate has nothing to do with stalling!(so don't be surprised when it stalls again)
...or starting
The fixed wastegate WILL make it drive much much better

I might have missed it but have you tried re-torquing the FSD transistor nuts?

Hate to dissapoint ya but your non working wastegate has nothing to do with stalling!(so don't be surprised when it stalls again)
...or starting
The fixed wastegate WILL make it drive much much better

I might have missed it but have you tried re-torquing the FSD transistor nuts?

OK I give up what is the FSD transistor?

I feel your troubles. This is my first time here and I am having similar problems. When cold, mine starts immediately, runs for about 5-10 seconds and dies. After 30-60 seconds of cranking it will start again with some smokiness and minor rough idle but it clears up immediately and it runs fine after that.

I know I know, I'm not hijacking your thread, just telling you folks that I am subscribing and will start a new thread when I have time to run through the checklist. This really is an awesome forum.

I feel your troubles. This is my first time here and I am having similar problems. When cold, mine starts immediately, runs for about 5-10 seconds and dies. After 30-60 seconds of cranking it will start again with some smokiness and minor rough idle but it clears up immediately and it runs fine after that.

I know I know, I'm not hijacking your thread, just telling you folks that I am subscribing and will start a new thread when I have time to run through the checklist. This really is an awesome forum.

CoolNick,

I should be so cool as to have people HiJack my anything! Welcome.

I do have 2 threads going for 1 problem, it has been transmuting everytime I thought I'd fixed it.

What I'd tell you is this, look at the simplest things 1st.
The most improvement I've made so far was achieved by:

1 OPS
2 removal of incorrect fuel cap
3 bleeding fuel filter after removal of incorrect cap

Mind you the thing was not drivable with air in the system and a huge vacume in the tank. These are far from the only "repairs" I'v made, just the ones that seemed to do something.

Best of luck,

Thanks for the welcome, I've been doing a ton of reading over the past 2 days and it looks like those things you mentioned were going to be my starting point. My only confusion with the OPS is that I get a good reading on the oil pressure guage on the instrument cluster. I do experience a periodic slight miss when I go full throttle, so there could be other issues. I'll let you know how mine turns out and we can compare notes.

Welcome to the 'Place, cool dude.........

The dual-purpose OPS has the sender for the gage seperately from the switch for the Lift Pump - the gage almost never indicates failure associated with the LP circuit.

At 12 years\175kmi, it's likely way passed due for replacement.

Welcome to the 'Place, cool dude.........

The dual-purpose OPS has the sender for the gage seperately from the switch for the Lift Pump - the gage almost never indicates failure associated with the LP circuit.

At 12 years\175kmi, it's likely way passed due for replacement.

So is this typically the way to go, replace the OPS instead of getting the bypass harness from one of the vendors here? I imagine the OPS will be significantly cheaper, so I guess I just answered my own question.

I also experienced two semi-warm startup issues today. On both occasions the truck had been sitting for approximately an hour and each time it did not start immediately, it took a good 60 seconds of cranking (not constant). This is the only time it did not start immediately then die 10 seconds later.

I bought this truck over a year ago and have put maybe 4k miles on it, I bought it to drag my cars to the track occasionally. Now I have a new job that is about 20 miles from home, so I am driving the truck much more often to keep the miles off the cars. I would like to feel 100% confident that it is going to start immediately every time, and eventually get a little more power out of it. I have seriously read nearly every link in the FAQ section over the last 2 days. I wish I would have found this site last year. :D

The bypass harness is your choice - just don't wire the LP directly to the Ign switch.

And remote-mount the PMD

Post the DS4-xx-xxxx number from the model number plate on the rear of the IP facing the intake manifold - you'll need to use a small mirror.

At 175k it may need Inj Pump, injectors, timing chain set, water pump, even Ign switch.

The EFI 6.5 doesn't sit well - best to drive it for many reasons, keep the systems functional.

Thanks gmctd, I'll get the numbers off the injection pump ASAP. In the meantime, where can I go for GM parts online? My local dealer argues with me every time I go in there about having a TD in a 1500 and they RAPE me with their pricing. :mad:


I would rather use the factory OPS signal to run the lift pump as long as it is not something that I will have to replace every 5k miles.

If you have the part numbers, gmpartsdirect.com sells at dealer cost, but there is similar purported sexual molestation\assault in their shipping fees.

Check out some of the vendors, for various items.

Well I went to my local dealer because they have a ton of stuff in stock and I imagine once they see my face a few times they'll start hooking it up with the discounts like my Mitsu dealer. Anyway, they had the OPS for $40 so I grabbed that and ran by the local auto parts store and grabbed some Diesel Klean and some 2 stroke oil. I went home and climbed inside the engine bay and found the OPS. If they tried to put that in a more difficult to access spot I don't think they could. I couldn't get it loose for the life of me so I smacked the black plastic body with my ratchet to knock the body off and I got the base of it out with a socket. That was easy enough but getting the new one tight was a PITA. I got it gorilla hand tight and got a slight extra turn with an adjustable wrench, but I think I'll need to be tightening it a little better in the near future. I mixed up a little additive and poured it in for good measure and went and started the truck. Of course it fired right up and I checked the WG actuator and it had plenty of tension. So I go for a drive...


And it appears that I now have a properly running TD. I can floor it and I get no bucking and it actually pulls pretty good. I live in a hilly area and I found a nice steep one and floored it and accellerated really well all the way up the hill. I don't think the lift pump has ever worked the entire time I have owned this truck. There are more little things that I need to do, but this has literally given this truck a new lease on life. I can't thank you guys enough for all your help and I couldn't be happier about finding this forum. Now it's time to mod it. :D


I got the VIN off the truck so I will look into the codes and see what options it has and it looks like the IP and driver have both been replaced, they had strikingly clean white stickers on them. I couldn't see the pump part #, but I wasn't really looking too hard. I was too excited about it running like a champ.

Well I went to my local dealer because they have a ton of stuff in stock and I imagine once they see my face a few times they'll start hooking it up with the discounts like my Mitsu dealer. Anyway, they had the OPS for $40 so I grabbed that and ran by the local auto parts store and grabbed some Diesel Klean and some 2 stroke oil. I went home and climbed inside the engine bay and found the OPS. If they tried to put that in a more difficult to access spot I don't think they could. I couldn't get it loose for the life of me so I smacked the black plastic body with my ratchet to knock the body off and I got the base of it out with a socket. That was easy enough but getting the new one tight was a PITA. I got it gorilla hand tight and got a slight extra turn with an adjustable wrench, but I think I'll need to be tightening it a little better in the near future. I mixed up a little additive and poured it in for good measure and went and started the truck. Of course it fired right up and I checked the WG actuator and it had plenty of tension. So I go for a drive...


And it appears that I now have a properly running TD. I can floor it and I get no bucking and it actually pulls pretty good. I live in a hilly area and I found a nice steep one and floored it and accellerated really well all the way up the hill. I don't think the lift pump has ever worked the entire time I have owned this truck. There are more little things that I need to do, but this has literally given this truck a new lease on life. I can't thank you guys enough for all your help and I couldn't be happier about finding this forum. Now it's time to mod it. :D


I got the VIN off the truck so I will look into the codes and see what options it has and it looks like the IP and driver have both been replaced, they had strikingly clean white stickers on them. I couldn't see the pump part #, but I wasn't really looking too hard. I was too excited about it running like a champ.
Glad to hear you got her running. :)

Mark:beerchug:

CoolNick,

Glad your truck is running well. and an update on my challenges.

Still getting air in the system
Did swap the fuel filter again to see if it was the problem, wasn't.
I have noticed that if I bleed the fuel filter and then shut it down, it starts right up even a day later. Also, if I run it for about 1/2 an hour (shorter and shorter all the time) it will get air in the system, run like poo, and be very reluctant to start until bleed again.

So I believe air is being pumped in while it's running. Not sure from where.
I am going out to look at it today.

If it's not wet (leaking out) any where, how do I find how the air is getting in?

PS the IP tag said: H7 DS4831 5288 and then something about 97 (mabey a born on date?). What should that tell me?

CoolNick,

Glad your truck is running well. and an update on my challenges.

Still getting air in the system
Did swap the fuel filter again to see if it was the problem, wasn't.
I have noticed that if I bleed the fuel filter and then shut it down, it starts right up even a day later. Also, if I run it for about 1/2 an hour (shorter and shorter all the time) it will get air in the system, run like poo, and be very reluctant to start until bleed again.

So I believe air is being pumped in while it's running. Not sure from where.
I am going out to look at it today.

If it's not wet (leaking out) any where, how do I find how the air is getting in?
From what I understand, getting air in the system and not showing any leaking, say's the problem is in the return lines. Maybe a pinhole, loose clamp on the line/or at the sending unit, hole in the top of the tank or bad sending unit. That is about as far as my knowledge runs here unless I read back through many of my/ and others old posts about air in the line.
Fortunately I've been blessed with getting the problems I've had figured out from the reading here or one of the several locals with the knowledge has come by and lended their assistance for which I am most grateful.;)
Hope you get it figured out soon.

Mark:beerchug:

Sounds like someone replaced the original injection pump correct?

Fuel line leak is probably in the suction not the return lines because the suction lines are sucking up to the lift pump inlet, if there is a pinhole it sucks air, mine the truck ran fine on a full tank and stumbled more often as level dropped. Kinda like trying to drink a coke with a cracked straw.....the more full the easier

The 2 second lift pump check for me is to (with the truck off) put the truck in drive while holding the brake....and turn the ignition key to the start position, the engine will not crank and the lift pump comes on regardless if the ops is even connected(94-95). A well tuned ear can now hear if its sucking air

The best way to see if it is sucking air is to put a piece of clear hose to a can on the filter bleed valve and with the truck running or the lift pump check arrangement above if it don't run and bleed fuel to see if there is bubbles. At one point I had a line rigged from the filter bleed all the way back to the fuel tank.....see the roof rack is useful. It was hard for me to believe that those little bubbles could be causing that much grief especially starting. with the makeshift rig to the tank the truck was drivable around the block.

So I did the easy thing and replaced the FSD/PMD with a remote cooler just in case.......and a week later I was dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pickup with one from Rockauto. Works fine but now a full tank the gauge only goes to 3/4 of a tank.....better to be missing the top quarter of the tank not the bottom....

MX, your '94 was equiped with the 5067 IP - that 5288 is a later replacement - if it is from '97, that would make it 10 years old.

A VIN check may give more information on actual replacement vintage.

The filter cannister is higher than the fuel tank, so if the lift pump valve is leaking, the fuel will flow back to the tank - after that, the leaking pump cannot catch up, so rough-running is the sypmtom with aerated fuel

MX, your '94 was equiped with the 5067 IP - that 5288 is a later replacement - if it is from '97, that would make it 10 years old.

A VIN check may give more information on actual replacement vintage.

The filter cannister is higher than the fuel tank, so if the lift pump valve is leaking, the fuel will flow back to the tank - after that, the leaking pump cannot catch up, so rough-running is the sypmtom with aerated fuel

VIN check by the dealer?

Everything is ok while off, doesn't leak back.
After extensive procrastinatory testing I've pulled the tank and there's diesel on top, the sender is rustier than what could be good.

Now I have to find parts>>>>.....

Yes - see if the dealer can run a VIS for you while you're there, gives you all the previous maint and repair issues

I got my pickup online from RockAuto, pretty inexpensive compared to the dealer. The fuel sender only sends a signal up to 3/4 of a tank.....guess it's better to have the top 1/4 of the range missing and not the bottom 1/4.:rolleyes:

Fuel lines are about 150 each (6 total, 2 at tank, 2 along frame, 2 to engine.) each at the dealership...oh yeah last I checked the 2 for the tank were discontinued. Not that you could get them disconnected anyway:cool: My mechanic said that they have an all plastic line that they run from the tank to the engine replace everything for $300. I wacked the rubber hoses at the tank half way and used barbed fittings to 2 aftermarket diesel fuel compatible hoses about 18" long and slid the threadded fitting back on the pickup an hose on the tube, and greased the hell out of the threads on the unused fittings so if I go with the plastic jobs from front to back the threads should still be good, and put the o-rings in the glovebox....I think..:(

[quote=gse2schmidt;1675513;]I got my pickup online from RockAuto, pretty inexpensive compared to the dealer.

Fuel lines are about 150 each (6 total, 2 at tank, 2 along frame, 2 to engine.) each at the dealership...oh yeah last I checked the 2 for the tank were discontinued. Not that you could get them disconnected anyway:cool: My mechanic said that they have an all plastic line that they run from the tank to the engine replace everything for $300.

Found the parts at Rockauto.com.
Does anybody know anything about the plastic replacement line kit?

UPDATE!

I put in the new pick up, and it runs great now. It did start leaking fuel from the return line in the frame, probably from messing with it. Is there any reason to not run 5/16 rubber fuel line from the front to the rear for the return. I'm gonna try to git er done with out removing the tank again, PITA!

Happy Easter!

UPDATE!

I put in the new pick up, and it runs great now. It did start leaking fuel from the return line in the frame, probably from messing with it. Is there any reason to not run 5/16 rubber fuel line from the front to the rear for the return. I'm gonna try to git er done with out removing the tank again, PITA!

Happy Easter!
The rubber probably won't last.
Glad you got her running and I hate to say,,,,I told ya so.:D :D :D :D

Mark:beerchug:

I have 3/8" and 5/16" rubber fuel lines from tank to IP and back. Been there for a year now with no problems. I used high pressure (read expensive) rubber lines, probably overkill but works for me. Just make sure they will take diesel and your fine.

Okay so I replaced the OPS and my truck started and ran great for about 3-4 weeks, then guess what? The lift pump is not turning on again. :mad:

Looks like I will be bypassing that worthless heapof**** garbage retarded ass backwards OPS.

And.......what happens when you find out it's not the OPS, but the lift pump wiring, or even the lift pump itself?

And.......what happens when you find out it's not the OPS, but the lift pump wiring, or even the lift pump itself?

I'll test it first obviously, I am just planning ahead here. Were you the one that posted your OPS bypass in another thread? I am looking to do that now and I guess I will just go off the 12V+ with the key in the ON position.

Pull the fuse up by the relay, jumper one spade to the battery, plug the other spade into the passender-side terminal in the fuse holder, the LP should pump fuel out the open drain-spigot.

The LP can vibrate without pumping fuel when the plastic valves fail

I pulled the relay and jumpered a 12V to the fuel pump relay outlet terminal and the lift pump fired up. Checked the OPS and nothing. Pretty nice that it only lasted a month. :rolleyes: I cut the line that feeds signal from the OPS to the relay and fed the relay with an ignition trigger instead. Works like a charm. I should have done this in the first place. I'll remember to turn off the ignition since you guys seem so worried about it. :D