Last weekend on a trip to pismo my truck went into limp mode, sounded worse than a my dads cummins. Anyways, thanks to this website I had already read about problems with the injector connecters going bad so when it happened I knew what it was. I ended up driving it about 8 miles to pismo then the next day I took it to the dealer. They ended up replacing the #7 connecter only, I thought they were supposed to replace #7 & #2. When I got home I inspected #2 and it doesnt have any bends or kinks in it like some people are saying, so is it okay or should they have replaced it too. Also, did I screw anything up by driving it and pulling my toyhauler.

What did the dealer charge you? I had the same problem yesterday but they are saying they need to replace the whole harness for the #2 and #7 injectors. Interesting..>They want to tax me about $400 bucks for the whole job

$0 , I was only @ 25,000 miles.

When you get the kit for the 2,7 repair, it comes with both connectors.

I replace #7 everytime, because of the bend it always makes ( and obviously if thats the problem one) and #2 depends on how it looks, if the wiring is nice and straight and wont have a problem, I leave it alone. Reason is that I think cutting the harness leaves a slightly higher chance for long term problems. I always give the connector to the customer though just in case.

Yeah, the #2 connecter goes straight in and doesnt bend or anything, there is plenty of slack. So you think it is okay?

I usually put a zip tie to it from the bracket that is right in front of it if I am a little suspect of it. I doubt there will be problems though if the wire dosnt make a sharp bends or pulled to tight anywhere.

When you get the kit for the 2,7 repair, it comes with both connectors.

I replace #7 every time, because of the bend it always makes ( and obviously if thats the problem one) and #2 depends on how it looks, if the wiring is nice and straight and wont have a problem, I leave it alone. Reason is that I think cutting the harness leaves a slightly higher chance for long term problems. I always give the connector to the customer though just in case.

Not anymore. All you get is a new connector and a length of wire. They only fix the one that fails. No more 90 degree kit unless you argue you need it. Problem seems to be an internal connector problem. Maybe even corrosion on the terminals. Have heard to shove aluminum foil in there and forget it.

hu, just did one last week and still got the kit.

Not what the latest TSB says to do. You are refering to a TSB over 2 years old.

Is there a way to prevent this from happening? I hate to just wait to get stranded somewhere. Zip tie? Add insulation? Wire loom?

I'm concerned about having a 2/7 connector go bad when I'm in a remote location.
- Does the connector break completely? Or just make a bad connection?
- "Aluminum foil"? Where would I shove it?

It doesn't "look" like my 2/7 wires are tight or stressed. (I just saw the previous post, so yes) ... is there something we can do to prevent it?

Thanks ! ! !

Some pictures of the culprit for us beginners please and thanks..

I checked the pictures in the bulletin, but they are pretty worthless.

As for what you can do, just make sure the wires run straight out of the connector off the injector for about an inch or so, I ziptie the #2 harness to the bracket that is supposed to be used as a ground to make sure it stays straight.

The wires break out of the connector or at the terminals.

I have no idea what the alumium foil fix is???

Where mine failed both times was internal to the connector. I took small pieces of alu foil and put inside the female terminals of the connector to make connection inside the connector. It worked well enough for me that many have said here to leave it alone. Nothing you can really do to prevent it from happening except be prepared for it. I have also read on the latest TSB that corrosion was possibly to blame as well. I thought about putting some aluminum wire corrosion protection grease in there. You can get anywhere home wiring is found. It is a black grease full of conductive material. Thinking this may help, but have not put it in yet to try. Just be prepared with your code reader and alu foil.

I have never seen the wires break outside the connector.

Becareful if it contains conductive material that it dosnt get spread across both terminals.

Is there a way to prevent this from happening? I hate to just wait to get stranded somewhere. Zip tie? Add insulation? Wire loom?

I thought that you added insulating material between the wire loom and the bracket that supports the loom.

I thought that you added insulating material between the wire loom and the bracket that supports the loom.


The problem is that the wire comes out of the connector and has to take a sharp bend to the main harness. What the kit does, installes 90* connectors and also adds some brackets.

To help prevent the connector from ever having an issue, need to make sure the connector remains stress free. There is no support bracket currently in the problem area from the factory.

They didnt put the metal bracket on mine, should they have?

In the kit a bracket does come with it for #7 cylinder. The only problem with the bracket and even the #7 connector, it runs the wires up towards the turbo and a 90* angle needs to be made to get onto the bracket.

if the wires face away from the Turbo and run towards the exhaust manifold, they used the #2 connector. In some ways I actually like this better and think there is less stress on the wire/connector than using the bracket and #7 connector. I used to do them that way, but now I usually just put the bracket on and try to keep the bends a little looser, not sure that I really like that any better though. The bracket way looks a little cleaner, but I still question the bends in the wires made to use it.

For people I know that would rather have function over looks, I use the #2 on the #7 if the #2 connector is ok on the truck.

I have never had either way comeback for any further issue, but who knows 200k miles down the road.

Could someone please confirm the cylinder numbers from front to back and driver vs. passenger side. I want to make sure I know where 2 and 7 are located.:cool:

2,4,6,8 Drivers side
1,3,5,7 Passenger side