Just picked up a Fabtech steering stabalizer that mounts using factory setup. Is this puppy hard to change out? Any special tools needed? I figured the quality of the OEM unit was probably comparable to the rubber-band OEM shocks so I'm replacing.

It will not be hard to install at all. Just follow the instructions and you will only need minor tools to do this. Probably a socket set and a screw driver or small pry bar. Good luck..

Well got it on but wasn't fun by any means. I know I needed something like a tie-rod puller to get the one end out as it was almost like it was pressed in. Beat on it for awhile and used a chisel as a wedge and managed to get it out. glad I replaced it ... the OEM one felt real whimpy after only 15K miles. The fabtech stabilizer is almost twice as large in diameter.

Ya you will definately notice a difference when you drive it. The steering will be stiffer and respond better. Allows more control. Glad you got it done.

I wondered how long those things lasted. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

They don't last long at all. Most people will pull those off and switch them out as soon as they change the stock shocks out. That is next on my list of "TO DO's"..

Hey Tophog,


Could you post the part number, price, and where you got the Fabtech stabilizer?


Anyone else that has done this, please tell what brand, etc also.


Thanks

Fabtech part: FABFTS8004


Paid $59.99


Bought it here:


http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/productLine.asp?cat=SUS&prodline=3101&catName=Susp ension&man=FAB&parentProdline=SusChevFAB&expand=su b1


It bolts up just like OEM ...doesn't require additional brackets, etc. like others.Edited by: tophog

Tophog,


That stabilizer is listed for a lifted truck only, do you know if it works on a stock truck with green keys only? I have 305s with large wheels (heavy setup) and I am sure I will be wearing out that stock stab soon. I always repalce my stabilizers on all my trucks.. I would love to get a bilstein if they make em... Had the best of luck them them in the past. Tried several others including Rancho with no luck.. The bilstein was great...


Let me know your thoughts on installing that puppy on a stocker.


Thanks,


J

I don't see any reason it won't fit a stock truck as there is nothing about an IFS lift, regardless of height or stock, that would require a specific steering stabilizer. I know it's advertised for a 6-8" lift truck ...worked fine on my truck and I only have a 4" lift and read in other forums where guys used on stock truck with no problems. If you want to be sure I would call Fabtech and ask them.

Okay, I'll ask the STUPID question. What does the steering stabilizer do? Obviously it is derived from the two greek words "steering" and "stabilize," but for the guy with a stock truck with stock wheels and tires, not lifted, what would happen if I put one of those on my truck?


I understand the basics of how steering and suspensions work, but no in-depth knowledge or any knowledge of changes to the stock system.


Thanks!,
Dennis

I will do the same thing the factory one does but better, absorb the shcok of hitting pothole and reduce the tendency of the steering wheel trying to move toward the side of the pothole or bump. It there to stop the steering wopple.

What does the steering stabilizer do?


It's a horizontal shock absorber mounted on the tie rods and steering arm to dampen and control side-to-side motions in the steering and keep the wheels tracking straight over bumps and obstacles while also reducing the feedback into the steering shaft and wheel. It's mounted right up behind the front crossmember in the steering components directly in front of the engine.Edited by: Idle_Chatter

Okay, thanks. Most people probably don't need one then? Kind of something to do if you're bored and feel like adding something? Kind of like me.


Thanks,
Dennis

Dennis,


I think that the quality of the stock steering stablizer on our trucks is the same quality as the stock shocks.


A good aftermarket stablizer will give one a little better steering control.


My old 3/4 ton truck had no stablizer and it was a pure joy to drive. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif


A new stablizer is on my truck's Christmas list. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

A couple of questions for you guys. Will an upgraded stabilizer correct what I call sloppy steering wheel play while just driving on flat roads.(turn the wheel side to side but nothing much happens, say couple inches each side of center) It's not too excessive but doesn't seem as tight or responsive as it once did when new. Does this require a front end alignment after installation, and is it a project one could tackle without knowledge of how all the parts up front work?
ie are there pictures with the instructionshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

Thanks

additionally a steering stabilizer shows its worth when you are pulling a trailer and either get the front wheel to close to the edge of the pavement or blow a tire. in both cases, the truck is going to try and dive to the side. a steering stabilizer will slow down the wrenching of the wheel out of your grip and help you maintain control. that is the way they work, to slow down the sideways wrenching of the front suspension, the same way that shock absorbers slow down the up and down oscillation of the wheels. folks with high lifts and really big tires run more than one stabilizer. has to do with the amount of mass you are trying to control.


so do most people need them? yep, if you have a truck as the front wheel mass is already more than a cars. bump your tires to 265's you have increased the mass etc etc :-)


dave

Dave and Dave,


Thanks. Both seem like strong arguments for adding an aftermarket stabilizer. It might be Christmas around here before I know it. Seems like it's Christmas every week or so. . . http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Thanks,
Dennis

TD DMax,


Please clarify some issues about the sloppy steering such as:


1. current mileage


2. tires - type and mileage, depth of tread


3. anything else you can think of that would contribute to "sloppy steering"


A steering stabilizer has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with the precision of your steering. As I said in my prior post, it slows down, "controls", the side to side wrenching that can occur (does occur). The precision of your steering is entirely mechanical, but can be affected by such issues as worn tires, etc, when the vehicle is not responding to the input given.


You can sometimes see if there is a worn component. Get under the vehicle (truck) and trace the steering linkage components so you get a visual in your mind. Then have a helper turn the wheel back and for in SMALL amounts. We don't want to go wrenching it. You would be looking for a component that has input movement with no output movement.


My 1991 K2500 eats idler arms. about every 30,000 miles it needs a new one. It has 111,000 on it. The tie rod ends, ball joints, etc are all original, but I am on the 3rd idler arm. The idler arm caused my truck to not respond to input until the "wear amount" was passed and then it moved. THUS sloppy steering. NEW idler arm, steering back tight.


I hope this helps. Respond back to the questions above. Get under the truck like I said and watch and maybe it will start to become clear what is causing the issue


Hopefully these new trucks won't have "the weak link" but mechanical parts wear out, fail, come from the factory on the "high side of tolerance" and wear out sooner than the guys down the street who's came on the "low side of tolerance".


PS. I am going to put in a good aftermarket stabilizer. I already replaced the shocks with Bilsteins. My truck has 2500 miles. The oem shocks are not the best in my opinion. For a truck costing this much, they could have done better. I put the Bilsteins on at about 1500 miles.


dave

DRCook
Thanks for the response. Here is some additional info.
(1) current mileage 41K
(2) origianl Firestone 245's, tread is about 45% remaining.
(3) the truck drives straight if you let go of the wheel, doesn't wander around on the highway, but it just doesn't seem to be as responsive as it once did. (4)Steering wheel doesn't have the knock as some of had.
(5) haven't towed anything yet, that part is on hold for a while.
(6) I check the grease points regulary and add if necessary.
(7) changed over to Bilsteins at 31K
(8)the only front end work I had done was a lower ball joint. The grease jockey at the dealer burst the rubber boot, saw it happen and mentioned to SM. Had to change out whole thing.

Anyway I'll climb underneath when I'm back from vacation, and have a look as you mentioned, to see if things look OK. I appreciate your comments, thanks again. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif Edited by: TC Dmax

there could be component wear coming into play at that mileage. like I said about my 1991, take a critical look at the idler arm


dave

Will an upgraded stabilizer correct what I call sloppy steering wheel play while just driving on flat roads.(turn the wheel side to side but nothing much happens, say couple inches each side of center) It's not too excessive but doesn't seem as tight or responsive as it once did when new.
Well, if you have what I did then perhaps you can fix it by adjusting the steering box. If you decide to give it a try, here's how...

Follow the steering shaft forwards, from the firewall, towards the front of the truck. At the end of the shaft you'll see the steering box itself. It's not very big, so don't be looking for something the size of your battery.

On the top of the steering box is a nut that has a bolt through the middle with a hex (Allen) head. It will look different then the rest of the bolts on top of the box, so you can't confuse them. Loosen -- but don't remove! -- that nut, and then tighten the hex bolt 1/4 of a turn. But no more. That adjustment goes a LONG way, so even a minor amount of tightening makes a noticeable difference in response. AAMOF, I considered my steering to be pretty sloppy and 1/4 almost made it too tight.

After you've made the adjustment then re-tighten the nut. Since you have to make certain the hex bolt doesn't move at this point it's better to do this using a wrench, so you can hold the bolt in place while you tighten the nut back down. I used the Allen key/wrench combo to loosen and tighten, which worked pretty good for me.

This is not a hard or complicated adjustment, so just about anyone can do it. But pay attention so you don't over-tighten it.

Thanks for the info gents, I'll let you know my findings in a couple of weeks.

I agree if all other components are tight that the ball screw can be out of adjustment. In fact, we had an alignment shop in the area that did that adjustment as part of their alignment. you just have to be careful and do the adjustment as specified above by Mr. Wilson. The steering boxes are what are called "recirculating ball". That means that there are lots of (in essence) ball bearings, running in a ball nut, with the "screw being the steering shaft, the bearings (balls) circulate through the ball nut and go out and then back in through the recirculation tube. As Mr Wilson said, too much and you won't be able to turn the wheel. too loose and steering is wobbly. a little too much can cause premature wear. I have done this trick myself, it works.

Fabtech part: FABFTS8004


Paid $59.99


Bought it here:


http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/productLine.asp?cat=SUS&prodline=3101&catName=Susp ension&man=FAB&parentProdline=SusChevFAB&expand=su b1


It bolts up just like OEM ...doesn't require additional brackets, etc. like others.





Just ordered one for my truck. I verified first that it would fit a stock suspension! Thanks for the info!

Well got it on but wasn't fun by any means. I know I needed something like a tie-rod puller to get the one end out as it was almost like it was pressed in. Beat on it for awhile and used a chisel as a wedge and managed to get it out. glad I replaced it ... the OEM one felt real whimpy after only 15K miles. The fabtech stabilizer is almost twice as large in diameter.

Hehh - yeah, I stacked up some 1/2" extensions to about
3' long, slipped the ratchet end over the top of the bolt head, then used a 4lb shop hammer from the top to knock it out. Took me about 30 minutes to replace it I guess.

Here's a (not so good) picture of the stock vs. the Fabtech.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/58E_IMG_0002.JPG

Thanks for the part number....

T.

Was your old one worn out? Did you push it in and out to verify if it was worn out? Could you tell a deifference after installing it?

Was your old one worn out? Did you push it in and out to verify if it was worn out? Could you tell a deifference after installing it?

I doubt the stock one was worn out, although I do
have > 18K miles on it. I installed larger H2 wheels
w/taller & heavier 285/70-17 tires on it and I noticed
a difference in the steering control. I CAN tell you
there was a definate difference in resistance between
the two shocks - hopefully that'll translate into better
"felt" steering control. I can't tell you it will though
since I only installed it yesterday & haven't driven it yet. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

hth,

T.