What are the requirements for a rollcage? Can we have the "bolt-on" and weld it to the frame, will 1&3/4 (120 or 134) work, will they bump us to 2" and what can we make the stuff out of? I would like to see chromoly (sp) ....but I don't know where to start? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


Confused...... any sugestions?





Burner-----------------> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

same specs as any vehical. take a look at the nhra or ihra book. chromoly is nice since its lighter and you can run smaller tubing but you need to make sure the welder knows his stuff. Mild steel is the other option. technicly we arnt in "cage" country, just roll bar or borderline for us right now.

The issue that trigger the need for Roll Bars and Roll Cages is your ET.


NHRA tracks require a 6 point roll bar to run 11.99 and faster. IHRA tracks require a 6 poing roll bar to run 11.49 and faster. Independent tracks pick and choose there rules from both books.


Your 6 points for a car are all mounted inside the cabin. They come from the main loop running from the floor behind the front seats along the roof and back down. Then two rear bars running of the top of the loop to the base of the floor pan. Putting them to the frame is optional but they may need square plates for reinforcement depending on where they are. The other two points come off the loop to protect the riders on the side by running from the loop down towards your feet.


Now in a regular cab truck you can see where this gets interesting in terms of getting a 6 point roll bar. Putting the standard four point roll bar in the bed may be passible at some tracks but I'd check where you're going to be running. There reality is there aren't many truck running that need one because of the rules, it' more your choice for personal safety.


If you go to the NHRA website, you'll be able to find the specs for bar stock for milled and Chromo. The primary advantage for Chromo is strength and weight savings. The Chromo stock will cost a bit more and it's worth it for cars but I'm not too sure the few pounds will make or break a weekend warrior truck in most cases. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


Rick

I did not know if our 7,000 lb trucks would be ok using the 3,500 lb rule? I guess 11.99 and 11.49 are the basic factors, not really weight? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif I wonder what will happen when Super Diesels truck hits the 9.99 mark? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif





Burner-----------> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

They'll call for titanium and protective foam injection. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Rick

IHRA ROLL BARS: All roll bars must be within 6" of the rear, or side, of the drivers head, extend in height at least 3" above the driver in normal driving position, and at least as wide as the drivers shoulders or within 1" of the drivers door. Must be supported an cross braced to prevent collapse. Braces must be of the same diameter and thickness as the roll bar and intersect at the roll bar at a point not more than 5" from the top of the roll bar. Side bar must be included on driver side. The side bar must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar welded to the frame.


All materials must be 1 3/4" od .118" mild steel or .083" CM tubing except the behind seat horiz. bar which is 1- 1/4"x.118 mild steel or .065 CM tubing.


Find someone that has dealt with local tech and chassis inspections before. Your local track may have their own (additional) guidlines as well. Most tracks wont hassle you too much about exact bar specs till you run 9.99 1/4 et's or faster which requires a full cage and chassis certification. Then they check bar material thickness and placement etc.

What about bolt-on's.....if the base is welded to the frame? It would be nice if you could "un-bolt" the cage and keep the inside clean. What I would worry about is a crash during normal driving...without a helmet. I think you would be more dammaged by the rollcage than the accident it's self. No one would want to drive around with a helmet on all the time. Then, I guess you could padd the thing and really look shabby....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Throw Up.gif Just gathering Idea's. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


BTW, thanks for the input. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


I still think we will see many trucks breaking the 11.999 mark. Who knows.........

Burner Wrote:What about bolt-on's.....if the base is welded to the frame?


I dont know. I have never seen a weld/bolt on roll bar in ANY race vehicle. Find a chassis shop or custom car builder near you and talk to them. Most should be happy to answer questions for people wanting to go faster. (potential business)


All roll bars are "supposed" to be padded anywhere the driver can contact them anyway. Also all welds are to be left alone no grinding or sanding so they can be inspected if necessary. You will need other safety items, driveshaft loop. nos markes in the outside of the truck. The rule book will help alot.


Look on IHRA or NHRA websites and get a rulebook. These issues can be very confusing and mistakes costly.


1 more thing. Whatever pipe you decide to use, DO NOT take the supply house word for it - have the pipe tested to make sure it is the proper thickness.Edited by: Tony

I was thinking of the sleved set-up. Kinda like the ones the ...?... road course cars have. I need more info....I'll make a few calls.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Burner---------> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif