Let me begin with stating that if it weren't for the auto hobby shop lift (great retirement privilege at a dollar fifty per hour) I'd have stopped about half way through and burned the truck to the ground.

I removed the filter adapter and replaced the o-rings all of which showed some level of damage from heat. The lines themselves didn't exactly align with the old ones - the whole reason I went with them - so the next set will be custom.

I was very diligent in avoiding spilling oil even when I cut the aluminum tubes by the cooler. When I removed the connections at the cooler, it dropped about a quart of oil but of course it fell down into the front bumper. I one point, one of the shop attendants came by and said, "Say...you've got an oil leak on your bumper. I don't think I've ever seen that." I used a four hour round trip to OKC to blow the oil out of the bumper and lube my paintjob.

There is a easier way to get all that oil off of there, but it costs $4500.

FYI - final fit on new pipes\lines is usually up to the installer - due to shipping and (mis-)handling considerations.

Good job on the R&R.

BTW- you're in good company on the protective coating operation - many turn-of-the-century vehicles still survive due to the oily sheen lovingly applied by those early 1900's owners.

Having cut the aluminum tube so easily, all I could picture was "gently" bending the tube into the plastic retaining clamp and having it fold up and snap. I opted for about 12 oz of zip ties.

Yeah, I got out of the truck at OKC and was glad no oil was dripping vertically but it sure looked like the engine was running a constant loss system.

so one of my lines is leaking where the metal and rubber hose is crimped.....instead of replacing would I be able to cut the metal hose and slide the rubber one on to the metal and use some clamps to hold it down....I have already started a thread with this but didnt get too far......Is there too much pressure in those lines to blow the rubber hose off???

I think a fair observation would be that the hose isn't much less fatigued than the aluminum clamp. Why risk it? Search for oil line threads. There are vendors that provide a more flexible, sophisticated replacement to the factory lines with a larger cooler for a reasonable price.

Dan, I am next in line to replace the pesky oil filter adapter O-rings:( . First, thanks for the part numbers, this list is great!:) Second, oil cooler lines I did 2 yrs back are dryz-a-bone:D .

Questions: 1) must I remove the front driveshaft to do this? Did you Dan? 2) I am way early on a full-synth Rotella change, how MUCH oil would I dump doing this? Can I jack up the left to minimize oil loss? Thanks!

Bob,

The oil cooler lines are much easier to replace if you drop the front driveshaft. It's only four bolts and it's easy. Don't sweat it. Access is everything.... Makes the job much easier.

Jake

I didn't drop it but probably would have if I'd thought about it. There's a world more room there. Compared to pulling the inner fender to get to the glowplugs on the passenger side, it's easy.

I would put in a remote oil filter housing right away. I wanted to do this but it never happened. So I go to change the oil and "yea the oil lines are in the way" So it is now A tight fit.. I do have some pics on my web site if ya want to check them out.