I looked through my trusty hanes manual and found out that dark green or gray is power for "illumination" on the headlight switch but I tried to use the tester but apparently i blew a fuse, lond story short is where and which wire is best to be used for "illumination" on gauges that works with the headlight switch?

Look in your convenience center - comes from the dimmer for the instrument lighting

Just put all your positives and negatives into one wire (from the lights) and put the negatives to a good ground under the steering wheel and the positives into fuse 14. They will dim with your switch, and come on when you turn your light nob. I just used some green wire I had laying around.

Jacob

Get yourself one of these little do-hickeys

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32276&d=1168915533

It's an "add-a-fuse" which should be available at any auto parts store. I picked up 2. One for the lights, plugged into fuse 14 as Jacob indicated" and one to power my trans and pyro gauges. It worked like a charm. You just remove the existing fuse, plug in the add a fuse, put the fuse back into the add a fuse (you might have to run a second fuse in the add a fuse to make it work, it's covered in the instructions). Join positive wires to pigtail of add a fuse, negative wire to a good ground and you're all set.

Dave

That looks like a winner, I wish I had have thought of that before I spliced into two wires lol.... what is the best pyro gauge kit for the price??? I just dont see spending almost $200 on one...

I don't know if there is a "best". Lots of guys use and like different ones. I bought an AutoMeter Ultra like for $115. If you'd like the contact info for where I bought it, send me a PM.

Dave

is that a kit or just the gauge?

I got the same exact thing as Dave the Autometer Ultra-Lite 0-1600 pyro and 0-35psi boost gauge. Boost gauge was like $46, pyro was like $115, and pillar pod was $27 or $30. Got mine from summit racing, for both gauges, and the dual pod it was like $210. I also got a free summit racing hat with this order. I thought it was a pretty good deal. If you want any additional info on the gauges themselves feel free to PM me any time I would be glad to help.

Jacob

This is what they look like.


Jacob

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32484&d=1169400774

I just ordered the pillar mount but I need the gauge with the probe, ssdiesel has them on his site for 150 with everything, is the 115 for the whole shebang?

Yes, do you have any gauges ordered yet? I messed up from summit racing it was xxxfor the whole deal, it comes with the clamp to mount in the downpipe was well as everything else needed for pretty much anything you want to do with it. Here it is.

non site vendor link removed
Jacob

Mine was for the complete pyro kit. All wiring and probe included.

Dave

I already have a boost gauge but no pyro.... is the downpipe one a good idea? I realize you get a better reading pre-turbo but I guess its all the same just a lower reading....

Stupid question but how in the hell do you get to the pmd to remove it????

Make a tool that fits in there to unscrew the bolts.

Just put all your positives and negatives into one wire (from the lights) and put the negatives to a good ground under the steering wheel and the positives into fuse 14. They will dim with your switch, and come on when you turn your light nob. I just used some green wire I had laying around.

Jacob

did you mean to attatch the positive wires from the gauge light and the power for the little box both to fuse 14 or just the lighting, and if so then what would be the best place to attach the power for the little box (gauge amp)

did you mean to attatch the positive wires from the gauge light and the power for the little box both to fuse 14 or just the lighting, and if so then what would be the best place to attach the power for the little box (gauge amp)

Gauge lights only to fuse 14.

Power for the gauge to "any switched power source".

Just like I told you in the other thread.

If you are running multiple gauges you can put all the light + together and all the - together. + to fuse 14, - to a good ground.

Same if you're running multiple gauges that require 12V to operate.

Dave

Gauge lights only to fuse 14.

Power for the gauge to "any switched power source".

Just like I told you in the other thread.

If you are running multiple gauges you can put all the light + together and all the - together. + to fuse 14, - to a good ground.

Same if you're running multiple gauges that require 12V to operate.

Dave


Exactly

Seems like this one is covered in the FAQ even with pics IIRC

Seems like this one is covered in the FAQ even with pics IIRC

Yep and I gave him the link in the other thread he started with the same question.

I guess he just doesn't believe me....sniff, sniff. :)

Dave

The problem with the FAQ is it identifies fuse #16 or #15.

It it definitely #14. The faq should be corrected Doc. (Don't think this is model or year specific.)

The problem with the FAQ is it identifies fuse #16 or #15.

It it definitely #14. The faq should be corrected Doc. (Don't think this is model or year specific.)

Thanks I'll go fix that now, FFS at play (fat finger syndrome) :o: or to lazy to go verify before posting

before you start making me out to look like a COMPLETE;) idiot... I own a 94 which should be in my signature now, after someone pointed out to me how very useful that is so people know what year and model you have so they don't give you useless info. anyways, i do not have a numbered fuse block, instead it has abbreviated words like 'CTSY' for instance, which should power my dome light among other things, so i suppose this would be the proper fuse to tap into. As for actual power for the pyro I think i will just tap off of the radio as it is easily accessible.

Use the fuse called 'Instrument Panel' to tap for the lights...this way they will dim with your cluster lights....

before you start making me out to look like a COMPLETE;) idiot... I own a 94 which should be in my signature now, after someone pointed out to me how very useful that is so people know what year and model you have so they don't give you useless info. anyways, i do not have a numbered fuse block, instead it has abbreviated words like 'CTSY' for instance, which should power my dome light among other things, so i suppose this would be the proper fuse to tap into. As for actual power for the pyro I think i will just tap off of the radio as it is easily accessible.

If you knew that, why did you ask....Geez I'm starting to sound like gmctd.:eek: :D

Sorry but I don't know what the fuse panel on a 94 looks like. I think the jist of it was you needed to hook the lights to a fuse the came on and off when the lights turned on and off and the power to a fuse that came on when the key was turned on. My fuse panel is numbered but then there is a little legend inside the cover. I read the legend, found the number and went from there. Simple!

Sometimes when you're pointed in the right direction, you might have to do a little navigating yourself.

Let us know how you made out when you've got it all done.

Dave

sorry on my last post i meant the gauge fuse not the Ctsy. and ya i've been kinda figuring this out as i go along. i just tapped into the gauge fuse and it turned on but did not dim. then i started tapping off of each wire that came out of the light switch and the dimmer itself, they all turned the gauge light on, but did not dim. right now my cluster isn't even attatched so i'm going to run outside and rehook it back and then try again.

Use the fuse called 'Instrument Panel' to tap for the lights...this way they will dim with your cluster lights....

I have no fuse called intrument panel. the only one that has any of the cluster gauges on it is called 'gages'

ok so i just connected this gauge to every wire in the back of the cluster harness, every wire in the light and dimmer switch harness, and the gauge fuse in the fuse block, and nothing will dim this light. HELP! hahaha

when i tried hooking it into the actual light switch, the gauge light would only go on when the other switches turned off, almost as if they drew all the power away from the gauge light, which i found very strange.

Did you go get the add-a-fuse things?

If you did, I don't see how you can't get them working.

Dave

no, i did not get the add a fuse, what it looked like to me was just an extension of the fuse holder so that you could attatch another wire onto it, tell me if i'm wrong, if it is as i think it is,then i don't see how that would be any different from just touching the wire the the fuse.

It might not be any different but it takes all the guess work out. It worked for me and lots of other guys on the site. Something you're doing isn't working.

Dave

Well - I have a 94 and mine are tapped into the fuse labelled 'inst pnl' (instrument panel)....mine dim properly....

thats strange that yours has a different fuse panel than mine, even though mines a 2500. i do have one called 'panel lps' im gunna go try that one, its only a 5 amp, what amp was urs

You are right.....'panel lps' is the correct one....I knew it had 'panel' in it....I think mine is a 10A fuse in there....not sure...I haven't looked at my fuse block since I installed my gauges many moons ago...

ok i got it, it was the 'Panel LPS' for the dimmer and I used the gauge fuse to give ignition power to the pyro's amp. thanx a lot for all the help, this has been quite the head ache lol

ok i got it, it was the 'Panel LPS' for the dimmer and I used the gauge fuse to give ignition power to the pyro's amp. thanx a lot for all the help, this has been quite the head ache lol, I don't know how this works for adding this info to the faq because you probably don't need this whole post in there, but the info on the right fuse for the 94 might be useful to add to that other thread that dave12 had sent me.