:mad:

The year 2007 sucks.....

1. Dad's 6.5 blew a head/gasket (I think) and I will need to fix that during spring break (Feb 12 - 19)

2. My truck blew a crossover gasket/pipe so I need to replace that ASAP

3. Last night my truck (used by my Dad) either cracked the radiator or else the drain plug went bad on it......need to fix that today....I'm hoping its just that little plug.....truck was driven with extremely high ECTs....hoping nothing cracked/warped....

4. Last night my wife's 2000 Jimmy started squeaking at the front right tire....I got out and pulled the tire towards me to see if the hub assembly was shot.....tire moved towards me about a 1/4 inch.....great....time for a new assembly during spring break....

5. The brakes/hydroboost need to be looked at on my truck....with the engine running and the vehicle in park, if you push with a bit of effort the brake pedal will sink right to the floor....needs to be looked at during spring break.....


Sorry.....needed to vent a little....no wonder I get wholesale pricing at the dealership.....look at how often I have to go there......kind of like Cheers where everybody knows my name (and vehicles)....:rolleyes:

Wow that sucks man but i def feel your pain....

In one week ...

-My brakes went out on my old truck

-Broke an axle in it 3 days after that

-My mother busted the plastic on the seat of our 04 Trailblazer(which involved a trip to the chevy garage:cool: )

- My dads front wheel bearing went in his 98 Blazer

So all in all its no where near as bad as yours but it was a rough week

You two sound like a bad country song...

...but I am sorry you're having issues with your trucks.

Just remember:
- it's always darkest just before it gets pitch black.
- the light at the end of the tunnel is an oncoming train

and other encouraging thoughts. Having a positive attitude won't help your situation at all, but it will annoy enough people to make it worthwhile.

Seriously, aren't you glad you don't have a new truck? At least you can work on these yourself.

That's what I keep reminding myself when I'm busy cursing and throwing stuff around, anyway.

Sorry to hear what happened your trucks. Atleast the engine didnt go, it didnt right?

Got my truck's cooling issue fixed....the little plug at the bottom of the rad (driver's side) had an o-ring on it go bad.....replaced with new and improved plug and it is good to go...no bubbles in the overflow while running, upper rad hose does not get hard at initial startup...doesn't smoke once warmed up...engine must have survived the high temps....should be ok...and if not, Peninsular will be getting a call....

I tried to take the crossover off of the truck with a 3/8 ratchet and a 2 foot snipe.....no deal....I need to back it into the shop next weekend and hit it with some heat and the impact....if that doesn't work I will go ahead and get the local muffler shop to do it....

All kinds of fun!

I fought mine for a little while. Then I took the sawsall to it and cut the pipe down short enough to get a socket with shorter extension on it.

Used a piece of the crossover as a cheater pipe. Came right off.

That's the proper way to do it.:)

I just did the crossover on my truck here a couple months ago. With a lot of heat, and a little luck, half of them came out, and the rest broke off. A couple minutes with vice grips and the torch got the broken bits out. The bolts are M10. Have a new set handy along with a big tub of anti-seize.

Be careful not to light it on fire as you play around the air filter...

Got my truck's cooling issue fixed....the little plug at the bottom of the rad (driver's side) had an o-ring on it go bad.....replaced with new and improved plug and it is good to go...no bubbles in the overflow while running, upper rad hose does not get hard at initial startup...doesn't smoke once warmed up...engine must have survived the high temps....should be ok...and if not, Peninsular will be getting a call....

I tried to take the crossover off of the truck with a 3/8 ratchet and a 2 foot snipe.....no deal....I need to back it into the shop next weekend and hit it with some heat and the impact....if that doesn't work I will go ahead and get the local muffler shop to do it....

All kinds of fun!

[quote=chrisk1500;1567975;]
I tried to take the crossover off of the truck with a 3/8 ratchet and a 2 foot snipe.....no deal....I need to back it into the shop next weekend and hit it with some heat and the impact....if that doesn't work I will go ahead and get the local muffler shop to do it....
[quote]

DON'T use the impact ... unless you're one of those wierd people that LIKES drilling out studs in the manifold.

Use a torch on the nut ... heat it up until bright red (try not to get the stud red too) and then unscrew the nut with a 3/8" drive socket.

If it gets all tight again, let it cool off (you don't want the stud to get too hot or you can twist it off like taffy), then heat up the nut again and trun it the rest of the way off.

Never had one fail to come off using the hot wrench.

Can't beat a hot wrench, but in this case I think Chisk will need to heat the manifold. GM in thier wisdom decided to use bolts that go into the manifold. The impact isn't a bad idea if you keep the air pressure down. I had to heat up the manifold red hot next to the bolt then hit it with a electric 1/2 impact, it can only put out 150 ftlbs but I don't think I would have got them out without the impact. I was lucky and none broke, but was probably close to it.

Hit it first with some PBlaster, comes right out.

hit the bolts with some kind of spray lube or penetrating oil the take them out with an impact with the torque turned down useing a long extension will take more torque off the bolts. works for me every time

X2 on the PBblaster. If they are really rusty, spray it on the day before and let it sit.

It seems that all of the Americans are saying to use PBblaster.....is that available in Canada?

Good old WD40 should work I would think....

I intend on using the torch to heat up the manifold and then try the impact on its lowest setting....if the bolts break....I'll be calling jifaire so he can help me take them out....lol....

Yeah WD-40, do it the Canadian way!

See if you guys can get PBblaster up there in Canada. I disassemble lots of rusty construction machinery, and I've tried every penetrating product available. IMO, nothing even comes close.

I checked PB blasters website, I thought if I seen a can maybe it would ring a bell but can't say as I've ever seen thier product. They say thier distributors are NAPA and Walmart which we have up here. I'll take a look next chance. I worked for and owned a salt buisness for 20 years so I'm always on the lookout for a good penetating oil. LOL

Chris I used to own the salt plant next to Patience lake 12 miles east of Saskatoon on highway 5 towards Humbolt, maybe you drove by it? If you break a bolt Chris let me know I've had lots of experience getting rusty siezed bolts out.

I'm sure I have driven past it before.....I actually live in Saskatoon at the moment....

Wal-Mart should have it in canada.

Hate to burst the Canadians bubble but WD-40 is also an American product.:cool:

Either will probably work but PB Blaster does it faster.

OFF topic, but I personally use a product called aero kroil, works well , very well and they will ship to canada, worth every penny

Yea, if you can get it, the Peanut Butter-Blaster is the Shiznit, WD-40 cant hold a candle to it, its prolly not the best stuff out there, but for the price and availability it is, I've done some amazing stuff with it.

Actually I was thinking about spraying down my frame with it.

My exhaust manifold looks like new where it got on it.

I used "Liquid Wrench" Super Penetrating spray (from Canadian Tire).

Maybe it's time to get some Jig-a-Loo!

I used "Liquid Wrench" Super Penetrating spray (from Canadian Tire).

Maybe it's time to get some Jig-a-Loo!

LOL....maybe I should buy a can of that stuff....I think Canadian Tire has it...

No luck finding any PB Blaster at a Canadian Napa. store.

Got to be a market for some brand there. See what kind of penetrating oil they have, it should work.

I just got back from WalMart....the choices were: WD 40, Jig a Loo, and Liquid Wrench (yellow and blue can)....

I chose the yellow can of Liquid Wrench because it is the only one that claimed to be able to 'free rusted bolts and parts'...

I never heard of Jig A Loo. I'll have to see if it's available here. Maybe its better??? Liquid Wrench should work for you.

Liquid wrench worked for me, like chrisk1500 said it says it's penetrating oil (spray)!