Hey Guys,


Love my DMax to death, but the huge gap between the rear fenders and the tire has got to go..I know its for when you have weight,but I put a 8k boat on there and it moved maybe 1/2-1in...


I love the gangsta look..where the rear is dropped a lil more than the front.....so here's where I need help..


W/ the Shakle and Hanger I get 4in drop..w/ the Flip Kit I get 8in drop...Now...with the 8in drop when I load a,lets say 10k boat...will I rub frame even w/ the notch kit?Or naaa?


I want to go w/ the 22.5's to fill out the fenderwells,but not for a while..cause I'll need about $2200..so thats why I'll drop her for now..Plus cuz, "The Chicks Dig It" lol





Thanks Guys,


Joe

so thats why I'll drop her for now..Plus cuz, "The Chicks Dig It" lol
Must be different women around your area, because up here they "dig" the real mens trucks (and those aren't lowered http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif).

lol...Well if she was 4wheel drive it'll go up...And it will go up when i can afford to mount some 22.5 alcola's..but w/ the stock 16's and all that gap?Just ain't cuttin it..I could run some 38's in the rear w/ no lift...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Hell if I had a CC Dually that was 2WD, I would slam it..... Why not, it would look cool, maybe run the 19.5 Alcoas..... Not sure about running 22.5's, but hey to each their own...

bump....


Hey Guys...if i do the flip kit..i need to notch the frame...Would it take any of my towing strenght out?

bump....


Hey Guys...if i do the flip kit..i need to notch the frame...Would it take any of my towing strenght out?

Yes, it will reduce the frame strength a fair bit. Are you sure you still need to notch the frame? I think the diff hits the bed before the axle gets to the frame.

Anyway, have the top of the notch plated to give the frame back it's rigidity.

Hey Bro,


LOL...sry for the dumb question..But what do ya mean by plated?

Reinforced w/ larger plates to gain the strength back.

You can either have a lower flange put back on the frame or have the cut sandwiched between plates to thicken the area around the cut. Depending how much is notched, you may even need to have that section boxed in to get the strength back.

Reinforced w/ larger plates to gain the strength back.


You have still damaged the structural integrity of the frame and just adding plates and welding it will not get that back IIRC... It will still have its weak points when it comes to towing now...

I wouldnt lower it so much to where you have to notch the frame, if you do, I sure wouldnt be towing with it. I would just get the shackle and hanger kit, which will probably require you to take you overloads off or move them up. Then you could take at least one leaf out of your pack. I would think the best way would be to make it full airbag rear suspension, but that would be expensive. You could always put regular airbags on for when you pull your boat, that would allow you to take more springs out, which would lower it.

Also, I dont think 22.5's are going to fit with it lowered. 19.5's with a 225/70R19.5 tire would probably fit on a lowered one though.Edited by: White Duramax

Reinforced w/ larger plates to gain the strength back.


You have still damaged the structural integrity of the frame and just adding plates and welding it will not get that back IIRC... It will still have its weak points when it comes to towing now...

The problem is the Hydo-formed frame. It has some "odd" characteristics when it comes to welding. In general, drill the web, never touch the flang. You can get the strength back, it just isn't obvious to the uninclined. Without knowing the depth of the notch I can't be sure what is the best approach.

Not notching is, of course, is the best.

Ok...sounds like a Shakle and Hanger kit w/ taking a leaf out..will be the way to go....(i dunno why..but i love the sagged rear look..lol)


W/ the Hanger kit..don't i have to knock the rivets out of the hanger and use bolts for the new one?


Thanks Guys...


Oh and if i went w/ 22.5's I'd prolly lift it back to stock for that..And yes..bags will be on the way a few yrs from now..http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Ok...sounds like a Shakle and Hanger kit w/ taking a leaf out..will be the way to go....(i dunno why..but i love the sagged rear look..lol)


W/ the Hanger kit..don't i have to knock the rivets out of the hanger and use bolts for the new one?


Thanks Guys...


Oh and if i went w/ 22.5's I'd prolly lift it back to stock for that..And yes..bags will be on the way a few yrs from now..http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Yes, you have to grind the rivits off. The bolts should come with the kit. Grade 5 at least. Make sure you go back and retorque the bolts after romping around for a day or two.