Not really down on power but she is blowing black smoke pretty good. Thats the code i think its throwing anyway. Boost sensor 1 outa range I think it said? Wastegate is getting vaccume at idle, duno how much....need to remember to get a #. Yanked to boost sensor and stuffed a gauge in its place, couldnt go on a road trip for fear of loseing my gauge so I put my foot on the brakes and held the trottle to the floor(sure the trany loved me for thathttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif) only got 3#'s


I read I should be getting 18-20" of vacume at idle to the waste gate. Need to check that I know.


Anyother things i should look at or do I need to throw a new boost sensor on it?


Pretty clueless when it comes to 6.5'shttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif Probabaly would help if i bought a book but it aint my truckhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


TIAhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

Sensors seldom fail.





25"hg from pump. Vac at actuator will vary, but 15-20" is common. Wouldn't hurt to check the actuator for leaks also.





Most common failure is the WG solenoid provided the vac pump and lines are good.

Thanks....some things to check out anywho.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

The boost guage is so you can monitor boost levels while you're driving. If the guage isn't showing any boost you're bypassing it somewhere.


as kennedy said From wg system or anywhere from the turbo inlet housing to the lower intake manifold gasket. Oil would be spilling out anywhere it's leaking.

I have a snapon vaccume/pressure gauge. I yanked the boost sensor just because theat was a convienent place to stick the dude and jambed it into its hole. I was just curious to see what kinda boost it was making. 3#'s with it fully stalled against the converter.


The stubby rubber hose that goes between the upper intake and the turbo had some oil and I assumed the leak was there. Yanked it and it had already been slathered with RTVhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif Couldnt find another hose anywere in town so i knocked off the chunks and reRTVed it since the truck had to go out. I cleared the codes and went to dinner, figured they would take it out. Wrong, I ended up being stuck in it and didnt notice as much smoke but it was 2am and I was stuck working since 2 of my dads mutant employees called in was up since 430 am the day before, i wasnt the the sharpest tool in the shed by that point and it coulda been blowing red smoke and I may have missed it. It did set off the SES light againhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif It also got a gasket between the upper and lower intake.

My suggestion would be to equip the truck with a boost gauge and pyro. This way, trends can be established, and if it drifts from the norm, you can see it happen rather than just observe smoke signals, or power/response.





They use some funky silicone on those hoses. I typically peel it out and run them dry.

I thought it was some master mechanics "fix".


I need to rig something up to actauly see what the boost is running.


Power and response is also hard to judge since I am used to my juiced duramax and its a stock 99 6.5 C3500 sweeper truck(aka big heavy hoover on wheels/garbage sucker) It seems inline with what a heavy pig like it should do though. Smooth power and it seems pretty snappy for what it is.


Snapon scanner reads boost in kpa and its a messed up #. mostly reads 100 droping a bit to 97 or so sometimes bouncing up a bit. I wasnt sure if it was the scanner just not reading things(some valuse it seems to be screwed on i have seen) or if the boost sensor was fried. baromteric pressure reading a normal range 28" or something? Cant quite remember. Probably shoulda mentioned that beforehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

102 Kpa is the stock MAP measurement. it's about 15-16 psi (15 atmospheric + 1-2 psi boost) baro should read 15 psi also.


That rippled hose going into the turbo inlet from the crankcase is the CDR return and it spills oil if the condensing mesh in the valve cover is clogged with oil. Remove the tin can (CDR) and solvate it with carb cleaner, but let it evaporate before you crank it. but since thid hose comes in preturbo it isn't your boost leak. The area you need absolute pressure seal in is the turbo to the engine through the intake manifold.

so if its reading 100 at idel? It thinks its making about 15# at idel?


What hell is a kpa? Must not be what I was thinking it was then....soo many acronyms and measuments, you got psi and psig and atmosperic pressure and absoulute pressure , short tons and imperial tons, inches or murcury and inches of water widgets and thingamagigs.......http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


I know shes gota be tight from the turbo to the heads, only visible sorce of leaks(oil) was sealed(I think) with a blob of RTV on the stubby hose after I cleaned the dude. Couldnt clean all the original sealer but did my best so I used some permatex to make shure, Think I got her selaedhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


Edit: My scanner lists it as BOOST(and thats the 100 number) and it shows baro pressure as what one would expect the baro pressure to be.....miss read ya, barro pressure is listed in " of water......or is it mercuryhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif cant remember but its reading normal....I think its mercury now that I think of it? I used to actually remember the conversion factor for " water to hg....nowhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifEdited by: ratlover

yeah,


Real close to 14.7. K Pa is kilo pascals. Blaise Pascal's maybe.


the MAP voltage should be 1.49v stock. a drop of .25v equals a drop of about 20 K Pa or 2-3 psi. I don't have the conversion values before me so this is my rounded guess.


I've seen my K Pa reading as high as 180 K Pa using 2 10k ohm resistors on ths curcuit(The green "B"wire off the MAP sensor). That could mean a much higher reading because the resistors make the MAP read lower than actual.


www.JCwhitney.com (http://www.JCwhitney.com) has a $16 dollar boost guage for mounting in the cab. I should buy one myself, just so i will have an independent source of boost measurement.

KPa is, as stated above, Kilo Pascals. A Pascal is another name for Newtons/meter^2... a pressure unit.


Multiply KPa by .145 to get psi.


100 KPa is 14.5 psi. The sensor is reading absolute pressure, so there is no boost being generated, as expected at idle.

27"wc = 2"hg = 1psi


Baro is PSIA


PSIG is Baro based Zero


Vac gage Zero is 30"hg = 15psi Baro


Vac gage 30"hg is 0.0psi Baro


At idle -


~25" at vac pump


~25" at WG solenoid, should read identical to pump


~15" from WG solenoid


~15" at WG actuator, should read identical to solenoid

So 180 K Pa was 11.7 psi sensed boost+14.5 atmosphere=26.1 psi total. (set on psi, I've seen 32psi) if you factor in I was resisting .35v , i'd extrapolate i can make the engine eat 14-15psi boost at the twist of the pot for short hill climbs. No wonder I was hitting 200+ deg IAT within 10 sec.


RJ,


When you resist the baro does it let you resist the MAP signal more before code 78?Edited by: quantum mechanic