I just purchased a duramax intercooler on eBay and will be installing it as soon as it arrives. I have seen a few posts with pictures, but how is the best way to install the setup?


Here is what I planned (based on info I found on this site and my own observations):
<UL>
<LI>I was going to take apart the front turbo housing and reinstall it to point it down, like I saw on someones post here.</LI>
<LI>Cut the upper intake manifold about six inches. </LI>
<LI>Mount the IC down low where the plastic skid plate was mounted on the front suspension.</LI>
<LI>Install a dual cooling fan to IC to assist in IC function at low speeds, with a dash switch to activate.</LI>
<LI>Run a combination of 3" plastic pipe and hose to connect it all up.</LI>
<LI>Use some header wrap on the hose and pipe to cut down on heat soak.</LI>[/list]


Does anyone have pics and advise?


Also I want to up the boost and fuel when this is complete. It currently runs at a max of 10 psi in OD, but around town and under hard accel it will only briefly peak at 10 psi and then drops to 6-7.


I have also noted that since I put on the 4" exhaust that it seems to run out of both boost and fuel and falls on its face above 2200 rpm. It feels like it wants more. I have a little bit of black smoke when I initially floor it but that is it.


I have seen several posts on the boost fooler, is there anyway to build one that is variable so I can dial in the best for my vehicle? Also which wires do I hook it up to?


How about something similiar to this http://www.duramax.bizhosting.com/My_Truck/boost_control.htm . Has anyone built their own boost and fuel controller? Willing to share that info?

Good steps, but start with an EGT gage - EGT is the life of your engine, when upgrading for performance.


Loosen scroll clamp bolts, housing will rotate easily after breaking RTV seal. Should reseal, but can be removed for cleanup and re-RTV.


Maintain 2.5" sizing on ducting to and from cooler - larger diameter than oem intake not required, and can detract from performance. 'Port-matching' the ducting works here, also.


Header wrap is for very high temps, won't insulate much from only 200deg - use foil lined fiberglass, as Ford does.


Or a combo of the two types.


If you have not, do a search on Texas Diesel Guy - read all his stuff on the DS4, including responses to questions on the FSD resistor.


Check also mdhorban's posts on same subject.


You may discover that there is no fuel controller - it's snake oil from a previous, and barred from here, member, goes by the forum-popular nickname of Ole Steak Sauce (A-1)


For a good upgrade, get a '98-'99 PCM from a local boneyard, install it in your truck for increased fuel and performance - 'bout a hundred bucks.


For a really 'bad' upgrade, you will need a hot flash, from Kennedy or Heath Diesel - tunes both engine and trans for real power.


Read my humorous post concerning wild rides, to get a sense of how the hot flash 80mm3 fuel rate will unleash your truck, along with the other proposed upgrades you are considering.


One final upgrade, which should be first if your '96 does not have it, is the '97 dual t-stat manifold, hi-flow 135gpm HD waterpump, and hi-output fan blade.


Gauranteed to keep that bad boy cool.


Try it - you'll like it......


Almost fergot (apologies, QM) - also read Quantum Mechanic's post on boost fooler constructionEdited by: gmctd

You don't have to buy a boost controller.


I find the fixed resister is best.


www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6834&amp;PN=10 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6834&amp;PN=10)

use foil lined fiberglass, as Ford does.


Do you know where to get this?


a previous, and barred from here, member, goes by the forum-popular nickname of Ole Steak Sauce (A-1).


I have to admit that he got me. When I was stranded in San Diego before I found the shorts in my PCM harness. I bought his remote PMD and harness thinking that my PMD was bad. Way overpriced at $650 and the harness was horribly done. In fact about a month ago I threw it away and made my own that was longer and of better quality. So I basically paid for a very expensive PMD. But I live and learn.

You don't have to buy a boost controller.


I find the fixed resister is best.


www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6834&amp;PN=10 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6834&amp;PN=10)





I read the post but isn't that a variable resistor, and did you ever try a 50K like you had talked about doing, if so how did it work? Also you said in the post you were working on a program for reprogramming the computer, have you ever completed that?

Ford - maybe some parts guy there knows the source, as they used it on all the Power Stroke Diesel trucks.


Think Summit, JEG's, JCWhitney, and such sells it.


The 50k resistor is not workable on available current, as sensor is working off +5v supply - no more than 10k, no less than 5k - does not require adjustment to full ground.Edited by: gmctd

www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11366&amp;PN=6 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11366&amp;PN=6)


A 50K takes the volt signal too low,as gmctd said. anything over 20K is too much. 10k fixed is a start. if you want more add a 10K pot switch. I did this in the opposite order.


I've not begun on the reprogram, hopefully a programming nut with a 6.5 will wonder in here. you see the hex code is encrypted and without decyphering it you're starting from negative scratch. atleast I would be.





gmctd, I ordered a boost guage kit ($25 JC_whitney)and 1/4"npt adjustable ($27 pliot supplies)pyro probe today. I'll tap pyro probe pre-turbo. I want honest readings when I make my next few mods.


home depot sells a insulated foil wrap for hotwater heater insulation.Edited by: quantum mechanic

The pyro probe must be Type K to be accurate with that gage - has yellow (+) and red (-) wires.


Good move - you'll like it.


To really see what's going on, put an extra 1/8"npt tap in the exhaust, plumb in separate 60psi pressure gage for Exhaust Back Pressure - watch how it soars much higher than Boost.


I saw over 22psi for 8psi Boost - not good, cause gage was only 20psi, could not tell actual max value achieved.

I like that idea because one of the mods I want to do is replacing the GM4 turndown with a 5" downpipe and I can't think of a better way to quantify my results. I'm going to loosen the mounts and lift the engine to put it in.


The most common guage seems to be the "k" type as far as gas engine aircraft anyway. They run one on each exhaustport.Edited by: quantum mechanic

You could do that on the -4 because the wastegate is in the center cartridge casting. -5 and later got the 'gate in the exh elbow.


Even if you run 5", won't do much good because the problem is pre-elbow - the bottleneck is the turbine wheel, housing and wastegate sizing.


They'e sized for a ~250-300cuin engine - gets spool-up quick off-idle, where a work truck needs the torque but exhaust energy is low.


As increasing rpm builds heat and volume, the small turbine becomes a high back pressure choke.


GM limited Boost to ~7-8psi to hold down IAT's and EBP, both of which result in high EGT's, and high warranty problems.


PCM tries to pull Boost first. If unsuccessful - wastegate stuck or bypassed - will pull fuel, which cuts Boost no matter what wg is doing.


You'll like the gages, wondering how you ever got along without them.

Yeah, I know. Which brings us back to d'oh! I already did what I could for the exhaust turbine housing and I'm sure you've heard me rant about twinturbos and custom intake/exhaust. Although I'd like to see what a balanced exhaust, bigger nonwastegated single turbo, intercooling and intake mods would do.


I wonder what happened to Darren Payne and his 400 hp 6.5 build.

I finally got my intercooler and as you can see it is too big for my planned installation, where the stock skid plate is located.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/23A_intercooler.jpg


I thought I would move the radiator back about 2" and put it in between the radiator and condensor, pretty much the same way it is installed in the duramax.


Has anyone installed one there? Any advice or tips before I dig in to it? Any problems with the fan being too close? Right now there is 3-4" between fan blade and radiator.

I'd very much like to see how you get that crammed in there, possibly two slim electric fans instead of the belt driven one would allow more clearance to move the rad.

Someone on the dieselpage put one there. I think they said that they had to modify the inlet and outlet on the intercooler because they were a little too close together to fit on each side of the radiator.

I saw a post on doing this(The page?) and that's what the guy did to fit it. He ran two electric fans and moved the radiator back two inches. Take pictures so we can all see.

Move condenser forward far as possible, radiator back remainder.


Trim any plastic or brackets for grille to make room, even try lowering condenser to clear hood latch, etc....

Is it sapposed to have the inlet/outlet low like pictured? or can you flip it to where the inlet/outlet is on top facing the engine?

Custom installation - flip to suit......

I can put it which ever way is best. I won't really know until I tear into it. I think I am going to wait a bit until I can get a mig welder available to make new brackets and I thinkI am going to try making a new upper intake manifold that points diagonally towards the drivers front. I have the concept in my head I'll just have to see if it will actually work. So it may be a month or so before I get it done but I will take lots of pictures of what I do.


I think I may have almost enough space by removing the radiator mount supports that crisscross between the condensor and radiator and building some kind of support that connects to the IC once installed. I have looked at it and at the top there is about 3" of space but only about 1-1.5" at the bottom. I will document everything I do and try for the group discussion.

Have you made any progress on the intercooler install? What your were proposing is exactly what I would like to do. Who else has the dual electric fans, and does it cool enought? Is it better or equal to a heavy duty fan clutch?