At what temp dose fuel gell and if it has already gelled what should you do

Depends on your fuel blend as to what temp. it will gel. If it has try adding Powerservice 911 to your fuel tank and filter as per the directions. You should also get the vehicle into a warmer environment if possible (garage). You can change the filter if that is all plugged up and fuel flow is restricted.

Good luck! Tim

911 and change fuel filter would be my SOP. Most gelling occurs in the fuel filter, 911 will clear anything else.

I carry one of each with me during the winter months

just geled my truck for the first time. it sucked! had to put 911 in the system and some #1 diesel, also changed the fuel filters and i was good to go

how cold is it there its only 23 here and not for sure if i should be worried are not

23 should be fine even for straight #2. Put in some Power Service in the white bottle or other anti-gell aditive for some peace of mind and you should be good to atleast the low teens.

If she does jell on you get her in a warm enviroment if possible, change the fuel filter if possible, definatly dump a bunch of additive in there(I would start with just a ton of regular additive). Keeping the truck running will put heat in the fuel, mix your fuel and additive, and burn the crap fuel out. Fill it with known good fuel too. If the fuel is very nasty and none of the above works pump out all the fuel you can, fill her with fresh, let her run, change the filter and keep her running and dumping fresh fuel and a heavy additive mix in there.

Once you gell you realy should change the filter ASAP even if you get her running OK.

JMO

How do you know if you gell and or possibly bad fuel? Truck can run like crap(ussualy low power, could be stalling), may throw a code(light) and when you try the water drain on the fuel filter(always drain in a clear container so you can inspect) you may get water, or even nothing if the thing globs up solid on you. Symptoms may also be intermitent.

It can happen all of a sudden when you get a cold snap and let your truck sit or it may happen more gradually if you get some dirty fuel(or fuel that is very cleansing and knocks all the crap in your tank lose and into your filter) If its a sediment problem then keep additive package high, and keep changing the filter as needed and adding fresh fuel.

Also be carefull when working with cold fuel. If the fuel is liquid it may still bet 10*. 10* liquid on a cold windy day on your hand can be bad news.

If you get crap fuel hopefully you have your recipt and can go raise hell at the station you bought fuel from. ;)

additional reading I found by seaching this forum for the word "gell" http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128485
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66786
Threads found by searching "kerosene"
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77197
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106583
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34519

So what has everyone else done if they have had a truck gell on em? Last time I had the issue I was about to put a few gallons of kerosene in the tank instead of diesel but I was able to get her running fine.

Just put in a double dose of anti-gel, let it sit for a bit, and changed the fuel filter. Fired right up and not another problem.

Had this happen to my buddy the other day. He is running HHO with 10% WVO blended in. Our weather here has been so warm, we all forget about the gelling issue. One 5 degree night changed that. My truck that had pump #2 and 10% WVO didn't gell so the additives in the pump fuel, must be the difference. We put 16 ozs. of propanol in the tank and maybe 1-2 oz. in the fuel filter cavity thru the bleed hole on top along with some fresh #2. Before you guys all yell at me, guess what Rescue 911 is made of?

I've been running diesel in Illinois since 1990 and before that in the tractors. I've never gelled. I've always used Power Service in the white bottle. I called Power Service when I started using 11% soy. They said to double dose the tanks and I'd be fine. I also use Amsoils new lubricity additive since the new low sulfer diesel has come out. I put the addiitives in my 500 gal tank before filling it.

This may help...depending on your BD source:

http://www.duffscience.com/bd_calculators.htm

:)

How can I tell if my fuel has gelled?

How can I tell if my fuel has gelled?


Haven't had any experiance with Duramax, as we haven't had severe weather in N.E. since 2001 when we got our 1st one. When I had a 6.9 Ford, it would lose rpm at high speed during severe cold. Slow down and it would come back. Sort of like a wind chill effect. Bring it home slowly, put it in a warm shop, next day, all's well. On our Cummins, it would not run again, until it was warmed and each injector was bled.

It Also helps to keep you tank full. Reduces condensation.

How can I tell if my fuel has gelled?

Take a look at some of the posts above like mine witch is number 7:)

In general it will just run like crap ):h Mild will be low power or coding when your heavy on the throttle or running higher RPMs.....more sever would be stalling, or dieing or just not starting in the first place. It may act like ytou are real low on fuel and running out.

I am 98% sure I gelled this morning, :(

It was -7* when I left the house... about 4 miles away from the house, I get a "limp". Pulling away from a light it surges, sets a light on the dash... Now I cant get over 2000RPM. Guess I need to run to the parts store to get some 911 and a filter, :(

This is my first tank of B20 too, :(

(2500 miles on her as well) Does this sound like gelling or could it be something else?

Sure sounds like jelling, Halfbyte.

I just have a heater that magnetically mounts to the filter. Got it at a truck stop. Had to use it once one night in Canada. Plugged it in for half an hour and started up a little rough but ran fine then. I think I payed 20 bucks for the heater.

Sounds like it. If you can(room in the tank) fill it up with some good old strait diesel(no bio) and get it from a high turn over place.

Also a sock and those little hand warmers can make a make shift filter heater in a pinch. Duno if it would work but it wont hurt if your on the side of the road SOL.

If its Bio you'll need to drain and replace with reg diesel. The Bio does not mix well cold. I had the same thing happen with what was supposed to be B20 at 15 deg. My filter was plugged with "chunks" of the Bio which was in with 10 gallons ulsd and 1 quart of Power Service. I had topped off the day before and had put on 20 miles or so and it still didn't mix well. Its probable that I had a "rogue" batch or some straight Bio since our supplier was blending his own.

Well it ended up getting towed to the dealer, they claimed it was a clogged filter. Changed the filter and I have ran strong ever sense... Got a spare in the cab with tools to change it if she clogs again.

The dealer said I didn't gel just had clogged filter.

Well I was dumb enough to go back to that same station and fill'er up again...

Filter number 2 just bit the dust, :(

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
Albert Einstein

:D

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
Albert Einstein

:D

I know I know... but I was hoping it was....



Fine I will give it up... now to run her dry and pump her full of #2

Hopefully my supplier will get his act together. My truck ran smoother and quieter with the Bio and I like the smell too. I'm going to run the Bio in the warmer months till they get the cold weather blend figured out.

Bio will have a "cleaning" property I hear. So it may be knocking lose any nasy stuff in your tank and lines and will take a bit to clean her all out.

Bio will have a "cleaning" property I hear. So it may be knocking lose any nasy stuff in your tank and lines and will take a bit to clean her all out.

I started with Biodiesel about three years ago.. then switched to WVO. Biodiesel is an uber detergent and will clean all of the soot out of the tanks and fuel lines and deposit them in the fuel filter. WVO does the same thing and, if unheated before entering the fuel filter, can clog it even faster than biodiesel.
After about 6 or 7 thousand miles the lines and tanks are fairly clean and, if preheating the WVO before the fuel filter, everything is back to normal... But in the beginning the fuel filter must be regularly changed.

*bump*
Fall then winter will be here before you know it.

Several years ago, when they were first developing the Bio, they sent a vial of it out to our local elevator, it happened to be in the winter, so to see what happened, they set it out on the window sill outside overnight. In the morning it was really cloudy, hazy. You could barely see light through it. It never did change back to the clear it was before at all, it just stayed cloudy.

Hopefully they have changed the formula since then. I've never tried to run the bio, it's only available at one station close to me, and last time I looked, it was about a dime higher than #2.

Wax crystals will start to form at around 15*. I use Stanadyne Performance Formula, and it's outstanding stuff !!!
You can get it at genosgarage.com

16 oz. treats 60 gallons

Pemium, all season, multi-functiondiesel fuel additive

Reduces diesel pour point up to 40*F, and cold filter plug point by up to 25*F, depending on base fuel.

Lubricants and cetane improver help when fuel is hot and "thin".

Reduces smoke and particulate emissions, and is suitable for ultra low sulfer diesel.

Contains no alcohol; avoids corrosion and accelerated wear.

Demulsifiers cause tiny water droplets to come out of suspension/emulsion so the filter/seperator can more effectively remove water.

This additive is awesome and well worth it....Diesel engines aren't cheap....I use it every tankfull/ fill up.:)

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED !!!

Randall

Howes diesel treat has worked the best for me with USLD.

Last year a cold snap hit and a 5x treatment of PS white didn't do diddlie but cost me a second set of filters (factory and Nictane). In my tractors with a clear fuel filter glass I could see the wax. Adding HOWES cleared them up.

YMMV

jb

Back in November my fuel gelled at about -30C with a wind. Truck ran very rough, and had no power, didn't throw a code though. I ended up dumping 1/2 a bottle of Stanadyne Performance Formula in and changed the fuel filter. I now add Stanadyne to every tank.

Back in November my fuel gelled at about -30C with a wind. Truck ran very rough, and had no power, didn't throw a code though. I ended up dumping 1/2 a bottle of Stanadyne Performance Formula in and changed the fuel filter. I now add Stanadyne to every tank.

I'm going to put nitrous bottle heaters on my auxilary fuel filter this winter.

has anyone have any experience using seafoam? good, bad??

has anyone have any experience using seafoam? good, bad??



nevermind, i searched, and i found. go figure :horsey:

Well I Have Been Down To -10 With No Problems And The Trucks Sits Out Side All The Time. Fill Up At One Of The Local Truck Stops And Never A Problem..

Arm

I have always run power service in the past with no jelling problems. I switched to stanadyne this winter and jelled for the first time. Needless to say I am going back to running power service. Both my factory filter and my Nicktane filter were recently changed. I was running stanadyne at more than the recommeded doseage. Maybe I got a bad dose of fuel but the case of stanadyne that I bought was in the back of my truck. All 7 bottles froze up without even being opened. How is this stuff supposed to keep my fuel from gelling when it freezes in the bottle??? BTW it was about -10F outside.

Isn't it the chemical reaction with the diesel that makes it work?

Just got back from a long trip and temp went down to -8*. Windshield washer fluid froze but with Power Service (White Bottle) I was good to go all night. That washer solvent was supose to flow at -20* (full strength) but it didn't.

A few years ago I went with a friend up into new york to haul a tractor for him. It got down to -12 windy and bitter cold. I went out cranked up the truck and did not have a problem with gelling. I have used Diesel Plus from day one and have never regreted it. Check it out at www.tsperformancelubes.com

i've had my truck for three winters now and never put in any additive. should i consider myself lucky because the fuel has never gelled? can i use the same fuel additive i put in my semi? or do i have to find a specific brand thats fit for 3/4 to 1 ton trucks?

x2....on the stanydine gelling ...had it do that last winter in my truck,cost me a filter, and all the additive in the back of the truck gelled up also..

I have always run power service in the past with no jelling problems. I switched to stanadyne this winter and jelled for the first time. Needless to say I am going back to running power service. Both my factory filter and my Nicktane filter were recently changed. I was running stanadyne at more than the recommeded doseage. Maybe I got a bad dose of fuel but the case of stanadyne that I bought was in the back of my truck. All 7 bottles froze up without even being opened. How is this stuff supposed to keep my fuel from gelling when it freezes in the bottle??? BTW it was about -10F outside.

I am not defending it, but I read some where that it must be stored at or above 32 degrees to work properly. I believe it does work by a chemical reaction, but it has to be at or near that temp initially. That is probably the case for all fuel antigel supplements. I store mine in the bed, and when I get ready to fuel up, I bring it inside the cab for an while to let it get to proper temperature, and I have not experienced any problems. The antigel fuel additives are not a miracle savior! If it gets cold enough out there, anything will gel! Or freeze. The bottle gives you the workable temps. Anything below that, and your done.

There are some ULSD's out there which are simply not responding to *any* diesel fuel additization. The cloud point of 0F is followed by a CFPP of -5F, which is simply not low enough for midwest usage, especially after a weekend of 0 and sub zero temps...
All of the additive companies are scrambling at this point to come up with answers but no one I work with has anything which will effectively lower the CFPP of these ULSD fuels.
Just as a heads up; I have no solutions other than 10 to 20% K1 blend.
George Morrison, STLE CLS

the problem with geling is "the nut behind the wheel" if you dont watch what blend you are putting in your tank then you are going to have problems. if you dont have the availability of #1 or a 50/50 blend dump a few quarts of gas to every 15 gallons of #2 diesel. at least when u put gas in u know what it is

Not sure if this has been mentioned, pretty good article on fuel gelling:
http://www.lubrizol.com/press-room/media-coverage/pdflibrary/Weyenberg-RoadStar-707.pdf
--Jim

There are some ULSD's out there which are simply not responding to *any* diesel fuel additization. The cloud point of 0F is followed by a CFPP of -5F, which is simply not low enough for midwest usage, especially after a weekend of 0 and sub zero temps...
All of the additive companies are scrambling at this point to come up with answers but no one I work with has anything which will effectively lower the CFPP of these ULSD fuels.
Just as a heads up; I have no solutions other than 10 to 20% K1 blend.
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Just to make sure I understand, is this the clear K1 heater fuel that is sold at hardware stores for about $6 - 7 a gallon?

I run B-11 in Northern Illinois. I double dose with Power Service in the white bottle and have never jellded.

Buy a fuel jug and keep a gallon in a two gallon jug when it is cold go out and shake the jug and see if it is gelled. before you fill-up put that fuel in the tank then you will know if there is any fuel gell problems. Personally I've only seen problems when trucks came from Texas going to Alaska I was in Edmonton and it was -50 at the time. If the fuel gels how do you manage to get it into the tank in and the pumps to pump it in the first place. I call BS on most of the aditives good fuel filtering is best thing to do, that is why I'm going to be putting on a Delvac 233 primary filter, but that is another thing. PLAY SAFE!

Most fuel around here is stored in underground tanks. I think it stays a pretty constant 55 degrees. And the fuel that is stored above ground is in huge tanks and takes a long time to switch temperature. They do have some problems with jelling at the tank farm occassionally. Mostly when it's real cold and the fuel is on it's way to the blending station. They blend the additives in as it's being pumped in the semi or delivery truck.

I found some B100 in belleville michigan at a cost of $2.69 per gal.
Tried 50 gal still running strong in the winter will be back.
Check it out on Michigan Ave.

A Very interesting thread here that makes for interesting reading for those that are into BD and are looking for a way to measure BioD quality.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9411061471/m/8281092351

I plan to make my own home brew this spring as well...just need a pump and an apartment sized used or new hot water heater (240VAC)...I'll be in business. I've got the Methanol - got 25kg of 90% pure KOH - a good Triple Beam scale - syringes (free from Shoppers Drug mart if you can believe that..! - no needles just the plastic) - Phenol Red/100% Isopropyl alcohol for titration and about 60 Gallons of very low titrating Canola from a steady source 3 blocks away.!

At a cost of about .80 / Gallon to make, it just might be worth the 2-3 hours of messing with it.! If only for the satisfaction of making my own Fuel. for the winter I am looking at setting up some form of heating system to keep the fuel from gelling....the WVO guys have got that down pat. Start with ULSD - when warm switch over to WVO- and shut down on ULSD. Could do the same with BioD.

However given that it is going down to -38C tonight (that is -36F in American)...I won't be doing it anytime soon.! With windchill we are lookin at -52C, just another balmy day in Alberta.

stk

..I dunno, I'm nervous right now. It is supposed to get colder again after a few nice days and I had to put in fuel from a place that I haven't used before due to my biodiesel quest and failure. I had been running it low so I could be mostly bio and then got told by the supplier not to run bio until spring. So now I am using something that says it is 'winterized' but who knows what the hell that means. I usually by Phillips 66 around here because I know the cetane is higher and then add Power Service. This time, I am worried, even though she is plugged in and Power Service was added. :(

I have had gelling in the fuel filter but not in the tank. Would a fuel filter heater prevent this? On another post I saw where a guy bought one at a truck stop. I'm wondering if that is a mobil one that we could turn on going down the road? Just wondering what everybody else's thoughts were.

Anyone who is gelling and is not using the front cover - put it on... HUGE difference...

At what temp dose fuel gell and if it has already gelled what should you do

I use the front cover and it doesnt matter. The fuel just turns to gel when it gets cold and starts to plug the filter. I have found that the best solution is a heated garage!

Absolutely a heated garage is sweet - but the front cover has made all the differance for me...

I use the front cover and it doesnt matter. The fuel just turns to gel when it gets cold and starts to plug the filter. I have found that the best solution is a heated garage!

Yes, running the winter front does make a huge difference in keeping the underhood heat. My problem is that I cannot tow my trailer with the winter front on. It restrics my airbox and I can only get about 17-18 lb of boost. Then I end up throwing a boost code 0234 and my engine light comes on. The other thing I noticed is that I run high EGT's with it on too because it just can't breathe.. By the way, other than a 4" exhaust the truck is stock- No programmer!

We were 60 miles north of montreal last week (2/18/08) and it went below -20 F yes that Fahrenheit not Celsius. Needless to say I had trouble with the fuel. The truck was parked outside it started after warming it up for awhile, it drove without much power and the DIC came on with the change filter warning. I didn't have a fuel filter but filled it up and drove it 6 hours back to NY. I replaced the filter over the weekend and reset the DIC but my engine light is still lite up with no errors and the remote shuts off immediately now. Any Ideas?

Just to make sure I understand, is this the clear K1 heater fuel that is sold at hardware stores for about $6 - 7 a gallon?
Any replies on this. Around here at the local Sunoco, they put red dye in it, for un-taxed use...

Buy a fuel jug and keep a gallon in a two gallon jug when it is cold go out and shake the jug and see if it is gelled. before you fill-up put that fuel in the tank then you will know if there is any fuel gell problems. Personally I've only seen problems when trucks came from Texas going to Alaska I was in Edmonton and it was -50 at the time. If the fuel gels how do you manage to get it into the tank in and the pumps to pump it in the first place. I call BS on most of the aditives good fuel filtering is best thing to do, that is why I'm going to be putting on a Delvac 233 primary filter, but that is another thing. PLAY SAFE!

Nice Idea but it won't work. Fuel gells up in the fuel filter first and can't get threw the fine screen long before you can't pure it out of a can!

All diesel fuel is different. A fuel in Alaska is going to have very different handling winter operability characteristics than fuel in Alaska or Maine. Also keep in mind that you don't know what type of fuel you're pulling when fueling up at a station. It all depends on the maintenance practices of the fuel station and/or the fuel supplier. With the new ULSD fuels, water and microbial activity is a huge issue along with a list of other things. Many times, it's fuel filter icing that is causing your problem, and not fuel gelling. Either case, Power Service Diesel 9.1.1. is the product that will get you back on the road. After adding that, you want to make sure you have a good anti-gel in the fuel to prevent it from happening again. Sometimes just changing fuel suppliers will solve your problem.

I am 98% sure I gelled this morning, :(

It was -7* when I left the house... about 4 miles away from the house, I get a "limp". Pulling away from a light it surges, sets a light on the dash... Now I cant get over 2000RPM. Guess I need to run to the parts store to get some 911 and a filter, :(

This is my first tank of B20 too, :(

(2500 miles on her as well) Does this sound like gelling or could it be something else?

yep you gelled, I did the same thing last year on B20 in Michigan. I don't run bio in cold weather (in the teens.)

Any replies on this. Around here at the local Sunoco, they put red dye in it, for un-taxed use...red fuel is the same am any other diesel fuel it can come in #1 and #2 it just has red dye in because it is an off road fuel for example its made to burn in house furnaces, tractors ect. Dont get caught putting it in a pick up, i am from nd first offence its $250 second it $5000 fine it will save u forty cents a gallon or so but play it smart!

I am 98% sure I gelled this morning, :(

It was -7* when I left the house... about 4 miles away from the house, I get a "limp". Pulling away from a light it surges, sets a light on the dash... Now I cant get over 2000RPM. Guess I need to run to the parts store to get some 911 and a filter, :(

This is my first tank of B20 too, :(

(2500 miles on her as well) Does this sound like gelling or could it be something else?

Don't think I would run B20 at 7°. Maybe B5 would be a better choice.

so i know to change the filter if i gell up. is it ok to take the filter inside and let it thaw out? you should be able to reuse it wouldnt you?.

I thought that I could reuse my filters but I was wrong after I thawed it out in a 70 degree building for 6 hours it was still way more heavy then a new filter. So I would say no. Buying 6 filters in one day sucks.

I never had gelling problems until ulsd came along. Even started at -35F in Watson Lake, YT without the block heater. But when I gelled up twice last winter I had also removed the "turbo power" intake manifold shroud in my '99 6.5 TD. It could be that the shroud retains/directs engine heat that warms the fuel returning to the tank. When I had gelling problems last winter it was about -20F and the vehicle was stored outside. I now keep a 2.5 gallon container of kerosene and fill a container of #2ulsd with each fillup. If the ulsd looks iffy on a cold morning, the kerosene goes in. The two gellups cost nearly a thousand in towing and repair bills. All they really needed to do to get me going again was to put it in the warm garage for 3-4 hours. But I got a bunch of new parts anyway.

10%-20% kero or #1 in every tank in the winter of straight #2 is good insurance. Kero is typically 500 ppm sulfur No1 fuel. When it is blended for No1, it is hydrotreated to bring it to 15ppm sulfur. This makes it road fuel.

Need to be carful when running 500 ppm kero in trucks with DPFs.

I'm from CO, so I was worried about the affect of SoyBioDiesel on gel point. I found this seemingly trustworthy info on diesel fuels and bio blends.

1% and 2% Soy diesel (B01 and B02) have cloud points of -16C (3F) pure dino diesel is listed as -18C (0F)- so there's not not much impact on the cloud point of #2 diesel. Wish they listed effects on #1 diesel or winter blends, but I suspect it's about the same.

Note that below are links to 2 specific pages. You can thumb around in there and find a seemingly endless amount of data and discussion of varying scientific content.

Digression on Diesel Fuel Properties (http://www3.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel/Pages/biodiesel16.html)


http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gifigression on Cold Flow-Continued--->>>: (http://www3.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel/Pages/biodiesel23.html)

I still have not decided on whether to use B01 as a lubricity improver in the depths of the CO winter. Anybody got experience?

I'm from CO, so I was worried about the affect of SoyBioDiesel on gel point. I found this seemingly trustworthy info on diesel fuels and bio blends.

1% and 2% Soy diesel (B01 and B02) have cloud points of -16C (3F) pure dino diesel is listed as -18C (0F)- so there's not not much impact on the cloud point of #2 diesel. Wish they listed effects on #1 diesel or winter blends, but I suspect it's about the same.

Note that below are links to 2 specific pages. You can thumb around in there and find a seemingly endless amount of data and discussion of varying scientific content.

Digression on Diesel Fuel Properties (http://www3.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel/Pages/biodiesel16.html)


http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gifigression on Cold Flow-Continued--->>>: (http://www3.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel/Pages/biodiesel23.html)

I still have not decided on whether to use B01 as a lubricity improver in the depths of the CO winter. Anybody got experience?
1% Bio will not affect the cold flow characteristics of you diesel very much, as long as your are using a good quality and stable Bio.

You have to differentiate Gelling and Icing. Gelling means your fuel has gelled. Icing means water in your fuel has gelled.

Great advice on this thread. Adding kerosene will work great as a preventive measure. As always, if the fuel has gelled it is too late for preventive action. If you add kerosene just add some extra lubricity agent to compensate the 'dryness' of the kerosene.

My advice:
-1st, drain the coalescent filter on a regular basis. If frozen, remove and clean with methanol 100%.
-2nd replace the fuel filter. If you do not have a replacement then clean it and deice with your methanol 100%.
-Make sure its not the motor oil thats frozen...
-Do not use fuel from stations that give you trouble. You can put the fuel in a glass jar and see what it does. Does it become cloudy? Last winter an esso station had fuel that completely froze at minus 20°C in january in Québec...
-Stay away from high biodiesel blends in the winter.
-Use a water control additive. If you have a coalescing filter then use one that demulsifies. Glycol ether EB based additives are best in that case. More risky is to use methanol. If you do not have a coalescing filter then put a water additive that disperses water in the fuel such as ones based on butanol. Isopronol might also work. Heptanol and octanol based additives are best but rare and expensive.
-If you fill up south and drive north then put an anti-gelling additive while the fuel is still hot.

OK i have a question how does using a nicktane fuel adaptor and a 1micron fuel filter affect fuel gelling????

OK i have a question how does using a nicktane fuel adaptor and a 1micron fuel filter affect fuel gelling????

It doesn't affect the fuel but the smaller the pores of the filter you are using the lesser the tolerance to wax crystal.

We have a tendency to think in terms of liquid or solid. Water is like that: it is liquid and then it is all solid. Fuel is not like that. Lets start with a few definitions:

Pour point: lowest temperature at which you can pour your fuel. Basically, below that temperature all the fuel is frozen solid. You could put a can upside down and it won't pour. Looks like shortening.

CFPP : Cold Filter Plugging Point: lowest temperature at which you can use the fuel without clogging the fuel filter. This is a standard test done in standard conditions which means the temperature at which the fuel is exposed and the duration at that temperature are standardized. Same with the fuel filter. This is tought to be the lowest operating temperature that your fuel can tolerate.

Cloud Point : point at which the fuel goes from translucid to cloudy-hazy. Most common point used for cold temperature driveability. In other words, the fuel you buy should always have a lower cloud point than the lowest temperature expected at that time of the year in your geographical area.

Obviously the pour point and cloud point will not be affected by the fuel filter. However, the CFPP will be. So, if you are using bad fuel or if you are using your fuel while it is colder than intended by the fuel composition then CFPP is close to your benchmark. The faster the fuel temperature drop the smaller the paraffin crystals and the less likely they are of causing fuel filter clogging. The longer the fuel temperature drop then the bigger the paraffin crystals and the more likely the fuel filter clogging. The smaller the pores of the filter or the bigger the pressure drop then the more chances of clogging the fuel filter.

Same logic with water and the ice crystals that are formed from it (Icing).

hope this helps.

Philippe Boileau
chemist
www.************.com

OK i have a question how does using a nicktane fuel adaptor and a 1micron fuel filter affect fuel gelling????

It doesn't affect the fuel but the smaller the pores of the filter you are using the lesser the tolerance to wax crystal.

We have a tendency to think in terms of liquid or solid. Water is like that: it is liquid and then it is all solid. Fuel is not like that. Lets start with a few definitions:

Pour point: lowest temperature at which you can pour your fuel. Basically, below that temperature all the fuel is frozen solid. You could put a can upside down and it won't pour. Looks like shortening.

CFPP : Cold Filter Plugging Point: lowest temperature at which you can use the fuel without clogging the fuel filter. This is a standard test done in standard conditions which means the temperature at which the fuel is exposed and the duration at that temperature are standardized. Same with the fuel filter. This is tought to be the lowest operating temperature that your fuel can tolerate.

Cloud Point : point at which the fuel goes from translucid to cloudy-hazy. Most common point used for cold temperature driveability. In other words, the fuel you buy should always have a lower cloud point than the lowest temperature expected at that time of the year in your geographical area.

Obviously the pour point and cloud point will not be affected by the fuel filter. However, the CFPP will be. So, if you are using bad fuel or if you are using your fuel while it is colder than intended by the fuel composition then CFPP is close to your benchmark. The faster the fuel temperature drop the smaller the paraffin crystals and the less likely they are of causing fuel filter clogging. The longer the fuel temperature drop then the bigger the paraffin crystals and the more likely the fuel filter clogging. The smaller the pores of the filter or the bigger the pressure drop then the more chances of clogging the fuel filter.

Same logic with water and the ice crystals that are formed from it (Icing).

hope this helps.

Philippe Boileau
chemist
www.************.com (http://www.************.com)


The question regarding the 1 micron filter issue may be a bigger issue then we think in real cold weather.
Last weekend I was gelled up returning from the U.P. of Michigan after driving without problem for a half hour. Just started loosing power then.....
The temp was -25 and I had my "Tryton" fuel heater on which is wrapped around my Nictain 1 micron remote filter. Did the 911 Service additive, but no luck.
Removed the filter and it was clogged solid with slush. The factory engine compartment one was fine.
Any ideas other then compromising by putting a less effecient filter in place of the 1-micron remote one?
After installing the fuel filter heater I thought the problem was a dead issue. No such luck!:confused:

The fact that your from Illinois probably has more to do with it, being the fuel that your state mandates by law. I believe Illinois mandates a mixture of biodiesel, even in the winter. This comes up every year with someone. You need to run more of your own antigel to combat this, or maybe even cut it with a little Kerosene. I think you had an icing issue, not a gelling issue. It is a well known fact that biodiesel holds more water in fuel than regular winter blended diesel.

The 1 micron filter probably does not have much to do with your fuel issue. I think this would have happened even with the 2 micron or 10 micron spin-ons. Just my 2 cents here.

Illinois fuel -- ask me how I know

Illinois give tax incentives to retailers that sell B-11 diesel over regular ULSD. So what do they only sell? B-11 of course! I got stranded at -7 in Wisconsin after buying that Illinois garbage B-11.

I filed a complaint with the State after paying $200 in garage visits and 2 filters. I even had 16 oz of Power Service winter additive!

Illinois responded that they tested the station in question and the fuel met weatherization standards.

After further research, I found out that paraffin waxes in biodiesel easily clogs the ultra fine Duramax filter. It is sometimes referred to as "frosting" or "icing" as it glazes the surface. To my knowledge, no diesel additives or anti gel agents dissolves the bio paraffin if you are in -4 or lower. Other diesels dont experience this, just ours.

The first filter failed about in Madison WI and I topped off what I could (3 gal). I made it just to outside Minneapolis and the 2nd filter failed.

I will never purchase a dime of diesel fuel or contribute a penny in fuel tax to Illinois, ever again.

That is pretty much what I was talking about Jon. Thanks for clearing that up, as you have much more experience and knowledge on the issue than I. I use Stanadyne or Power Service white in every tank, and I have had no issues here in Rhode Island.

I would check your fuel filter heater. It should have controlled the problem if installed and working properly.

Also, check if the deposits do 'melt' when at room temperature. If not you possibly have a microbial contamination problem associated with water and-or biodiesel.

Otherwise, add kerosene or Jet-Fuel along with a lubricity additive to your fuel.

Thanks for the feedback.

Your fuel filter heater should have prevented the problem. I would first check if it is installed properly and working (should be warmer to the hand).

If that is working properly, take your filter indoor and check if the gel 'melts'. If it doesn't and if you are not using old fuel (oxidation) then you are probably looking at a microbial contamination issue related to water and biodiesel content.

To dissolve in the field the wax the best product to use is naphta sold in hardware stores as stove fuel.

hope this helps if not email me.

Philippe Boileau
Prolab
formulation chemist

Your fuel filter heater should have prevented the problem. I would first check if it is installed properly and working (should be warmer to the hand).

If that is working properly, take your filter indoor and check if the gel 'melts'. If it doesn't and if you are not using old fuel (oxidation) then you are probably looking at a microbial contamination issue related to water and biodiesel content.

To dissolve in the field the wax the best product to use is naphta sold in hardware stores as stove fuel.

hope this helps if not email me.

Philippe Boileau
Prolab
formulation chemist

Thanks guys for all the input I appreciate it!

I have tested the fuel heater and in fact it is working fine. We here in Illinois understand this bio diesel mandate is a problem we will have to live with however each time I have had gelling or freezing up issues I had filled up in the U.P. or northern Wisconsin prior to the problem. Also the truck always has at least two white Service diesel additive in the tank and has been plugged in throughout the night. This particular time the truck warmed up WITH the fuel heater on for 1/2 hour before pulling out and it happened less then an hour into the trip home.

Wish there was some magic potion to use to prevent this regardless of where I fill up. The rest of the family is becoming afraid to take old reliable up north when things get cold.

Odd, I've never jelled up. I always try to add additional additive Power Service in the white bottle mostly - when it gets cold. If it's biodiesel I give it a double dose.

I always try to add lubrication additive unless it's the summer and I'm running B11 or better.

I sometimes mix Power Service with some extra Howe's (double dose) when it is super cold out. I am surprised that the White Power Service gelled up like that.

I sometimes mix Power Service with some extra Howe's (double dose) when it is super cold out. I am surprised that the White Power Service gelled up like that.


Tell me about it. S%$&Y situation!
This weekend it's getting three bottles of the white S/D. before we try to deal with the -25's S:cool:unday.

Tell me about it. S%$&Y situation!
This weekend it's getting three bottles of the white S/D. before we try to deal with the -25's S:cool:unday.


What the heck do those "Ice road truckers" run for fuel and system heaters to keep from dealing with this unpredictable pain in the...:confused:

What the heck do those "Ice road truckers" run for fuel and system heaters to keep from dealing with this unpredictable pain in the...:confused:

That's a good question! I have wondered that myself. Probably more D1 or Kerosene than us.

I sometimes mix Power Service with some extra Howe's (double dose) when it is super cold out. I am surprised that the White Power Service gelled up like that.

It did for me but I had a full tank of Illinois B-11 and 16oz of PS. The Service Manager at the dealership in Minneapolis told me that the only thing that cuts the paraffin wax flakes is a warm garage. AFIK, Powerservice or Diesel 911 has no effects on excessive cold wax.

Keep in mind this is a Duramax filter issue only, other trucks supposedly pass the paraffin without issue. I was using a TP1298B filter back then so maybe the TP3012 is different since it is now coalescer. The way he explained it to me, the pleats clog up with the bio wax and starve the fuel flow.

I'm still amazed that Illinois thought they were so smart with the B-11 but apparently they thought "winterizing" to -20 was like regular diesel. Oops, forgot what paraffin wax starts acting up at -7 regardless of the -20 spec on the fuel itself!

Geez you guys and your shitty B-11. glad we dont have that crap up here. Ive been running -35C with no additives for the last few weeks.

Here in Minneapolis, Holiday stations diesel is posted as good down to -30 this time of year. However, I still gelled once last year using it. What a Pita.

Ive only gelled once ever and it was from pumping slush diesel outta the pump. didnt even realize it till it was almost full and the guy came out and said the pump was actually closed for that reason the sign blew off.

Here in Minneapolis, Holiday stations diesel is posted as good down to -30 this time of year. However, I still gelled once last year using it. What a Pita.

Interesting, after my entire fiasco, by the time I got the B-11 flushed out of my system I topped off at a Blains Farm & Fleet in St. Joseph (with a double dose of PS). Was -35 the next morning. Even though I was plugged in all night, I was still expecting issues (based on the nightmare the 24 hours before). I was amazed the truck started and ran like a champ.

Bottom line, fuel can be dicey anywhere (Illinois at every street corner)

Last week when it was down to -20, there was quite a few semi's on the side of the road. Maybe coming from down south and the fuel gelled. I didn't have any problems, but treat my fuel every tank with PS and carry an extra filter and tools.

stanadyne is the best hands down. need to pick up another case this week

stanadyne is the best hands down. Need to pick up another case this week


x2

Ive only gelled once ever and it was from pumping slush diesel outta the pump. didnt even realize it till it was almost full and the guy came out and said the pump was actually closed for that reason the sign blew off.


THAT WOULD SUCK!!!:eek:

stanadyne is the best hands down. need to pick up another case this week


I am thinking of trying the 5 gallon pail. Anyone try this?

they always try to sell me those! dont really have the time or space to transfer it all. I just buy the 1L bottles

OK Thanks. I read somewhere that is comes with a little hand pump. It is only a little cheaper than the case of 6 1/2 gallon jugs.

On the ice roads we prettymuch run almost 1k kerosene

Some of the posts suggested adding an external heater to the fuel filter in Canada and Northern US. With this being the first year I had any trouble in 10 years of owning diesels I thought it was cheap insurance for less than 100 bucks. Now I have a toasty warm fuel filter anytime the engine is running. I plan to remove when it stays above 40deg.