Fuel Filter Pictures [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Fuel Filter Pictures


Crew Cab Dude
08-10-2004, 08:10 PM
9600 miles on both filters. Nicktane Cat filter looks to be doing it's job. Lots of life left in the stock filter. No sign of water/rust in either filter canister. Also using Primrose 409 or 405. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif







http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Fuel_Filters0002.jpg





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Fuel_Filters0004.jpg





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Fuel_Filters0006.jpg

OC_DMAX
08-10-2004, 10:51 PM
My OEM looked very similar with my Racor Pre-OEM supplemental set-up after 8k miles of use. Had similar results with the Primrose. No rust ect. Looks like the OEM can go at least 15K - 20K miles under these conditions (or more).

56Nomad
08-11-2004, 02:43 AM
I think we have it dialed in for the pre-OEM CAT
9000 miles for the 1R-0749 TALL canister and
6000 miles for the 1R-0750 SHORT canister.

OC_DMAX and all....... If you recall, I removed my Racor
set up and switched out to CAT because of the expense
($25) to buy the Racor filters. We have no suppliers here in
Santa Cruz/Monterey area so I had to pay freight.

I also think with these pre-OEM filters, IMO we can easily go
30,000 miles on the OEM filters.

The CAT dealers are all over the place and I can by their
fuel filters for $10

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/HW_CAT_small_.jpgEdited by: 56Nomad

gearhead
08-11-2004, 10:09 AM
hey 56nomad who made your cat setup?

56Nomad
08-11-2004, 11:05 AM
I did.....

Here is the part numbers you will need to install the CAT filter. You'll also need to
go to the local parts store and buy the hose, fittings, and clamps. What is listed
below is what you need to order from the CAT dealer. Also you need a piece of
angle iron or aluminum to mount the head onto the frame rail. See below:

FILTER BASE.......1N-3789
FUEL FILTER.......1R-0750 SHORT OR 1R-0749 TALL
GASKET.....1P-0436 (GOES BETWEEN COVER PLATE WHEN REMOVING PRIME PUMP)
COVER...6N-4414 (REPLACES PRIME PUMP)
PLUG...9S-4182...(FILLS EXTRA HOLE IN FILTER PLATE)
SEAL O RING...3J-7354...(GOES ON PLUG,EXTRA HOLE)
BOLT...8T-0640...(COVER)
BOLT...6V-5218...(COVER)
WASHER...5P-0537...(PUT ON BOLT LISTED ABOVE)
WASHER...9M-1974...(PUT ON BOLT LISTED ABOVE)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8ZZ_Bracket2.jpgEdited by: 56Nomad

White Duramax
08-11-2004, 11:24 AM
How much money do you have in the Cat setup? What size is the inlet and outlet to the filter? Does anyone know the flow rating of it??

Jeli
08-11-2004, 11:25 AM
I think we have it dialed in for the pre-OEM CAT
9000 miles for the 1R-0749 TALL canister and
6000 miles for the 1R-0750 SHORT canister.



I just cut my shorty with 10K and it still had and inch left to go. I was targeting 7500 miles but stuff happens. My first filter was changed at 13K and was definatley used up. Note to self...make sure and calculate true miles when running 35's and your speedo is 12% off!!!

56Nomad
08-11-2004, 11:45 AM
White Duramax

I think it cost me just over $100 bucks. I don't know what
the flow rate is...... but all the folks who have done it,
none report problems. As George Morrison has
outlined previously, you'll probably experience a little
bump in your miles per gallon.

blnagel
08-11-2004, 11:59 AM
Meaning an increase in mpg? Is it easy to put on? Time of install?


Ben http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Rock%20On.gif

56Nomad
08-11-2004, 12:12 PM
Meaning an increase in mpg?* YES

Is it easy to put on?* YES

Time of install? Will vary depending on who does it.
Weekend mechanics....... maybe 3 hours.

blnagel
08-11-2004, 12:27 PM
Any install pix by chance? Any pix are greatly helpful since I would install myself.


Ben

56Nomad
08-11-2004, 12:52 PM
Hi Ben,

I don't have any install photo's other than what I
put above. It really is strait forward. After you
purchase the parts and get the fittings and hose, put
the entire assembly together. Then find the best
location on the frame to mount it. Then mount the
angle iron onto the frame. I had to drill two holes
in my frame to accomodate the bolts.

You'll need to cut the 1/2 inch metal fuel line
and be prepared to get a little wet with fuel.

It is best to install when your fuel tank is almost empty
and get everything set up to quickly get the
hose ends iinstalled onto the fuel line.

It really doesn't take much mechanical skill to
do all the set up.

Good luck

Diesel Power
08-11-2004, 12:53 PM
You can run that 0749 for a lot more than 9000 miles... i measured restriction on a dmax with a new CAT, pre-oem at 3.75inhg.. after 18k it was 4.5.. usually this guy runs his 20k but i didn't have the vac gauge avail. when we changed those.

blnagel
08-11-2004, 01:03 PM
By Cutting the 1/2 " line will that then drain your fuel tank?


So you cut the tube, then you hook up the other tubing that you described? Sounds easy if I understand that right. I like the shut off valve you have. Do you just turn it off when you change the filter.


Ben

56Nomad
08-11-2004, 01:45 PM
Ben,

By keeping the fuel tank near empty, there will be less
pressure to push the fuel out the cut line. You will have
a small amount of leakage..... but if your set up to
slip the hose endings on the cut fuel line, it goes
so quick that leakage is minimal.

The shut off valve allows me to change my filters
without any leakage even when my tank is fuel.

blnagel
08-11-2004, 02:00 PM
Where exactly do you have this mounted at? I wanna do mine soon. How would this increase your mpg?


Ben

Gruber
08-11-2004, 02:02 PM
Nomad56......How much of the fuel line did you cut out and did you just hose clamp the hose to the fuel line or did you flare it?...Very sano install, clean and simple.......Cal

Gruber
08-11-2004, 02:03 PM
I see you hose clamped it.....

56Nomad
08-11-2004, 02:32 PM
Gruber,

I cut about 2.5 feet of the fuel line and did
not flare the ends. The hose clamp worked fine
and I have no air leaks.

I used blue Parker hose 250 PSI and pushed
it as far as I could onto the 1/2 inch fuel
line end before tightening the hose clamp.

Some of the other guys who have done the
install with Racor, Stanadyne or CAT set-ups
make only one cut or a smaller length and
loop the hose. I thought it best to keep
the fuel line with the least amount of
bends and twists.... but I don't think it
should make a measurable difference.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/444_Looped.jpg

blnagel
08-11-2004, 04:25 PM
"FILTER BASE.......1N-3789
FUEL FILTER.......1R-0750 SHORT OR 1R-0749 TALL
GASKET.....1P-0436 (GOES BETWEEN COVER PLATE WHEN REMOVING PRIME PUMP)
COVER...6N-4414 (REPLACES PRIME PUMP)
PLUG...9S-4182...(FILLS EXTRA HOLE IN FILTER PLATE)
SEAL O RING...3J-7354...(GOES ON PLUG,EXTRA HOLE)
BOLT...8T-0640...(COVER)
BOLT...6V-5218...(COVER)
WASHER...5P-0537...(PUT ON BOLT LISTED ABOVE)
WASHER...9M-1974...(PUT ON BOLT LISTED ABO"


Where did you pick this stuff up at? ACE hardware?Carquest?NAPA?


Ben

blnagel
08-11-2004, 05:00 PM
What did you use to cut the 1/2" line?


Ben

Gruber
08-11-2004, 05:04 PM
56Nomad.......Cool, thanks


blnangl.....at the Cat dealer, read it again it's there ...Gruber

56Nomad
08-11-2004, 05:12 PM
Ben,

A small diameter pipe cutter. I think they cost
$10 at the hardware store. Don't use a saw cut it.

blnagel
08-11-2004, 05:38 PM
I know most times I look and look and still cannot find the answers. My wife always tells me about my looking and how "thorough" I am.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif Thanks again.


Ben

duramaxtom
08-13-2004, 07:21 PM
Ben,

By keeping the fuel tank near empty, there will be less
pressure to push the fuel out the cut line. You will have
a small amount of leakage..... but if your set up to
slip the hose endings on the cut fuel line, it goes
so quick that leakage is minimal.

The shut off valve allows me to change my filters
without any leakage even when my tank is fuel.


How can their be pressure in the fuel tank when it feeds from the top? I've done it both ways and it doesn't matter whether the fuel tank is full or 1/4 full. Any fuel that leaks is due to siphoning. Just blow a small amount of air back up the line to the tank and if won't leak a drop while working on it. Only problem is if you don't have a lift pump, its tougher to bleed the system of air when completed.


Here's another way to plumb it. I would always recommend flaring the steel fuel line and using push lok fittings. Hose clamps is a band aid and prone to leakage over time.


Tom


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/E4C_2fuel_3.jpgEdited by: duramaxtom

56Nomad
08-13-2004, 07:55 PM
Hi Tom,

You wrote: "Hose clamps is a band aid and prone to leakage over time"

I believe that's what comes stock on our fuel lines.

Also, I have another trick to prime my pre-OEM filter. I drilled a hole
and ran a long tire valve thru an old gas cap. Sealed it with silicone.
A litttle air pressure from a bike tire pump pushes the fuel into the
replaced fuel filter cartridge. No mess. No lift pump required.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/62C_gascap.jpghttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/ZFA_BottomGasCap.jpgEdited by: 56Nomad

Turbotug
08-23-2004, 12:56 PM
56NOMAD,


Where did you get the fitting that goes directly into the filter head, I can't seem to find them? What size/thread are they?


On edit: Anyone who has assembled this, your assistance would be helpful.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gifEdited by: turbotug

RUNNINHORN
05-01-2005, 10:44 PM
ttt