Hi, i have a 90 2500 silverado, 2wd, and i found a new engine to replace the one in it (broken conecting rod'sss)

I am changing all the gaskets on the new one i found in a scrap yard, supposed to be a 1990 rebuilted by GM, with 60000 miles only.

Is there any other thing's to check or replace now that i have it it my hands ?

The timing chain seem's loose, it wabbles each side of the gears with my fingers ?? normal ? what is the way to check the wear in it.

Lots of questions to ask...

Will start here for today !

Thanks !

Hi, i have a 90 2500 silverado, 2wd, and i found a new engine to replace the one in it (broken conecting rod'sss)

I am changing all the gaskets on the new one i found in a scrap yard, supposed to be a 1990 rebuilted by GM, with 60000 miles only.

Is there any other thing's to check or replace now that i have it it my hands ?

The timing chain seem's loose, it wabbles each side of the gears with my fingers ?? normal ? what is the way to check the wear in it.

Lots of questions to ask...

Will start here for today !

Thanks !

Some slack is allowed and engineered into the system. A new chain is supposed to have 1/2" of slack - as measured by rotating one of the gears back and forth. A used chain is allowed up to 3/4" inch of slack and considered not needed replacement by GM.

Welcome to the forum! :welcome:

As noted, the timing chain is supposed to have some slack in it.

If you have the engine on the bench and disassemble for gaskets anyway, it would be a good idea to (carefully) inspect the main and rod bearings. New bearings aren't all that expensive and are easy to install with the engine out of the truck. Also, the rear main seal is worth looking at (but I'm guessing you're already doing that).

I'm assuming you are going to replace the head gaskets while you've got it out... Don't reuse the original bolts, use good quality aftermarket bolts. While you have the heads off inspect them for cracks (small cracks between the valves are pretty much normal so don't worry too much about them, but make sure they aren't cracked in other places).

Take a good look at the freeze plugs... They are cheap and much easier to replace with the engine out of the truck.

If you are ever planning on turbocharging the engine (or even if you aren't) you might want to consider a few durability upgrades now (although if you don't want to spend the money it will be fine without them)... A main stud girdle to help support the main bearings and a geardrive timing set would be the main things. Both of these are excellent upgrades.

Hope this helps and welcome again! :) :welcome:

Thanks for your answer, i was not planning to change the head's gaskets, sice the engine has about 60000miles, do you think i should spend now to change them anyway, or should i get it running first, and could change them later in the truck.

Also, the timing marks on the fuel pump and the block were not alligned, standing in front of the engine,the pumps line was .040" left from the mark on the block, does this seem to be in the normal range ?

I read that the timing on diesel motors was pretty touchy.

Thanks again for your feedback !

I'm working all w-end on it, got to work somewere next week !
Snowmobile ride planned arround the 22 Jan , YESSS !

Steph.

I would recommend that you change the head gaskets, but if you don't want to, don't bother. If it were me I'd change them with the engine out, it is much easier than when the engine is in the truck.

That is a pretty normal timing setting. The timing really isn't that touchy, it is just that if it isn't right you can have some funny problems (smoke on startup and at idle or excessive diesel rattle/knocking).

No snowmobiling here... No snow... Plus there seems to be an issue with the '77 Skidoo I've been riding (it won't start)... ):h :(