My DSP2 switch quit working so now Im stuck in race/kill mode. Tomorrow morning before work I will load a different tune so that DSP2 is obsolete and so that Im not stuck in kill mode. I got in my truck to go home after work, never touched the switch and could tell right away, from the touchy throttle, that I was in kill mode. Changing switch positions did nothing. I looked under the hood, in the dark, with a flash light and could not detect and loose connections or severed wires. I will have to investigate more closely when it isnt dark and I have more time. Any other thoughts as to why it might have quit on me, or what may be wrong. My first thoughts are either the ground came loose or the pin at the ecm came loose for some reason, though I can't imagine why.

Which tune is your kill tune? The main one or the secondary?

you afraid of driving around in kill? that's all i do :)

My DSP2 switch quit working so now Im stuck in race/kill mode. Tomorrow morning before work I will load a different tune so that DSP2 is obsolete and so that Im not stuck in kill mode. I got in my truck to go home after work, never touched the switch and could tell right away, from the touchy throttle, that I was in kill mode. Changing switch positions did nothing. I looked under the hood, in the dark, with a flash light and could not detect and loose connections or severed wires. I will have to investigate more closely when it isnt dark and I have more time. Any other thoughts as to why it might have quit on me, or what may be wrong. My first thoughts are either the ground came loose or the pin at the ecm came loose for some reason, though I can't imagine why.

the kill tune i run is not too streetable.

max--- uh? i dont know...up is street down is kill. wait, nevermind...main tune is street, dsp2 tune is kill.

Then it sounds like your wire is shorted to ground. Check the wiring and see if it is shorten anywhere and check the switch, it might be bad.

Yeah I just checked with a test light and the switch is not getting any power. I grounded the test light and went right to the power side of the switch and I get nothing. I cant find a short anywhere but I cant check too thouroughly right now. I'll investigate further when I have a chance to do so in the light.

The switch should't have power at it. It switchs the pin on the ECM to ground or open. It should never have power at it.

So I have to put my test light to the ground? I cant do that right now unfortunately. My ground is not very accessible, its buried.

Ohm meter would be the best way.

Test light would work too if you hook the ground lead to + and then probe the switch. That method is NOT recommended.

If you use a test light it should be an LED test light to prevent excessive amp draw so you dont burn up the PCM. All PCM's work off ground not power to prevent voltage spikes.

If you have continuity them perform a load test on that circiut after each end is unplugged to verify the wire is not broken, stretched, or corroded. Good luck.

If you have continuity then unplug each end of the wire and perform a load test to verify that the wire is not stretched, broken, or corroded and is preventing the wire from carrying its intended amp load. Check all powers and grounds. Good Luck.

Are you sure there is no voltage output on the DSP changeover circut?

Ohm it! :D

The switch pulls the pin to ground, so it should have voltage on it when in 'normal' mode. Sounds like the switch is shorted closed, or the wiring has been shorted to ground.

Cheers,
Ross

Never use a test light when working with ecms, always use a volt meter, test light draws to many amps and will fry ecms, first thing they forced into our minds at deere school lol

Never use a test light when working with ecms, always use a volt meter, test light draws to many amps and will fry ecms, first thing they forced into our minds at deere school lol

That is true when you don't know what you're doing. In the particular case it would not hurt anything. I am not encouraging it, he definitely should use a volt meter. I am just saying in this case it would not hurt anything. It's a good rule of thumb to not use test lights at all in automotive applications. Also you should always use a Digital multi-meter. Not all computer safe test lights are as computer safe as they would lead to you to believe.

took apart my dash today and found the culprit. the ground wire pulled off the back of the switch. i must have put too much tension on the wire when stuffing my astrostart module into my truck. me and my big fat hands cant solder it back on for the life of me so I think I will go get a different switch tomorrow and use spade connectors to attatch the ground wire and the wire from the ECM. On the DSP2 switch I got from trippin' there are 3 wires. 1 ground, 1 to the ECM and 1 that I didnt use and just taped off. I can get any 2 position switch and just use the top and middle terminal and leave the third (bottom) unused, correct?

took apart my dash today and found the culprit. the ground wire pulled off the back of the switch. i must have put too much tension on the wire when stuffing my astrostart module into my truck. me and my big fat hands cant solder it back on for the life of me so I think I will go get a different switch tomorrow and use spade connectors to attatch the ground wire and the wire from the ECM. On the DSP2 switch I got from trippin' there are 3 wires. 1 ground, 1 to the ECM and 1 that I didnt use and just taped off. I can get any 2 position switch and just use the top and middle terminal and leave the third (bottom) unused, correct?

The switches were made to be used on either LB7 or LLY. It was easier for stocking units. One wire was for LB7 one for LLY and one to ground. When the switch is moved to the "on" position it connects both wires to the ground terminal.

You can use any switch you like to connect the ecm wire to ground.

Hope this helps. :D