My truck in morning is hard to start and sometimes won't. When I bought I was told the transfer pump (thats the supply pump, right?) was out. If this was the case why would it even run? When warmer out it starts fine. This morning (25) it was touchy. Yesterday afternoon it was 40-45 in shop and wouldn't start. I liked to kill my help when they put starting fluid in it, luckily put on crack on outside of air box, not actually inside. What is this problem I am experiencing?

It could be a number of things. If it's the lift pump you should see a problem on hard acceleration.

The FAQ section has a list to go through and post the results back here so it can be narrowed down. Instructions on lift pump test, etc.

Just guessing I would suspect weak batteries and or bad battery cables, and or weak starter since you didn't say anything about smoking.

If smoking it could be glow plugs, glow plug controller, injectors.

Please post the checklist with results and any other details you can think of.

the purpose of the lift pump is essentially to lift or move fuel to that expensive ip. the ip can sometimes draw it's supply without the lift pump but why use the ip to do that. just makes an expensive injection pump work that much harder doing a job it was never designed to do.

I concur, its elementary my dear watson

Another thing to try when it gets cold again is to unplug the coolant sensor connection on the crossover by where the heater hose connects.

Or hold the accelerator pedal down at about 1/4 throttle while cranking.

Thanks for info. My truck cranks over fastly so it wouldn't be battery cables would it?

Does it smoke when it cold starts? What color smoke?

For a simple lift pump test open the valve on the front of the motor and see if fuel comes out while it's running.

Is the t-handle thing beside oil fill/ If so, does it open counter clockwise? and does it turn by lil rod on top or nut below?

No smoke at all
Does it smoke when it cold starts? What color smoke?

For a simple lift pump test open the valve on the front of the motor and see if fuel comes out while it's running.

It turns by the rod on top. The hose attached to it is just hanging down. You can catch the fuel in a clear bottle and examine it. Let it set for several hours if it looks good and look at it again.

When cold starting how long does the wait to start light stay on, and does it flash after start? Also when it finally starts is the Service Engine Soon light coming on? You need to check the codes also.

Finally, when it cold starts does it take the exact amount of time to start, as in turns over 10 times and starts?

It turns by the rod on top.
When cold starting how long does the wait to start light stay on, and does it flash after start? Also when it finally starts is the Service Engine Soon light coming on? You need to check the codes also.


sstd,
righty tighty, lefty loosy on the "T" .

David,
what is reasoning behind the question above(ie the flash after start and the length of the initial WTS light)? Does this mean something could be a problem somewhere or is it normal?

Mark:beerchug:

The sensors determine the operation of the glow plugs. The colder it is the longer it will stay on if working correctly, according to ECT. The flashing could be an indication of the function of the baro sensor. I'm not sure if they all do this or not.

The flash of the WTS/GP light after starting is just the glow plugs turning on and off in the ECMs attempt to smooth out the idle by making sure all cylinders are firing......completely normal and nothing special....

Glow question more or less out of curiosity because there is no smoke I'm leaning toward the exact number of spins to start each time. Which seems to be common and always followed by a code about the IP.

Thanks.
Could he have a problem with the ECM? Just seems strange for the light to just stay on solid and nothing else.:confused:

Mark:beerchug:

Yea, that is totally messed up.

Did you clear everything as suggested by disconnecting both + battery terminals and touching cable to - side.

Check engine light never been on since got truck. Wait light is on probably 3-4 seconds at most and when cold in mornings for half block after taking off (take off right after it starts) it blinks a few times then stops with no other problems.

As far as bleeder valve mine is really tight that is why I was double checking it was right, didn't want to break it.

Oh yeah when it starts no problems it cranks and fires immediately. When cold and when it still starts it cranks 4-5 seconds then fires. 1-2 times so far has cranked for 10-12 seconds, I know its hard on starter but that was my dad not me doing that.

I liked to kill my help when they put starting fluid in it

Has it started since it's had starting fluid applied to it? This would be huge in the diagnostic path.

Yes no problems at all, they only barely sprayed thru little crack in air box, thats all, thanks god.

Do you plug it in when it's cold. I do anytime it will be getting below 30-35 deg. I know if I don't, it takes many more cranks to start and it sounds like rough crap too. If plugged in, starts right up and no problems.

Mark:beerchug:

What I have seen before is electrical.

It takes a set number of revolutions to fire. Not random at all.

I thought it was low voltage to the PMD, IP, or something like that. Cleaning connections made it go away.

Also if it warmed up the problem went away.

So it's something to do with temperature.

I will clean connections. I was plugging in but seen yesterday the plug got broken and was not actually warming any thing, wire got cut some way, just barely but enough.