Starting on my head gasket project today. While I am there I will be putting in injectors and glow plugs.

I am using alldatadiy.com for instructions.

A few questions on the installation from reading the alldata instructions.
1) It specifies a special glow plug removal tool. Can I just use pliars?
2) It also specifies a GM thread sealant for the head bolts. What is the equivalent thread sealant i can get from the local parts store?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Wish me luck.

I am sure I will be posting more questions as I get further into the project.

1) Use a deep-well socket

2) I'd get new head bolts - aren't these "torque to yield"? The new bolts will have a sealer on them if it is needed

1) Use a deep-well socket
The alldata is refering to the electrical connection. It says not to pull on the wiring harness.

2) I'd get new head bolts - aren't these "torque to yield"? The new bolts will have a sealer on them if it is needed
Head bolts are will be here tommorrow.
Thanks.

No - Don't pull on the wires going to the glow plugs. The couple that are in heat shields are the hard ones to get to. I bent a small hook in the end of a metal coat hanger, and used that to get under the connector and pull it off.

If you apply any torque to the top or case of the Injector it's trash. Only turn by the 30mm part at the tip end of the injector. You might want to change the connectors for the GP's. Make sure the new ones fit tight

Some new bolts do not come with sealer! also be cautioned sometimes NEW bolts will stretch when you install them, you will know its faulty because you can feel it "pull away" almost as if you stripped it, if that happens just re-use an old one. (if the bolt will hold the torque when you install it it will be fine)
The last head I did was on a dodge 2.5 and had 3 bad NEW bolts.

On the bolting torque sequence its says +90 degrees. Is this just the torque reading +1/4 turn?
Thanks.

Anyone had issues with napa head gaskets? The aren't felpro.
Thanks

Do not use anything but Fel-Pro IMO.

Turn 1/4 turn for the final sequence.

Be sure you clean out the bolt holes first. Use a 12m-1.75 tap.

Just a quick status update. The heads are out and in my garage now. I will take it tuesday for magnaflux and flatness test.

IMO I would have them surfaced whether they are flat or not, The surface roughness of a fresh surface is very helpful in "holding" new gaskets.

Never done this before. Do you specify how much to take off and buy the larger gasket size? When I was at advance auto I noticed they have an option to by .010" thicker gasket.

Most of the time we can remove .005-.008'' then you can use stock head gaskets or I would rather use than the .010 thicker gaskets. Depending on your miles I would think about grinding the valves & seats.

One tip for ya,

Have yer old lady get started cleaning up those valve covers early so they'll be ready. What a pain.

TTY bolts are torqued in a sequence of 3 stages
Stage one is through the pattern at about 20ft lbs
Then again through the pattern at 55 Ft lbs
Then exactly 1/4 turn more, the torque at this point does not mean much unless it goes slack on you.
The bolts should have an orange silicone sealer on the threads as well as under the head.

If not paint the threads and the bolt head underside with High Tack purple sealer and put it together.

Be sure and run a tap though the head bolt holes by hand before you go back together.

Its metric and you can get one at most parts stores.
Save yourself a mess and clean out the threads first.

Hope this helps

Robyn

Yep

tap is 12m-1.75

TTY bolts are torqued in a sequence of 3 stages
Stage one is through the pattern at about 20ft lbs
Then again through the pattern at 55 Ft lbs
Then exactly 1/4 turn more, the torque at this point does not mean much unless it goes slack on you.
The bolts should have an orange silicone sealer on the threads as well as under the head.

If not paint the threads and the bolt head underside with High Tack purple sealer and put it together.

Be sure and run a tap though the head bolt holes by hand before you go back together.

Its metric and you can get one at most parts stores.
Save yourself a mess and clean out the threads first.

Hope this helps

Robyn
So if the bolts have the orange sealer on the top and white sealer on the threads then no need to add sealer to the bolts right?

Right, some come ready to use.

A few more questions.

1) As I re-assemble everything I know a torque wrench won't fit everywhere. I know the head torque is critical. Is there a list of critical torque on the other bolts. I am just trying to save time putting back some of the non torque critical bolts.

2) The first head I pulled I didn't understand fully that the push rods come out easily. I actually pulled the head with them still in. In the process I scratched the side of a few. Should I check them for straightness in case I might have damaged them? I got smarter on the second head and pulled them before hand.

3) I purchased a napa water pump to install while I am in there. They had the same number for both a 95 and a 98. I was trying to use the 130gpm rather than the factory 80gpm. How do I know from the documention what the GPM is? It says HO on the casting so I am assuming it is the 130GPM.

If you apply any torque to the top or case of the Injector it's trash. Only turn by the 30mm part at the tip end of the injector. You might want to change the connectors for the GP's. Make sure the new ones fit tight

Really?? I used the top "square" part to tighten one of mine on the Olds. Injector socket wouldn't fit.

Seems to run fine.

It's possible to 'get away with it' but the injector can be damaged by doing this.

I am going by the warning's I have read and not by practice. I would try to avoid it.

Most of the water pump applications say the meet or exceed the OEM specs. Look at the impeller part and see if it is a lot thicker.

I took the heads to a reputable auto/machine shop. They basically said the heads are cracked beyond repair. They will pressure test them but said it's not worth it and to look for new heads.

Since they do not sell heads I am assuming they are not pulling my leg. Any thoughts on this?

I read some other posts indicating cracks are normal in these heads. Since the machine shop does not specialize in 6.5 diesel heads I am not sure about the diagnosis.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

IRE, that's a bummer. Good luck to you. There are several vendors on this site who sell heads.

See if you can get some pictures of the cracks and post them here. Lots of experienced 6.5'ers here that will be able to tell you if the cracks are superficial or impending doom.

I couldn't see the cracks from the outside. Where do I begin to look to get pictures?

They are probably cracked between the valves(common thing on GM diesel heads) or there may be a hidden crack inside one of the intake or exhaust ports.I hear SS diesel supply sells great heads for the 6.2/6.5.I have'nt bought from these guys before,but i've heard good things about them.How many miles are on your rig?It may have been mentioned or i plain overlooked it.

They are probably cracked between the valves(common thing on GM diesel heads) or there may be a hidden crack inside one of the intake or exhaust ports.I hear SS diesel supply sells great heads for the 6.2/6.5.I have'nt bought from these guys before,but i've heard good things about them.How many miles are on your rig?It may have been mentioned or i plain overlooked it.

Miles are in my autosig(167k). I am having a tough decision at this point. I've got the engine torn down at this point. I need to tow in the spring/summer. Since I don't know how bad the rest of the engine is(cracked block, bearings, etc) I am hesitant to spend $900 on heads. I have to wonder if the heads are this bad then what did the heat do to the rest of the enginer. Leaning towards a re-man long block.

How hard is this to put in now that the engine is almost stripped down? I can probably borrow a lift from someone.

All things to consider.

Once I found out my heads were cracked, which was obvious, I went ahead and pulled the whole engine. I basically tore it down and visually looked for cracks and other damaged to the block. I didn't see anything visually so I put it back together with new heads, several other new parts, and a prayer.

It didn't take much longer to pull the whole engine since most of the accessory parts were already off. I borrowed an engine hoist and stand from my neighbor.

My problem was between the time I tore it down and reassembled it was over several months so remembering were things went even though I had marked them was difficult. I would recommend using something more than an ink pen to write on your tape.