WHO HAS THE BEST TIE ROD SLEEVES? I AM LOOKING FOR SOME TO SELL.

Super Diesel hands down.

I second that!!

WHO HAS THE BEST TIE ROD SLEEVES? I AM LOOKING FOR SOME TO SELL. So you the bad a$$ gunman looking to take the town by storm? Well, you'll just have to get by super diesel, as no one has beat him yethttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif What makes you think you can?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

i don't think he's looking to beat.. he's looking to resell.. what's wrong with that? super diesel sells more sleeves, right? he deserves it for his hard work!

WHO HAS THE BEST TIE ROD SLEEVES? I AM LOOKING FOR SOME TO SELL. So you the bad a$$ gunman looking to take the town by storm? Well, you'll just have to get by super diesel, as no one has beat him yethttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif What makes you think you can?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


WHERE THE HELL DID THIS COME FROM????http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

How much are they and are they needed for 4whl drive launches? I have done countless launches with my old LB7 with no troubles. Maybe i was just lucky..

Super Diesel gets around $70 per set, but you would have to check with him (send him a pm). They aren't needed for 4 wheel drive launches, but I highly recommend them. Just because you haven't had a problem doesn't mean you won't... These will help prevent any problems that may happen, causing more damage and costing more money than these would save.


I find that I launch harder now than I used to knowing the tie rod ends will hold up...

The Super Diesel units are very high quality.

Why the hell ould you need special tie-rods to run at the track??





I am honestly asking this??? I don't know...





Thanks


BIG

BigWill, GM IFS 4x4's tires want to go inward and hop-a-log from what I unerstand. It seems that the compression force of the rods isn't that great until you use the Stainless Steel tie rod sleeves.


If you really want to test yours.... pull a big ol'e stump out of the ground... with the front hooks. Then, I think you'll see why folks are getting them.

I don't know who else makes threaded tie-rod sleeves. Someone sells a replacement tie-rod assemby for many time more $$, but Super Diesel's sleeves are the only I know of, and they are awesome.


Doug

CYCLONE............ Man you are crazy. I wonder? Could you get the price down to 50 bucks a pair? ... shipped? LOL Heck, give it a try and see what happens. I wonder what Super Diesel thinks about this post?

BigWill, GM IFS 4x4's tires want to go inward and hop-a-log from what I unerstand. It seems that the compression force of the rods isn't that great until you use the Stainless Steel tie rod sleeves.


If you really want to test yours.... pull a big ol'e stump out of the ground... with the front hooks. Then, I think you'll see why folks are getting them.

















I understand GM IFS steering completely, i have a 1990 GMC with a SAS to a Dana 60... The first tiem I ahd my truck on the lift at the shop to change oila nd grease the steering, i NOTICED THE EXTREMELY CHEESY TIE-RODS.. the rod ends look strong enough, it is the sleeves... I understand the sleeve to beef the area from stress & compression, but not Stainless Steel, wouldn't HREW or DOM be a better choice of material??? I don't know, But i definately noticed he WEAK STEERING, the old 88-98 steering setup was better than what they have now...





THANSK FOR THE INFO. i checked out some PULLING videos and saw what appered to be HEAVY TOE from the pulling..





But I also wonder what the IFS gusy are doing for front traction, if they were running a Posi or Locker it should even outt he effect i would think and cuase less COMPRESSION, btu I don't believe anyoen but Eaton makes a locker for the front of the IFS trucks...





Interesting, I WILL HAVE TO RESEARCH SOEM MORE..





THANKS AGAIN
WILL

THANKS GUYS I GUESS I WILL CHECK WITH SUPER DIESEL FOR MY SUPPLY.


NO I AM NOT TRYING TO COMPETE WITH ANYONE JUST OFFER THE BEST QUALITY PRODUCTS TO MY CUSTOMERS .

Eaton e locker is a sweet little item to help out when muddin or sled pullin. Wouldn't have another truck without it.


The tie rod sleeves and bar are of supurb quality and are almost too nice to put under the truck. If you have enough power(even a stock truck) and race or sled pull they help alot. I don't worry about anything while pulling or racing anymore, which makes the event even more enjoyable when i don't have to worry about how i'm getting home.

While you are at it, get ahold of Pitman and idler arms as they are shot on probably 90% of the trucks with over 20k on the clock!


I have the SD sleeves on mine now. I don't think that I'll NEED them, but it looks cool, and could save an embarassment if one popped on a 4x4 launch.





I put new Pitman and Idler arms on and it made a WORLD of difference. The drag link is not supposed to rotate at all. I found 2" toe change while rotating mine... :eek:

As the center link rotates upward, (do to the angle of the tie rods) it makes the tires toe in. When the suspension is raised by weight transfer or torsen bar adjustments then the angle becomes more severe,... to the point of binding the joints at each end of the tie rods. This is when they start to flex,... with enough flex and toe in pressure then they will fold. Sleeves help stop the flex, but not the center link rotation, or toe in. SD's center link is strait so no rotation, but it changes steering geometry, this will make it drive different. I've made my own sleeves, also made a bracket to control center link rotation. Both are completely bolt on. I'm still testing, but so far the trucks drive better at the drag strip, and a major difference at the pulling track.


Next step is A-arm bushings they flex too much also.


Not trying to take anything away from SD's setup it's very high quality and a good choice if you are looking to upgrade.

Looking at the geometry when the wheels are at full turn, it is obvious that a straight center link will push the tierods "over center" which makes the steering resist "centerizing" without assistance.





I'll be installing tie rod and pitman arm assist brackets tomorrow if all goes well.

WHO HAS THE BEST TIE ROD SLEEVES? I AM LOOKING FOR SOME TO SELL. So you the bad a$$ gunman looking to take the town by storm? Well, you'll just have to get by super diesel, as no one has beat him yethttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif What makes you think you can?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


WHERE THE HELL DID THIS COME FROM????http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


I guess not all my jokes are funny, well they don't come aross on the net as well.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif


JK; ( " I'll be installing tie rod and pitman arm assist brackets tomorrow if all goes well. ") Is this something you are looking in to selling? Could you post some pictures? That sounds like something that could help!

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/75B_jul12035.jpg

So is the red bracket connected to both the pitman and ilder arm? JRmac, is this the setup JK is talking about?Edited by: BassinRVer

I'm trying to post pics. Forum isn't cooperating. I have the pic in the post, but it won't go. Thankfully, I have it saved so I can paste it. Edited by: Kennedy

http://dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Idler_arm_support.JPG








Basically, I'm so pissed right now as I lost my verbage dicking around trying to get it to post.





$200/set of idler and pitman supports. 3 weeks lead time. Edited by: Kennedy

Has anyone taken off the factory steering damper to see if it is still good. I mean still working after say 60000 miles and several sets of pitman and idler arms? Is it holding up? Does it come into play with worn out pitman and ilder arms?


In other words, does a worn out steering damper wear out the other two parts? Would a aftermarket steering damper help by not wearing the pitman and ilder arm so fast? Or is it the rotation that is the main reason why they wear out so fast?


JK are you putting this bracket(s) on both ilder and pitman arm?Edited by: BassinRVer

The reason that you need tie rod sleeves is simply that in 4wd the tires when under extreme forward thrust will want to toe in due to the center link rotating up and causing the geometry of the steering to change. At truck fest on the 25th there was a chevy that snapped a tie rod 5 feet after his 4wd launch, this is the first time that I have seen this in action but it made me really thankfull I had my tie rod sleeves. Also you may want to PM super diesel on the center link as well for he fabricated a complete track bar for it out of solid stainless steel and just like the rest of his stuff it's truley top notch!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

By the way if it makes you feel any better, ATS diesel performance sells his tie rod sleeves too.

Has anyone taken off the factory steering damper to see if it is still good. I mean still working after say 60000 miles and several sets of pitman and idler arms? Is it holding up? Does it come into play with worn out pitman and ilder arms?


In other words, does a worn out steering damper wear out the other two parts? Would a aftermarket steering damper help by not wearing the pitman and ilder arm so fast? Or is it the rotation that is the main reason why they wear out so fast?


JK are you putting this bracket(s) on both ilder and pitman arm?








If you look at the drag link, you'll see that it resembles a set of MX handlebars in that the ends offset. This offset becomes a lever when input from the wheels is applied as in bumps, turning load, or 4x4 launches. Theis wears the joint or pounds it out one or the other. The key is to not let it rotate.





A tight set of pitman and idler arms goes a long way. The support brackets help even more.





I have both on my truck now. The thing is, we now move on to the next weakest link which is the idler shaft/frame bracket...

More John...........more. Don't know squat about them turn'n things.

The Idler Arm bracket can be reinforced. I have see no need for this thus far. The new idler and pitman arm will wear in and start to move very quickly. 70,000 on mine and there still tight, (they move up and down easy though, but tight) even with the abuse I give them. I tried the same aproach as John K. in my experimentation (mine were bolt on brackets with hiem joints aswell) and deemed it necessary to make a new unit for the sake of toeing in under power while pulling because of the flex in the A arms. The lack of self centering is only at full lock and only momentary. However, this does work for daily driving and the track just fine. Good work John, and in no way is this to take away from him, and he is a great pioneer of things we need. I just need folks to know why I did what I did and why. I sell my part as a race only item. It is for the trully hard core. This is a good alternative. It would be worth a look at a better steering dampener as well. Edited by: Super Diesel

Just for the record, I didn't design or build these. Same with the traction bars I'll be doing next.





If you want something for pulling or racing, the straight design of the the Super Diesel drag link is likely the best choice, but as he stated, race only.

At any rate, it is good you offer these John K http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif.

Gonna see how they work tonight!





My truck pulling experience is limited, but successful nonetheless so far...


Nice thing about it is 7900# weight limit, DOT tires, 26" hook height are the only real rules...

Super Diesel is this your setup? Why is your set up only recommended for the track?


http://dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/75B_jul12035.jpg

NO, SD built his own complete replacement center link.

Then is there a picture of it? Why is it race only? Can his centerlink be used everyday driving? How much is it?

Heartbeatof Canada has posted a pic of it before. I know he drives his daily with it installed, also pulls and drag races. I believe it is $350. Edited by: White Duramax

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/FC5_beefy_rods_0041.jpg

What prevents SD centerlink from rotating? Why are yall saying this CL is for race only, what are the side affects of this CL?

Here is another pic and I posted on the thread in the 2500/3500HD Forum so the thread about it there is at the top.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/928_rods&bar.jpg

Other than the turning radius beeing slightly affected, I don't notice anychanges at all!! IMO

What keep it from rotating like the factory rotates?

What keep it from rotating like the factory rotates?





Nothing, BUT it is straight, and therefore no twisting leverage is applied. There is really no need to retsrict the rotation whatsoever with this setup.





A guy would have to measure the steering change on wheel plates to determine the effect on the steering geometry (specifically rH relationship to LH) during a turn. I don't think it will change aside from not returning itself from full lock...


Edited by: Kennedy

I recently installed SD's centerlink pictured in White Duramax's post. I drive 90 miles/day with it installed and have had no driveability issues, except that it is correct that the turning radius is slightly larger. One thing I like is it is very stable with no play in the steering wheel. And of course all the negative issues when launching in 4x4 are gone, it launches straight, no tow-in, etc.


After driving about 2500 miles since my installation, I'd install it again for all-around use. Keep in mind this is one upgrade you can undo if you don't like it - just keep your stocker.

I have the complete setup from super diesel. I drove out to Muncie, took a 3000 mile trip towing a 10,000# TT. They are great, not a single problem. And I have not noticed the turning radius being any different.


They are a little pricey, but I would do it again.

The reason it's race only is because he is replacing a factory part with something that wasn't tested for thousands of hours under hard conditions by GM engineers. thus if something were to happen on the road you can't come back and sue his pants off!!!! with the tie rod sleeves he's just making a GM part stonger so there is no need for disclosure.

I have over 10,000 miles on my centerlink already and absolutely no issues... Larger turning radius is the only downside... But, having a crew cab feels like I'm driving a bus anyway. And it doesn't push back when turning like the stocker, but that's just something to get used to. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

Larger turning radius is the only possible downside. It doesn't bother me one bit and actually love the way it drives now in a daily driving perspective. Sled pulling or racing.............well, lets say they are chit http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Has this centerlink been used on a truck that has the torsion bars cranked or a truck with green keys like mine. Does SD's centerlink work with this application?

It works very well in this application. Thats mainly what it was designed for, as well as pulling and racing. When used for racing, and high boost launches are in order (+2100), you still should lower the T bars some to controle the side to side movement of the front tires that is a result of not having a front locker. Edited by: Super Diesel

Another reason to still keep the torsion bars lower is for the CV's. The more they are cranked the more bind and load put on them.

The CV's can be a problem with the torsen bars up too far, or green keys. It's not that they break,...... they will just simply un-assemble themselves. The strait center link dose stop rotation. The larger turning radius is caused from one wheel not turning as far as stock geometry will allow. The tighter you turn the more out of alignment the tires get.

Do you tires wear more with this centerlink?

Has this centerlink been used on a truck that has the torsion bars cranked or a truck with green keys like mine. Does SD's centerlink work with this application? That is the setup that I run. Everything seems to be working out great.