I was just thinking. is it possible to put my truck back to stock if say, someone wanted to buy my lift kit and I used there factory parts to go back. I just miss the speed that my truck use to have so much. I used to be able to wax a little 5.0 stang or z28 without a problem. But since the lift and big tires. I can even hardly do that anymore. I'm extremely in love with the looks of my truckhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Heart.gif, and quality of the lift. but I just miss the speed so muchhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Broken Heart.gif. I'm considering the stage 3 suncoast upgrade, so that I can up the power a little more, but I still know that my truck could be faster. I guess I'm just gonna have buy me another honda and boost it. So, I can get back to the drag strip. I just don't know. help me out guys.


my only concern about put the truck back to stock is the mounting tab that was cut off the the stock crossmember mount on the drivers side. how could that be replaced. say if I found someone that was willing to do the switch. I could measure and cut how much that needs to be cut off of theres to replace mine. and as far as the front axle goes. those could be switched up. please fill free to leave comments or smack me in the face for wanting to go fast in a 7000lb truck, and having the dumb idea of putting a beautifully lifted hd back to stock.


I've just always been a function over fashion kinda person. and I don't go offroad in my truck. So, the lift kit is more for show then anything. I just don't know. I'm so damn confused.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8F6_MyHdtaylorsmalibu.jpg

If you did sell it, how much would you be willing to sell the kit for? I don't have any info about the questions you had. I would imagine that you could go back to stock, but don't know

I'd imagine that the only way I could sell it is to have the trucks in the same location. so that I could use the factory stuff off of the buyers truck. since I spent almost $6000 on the whole setup, wheels/tires=$3500 + lift kit/install=2300. it would just all depend on the situation. the lift kit, wheel, and tires are only a few months old. and have never seen any kinda of offroading beside going thru a ditch in my yardhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif. so I just don't know.

Going back to stock is possible, but like you mentioned it requires weling a couple of mounts back on and it will cost a little to do that.


If you want the performance back, you need to re-gear. This will cost $1000ish. You'll probably want between 4.10s and 4.56s with your 35" tires.


Blaine

I sold my lift kit and tires off my old truck or 3500 total... Weld wheels, Parnelli jones tires and Whiplash kit... Paid almost 6500 for all of it.. Also it cost me about 1500 to go back to stock to trade it... Was a pain in the a$$....Good luck...

What did you think was going to happen when you did all that? Put some real gears in it and get back to abusing ricers.

will putting in different gears make that much difference ? i have a 4" lift with 305's and have been thinking about putting in 4.10's - what type of difference will i see ?

Tbone,


I think you'd be better off waiting for higher HP tunes from TTS. I drive around mostly in the 120hp setting and it pulls my 285's very well. Your 305's are about half an inch taller, but when TTS comes out with a 120HP tune for the LLY you'll be set.


Doug

will putting in different gears make that much difference ? i have a 4" lift with 305's and have been thinking about putting in 4.10's - what type of difference will i see ? 4.10`s would be perfect for 33" tires. You would not want to go any lower then 4.10`s unless you plan on going to 35" tires or taller. 4.10`s would put the truck back to nearly the same as when it had the 30.5" and 3.73`s. Actually 34`s is where it would fall, however the 4.10`s would help due too the added weight of the 33`s. Does that make sense? hope so!

What would the $$s be for changing gears. I think you would lose that much just swapping back to stock.


Gears sound the way to go, but I don't know on the $$. Anybody have that info??

thanks Doug


HDMAX - will putting in 4.10's change rpm levels while driving or will it pretty much stay the same

I just put the same lift on my HD, installed myself, and knowing what it takes to install the lift, dont take it off, there is a good chance it won't be the same. There is a mounting tab on the top of the front diff. and it was cut off also, and I dont think your going to be welding that back on. Save yourself a lot of trouble and regear. Its about a grand, but thats where your power loss is.

I replaced my 3.73 with 4.10 and it cost me about $2000 to do it. I do not regret spending the much money because I got the performance back that I lost when I went with the 35 inch tires.


Remember you have to replace boththe front and rears which costs more.Edited by: BassinRVer

How do you like the CST lift? Does it increase the front tire width?

yeah, I really think I'm just gonna go for the regear. I was apart of one of the big regear topics from a while back.I think everyone figured out that you need a 4.33 gear for 35" tires to match the factory specs of a 265/75 and 3.73. So I guess a 4.10 would be sufficient. but first I'm gonna build up the allison. then go from there.


Has anyone launched in 4wd with a lifted truck similar to mine. I tried the other night and it was the worst feeling in the world. because my truck sits just a little higher in the front then in the back. when I took off the truck slamed back and I think my front tires where trying to kiss each other. I do have the SD tie rods, but I think I'm gonna need his centerlink bar kit. cause the toe in was so bad I couldn't keep the truck straight. comments would be help full.


I think I'm just gonna bit my tongue and just go sit in the bleachers at the dragstriphttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif.(before the ole allison bits firsthttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif). I think I'm just gonna boost another honda to dragrace with. My last build up I didn't finish because of my truck(haha I sold it all to get my lift,wheel, and tires.) it would have been a very reliable 400whp honda civic hatch. it would have been good for some mid to low 11 sec. passes. my 10's if I could drive it right.


thanks for your help guys. now i just need to get rich so I can go ahead and do all of this. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


-Chad-


Edited by: allstok03Dmax

$2000 seems a bit spendy for a basic two-set gear change. My local guy quoted me under $850, and I think FWPW would do it for $1200 ish.

Alot of people underestimate the decrease in mileage and performance when lifting a truck. Returning the truck back to stock wouldn't be very cost effective. Regearing will help but don't expect it to be anything like stock. Your mileage will not go up much, you'll gain some power back but again it won't accelerate like it did stock. Regearing is expensive and something only a reputable shop should do. Front and rear gears along with a locker or LSD plus gear oil can run you upwards of $1500.

BassinRVer who are you asking about the lift?

I was asking allstok03max but anyone can answer it.
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How do you like the CST lift? Does it increase the front tire width?


I'll give my $.02. I http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Heart.gif my CST, and the wheels don't stick out like the Fabtech if that's what you mean.

I was asking allstok03max but anyone can answer it.
Gotcha. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. allstok03max is running a RCD lift not CST. If your are thinking about going with CST they make the best lift IMO. They are on the expensive side but you get what you paid for right!?

Re-gear, re-gear, re-gear... It is the only way to go. Keep your mileage, keep your power, and keep your view. It is so much fun to smoke the riceys when they don't even suspect it. It cost me about $1200 to have it re-geared. I love it!

ok, after a few days of checking into this ive come to this conclusion, and please correct me if im wrong here (and this would just be for my situation - 4" lift with 305's) - regearing to 4.10's probably wont make much difference for gas mileage, minimal if any, and especially not more at highway speeds as the rpm's would be higher all around and especially in 5th gear locked, correct ?? so with that id doubt there would be any mileage difference - power difference should be felt for sure but how much im not sure - pulling power would increase for sure as the gears are now geared toward doing so, but the things already pulls like an SOB !!

For anyone even CONSIDERING gears. Be forewarned...don't expect your mileage to go up at all, if it does the difference will be minimal.

I did not notice my mileage difference but the performance did noticeable go up.

you can get a chip for a lot less than a regear. It will keep you look and make your acceleration and cruise faster. SP33D has a Rancho lift 35 tires and chips and I saw him drag. I have chip on mine and I can out run most sock gassers, even with a slippin clutch.


You don't need new gears unless 1) you do a lot of steep or very rocky off roading or 2) you are doing a lot of extremely heavy towing. Diesel has a lot of torque. Even with big tires. My dyno at lvl3 was 335 hp and over 650 ft# torque. (with slipping clutch)


fuel mileage. lots of city drivin will decrease mileage due to heavy bigger tires . However, highway drivin will increase mileage due to increased tire size. With 35s your avg speed is increased by about 10% (use a GPS to check).


Get a chip! forget the gears! Enjoy the ride! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


PS lower gears will reduce mileage: same speed, higher RPMs, more Fuel for same distance, lower MPG. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gifEdited by: Deadeye

well, regear is about my only choice. I've already got the edge/attitude setup. and and can tell you know. if your don't have the self controll to moderate your right foot and the lvl5 position on the attitude. then you better plan on a tranny mod if you lift you truck and still wanna have some power. I've just pretty much left my truck on the 2nd and 3rd setting. 4 and 5 is just to much on the stock tranny with 35. that's the whole reason of the post. I've also got one other choice I'm lookin at. that is selling the truck. So, I'm thinkin about postin in the forsale area. if anyone is intrested just let me know or PM me.


-Chad-

you could always go to a 305 size tire instead, ive heard that there is quite a difference between the 305 and 315 in regards to power and delivery. if you sold the truck and got another one stock, you would still have to do the tranny if you wanted to run higher power levels so your almost in the same spot there - needing a tranny to run more power.....i say re-gear it, do the tranny mod, chip it, and youre set !!

After spending $40K on a truck and thousands and thousands more on lifts, tires, wheels, chips, exhausts, etc., who cares if your mileage goes up or down a few MPG? The difference in fuel costs over a year is still WAY less than the average single mod we do to our trucks.

Go ahead, build the tranny, re-gear, and get a bigger chiphttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif and keep enjoying the view from that lifted HDhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif DinoMaxhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Good point DinoMax, I think sometimes we worry too much about MPG. This truck is a blast. I wouldn't care if it got worse mileage, but it is something to brag about.


Dennis

please fill free to leave comments or smack me in the face for wanting to go fast in a 7000lb truck, and having the dumb idea of putting a beautifully lifted hd back to stock.


Consider yourself smacked in the face!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Regear if you want, add tranny mod, whatever, but don't even consider damaging the look of that truck!!


Plus that, you are still going fast in a 7000lb truck, even if not as fast as you want.

If I had the funds and didn't need my truck for normal use, I would not even hesitate. I would have the California Super Truck (CST) 11" lift, 4.56 gears, air locker in front, 38/15.50/17" Parnelli Jones Dirt Grips tires, Trail Ready front bumper, Warn 15,000# electric wench, Suncoast stage 3, and then go from there.


The CST lift kits are probably the most money, but if you can afford it, and always want the best, that is the route to take.

While the CST is unquestionally the best of the "drop everything" bracket kits, there is a lot to be said for the strength and stability of a knuckle kit that increase front track width. With my 4" Rancho, I cornered so hard the other day I skidded both front tires (BFG AT KOs in 295). There was very little body roll and the truck remained stable throughout the "maneuever"................not that I intend to run autocross anytime soon.............

For anyone even CONSIDERING gears. Be forewarned...don't expect your mileage to go up at all, if it does the difference will be minimal.


Well said! the best I have seen is 13.0mpg. Milage I could care less at this point, what it is it is. Now it's all about who has the baddddddest truck!

It's not the gears by themselves that worsen mileage, it is getting the engine out of it's optimal operating range with a given tire/gear combo. That and larger tires weigh more, have more friction, and have more aerodynamic drag; meaning they take more power to turn.


Guys get very good mileage with tires up to about 295/75R16s and the juice when empty. I think the engine likes to be in that 1800 rpm range when cruising empty. I am not sure when trailering heavy.


However, there is an optimum rpm for each load. With gas engines, wind a bit higher and mileage drops a little, but if you lug the motor the mileage drops a lot. I once picked up a mile per gallon with an 87 4x4 Suburban with 31" tires when I went from 3.42 gears to 4.10s.


These same principals will apply to our turbo diesels, except I think out turbo makes our engines less sensitive to being lugged.


Vodoos very nice truck, with an 8" lift and 37s, is just not going to get great mileage with any gear ratio. However, my truck with a 4" lift, Juice w/Attitude, and 295/75R16s, gets about 13.5 mpg in town and 19 mpg on the freeway in the heat of the summer with the engine fan on all the time and the AC running. I have not yet run with these tires and the lift in the fall, but my fall mileage always is better than my summer by at least 1 mpg on the freway and .5 mpg in town. However, when the winter fuel comes out in late winter here my mileage drops about one mpg on the freeway.Edited by: afp1

Blane;


I have been tracking my fuel economy for each fill since I bought the truck last September. Range prior to lift was 19.0 to 21.5 mpg. Prior to lift ran 265s and did no 4x4 or off road, never got stuck in traffic and did some long trips on flat roads at lower elevation.


Since then my average is 18.1 mpg. Since the lift (last December) the low is 16.0 and high is 21.5 mpg. This includes highway, off roading, 4x4 (stuck for a day and a half http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif ), winter time hi idle, city and a couple times stuck in traffic for several hours.


I have not had the speedo/odo reset but my miles are adjusted by 1.03879 for the dealer installed LT265s run from the date of purchase past the lift and until the 35s were installed (February). The calcs for mileage were then adjusted to 1.1359. These adjustments were determined by a GPS.


Anyhow, without doing any towing, but doing a lot of driving in the mountains, going over passes above 11,000 feet, and driving constantly at elevations over 5,280 feet, I can confidently advise any member with a 6" lift kit and 35" tires that gear change-out is not necessary.


Towing, may be different depending on what, where, how often, and how much $$$ you want to spend.


BTW, I run the HTJA at lvl 3 most all the time. Also, the clutch has been slipping for a long time and I bet the mileage would be better if this were not an issue.


I have been doing some 'rockcrawlin' at over 10,000 feet for the last few weeks. 2Lo and 1st gear and I leave my foot off the throttle and the truck can go anywhere! (HTJA at zero). The only reason I might even consider a gear change would be for this activity due to the fact that even at low setting the descent is sometimes too fast http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Rock On.gif .


Someone should post a 'poll' to see how many have gear change-outs. Then we could learn why and the results from several guys who had actuallly made the changes.