Can we compare some 0 - 60 times. Maybe once i've seen some others i can make a judgment call as to weather or not i can improve mine or i'm getting all i'm going to get with this tired truck...lol.


Currently i run 0 - 100km/hr in 14 seconds


I'm really very curious as to what you modified guys are running for times.

when I first bought my truck, it was about the same 13-14 (and that was with the engine revved and boost pressure up before take-off), I'm closer to 8 seconds now, I will find a passenger with a stop watch tomorrow and give you some numbers. Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Very Cool, look forward to the numbers, i only used a second hand on my watch as the numbers don't justify the stop watch yet.


I put on dual breathers today, see what changes on the trip home tonight!

Well no noticable difference with the dual breathers, 0 - 60 MPH was still the same so on my day off yesterday i spent it removing 90% of the webcasting and beveled the snorkel intake & air box pre-turbo, still no difference in time accept maybe pulls slightly better going up hills. Only thing i've noticed with the dual breathers is a lot of blowby oil out the filler neck and dipstick tube.


Vacuum questions: Is this correct?


Waste Gate Vac = ~16 idle ~17 1100 rpm


EGR = ~5 idle ~5 1100 rpm


Map sensor on firewall = ~21 idle ~21.5 1100 rpm


These vac tests were done by removing the line and plugging in the gauge, not an inline test while hooked up.


Vac pump is new.

EGR? You mean yours still works? I thought they had all been long ago disabled.

CR- I notice your wearing 35's, do you have stock gearing? Probably doesn't matter with the 6.5, except for those first couple seconds off the line. Maybe I'm wrong, just a thought.

TDG Yes the EGR still seems to work, but seems to make no difference if its hooked up or not. Still not sure on the benifits of removing it on this truck, how much diff will it make to remove it ? Will i be getting all kinds of error codes? How much does it hurt the truck to leave it on but leave it plugged?


VanHauler Yes thems big shoes to fill but one would think that 0 - 60 times would increase by a second at least, no?


Kennedy If you catch this post, i can buy a boost fooler here for $200 Canadian, not sure on the producer yet. I would preffer to pick up yours but my truck has that stupid MAP sensor on the firewall also, how long to ship one to Alberta, will pay for fast delivery to get it quicker! Maybe better to buy your chip instead.......hmmmmm... very tough decision.

Disabling the EGR won't set any codes, as long as you leave a vacuum hose going to the BARO sensor, just remove the T to the EGR. It will help with performance and longevity in the long run, recycling sooty exhaust into the intake over time will create an ugly ugly mess inside the intake and heads, restricting airflow, and it cant be good for your valves...


so since it looks like your looking at a set of heads any way, just make sure when you put the manifold back on you leave the metal plates in the manifold gaskets, disabling the EGR completely.


Oh and by the way, I finally found a stopwatch operator and I will be running mine tomorrow and post my 0-60 results. With a little tweaking I think I can get it into the 6s, we'll see.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

My truck is 4.5 tons plus 400 lbs of tools and junk.
the best time I could get was 15 sec but most runs took longer.

CR,
Spend a few dollars on a fixed resisters or spend alot on a plug in aftermarket piece.

With a little tweaking I think I can get it into the 6s, we'll see.


You're kidding, right?


Considering that a 6.5 does about 75mph in the quarter, I'm not sure how you would go 0-60 in anywhere near 6 or 7 seconds. I'm not trying to be a dick, I just don't think you'll be anywhere near that mark.


I've done sh!t loads to my 6.5 and don't think I could run 0-60 that quick. I am curious though, so keep us posted.


Cheers Bob

I'm convinced, ALL those chips out there are overrated and overpriced and I plan to prove that. My truck has stock PCM and boost control and it flies after the mods I've done. Tires are a touch oversize, but that doesnt seem to slow it down any. I remember how disappoined I was when I first got it and it ran a measley 14 sec time too, its a totally different truck now. I can peg the speedometer (85Mph) on a long on ramp. If I have enough time this weekend, I plan to pull the injectors and bump them up about 100psi and tweak the pump a little more on the test stand to see what I can get out of her.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

LL those chips out there are overrated.


Have to agree with you there. Mine came with the reflash. I swapped it for a stocker out of the same tpye of truck and it didn't feel 30hp slower, just less black smokehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

QM seems to be the only one willing to give up a time... lol.


Seems that if i'm running 14 seconds now and not from a braked start i'm doing pretty good turning these 35" monsters.


Now all i have to do is either buy a new engine or fix these heads. Oh ya, btw my time hasn't changed with the cracked heads either?


I will give TDG a little credit with the dual breathers now, although 0-60 times didn't decrease it does seem to pull better on hills but the oil filler breather does vent alot and tend to drip oil. I put the original cap back on for the ride to work (100km), big mistake! Got to work and lifted the hood, oil dipstick tube blew out 2 ltrs of oil all over the engine! Swapped it back now.

yeah, they will drip a little oil on the ground, in my opinion thats better than having it sucked into the intake. If I remember correctly didnt you have the intake off of yours and mentioned it was full of crud, combination of EGR soot and crankcase oil really cakes things up in there. Have you noticed any difference in operating temps? The biggest reason I suggest to run dual breathers instead of just one is the volume of crankcase air these engines produce will do just as you say blow the dipstick right out of the tube, now tell me that much dirty air going into the intake won't make a difference?Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Yes i had my snorkel off only, was full of crude, maybe only 1/2" hole left for air flow, all the rest was plugged. 0-60 was 20 seconds before cleaning it along with a bad waste gate selonoid at the same time. New selonoid gave me 17 seconds and thats when i opened up the snorkel and cleaning crude gave me 15 seconds, gutting the back of the airbox and covering with mosquito mesh from a screen door gave me another 1 second down to 14 and still sucking air from inside engine compartment. Cleaning out webcasting later didn't seem to produce anything but i could be wrong as it was done within a day of the dual breathers and maybe in combination they gave me better pull up hills?


I think most of the crud came from idling @ 1100 rpm alot of the time as my truck is my office and i work out of it every day, gotta keep warm in the winter and cool in the summer. The mileage doesn't reflect the engine condition very well as i probably idle 3 hrs/day in summer and 8hrs/day in winter but still only change oil every 5000 kms (3100 miles) or more.


Still no codes with the leaking heads.

Holy Cow! what a sleeper, as soon as I find a stopwatch operator, I'll get some numbers, its under 8 but I dare not claim anything specific without a second body, but right now what I need is to find a doctor for that kid with the mustang, pretty sure his eyes popped out of their sockets when I left him at the lights ;) If the glowplug-less setup does what I'm hoping, I should be able to increase the boost and fuel delivery safely and really make this thing launch!Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

If the glowplug-less setup does what I'm hoping, I should be able to increase the boost and fuel delivery safely and really make this thing launch!





Huh? glowplug-less? What the heck are ya doin? I have some serious ideas for mods that no one else is doing but never considered that in any way.

check my other thread....


Oh, and did I mention that I'm still runnin a stock PCM and boost control setup, makes better mileage, runs cooler, and only makes a slight haze of black smoke that dissappears after the first 5 feet (the truck and the smoke ;)Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

QM Is your truck a 4 x 4 dually? Your pic looks like a dually.


I found this today. 1998


Kilometers : 78302
Stock# : 753A
Status : Pre-Owned
Classification : Extended Cab
Vin : 1GTHK39F2WE534540
Transmission : Automatic
Cylinders : 8
Fuel : Diesel
Drive : 4X4
Doors : 2
Passenger : 5
Interior Color : Grey
Exterior Color : Brown
Vehicle Options : Air Conditioning, Alloy Wheels, Power Seat, Power Mirrors, Power Locks, Running Boards, Keyless Entry, Long Box, Tow Package, Dual Air Bag, Tilt Steering, Power Windows, Dual Rear Wheels, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Rear Defroster, Leather Interior, Cruise Control, CD Player, Cassette, Anti-Lock Brakes


I am seriously considering purchasing it. $25,000


Anyone know anything bad about this year? Will be taking it for a 0-60 test possibly on monday.

I'm convinced, ALL those chips out there are overrated and overpriced and I plan to prove that. My truck has stock PCM and boost control and it flies after the mods I've done. Tires are a touch oversize, but that doesnt seem to slow it down any. I remember how disappoined I was when I first got it and it ran a measley 14 sec time too, its a totally different truck now. I can peg the speedometer (85Mph) on a long on ramp. If I have enough time this weekend, I plan to pull the injectors and bump them up about 100psi and tweak the pump a little more on the test stand to see what I can get out of her.


I can't wait.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif


Sometimes, I'm not sure you're paying attention. You know, Kennedy is having another open house next month. I'd sure like to see you there and strap that Blazer to the dyno.

You asked for it Ron, dyno's dont lie. But we'll see who's paying attention.

What I've tried to do is help a young, inexperienced man avoid embarassment with some advice. If you're bound and determined to embarass yourself, I can't stop it.


Your comment about chips being overrated... Have you looked at the dyno data that I've posted previously? If you say that is overrated, then you must not know how to read graphs. I'd be glad to help you learn how, if you're willing.


When I was young like you, I shot my mouth off quite often. I have always been one of the best there is at what I do, but age has shown me how much there really is that I don't know and has brought some humility. While it is apparent that you know about the inner workings of DS 4 pumps and have access to an injection pump test stand, your comments reveal a lack of understanding of the larger system as a whole. You should quit worrying about being the most prolific poster here and listen to what some other, more experienced individuals have to say. I learned an awful lot about diesels from discussing with individuals on the Diesel Page. You, too, could learn a lot.


I really want to help.

Ron, this site isn't about embarrassing or pissing anyone off, thats not why your here, thats not why I'm here, nor anyone else. This is about sharing experience and knowledge so we can all collectively learn about these trucks and hopefully apply that knowledge for our personal uses. Hey, I've learned quite a bit since I joined this site too, I don't know everything about every system on these trucks, but I know what I know. I do infact consider myself a subject matter expert on these pumps, and I know a lot about these engines and trucks, I've proven that time and time again, and I'll prove it on the dyno.

Cool, but it seems like I've proven a few things on the dyno that you refuse to accept. Am I missing something?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

I tend to agree that the chips and reflashes available currently are not putting the power out one would expect. Ronniejoe's burb gained 20hp and 35lbs of tq at the wheels, from his dyno post. While chips cost less than reflashes it's a lot of money spend for not a huge gain.
I have a reflash and like it just feel there should have been more pepper.
JK has a flash comming out someday and maybe will find those lost horses we all desire.

He's right ron, your dyno post proves that, chips/ICs/Wastegate controllers all add up too a low bang/hi buck combination, and we've all heard guys on here complaining about the measley gains chips have given them.

In all reality, the mods all work together. Kennedy had a stock 6.5 on his dyno (not mine) that made 142 hp. Mine made 223 hp. Thats a 57% increase (81 hp). No, these can't really be used to determine actual gain on my truck, but I believe they are representative. I don't have data on the chip alone with no other mods, but it might look different then.


The big gain was at 2550 RPM and was really significant from a real world, seat of the pants perspective. The bulge at 2550 rpm (seen in the dyno data) between the stock programming (this was with intercooler, high pop injectors, K&N filter and Banks exhaust, so it's not stock mechanically) and top curve is 93 lb-ft and 45 hp gain at that point. That's a 28% increase from 335 lb-ft to 428 lb-ft and 163 hp to 208 hp.


The peak power numbers don't reflect as big of a gain as they could because I'm getting too far off design point for the GM 4 turbo charger. The big gain came in the middle of the rpm range.


The 6.5 is not a Duramax, where one plug-in module can turn the truck into a screamer with no other changes. The 6.5 needs a systems approach. I contend that there is more to be gained than what I have gained so far. We will see.


On edit:


TDG, you were posting at about the same time as me. Read this post, then see if you want to change your mind. The chip was about $350 and the boost control goes for about $90. A 28% gain at the point where I run while towing is not something to sneeze at. And, no, he's not right. As I said earlier, it takes a systems approach.


My Suburban is competitive with brand new, stock Duramax's, PowerStrokes and Cummins 600's. I've spent a lot less than you would need to spend to buy one of those, so I'd say I've gotten a big bang for my buck!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif And, it is easy to talk when there is no hard data to refute or back up statements. Hook your blazer to a 9000 lb travel trailer and head out across I-10 or I-40 toward California. See how long you can maintain 70 mph. You will overheat, run high EGT and the computer will cut back your fuel (if you don't blow the coolant cork first). My dyno numbers are good, but where my truck really shines now is being able to sustain 75 mph on a 95 degree day at 3000 ft above MSL. That's precisely where you will find that you need intercooling and higher boost to keep your engine working. Guaranteed.


The proof's in the pudding. My pudding tastes pretty good.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gifEdited by: ronniejoe

Well I guess the only way to settle this is at open house then isnt it? Put our trucks on the same dyno and compare #'s.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

I was talking chips and reflashes. I feel the intercooler is a must and should have been there from the start. You can feel the power cut back when running hard towing at 12lbs of boost. I don't like the high cost of the kits available plus my plow frame is in the way so I am running without one, that will change though.
On a dyno I doubt the temp will rise fast enough to cut back fuel as most runs are for 30 seconds under full throttle.

TDG on a Dyno...Finally, Hopefully.


I'd love to hear the numbers. Wish I could be there.


Joey - IAT's rise QUICK - REAL QUICK. I've seen it first hand.





Good Luck to All.

before the mods, IATs were definitely high enough before to cut fuel back noticeably, it was a dog on a hot day...I haven't once felt it let up even a little since then.

Well looks like i opened a real can of worms with this topic. But where's the 0-60 times.


I just picked up a Stock 2000 Chev LS 2500 4x4 with 154,000 km on it as i couldn't be down with my other truck. I checked the 0-60 with it and came up with 15 sec's a couple of times. Not to bad but i guess some of the mods i had done with old 95 and 340,000 km was quicker @ 14 secs, makes me wonder what it would be doing with stock tires instead of the 35's.


I will be starting modes on this new truck over the next few weeks and keeping track with each mod. I will post results as we go. First little mod will be the dual breathers (easiest task) as long as it doesn't cover my engine in oil. Then probably new 3 or 4" pipes, then boost control, probably some air intake mods (i have my own ideas on that) and then when i get brave maybe open up that injection pump. Will have to PM TDG for that info....lol.


BTW.....Anyone intersted in the old 95 once its up and running again?

I did a quick check last night. Not acurate with a g-tech, but with a stop watch by myself...


7,000 lb K2500 Suburban LS 8600 GVW. 10.06 seconds on first try. Not great, but ok. The only real way to measure 0-60 times is to use a g-tech. Sometimes fingers get a little happy and improve 0-60 time.


It's clear who tows heavy and who doesn't.

When I first got my truck with the malfunctioning wastegate solenoid (not sure when exactly it was kicking in, but I know it would get up to 136 kPa so ~6-7 psi boost) and an otherwise empty truck I was doing 0-60 in about 9.5 seconds. This is 100% bone stock with a 3.73 in back. I also did this time on a cold day (~35 degrees).


The other day, I tried again and recorded a 13 second time. This is summer (~85 degrees), but this is also with the problems I've been having recently (see my other post) which have yet to be solved, and which I imagine had a greater impact. Since my first run, the only mod I did was put on the Heath Boost Controller. When I get back out to Indiana next week, I want to put on a 3.5" or 4" FULL STRAIGHT PIPE exhaust (anyone have a suggestion on this? All the systems I've seen have cats and/or mufflers... I want no cat and no muffler). I also plan on putting the high boost spring on with the Heath Boost Controller and trying to set it for roughly 12 psi boost(~170 kPa, I think). With these mods, I would expect the 0-60 on a cold day to dip to around 8 seconds, and 9-10 on a warmer day.


With the full trailer on, all bets are off. Don't even think about measuring 0-60 time with anything besides a calendar! Actually, in all honesty the thing can get out of its own way just fine and it's the most comfortable vehicle I've ever towed with. Cruise right along at 85 and the thing doesn't care a bit, it just takes a while to get there. :) It kills me, though, when someone in a Duramax/Cummins/PowerStroke just pulls away from me like I'm standing still when we both have full trailers.


I'll have to search for when Kennedy's upcoming open house is. I would like to attend if I can and get a chance to test my truck on the dyno, get some ideas for what else I can do and get a chance to meet some of the fine members of this list in person.Edited by: tdupuis

if you want a true 4" straight pipe without a muffler or cat then you might have to build one yourself. carquest and places that sell semi exhaust are good places to buy pipe. using kennedy's downpipe makes it much easier because then all you need is a 3" to 4" adapter and your all set.

I got a pass/stopwatch lined up for tomorrow...I think I'm going to rename this truck, its not a Blazer, its a time machine!

I'm just trying to compare numbers here. I've got an 8000lb bus, that so far in warm weather, clocks about 17 seconds 0-60 time. I get about 10-13 mpg, w/ 4.10 rear. Just wondering where everyone else stacks up at?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil%20Smile.gif it's now the 12th of august...any times yet TDG?

pulling pump and injectors tomorrow

I found the G-tech I bought for my brother a while ago. The book seems to have been thrown away so I am not sure if I am using it right.


The other problem is there aren't any flat sections of road long enough around here.


Yesterday, I found a pretty good spot and the g-tech said it was 9.09 seconds.


I launched with the boost gauge pegged (15psi) and left 2 good long black marks. The speedometer went right to 20 and stayed there till the tires grabbed. I didn't try it again yet.

by the stop watch method not repeated yet (hard to find a no traffic spot on the highway!!) 9.1 http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif. Sunny afternoon, 85+ degrees. Nothing but black smoke off the line (from the engine, NOT the tires, with the new turbo boost spools much slower). Stalled against the brakes to try to build some boost, no go. Now, with a little nitrous fog to clean up that low RPM smoke....I'd probably have parts scattered all over the highway!


Will try to repeat the 0-60, but dont have access to G tech so will have to be stop watch again.


On edit: 93 3/4 ton GMC ext cab long box 4X4 auto, dont know exact weight, 265/75's uncorrected speedo. Previous time was wishful thinking: actual was 9.25 not 8.25, backed up with 9.1 today. Maybe I was thinking about the time after nitrous!


Edited by: dslhead

thats apples and oranges dslhead, your mechanical setup doesnt have nearly as many hurdles to jump to make more power as the electronics do. Stock 93 is rated at 200Hp, where my 94 stock is rated at 195. Don't get me wrong, I would realy enjoy going head to head beefed up DB2 vs beefed up DS4. Tire size is same as mine, so it would be a good run.

TDG, as edited above time was actually 9.25 not 8.25 backed up today with 9.1. Memory is a wonderful thing when its selectivehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif.

TDG, as edited above time was actually 9.25 not 8.25 backed up today with 9.1. Memory is a wonderful thing when its selectivehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif.


What gear ratio do you have?


Do you have weak brakes? It seems like you should be able to build at least a little boost.

I've run a couple of 8.9's since I reported earlier. However, there is a lot of variability with a stop watch.

whatnot, brakes are new, boost guage really doesnt move. With the stock turbo, building boost was no problem. The penninsular really builds slow, but +/- 17lbs at the higher RPMs. 3.73 rear end I think.

dslhead - put your Gm turbo back on, set the spring for ~12-14psi, rerun your 0-60


Try launching off idle, half-staged, and full-staged for comparison, in case of loss to excessive tire spin.


See if low-rpm torque makes any difference, while losing a little on the high end.

thanks GMCTD, IIRC the 0-60 with the GM-4 was in the 10.5 - 11 sec range. I did have the pump bumped when the new turbo went on, the new turbo eats all the fuel its being given once it spools up at 2300 RPM+, so it seems I'm losing on the bottom end but more than gaining it on the top. When running the 9.1 this morning, I did get a small chirp out of the brand new michelin 265 75's! Nothing like with the stock GM-4 though, I could get some pretty good spin when full staged.


I'm not running an intercooler yet, will an intercooler improve the 0-60's much? Max boost now on 0-60 is about 17 lbs.

Above 10psi, sustained Boost levels really kick the IAT's up over 220deg, so at those quick runs, you're probably not seeing any damaging levels or reduction in power.


Keep a close watch on EGT - will directly reflect increasing IAT

This is probably too much but if you add NitrousOxide at take off it will spool the turbo faster and keep IAT's down due to it's cold as it evaporates, supercritical is the word. anything that evaporates below 0 is supercritical.

yes, that would clear up my smoke for sure, but may also clear up the bank account due to scattered motor parts...all that low end torque might not make things all that happy!

17psi + cranked DB2 + 18:1 compression + Hiflow injectors + and 4" exhaust = 0-60 in 9.1? That doesn't seem to add up for me, somethings not set right, have you checked the pump timing? You must have opted for the larger exhaust housing turbo from peninsular, makes a big difference in how long they take to spool.

didnt know they had options on exhaust housing size. They had mentioned a large 300HP one and a smaller 250HP one, I went with the 250 HP one, a different housing was never offered or mentioned. Anyone else go with a different housing??

Looking at their site, which may not be completely accurate, they show a 190Hp turbo with a very small exhaust housing, and a very large one for the 300Hp.


http://www.peninsulardiesel.com/compare.htm


The smaller housing will cause boost pressure to increase very rapidly on acceleration and must be wastegated to prevent overspooling. The larger one may or may not have to use one because they don't spool as quickly. Normally, instead of wastegating they are matched to size of the engine to prevent overboosting.


There's LOTS of turbos out there so don't think I'm trying to throw them into 2 categories, but these two pictures show both extremes.

mine is not wastegated. So, whats gonna help that big hog spool faster?

simple, a smaller exhaust housing ;)


When the turbo is fully spooled up, does the truck smoke at all?


What I'm wondering is if your getting enough fuel, how much did you crank the pump up by? What you want is to have just a haze of black smoke that clears up just as you reach you peak boost, since you have a non wastegated turbo, if the smoke clears at 5# instead of 17, when you increase the fuel the turbo will spool quicker and make more boost as well, 17 sounds low for 250Hp.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

Ahhh, the ever elusive simple exhaust housing swap. TDG, no smoke at all when boost is up (2500RPM+, about 10lbs). Total bumps on the pump is about 5/8 turn IIRC (was done in 2 stages, one was a couple years ago). Absolute peak boost seen was 21, 3000 RPM up hill unloaded locked in 3rd.


On edit, pump timing I think is in the 7 degree range. Edited by: dslhead

give it another ½ turn and see how your boost spools up, I would say off hand as long as you keep it under 30 your OK with your setup, more fuel will help it get there quicker.

OK, DSLhead, I hope you got yours running the way you like now, I"m putting my new timing chain in first thing in the morning. Can't wait to see how this baby runs proper and steady valve/pump timing and my new Hi-Pops and Hot IP, and dual breathers of course.

thanks TDG, I just got back from a week dragging the trailer up and down Vancouver Island, truck ran great. Max boost seen was about 25 lbs (3000 RPM locked in 3rd). Ran WAY better towing with the penn turbo than with the old GM-4. It would hit a sweet spot in OD at about 2300 RPM and just fly. Buddy I trailer with has a powerstroke 4X4 van and I had no problem running with him (he used to be able to walk away easily from me). So, of course now I need (such a subjective word, need...) an intercooler, JK fan clutch, bigger tranny cooler......

I'm convinced, ALL those chips out there are overrated and overpriced and I plan to prove that. My truck has stock PCM and boost control and it flies after the mods I've done. Tires are a touch oversize, but that doesnt seem to slow it down any. I remember how disappoined I was when I first got it and it ran a measley 14 sec time too, its a totally different truck now. I can peg the speedometer (85Mph) on a long on ramp. If I have enough time this weekend, I plan to pull the injectors and bump them up about 100psi and tweak the pump a little more on the test stand to see what I can get out of her.


I can't wait.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif


Sometimes, I'm not sure you're paying attention. You know, Kennedy is having another open house next month. I'd sure like to see you there and strap that Blazer to the dyno.








DOG GONE IT!!!! I wish it didn't take 24 hours of driving for me to get to JK's..............This I would love to see and strap the ole Diesel Interceptor to the dyno. But there is a guy who has an older anolog dyno that goes to 250 HP herre in town and he only wants $45 per hour to strap it on......mybe I should treat myself to some Diesel fumes and see how the OEM EPROM vs Heath MaxiTork 2.0 stack up against each other. Just a thunk...........http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


Yeah I know Ron I'm wimping out......Edited by: 16gaSxS

I'm convinced, ALL those chips out there are overrated and overpriced and I plan to prove that.


Okay in January I did a number of things to my 95 6.5. This is about the Max E Tork chip I got from Heath and the Turbo Master waste gate controller. How do they work? In a word SWEEEET!
I added the Turbo Master before the chip and injectors, my boost was INOP prior to install because of leaking vacum line. So as soon as boost was back running about 9 PSI with stock chip no codes I had good power and mpg went back up.
Durring all the other things and adding the chip the truck was in my shop a couple of weeks. I did all my mods and changes and put Heaths Max E Tork chip in and fired it up and every thing ran good. Boost was at about 11 PSI and I left it there for awhile. I took my tour to the South West and was happy with they way the truck ran.
Well I did a 0-60 MPH time and with all the improvements the time was very close to pre chip and injectors ect. Didn't seem right so pick up the phone and called Bill Heath. Well after talking with Bill I did a couple of things. 1. I pulled a 5,000lb water trailer up a one mile aprox 6% grade the truck went right up to 55 mph in second I let up it shifted and kept pulling in 3rd to 60 when I backed off as EGT was at 1350 pre turbo. I did it again and simualar results eccept I back off bit sooner and didn't run up to 60 mpg to keep temps in line.
2. Next I put the EOM chip in and did the same thing. This time the truck did get up to 55 mph but took an extra 1/2 mile to get there boost at about 9+ PSI and SES starts blinking....... I back out of it a bit to force shift to 3rd the speed starts to slide from 55 mph and after about 5-7 seconds in 3rd the EGT hits 1200 and SES comes on full and the the 'puter starts removing fuel down comes the EGT and the speed and shifts back in second. I limp on home change back to the Heath chip and check the codes and clear them. Next day I give the full report to Bill Heath. He tells me you need MORE BOOST crank it to 13-14 PSI at 24-2500 RPM at WOT. So I do it and go get a load of water. I go down and pull that same hill again this time she again gets right up to 55 mph I force the shift to 3rd and up to 60mph and still pulling and EGT running at 1200-1250. I back off to maintain 60 mph (15 mph over the limit) and she purs up the rest of the hill with temps falling.
This chip holds fuel right up to redline RPM and I have had no codes since I have added it. Nice firm shifts at good points and the truck pulls right up to 100+ mph (empty)right nice and no more speed limiter http://forum.thedieselpage.com/ubb/cool.gif . Old chip 97mph and NO MORE. I had to swap back to the OEM to really get the point. Oh yeah Bill sent me a replacement just to be sure it was as it was suppose to be, I told him not to bother but he insisted. (shipped him the first one back) Also the boost change just from 11psi to 13-14 psi made a about 150 degrees in EGT. I think I'm getting real good pull for a high mileage 3.42 rear ratio 6.5 L56. I want to run against a Cummins so bad! http://forum.thedieselpage.com/ubb/wink.gif
I feel that the $320 Bill wants for the Max E Tork and TurboMaster is a good value and now I wish I would have done it couple of years sooner!

I hope somneone finds this of some use or help.



This report was for the orginal MaxiTork and I now have the version 2.0 and it runs better than the first. I took a 0-60 time but with a bit of a twist I had hooked up a tandem axel trailer with 1050 gallon water tank full of water. time 19.1 seconds not too bad with a 3:42 rear end and a high mileage half wore out work truck.


So I disagree with Texas Diesel Guy on this I think a "chip" for a '94 & 95 is a good value for getting power, gauge it and plug

0-60 in 19.1, even with that load...well if your happy I guess.

0-60 in 19.1, even with that load...well if your happy I guess.


1050 gallons of water weighs 8400 Lbs and I am guessing that trailer probably weighs at least 4000 Lbs.


Go get a 12,000 Lb trailer and do a 0-60 with your blazer and report back. I would be really surprised if you can do it any faster.

I'm always up for a challenge ;)


Now, just to find a 12,000# trailer....


On a side note, I just discovered that a local speedway offers 'Test & Tune' days open to all motorists, I'll get some undeniable results there.Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

I did a 0-60 again and did less than 14. this was with 8-9psi. If I get a change of psi after I switch exhaust/turbine housings I will run it again.

I did a 0-60 again and did less than 14. this was with 8-9psi. If I get a change of psi after I switch exhaust/turbine housings I will run it again.


If I were you, I would run the vacuum directly to the wastegate from the pump and see how much boost you get. If you are only making that much boost, you don't need a wastegate.

I will try that. The vacuum pump was only reading 21.5" at idle. It's worth a run to see what it'll make bypassing the solenoid, but I was thinking it would be code 78 the whole time.

You won't get a code 78 unless the boost signal from the map is too high or too low for a certain amount of time. I think it is at least 15 seconds.


The wastegate solenoid is just a valve and won't know the difference.

I've tried it, and just as whatnot says, as long as you back out every few seconds you won't get kicked into limp mode, but if you try to maintain highway speed or do a WOT run to 60 it will kick you out, but you will see boost levels 15+, and it gets there really quick, thats as high as my gauge goes.

Yes, turbo working like from the factory, you will easily get 15+ psi. I just suggested that QM do it because his can't even get 10 PSI with resistors and should me able to get close to 20 PSI.


With all the stuff he did to the turbo, maybe it just flows that much more and doesn't have enough back pressure to build more boost. If that is the case, it would be interesting to compare EGT under similar boost levels with a other turbo he is going to swap in.

I did a 0-60 again and did less than 14. this was with 8-9psi. If I get a change of psi after I switch exhaust/turbine housings I will run it again.


LOL I tried my out my truck 0-60 today. about 17 seconds I guess my 5 speed shifting really slowing me down. Just put 1500.00 rebuilding that tranny and still babying it. oh well When I want to go fast I drive my old cop car anyway. LOL

I timed myself while driving today, but with the replacement turbo putting out between 15-10 psi I did a 13 and a just before 13.


my method is to start on the quarters (powerbraking at 1500 rpm) and look at the second hand as I hit 60 mph, no passenger to do it for me.

LOL Hey QM that ain't fair I can't power brake mine. LOL


sounds like you got it coming together. I got my 3" downpipe and crossover on today. Wow a third hand sure would have helped out but i got it done. complete 3" coming later this week no muf, no cat. can't wait

No, but you can feather the clutch. I'll have my 93 up and going soon (with the pump turned up a 1/2 turn) and I'll guage it too, then I'll see what I can make it do boost and 0-60 wise.

No, but you can feather the clutch. I'll have my 93 up and going soon (with the pump turned up a 1/2 turn) and I'll guage it too, then I'll see what I can make it do boost and 0-60 wise.


LOL Yea I could but I just put out alot of cash fixing that clutch,tranny,transfer case combo. Guess I just keep wondering what it will do. After the new downpipe installed there was no noticeable driving difference, boost doesn't drop off as far but doesn't peck as high either until I step on it. New Exhaust coming soon.

I've had my 5spd out twice. The first time for bearings and a centerforce stage III clutch. The second time for bearings again! and now I have to replace or mend the input shaft because it's scored and eating throwout bearings. Third times the charm.


I did it myself and it's a greasy mess of a job.Edited by: quantum mechanic

Yeappers,


My throw out bearing and front bearing retainer that it rides on was causing the clutch M/C to split in half when the throw out bearing would bind in the retainer. Look that over real good, no grooves allowed. then the input bearing in transfer case went bad causing all the tranny fluid to transfer to the transfer case and burnt up the tranny. To think this all started cause it wouldn't shift when warm, like no clutch operation. $ 2700.00 dollar later runs like a new one.


Edited by: bowtie

With NO boost about 18


With boost about 14 or so which is still weak as hell for what this truck used to do it in....new solenoid and actuator should correct that and bring it back down. Truck has a towing setup and is geared stupid low - rpm limited (3300rpm in 4th) to 83mph.


Pulled the snorkel but still drawing from the fender, now just waiting on the crossover, 3" downpipe and 3.5" duramaxx exhuast w/o muff or cat, new solenoid, and actuator....


Hope there's some turbo whine in the trucks future with those mods...





btw - did TDG ever go to the open house for the dyno run? This discussion SOOO reminds me of sound system competition, "yo my system hits 160dB easy!" Then you explain to him that there would be snowballs in hell first, then he finds a meter and is awaken to the sweet smell of reality....lol Im not applying that here just saying what it reminds me of. ;)Edited by: Bumpin' Yota

Yota, What size tires you running? With 4.10 gears you should top out around 100mph in 4th.

No I never made it to the dyno run, can't get any time away from work, way too busy lately building those stinking DS4's ;)

Yota, What size tires you running? With 4.10 gears you should top out around 100mph in 4th.


225/75r16 Automatic tranny. I always thought it was a 4.10 but never double checked.... I did it again yesterday, truck top ends out at 83mph. :(Edited by: Bumpin' Yota

if your truck isnt a dually then 245/75/16's are the correct tire size arent they?

it's a dually...lol


How do i determine gear ratio and tranny codes, etc...


Im begining to wonder if either the truck has never been able to shift into "OD" or if the gear ratio is lower than a 4.10...aaaah found the PRO codes in FAQ....lolEdited by: Bumpin' Yota

0-60 in 7.7 guess I'll hook up the turbo now and see what I get. &n bsp; &n bsp; HA !HA!

Just checked my pro codes.


L65 engine


4.10w/limited slip


MT1 -- TRANSMISSION, AUTO 4 SPD, HMD, THM R2 (4L80-E)


with the stock 225/75r16 size that came with the truck....


Anyone else have this problem?

I have the same gears but run 33x12.5x16.5's and it seems to be a good size. My dad run's 285x75x16's on his same gears.

I have the same gears but run 33x12.5x16.5's and it seems to be a good size. My dad run's 285x75x16's on his same gears.


But did yours top end out at 83mph with stock tires? I was thinking that perhaps the O/D wasn't working, but then when i was driving about today, I put the shifter into "D" instead of "OD" and the rpm's went up sharply. I think it would be RPM limited to about 65 mph if I were to keep it in "D" only....


Would/could the dealership we bought it from back in '94 have regeared it to something crazy low?

I have the same gears but run 33x12.5x16.5's and it seems to be a good size. My dad run's 285x75x16's on his same gears.


But did yours top end out at 83mph with stock tires? I was thinking that perhaps the O/D wasn't working, but then when i was driving about today, I put the shifter into "D" instead of "OD" and the rpm's went up sharply. I think it would be RPM limited to about 65 mph if I were to keep it in "D" only....


Would/could the dealership we bought it from back in '94 have regeared it to something crazy low?





225/75 tires are way too small.


I would get at least 235/85 or 255/85 if they will fit. With 255's you should be able to get over 100 mph.

Yota,


I would guess that if you checked for codes you'd find one for the TCC not engageing.


Do you know how to jump the ALDL pins a to b?

the only code i ever get is a code 29, then if i can clear that one I only get a code 12....


225/75r16s are what came with the truck from the factory, also I don't really want to change sizes and have my speedo waaaaay off....lol

the only code i ever get is a code 29, then if i can clear that one I only get a code 12....


225/75r16s are what came with the truck from the factory, also I don't really want to change sizes and have my speedo waaaaay off....lol





On my truck it redlines in 3rd gear around 70 ish. So with smaller tires yours should be at redline in 3rd around 63 or so. Next time your driving it do a full throttle run from a stop and count the shifts and note the speed they happen at. You should also feel the converter lock in 3rd full throttle as well.

Yota,


I would guess that if you checked for codes you'd find one for the TCC not engageing.


Do you know how to jump the ALDL pins a to b?





I assume all I do is short out A to B with a piece of wire, then put the key in the ignition and turn it on to where the glow plugs light. Once the glow plugs shut off, the SES light is supposed to flash out codes.... Is that correct?


Oddly enough I only get 1 code at a time ever, I thought it was supposed to flash out code 12 three times then go on to significant codes each flashed 3 times, then finish on another code...

the only code i ever get is a code 29, then if i can clear that one I only get a code 12....


225/75r16s are what came with the truck from the factory, also I don't really want to change sizes and have my speedo waaaaay off....lol





You can fix the speedometer for larger tires.


My brother has a '95 with 4.10 gears and a 5 speed. When he got it, it still had 245 tires on it and he usually didn't use any gears under 3rd. He now has 255/85 tires on it and uses first sometimes. (still hasn't fixed the speedo yet though) 245/75 tires are about 30" tall and 255/85 are about 33" tall.


Is there any chance you have the wrong alternator pulley and the tach is wrong?

OK this thread is getting boring...thought it was a 0-60 thing.


Any of you elektronik guys under 12 sec 0-60??http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gifhttp://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gifhttp://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

Yup Heath reflash was final piece in the puzzle to breaking that barrier, now I got to figure a way to keep from smokin the tires I lose time there.


That said I don't understand emphasis on 0-60 though; when I 1st bought my truck thought that was an important milestone have since learned it isn't; more important is will it haul the trailer I have hooked to it, yes it will.


This thread had me check it for 1st time in 2 years went from 15sec stock to around 10-12 sec. now, sort of a subjective time check as hard to work the watch and throttle all at same time, and how much spin the tires make before grabbing traction.


My 90 Gasser 4.3 GMC would be the one I'd trick out for speed if I were so inclined, Diesels are work trucks IMO, yes you can build them for racing but longevity suffers. One guy I met at a dyno day with his Cummins making gobs of power & torque, drags it semi-pro & hobby says engine lasts about a year.

225/75r16s are what came with the truck from the factory, also I don't really want to change sizes and have my speedo waaaaay off....lol





Is that what the door sticker says for tires from factory, You got access to a handheld GPS check your mph with it or check time between mile posts on hiway 60 sec marker to marker would be 60 mph, do a couple for good avg, road crews may not hit all at 5280' exactly

225/75r16s are what came with the truck from the factory, also I don't really want to change sizes and have my speedo waaaaay off....lol





Is that what the door sticker says for tires from factory, You got access to a handheld GPS check your mph with it or check time between mile posts on hiway 60 sec marker to marker would be 60 mph, do a couple for good avg, road crews may not hit all at 5280' exactly








Yup that's the tire size listed on the door sill. Good idea checking the speed with the GPS and the mile markers! Ill try that after I get the 'stumbles' out of the engine...lol


btw - doing a brake stand, the truck will turn all 4 rear tires! I was shocked to find that out!! Why oh why doesnt my 3.slow 4runner have that kind of torque? lol