got a 94 1500 p/u 165,000 bawered a scan tool and gave me code 36 injector pulse width high response.. replaced ip @ 120,000 and sender pump for warranty to pay for ip. also hjave had 2 oter pumps at around 40,000 and 85,000. Now im getting lots of black smoke "like a mack truck" when i accelerate really hard or with rv on and theres low power too. took the egr off and the upper air intake off and upper intake was totally plugged on one side.. any suggestions????

Black smoke usually indicates lack of boost from vacuuum/wg solenoid system.
EGR emissions only complicate the issue, plugged egr/egrport can make it smoke too.

I cleaned egr and upper intake one side was completly clogged, replaced w/g solenoid and still is the samehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif ?/???

Unfortunately, all your Vacuum/boost/EGR problems are completely unrelated to your code 36, which usually means fuel solenoid in the pump is worn and you need a new IP. Try lubricity additive and it may go away for a while.


But for your boost problems...do you have vacuum from the pump and at wastegate? is wastegate hung open? Clean air filter? EGR/solenoid hung open? MAP sensor plugged in good?Edited by: Texas Diesel Guy

ams oil air filter cleaned 2 wks ago new fuel filter. doesn't seem like much vac at wastegat but if you rev it up and down you can see that the w/g arm has moved.. Edited by: scottysanderson7

The wastegate arm shouldnt move from the fully closed position until you have about 10lbs of boost...sounds like either a leaking vacuum line or a weak vacuum pump.

got a vac tester got 25+ lbs off pump, no lbs at w/g act. new w/g solenoid still no lbs checked all lines for leaks none.. what next..??

the lines aren't on backwards on the switch are they? orange supply from pump at the front, wastegate towards the firewall right? Is the Map sensor plugged up with gunk? unplugged? faulty? Nearly all of those clips on the plug-in to the MAP sensor are broken, I highly reccomend ziptying it to the sensor to ensure good connection.

doubled checked to see if lines are on backwords nope. checed map not plugged or unplugged .. if I do switch the lines around on w/g solenoid i get aroud 15lbs of vac.. tested w/g solenoid wire with test light and that seems fine could i have possibly got a bad w/g solenoid ??

is there a way i could bypass the wastegate at the turbo so its open all the time??

open or closed all the time??? open you would definitely get lots of black smoke, to close it, just tee the vacuum line from the wastegate into the supply line from the vacuum pump.

did the bypass of the wastegate solenoid and i can hear the turbo again.. still under hard accelaration i still get alot of very black smoke. by doing the bypass can i damage the turbo at all?? now that i got power back is there a chance that i got a bad w/g solenoid from the dealer? is their a way i can check it?

is the black smoke there all the time, as long as the engine is under load? or does it start off really black and go away seconds later?


Could the diaphram in the wastegate actuator be leaking on yours? Pull the vacuum line off, plug the inlet on the actuator with your finger and push/pull the wastegate arm to see if you can hear air leaking by.

very heavy smoke only on hard acceleration.. goes away after you let your foot off. checked wastegate actuator and there are no leaks..

Looks like a leak still in your wastegate line. You should have 18" of vacuum at your actuator. Do you have that wire loom stuff over the vac line to the actuator? It can rub a hole right through the line. It may be that the 'noid you have is not allowing enough vacuum because of it's port size is reducing amount of vacuum available to the actuator. What I mean is, that there may be a leak in the line still somewhere, and it is only being amplified by the restriction of the 'noid. Know what I mean?


Do you have a cat on this rig? Might it be plugged up? Just wondering.

25" vacuum at pump


25" vacuum at wg solenoid


15" vacuum from wg solenoid


15" vacuum at wg actuator


Pump vacuum goes to solenoid center port


Wg actuator line goes to rear side port.


Solenoid and electrical connector should have matching colors, possibly lite green.


No vacuum on wg actuator, arm should travel ~30deg, 'gate should make definite clunk when quickly closed.


EGR 'tower' inside intake plenum has aluminum 'O' gasket - if leaking, or missing, gives black smoke, reduced power.


Requires replacement each time upper plenum is removed. Edited by: gmctd

wastegate solonoid are green. 25" off pump 25" at wastegate solenoid no " at wastegate actuator bypassed w/g solenoid and i have 15 to 20" new w/g solenoid. now that it is bypassed i have plenty of power back and just some blueish smok under hard acceration. if i keep it bypassed will it hurt the turbo? mapp doesn't seem to be plugged. replaced gaskets when upper intake was taken off and cleaned.

there is a chance of overspooling the turbo, which can be quite destructive, but more than likely your computer will kick you into limp mode to protect the turbo and the motor upon seeing high boost pressure for prolonged periods of time.


are you saying you've had 2 different switches on your truck and neither one of them delivers any vacuum to the wastegate? If thats so then you must have an electrical problem somewhere.

Correct - PCM will pull Boost, then fuel after ~20secs overboost, with SES and DTC-78, and no power.


Check the harness wiring to the wg solenoid connector - breaks occur there from repeated fuel filter servicing.

should i get any vac at w/g actuator at idle?

Yes!

Those figures are at idle condition.

I have a Bill Heath Waste Gate actuator and don't worry about vacuum anymore. Adjust it to what you want and drive it like you stole it!





Charlie P.

where do you get these?

Computer has better control of boost/wg throughout all driving conditions than a mechanical spring. Have you checked the wg connector for 12v? infinite ground? wg solenoid should allow 15" vac at idle, none with connector unplugged.


DTC036 can be from air in the fuel line from a slight hose/connection leak.Edited by: quantum mechanic

Dtc 35 - response time short - can result from bubbles in the line


DTC 36 - response time long - is usually from dragging solenoid, but can be loose connection, low 12v power, or bad grounds

thats right, air will create less resistance for the armature to close, drag from wear or poor fuel quality will cause it to be too long, but its likely with that many miles its just worn and now the poppet valve stroke is just too long for the solenoid to close in time.

Change the injection pump and your problems will be solved.

I'm in the same pickle. The pump seems underpowered no matter where I set timing or advance it seems retarded. code 36 every startup. A fresh pump should set it straight.

Recheck connections at the FS coil - the red and black wires - low volts can cause DTC36.


Black wire is that black ground on the top of the inj pump, last screw on driver-side rear - that is the ground for the FSD\PMD, so bad ground, slow solenoid action.


Also use TDG's method of checking stepper operation, by peering thru the maze and observing position and motion - could be installation caused some interference - hose, wiring harness, etc, - and it is forced retarded.


Stepper motor only sets pace for regulated housing pressure to move the advance piston, so wouldn't take much to foul the stepper actuator.


Or, could have been bent in the transition - be worth a check, fer sure!


Don't know history pre-four years ago, but from April '00 to present -40kmi - the pump had fuel from hi-volume truck-stops only, with Power Diesel Service cetane and lubricity improver each tank.


Only problem was FSD\PMD failure Summer of ought one - that modified replacement is now on the inj pump I just installed.Edited by: gmctd

When I switched pumps I broke the ground terminal connection to the FS. I put on a new terminal connector, sodered it. I was pretty sure I tightend it well but I might pull the lower intake and look again.

Make sure the main studs are not loose in the coil housing- they are the circuit path to the coil windings.

When I took the old one off I broke the connector because the negative stud was loose. The donated pump seemed to have the studs tight but I will make sure.