Someone, not long ago listed a website for a company that made and sold replacement GM connectors. Does this ring a bell for anyone out there. I have searched and have not found any thing. Any help?

MDHorban posted that in his PMD resistors question.
The connectors are delphi.

Edited by: quantum mechanic

thanks

Here yah go!


Part numbers 15336022 and 15476159 http://www.delphi.com/products/connect/


They are of the GT series.


Actually this link will be easier


http://www.delphisecure2.com/site/home/HomeMain.asp


Or one of their distributors: http://www.powerandsignal.com/


The first part number they say is a drawing number when you call(pain) but it list it as the actual part in their search.

Here yah go!


Part numbers 15336022 and 15476159 http://www.delphi.com/products/connect/


They are of the GT series.


Actually this link will be easier


http://www.delphisecure2.com/site/home/HomeMain.asp


Or one of their distributors: http://www.powerandsignal.com/


The first part number they say is a drawing number when you call(pain) but it list it as the actual part in their search. HAs anyone found a place to buy these like locally or thur a parts store maybe. These website have lots of info but mention nothing bout price or selling them. Any help would be welcomed, I am looking for at least one set but might take more if needed too

The connector you would be interested in - on the module - is part of the module housing, which is available in quantitys only.


10,000 pieces, if you can also guarantee 10,000 per year usage, and you get the molded housing with integral connector.


Hence, the 'unavailable' status.


10,000 people before you have done the same search and 'find'......


Seems like everyone 'knows' how to make a two-dollar FSD replacmenthttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


BETA Maskin has a fully field-tested replacement FSD available, but for the module connector, and has been searching for some three years for an economical substitute.


The connector on the harness Kennedy sells is a custom piece, probably not available for g.p. use.


Have not seen Bill Heath's harness, yet.


So - (my solution) find an old module, surgically remove the connector from the case, and you're on your way.


Or, cut-n-splice.


Btw - your research efforts are appreciated.........Edited by: gmctd

Cut and splice your original connector with 1 1/2- 2" lead to work with. An aftermarket wiring loom will make it dissapear.

i spliced mine the first time but i want to make it longer like long enough to get either into the cab or out front. should you use a heavier gauge wire to make it that long and if so what gauge? also what if you tapered the fins on your heatsink from the center out to allow it to be clamped to the a/c drier after all it is aluminum and on the hottest days it would be extreemly cold from running the a/c the only drawback i can see with this is it would be right overtop of the turbo- not a good place for heat. okay feedback......GO!

Cut and splice your original connector with 1 1/2- 2" lead to work with. An aftermarket wiring loom will make it dissapear.


yes sir I understand that I can do it like that. I was just trying to avoid cutting and spicing my harness. I guess my aircraft background causes this, plus I would like to be able to have this all ready to go (plug n play sort of). BUt if I run out of opitions I guess that I'll just cut and spice.

~$90 from kennedy or heath and you can plug it in. Cut and splice is expedient and economical but requires patience and skill to get all 6 wire sodered at both ends and sealed with shrink tubes.Edited by: quantum mechanic

~$90 from kennedy or heath and you can plug it in. Cut and splice is expedient and economical.


LOL


Yeappers You are right I was trying to be both expedient and economical without the cutting and spicing part. I guess I give up, uncle, raise the white flag. Anyway What gauge wire shoud one use when doing this mod ?Edited by: bowtie

stock wire is 20 or 22 awg. anything ~18awg won't increase resistance.