http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=212199260&dealer_id=58074785&car_year=1987&search_type=both&num_records=25&keywordsfyc=&make=CHEV&model=BLAZER&transmission=&make3=TOYOTA&distance=200&address=84074&make2=GMC&advanced=&certified=&default_sort=priceDESC&model3=PICKUP&model2=15SIPU4WD&max_mileage=&max_price=4000&sort_type=priceDESC&min_price=0&first_record=26&body_code=0&end_year=2007&color=&keywordsrep=&start_year=1981&drive=&color3=&color2=&pager.offset=25&engine=&style_flag=1&doors=&fuel=&cardist=49

over christmas i'll be in utah and want to eliminate some of my debt so i'm looking to trade in my suburban and payoff the next vehicle. yall are the diesel experts, what should i look out for on this truck? any specific rust areas to watch? mechanical problems? has 4 speed auto (700r4) and a 6.2L diesel (DIESEL!!!!) just want to know everything i need to look out for when i go see this truck.

I dont know none of the info seems to look right. "Showroom condition!" dosnt look like it to me. "Very clean interior" dosnt look to clean to me. "Tinted Glass" looks like only one window is tented. "1987 Chevrolet Blazer V10 4x4" I know for a fact it dosnt have a V10. looks like it may have a tad bit of rust below the door. but it looks perty good. drive it make sure it runs good starts good and everything. if it runs good and the truck its beat like cra% then its good to go, try to offer a but less mabey 1200 but i would prob pay 1400. if u like it its worth alot.

well the V is in the vin and i believe it means blazer body style or somting, much like the c and k trucks. not a motor style.

rust spots, well I see one behind the passenger door :) most likely around the doors, the floor, and the battery treys. or at least thoes are the places I see the most problem rust. the interrior does not appear to be in horrible shape, although you can not tell much from the low quality image. im sure a good vacuuming, and maybe shampooing may be in order. the dash pad will probably be cracked, and the seats may be worn those are the most common interior issues.

the tinted windows look to be the ones in the top.
as for everything else i would see what work has been done to the truck, any rebuilds, who did them, miles, those are things to consider.

I know for a fact it dosnt have a V10. .

My 87 3/4 ton 4WD diesel Suburban is listed as a V20 istead of the older code of K20. My 88 1/2 ton 4WD diesel Blazer is listed as a V10 instead of the older code of K10.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=212199260&dealer_id=58074785&car_year=1987&search_type=both&num_records=25&keywordsfyc=&make=CHEV&model=BLAZER&transmission=&make3=TOYOTA&distance=200&address=84074&make2=GMC&advanced=&certified=&default_sort=priceDESC&model3=PICKUP&model2=15SIPU4WD&max_mileage=&max_price=4000&sort_type=priceDESC&min_price=0&first_record=26&body_code=0&end_year=2007&color=&keywordsrep=&start_year=1981&drive=&color3=&color2=&pager.offset=25&engine=&style_flag=1&doors=&fuel=&cardist=49

over christmas i'll be in utah and want to eliminate some of my debt so i'm looking to trade in my suburban and payoff the next vehicle. yall are the diesel experts, what should i look out for on this truck? any specific rust areas to watch? mechanical problems? has 4 speed auto (700r4) and a 6.2L diesel (DIESEL!!!!) just want to know everything i need to look out for when i go see this truck.

You cant start by loking at the engine blowby , and smell the trany oil .burn smell forget it. The week point on the truck is the th700 , a road test to chech the shifting points and the OD
I know for the price , but try not to jump in a $$$$$ trap.

Ed
PS: compression test it if you can .;)

5 registred info at carfax.

alright then heres the list so far:
1. tranny fluid, if burnt forget it
2. compression test (what should it be?)
3. rear axle (10 bolt)
4. starter bracket, is it basicly just another mount on the starter?
5. oil in coolant to see if head gaskets are gone
6. rust
7. rear window motor
8. driveshaft u joints
9. interior damage. not too worried about the carpet because i'll be offroading alot, but would like the seats/dash to be reasonable
10. oil cooler lines, what are the signs of them being worn?

anything else in particular? not afraid to get my hands dirty lol.

Worn oil cooler lines will have some seepage. Mine are at that stage now. They aren't any indication that the motor is bad though. Actually if you see some seepage at least you know the oil cooler is probably working.

you can also pop the top on the radiator and watch for bubbles.
the starter bracket is on the front of the starter (the front side of the truck, not the bellhousing side) its a small L shaped bracket.

i will add one more thing: since the seller is lying by calling it "showroom condition" tell him $1000 or no deal - and that's if it passes all the other tests. It is never a good idea to buy a car from someone who lies...and i am speaking from experience.
Paul

the "aftermarket" factory rally wheels are a nice touch.

I suspect the Blazers are in much better shape in your area? I see some rust in the photo, but I can't tell how the floors, tailgate area, etc. are. That price would be high in my area in New York State. I just bought an 88 diesel a few days ago for $400 - 150K miles, runs good, 700R4 trans, brand new 32 X 15" tires, alloy wheels, etc. It needs a new half-floor put in on the drivers side under the seat. All the new sheet-metal came with the deal. Here's a few photos. There's also a 91 diesel Blazer for sale in my area for $800 - supposed to have a rebuilt engine but the trans is slipping. It's on Ebay right now.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/PDC_0027.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/PDC_0026.jpg

blazers are in better shape in my area (no diesels though), and the price is usually about 3k for one with worn out interior. highest i've seen one sell for is 6200, had a new paint job, 4" lift, and 35" bfg at tires, stock drivetrain. reasons i'm looking for one up in utah are:
1. i'll be up there during christmas
2. cheaper than one in similar shape down here in the permian basin.

was looking around yesturday and found an 87 sububan in rough shape. large dents everywhere, interior basicly shredded (looks like somebody took a chainsaw to the 2nd row of seats), dash sitting in drivers seat, very rough. rebuilt tranny about 5k miles ago, unknown mileage (odometer says about 70k, probably 170k), guy wants 1300, wont budge. found a blazer down here, 2400 cash price (but wont take my suburban on trade, reducing inventory) in good shape, gasser 85 model.

when i get to utah i'll take pics of the blazer and the other vehicles i'm looking at and post them up, to see what yall think of the vehicles, repairs they would need, how hard repairs are (and cost ideas).

keep the comments coming, i'd like to know as much as possible to look out for on this blazer. any other specific rust places? mechanical problems?

That looks like a pretty nice Blazer... If it is good running and has a good tranny it is a good deal if you can get it for like $1200.

You are looking in the right place for rust free vehicles, although it is hard to tell in the picture whether that is a rust spot by the door or a stain of some sort.

The description isn't the most accurate... But I have definitely seen worse. There was a truck for sale a while back that was advertised as an all original, untouched, low mileage '78 (I think) with the original 6.2... Wait, a '78 with a 6.2?!! A closer look at a the pics revealed the Oldsmodiesel under the hood... And it sure looked like a repaint to me...

You've really got to go look at it to tell for sure if it is any good... Those pics are pretty bad.

One note on checking out the transmission... When you check the fluid look for clean fluid, but be wary of anything that has obvious new fluid. A lot of times when the tranny is on its way out and burns the fluid up people will try changing the fluid. That will cover up the burnt smell and the brown color of the burnt fluid. A test drive is definitely in order, and make sure you get the tranny good and hot.

Also, make sure that the kickdown function still works... If it doesn't the TV cable is broken... Not a big deal except that if someone has been driving it that way they may have messed up the tranny.

You should also check the cooling system for leaks... Replacing parts in the cooling system gets expensive fast...

Hope this helps! :)

in 87 they changed the body designation to R for 2wd and V for 4wd. the c/k they kept with the new bodystyle.

alright well saw the blazer today. rust spots at the back of the doors is all the way through, battery trays rusted, back corner of left rear fender well is rusted, and minor surface rust in a few other spots. tailgate has a dent but window still goes all the way up/down (manual crank on the rear window).

drivers door has a bad window track
pass door has bad window motor
oil cooler lines are seeping
had about 10 seconds of warm up time for the glow plugs then it cranked right up, about 40 degrees outside.
tranny fluid was dark, liked to downshift, but shifted firmer than my 94 suburbans tranny shifts.

i only got it up to 50 mph tonight and it handled fine, both front tires are worn on the outside edge of the tread. they're asking 1499 for it, but i think i can get them down to 11-1200, maybe lower. i'll probably be towing my moms jeep wrangler down to midland with me (1200 mile trip) and obviouslly i need something that will be reliable and easy to maintain, tranny has me worried though with that long of a trip (its fluid was right at the bottom of the ok range with the truck at idle).

alright well saw the blazer today. rust spots at the back of the doors is all the way through, battery trays rusted, back corner of left rear fender well is rusted, and minor surface rust in a few other spots. tailgate has a dent but window still goes all the way up/down (manual crank on the rear window).

drivers door has a bad window track
pass door has bad window motor
oil cooler lines are seeping
had about 10 seconds of warm up time for the glow plugs then it cranked right up, about 40 degrees outside.
tranny fluid was dark, liked to downshift, but shifted firmer than my 94 suburbans tranny shifts.

i only got it up to 50 mph tonight and it handled fine, both front tires are worn on the outside edge of the tread. they're asking 1499 for it, but i think i can get them down to 11-1200, maybe lower. i'll probably be towing my moms jeep wrangler down to midland with me (1200 mile trip) and obviouslly i need something that will be reliable and easy to maintain, tranny has me worried though with that long of a trip (its fluid was right at the bottom of the ok range with the truck at idle).


I think I might be inclined to pass on that one.

Sounds like a decent old truck, but the tranny sounds like trouble at best.

If it weren't for the cloud of doom hovering over the transmission it sounds like it would be a good deal (at $1200, of course, not $1500)... Of course, if you were planning on putting in a manual anyway it may be just the deal for you...

i am spoiled i they use salt in utah in alot of areas should of drove up to boise i don't think it is a salt area there. to bad could have made it to nw lots of no or low rust rigs here. considering time to fix rusted floors and quarter let alone what has not rusted all the way thru portland or california is a cheap flight. do a search on craigslist.org.

I don't remember them using salt in Utah when I was there... Of course if the truck came from anywhere near the Great Salt Lake or the salt flats that would explain it...

the only reason i ssay so is that i saw a unimog for sale in utah that had been a salt spreader and a while back i looked at a rust bucked of a suburban that carfax said lived in utah most all of its life before coming to oregon. like i said we out here are just spoiled . and as far as knowing about the road salt might be issolated cities.

they're asking 1499 for it, but i think i can get them down to 11-1200, maybe lower.

That price would be too high in my area - and we do have a few that don't see much salt or rust. I'm in the "rust belt" of central New York State, but we get a lot of "down-staters" from the Long Island area that bring vehicles up here and leave them at their summer homes or hunting camps. Last month I bought a rust-free 1978 K5 Blazer with four-speed manual, 305 gas engine, no rust, and 70K orig. miles for $450. Has bad paint, dry-rotted tires, but runs great. Came from Long Island where it rarely snows. Right now, there's a summer home down the road that's up for sale. They just put out front an 86 K5 with 6.2 diesel, 700R4 trans, tow-hitch, AC, PW, PL, 4WD with 3.42 axles, auto-hubs, etc. Has new-looking custom wheels and 32" 12.50 tires. No dry rot - maybe because it's been stored indoors? It too came from Long Island and has no rust through - floors, quarters, tailgate, etc. all fine. Original owner and swears it only has 85K miles on it. It's been in inside storage for 10 years. They put batteries into it - it turns over but won't start. They're asking $400 for it. I might go there tonight and offer $300 and see if they take it,

That price would be too high in my area - and we do have a few that don't see much salt or rust. I'm in the "rust belt" of central New York State, but we get a lot of "down-staters" from the Long Island area that bring vehicles up here and leave them at their summer homes or hunting camps. Last month I bought a rust-free 1978 K5 Blazer with four-speed manual, 305 gas engine, no rust, and 70K orig. miles for $450. Has bad paint, dry-rotted tires, but runs great. Came from Long Island where it rarely snows. Right now, there's a summer home down the road that's up for sale. They just put out front an 86 K5 with 6.2 diesel, 700R4 trans, tow-hitch, AC, PW, PL, 4WD with 3.42 axles, auto-hubs, etc. Has new-looking custom wheels and 32" 12.50 tires. No dry rot - maybe because it's been stored indoors? It too came from Long Island and has no rust through - floors, quarters, tailgate, etc. all fine. Original owner and swears it only has 85K miles on it. It's been in inside storage for 10 years. They put batteries into it - it turns over but won't start. They're asking $400 for it. I might go there tonight and offer $300 and see if they take it,
your very lucky on the price of trucks in your area, either of these 2 blazers that you just mentioned would go for about 2000-3500 in west texas, no bull.

so the main concern is the tranny, just my luck lol. i would be swapping a manual tranny in, but i dont have the time until i get back to texas and i'll be towing my moms jeep down there, guess this blazer is out of the running then.

i would be swapping a manual tranny in, but i dont have the time until i get back to texas and i'll be towing my moms jeep down there, guess this blazer is out of the running then

Actually, it would probably be good enough to do that... There is a small chance of a tranny failure, but if you are just going to cruise on the highway locked in drive (not overdrive, and not shifting up and down all the time) it would probably make the trip... If it is shifting firm (not slipping) it should be all right (although there is always a small chance of failure that even exists with a freshly built tranny).

The thing to be concerned about is the fact that the tranny is probably approaching the end of its life. It isn't there yet, but it is getting close... It doesn't matter if you are going to take it out anyway.

It's really up to you though... If you don't feel comfortable with it, don't do it...

wish i'd double checked here this morning and seen your post high sierra lol. i got an 81 gmc regular cab long bed 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup, 350 gaser with an sm465 tranny.

wish i'd double checked here this morning and seen your post high sierra lol. i got an 81 gmc regular cab long bed 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup, 350 gaser with an sm465 tranny.

Nothing wrong with the SM465. They are one tough tranny. Didn't know they were available with the half tonne. Just wish thay had an overdrive. Of course then it'd basically be an NV4500.

wish i'd double checked here this morning and seen your post high sierra lol. i got an 81 gmc regular cab long bed 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup, 350 gaser with an sm465 tranny.


Awesome! You should post some pics of it... Since it is from out west I bet it is pretty nice. And with the SM465 you don't have to worry about the tranny going out... ):h

So are you planning to install a diesel in it, or are you going to leave it gas? The diesel would bolt right in... It's even easier with the manual tranny... :cool:

sorry guys its a 5.0 gasser, not a 350. diesel is in the plans, but 1st i'm gonna put a 4" lift, hopefully do crossover steering, bed liner, front/rear replacements, headache rack, and preferably a 6.5 diesel, but most likely a 6.2 will go in.

i'll try to get some pics tomorro, been snowing most of the day today and went car shopping with my dad for his truck. he got a 95 6.5L 2 door tahoe 4x4 for 5995, lucky old man.

Sounds like quite a project, but it sounds like you've got a nice truck to start with...

Those 6.5 powered tahoes are pretty rare... Don't see too many of them. They are very cool, though...

Make srue it starts well when cold thsese were hard starting beasts dont either it either

Make srue it starts well when cold thsese were hard starting beasts dont either it either

will do, he's taking it in tomorro to have the fuel filter replaced and have all the fluids changed out, i'll test out the glow plugs tomorro since its supposed to be fairly chilly tomorro.

yes it is alot of planning on my truck (i'll get picks tomorro), but most of it shouldnt take long. front/rear replacements and headache rack will be made by me so shouldnt cost me too much, diesel swap is whats gonna take a long time most likey, unfortunatly.

sorry i didnt get the pics today, truck was runnin fine this morning then this afternoon my pickup refused to start. repaced everything except for the lower parts of the distributor in the ignition system so i gotta check out the pick up coil, vacuum advance, and the ignition module.

my dads yukon starts great, cycled the glow plugs 2 times this morning just in case (about a 2 second cycle on the 2nd cycle) and it fired right up, but has been sufferning from some intermitant stalling, replaced the fuel filter (extremely dirty) and its died a few more times but i dont think they got all the air out of the system when they replaced the filter.

repaced everything except for the lower parts of the distributor in the ignition system so i gotta check out the pick up coil, vacuum advance, and the ignition module.


See? With a diesel you wouldn't have any of those problems... ):h

I take it that it has an electronic HEI setup... The cool thing about those is that you can still fix them without too much trouble. The later model trucks with distributor-less ignition systems and coil-on-plug setups take more thought to fix because they are computer controlled.

my dads yukon starts great, cycled the glow plugs 2 times this morning just in case (about a 2 second cycle on the 2nd cycle) and it fired right up, but has been sufferning from some intermitant stalling, replaced the fuel filter (extremely dirty) and its died a few more times but i dont think they got all the air out of the system when they replaced the filter.


Just so you know... Start the engine immediately after the first glow plug cycle. The plugs do not get as hot on secondary cycles as they do on the initial cycle. Waiting for secondary cycles can actually make it harder to start the truck rather than easier.

Sounds like maybe he's got an air leak... But then again that is the (partially) electronically controlled 6.5 and there are probably a bunch of other things that can cause that problem...

See? With a diesel you wouldn't have any of those problems... ):h

I take it that it has an electronic HEI setup... The cool thing about those is that you can still fix them without too much trouble. The later model trucks with distributor-less ignition systems and coil-on-plug setups take more thought to fix because they are computer controlled.



your right it has an hei setup, was running outta time and took it to a shop, found out the distributor was just worn out (and the wrong one, out of an 85 350 and i have an 81 305), ordered a new one but it didnt get in until too late so i drove my mom's jeep back to texas since its going to my sister anyways. i'll be meeting my parents in albaquerque in a week or 2 to give them my sisters old crv so they can sell it for cash and pick up my truck.
i plan to put a diesel in it, simpler, more power, and fewer things to go wrong. i'll either put a 6.2 or 6.5 in (cummins 4bt if i can find one for cheap but that is highly doubtful). i'm looking to have 400 ft/lbs of torque total, little under that would be okay. so a 6.2 with a free flowing exhaust and a turbo upgrade gets to where, about 370ish? but excellent fuel economy as well.

i plan to put a diesel in it, simpler, more power, and fewer things to go wrong. i'll either put a 6.2 or 6.5 in (cummins 4bt if i can find one for .

There are just as many things to go wrong with a diesel - and with the diesel - there are less people around equipped or trained to work work on those "things." Take a gas engine with a carburetor, and HEI distributor - most experienced mechanics can pull either apart - and replace small parts and get going again - via a carb kit, distrib. control unit, cap, rotor, etc. Same goes with changing and/or gapping and cleaning spark plugs.
Now, take a diesel. Injection pump has a lot of critical parts but they are out of sight and inside a self-contained unit. Service info for Stanadyne pumps is not made available to the general public by Stanadyne. The vast majority of mechanics that I know - know very little about the insides of the injection pump and "repair" usually involves removal and replacement. Fuel injectors? How many people have injector testers? Average guy can change or gap a spark plug - but is clueless when comes to testing, adjusting, or replacing nozzles with injectors. Timing? Older gas engine - very simple - use a cheap timing light. If not working properly - still simple - advance parts - vacuum or centrifugal easy to see, buy, and replace.
Diesel? How many "home-shop" or non-diesel repair shops have the proper tools needed for checking diesel timing?
I'm not talking down diesels - that would be silly seeing how I own so many. But they are not simpler and are not cheaper to work on - unless you are equipped to do the work yourself and not just replace components and hope for the best.

i plan to put a diesel in it, simpler, more power, and fewer things to go wrong. i'll either put a 6.2 or 6.5 in (cummins 4bt if i can find one for cheap but that is highly doubtful). i'm looking to have 400 ft/lbs of torque total, little under that would be okay. so a 6.2 with a free flowing exhaust and a turbo upgrade gets to where, about 370ish? but excellent fuel economy as well.


With a turbo on a 6.2/6.5, you should be able to reach your goals pretty easily. :)

In general, diesels are simpler than gas engines.

There are just as many things to go wrong with a diesel - and with the diesel - there are less people around equipped or trained to work work on those "things." Take a gas engine with a carburetor, and HEI distributor - most experienced mechanics can pull either apart - and replace small parts and get going again - via a carb kit, distrib. control unit, cap, rotor, etc. Same goes with changing and/or gapping and cleaning spark plugs.
Now, take a diesel. Injection pump has a lot of critical parts but they are out of sight and inside a self-contained unit. Service info for Stanadyne pumps is not made available to the general public by Stanadyne. The vast majority of mechanics that I know - know very little about the insides of the injection pump and "repair" usually involves removal and replacement. Fuel injectors? How many people have injector testers? Average guy can change or gap a spark plug - but is clueless when comes to testing, adjusting, or replacing nozzles with injectors. Timing? Older gas engine - very simple - use a cheap timing light. If not working properly - still simple - advance parts - vacuum or centrifugal easy to see, buy, and replace.
Diesel? How many "home-shop" or non-diesel repair shops have the proper tools needed for checking diesel timing?
I'm not talking down diesels - that would be silly seeing how I own so many. But they are not simpler and are not cheaper to work on - unless you are equipped to do the work yourself and not just replace components and hope for the best.
well what are the most common problems with a 6.2? i know air leaks are a common problem but i'll be replacing the fuel lines when i swap motors, have my fuel tanks cleaned out as well to get any trace of gasoline and crud accumulation out, so that should take care of air leaks. what are the other common problems?

head gaskets from overheating? will i have to get a diesel radiator or can i stay with my stock unit since theirs no tranny cooler built into it?

glow plugs should be changed how often? every 2-3 years sound about right for a truck that will get about 8-12k miles a year, mostly highway?

injection pump, no way to get around the cost of those but i could purchase a spare unit, maybe a used one that is still working or a rebuilt one. luckily the 6.2's IP isnt a whole lot rebuilt, about 500 bucks. can you rebuild an IP on your own with basic tools and how much $$ will it cost to do so?

glow plug controller, i'll check out how to do a manual switch so it will be more reliable.

brakes and power steering, can i stay with my current brakes and get a vacuum pump from a furd and modify the ac compressor bracket to mount it or would going to hydroboost be simpler/better/cheaper? how reliable is the hydroboost setup? if i do switch will i just need the master cylinder and everything thats on the firewall? is it a direct bolt in swap?

i'll probably get a military crate motor and tear it down, inspect it and rebuild if neccessary (anywhere i can get a manual with the torque specs and clearances on this motor?) unless i can find one locally but old gm diesels arent very common out here.

timing, i have no clue on a diesel but i'll need to learn before i tear a motor apart.

testing injectors, again no idea but are they known to give problems? and what are the problems that can occure from an injector problem, how can you fix it?

anymore problems that pop up on these motors? not trying to be a smarta$$ just listing what i know/dont know and trying to figure out as much as possible before i end up doing this swap. will it be a reliable motor that will give me many miles and the power i want? will repairs be a short downtime? what all is needed for this swap since i have a manual tranny? (i will replace the clutch/throwout bearing of course, anyone in particular i should go with since i'll be offroading alot?) do i need the firewall mounted filter or would multiple spin-on type filters work just as well? what about hooking up the oil pressure guage? voltage meter? what other guages will be a problem? how difficult is it to go to mechanical guages or upgrading to maybe say autometer guages? what extra tools do i need to buy to do the repair work on this? how difficult of a motor is it to work on?

well what are the most common problems with a 6.2? head gaskets from overheating? will i have to get a diesel radiator or can i stay with my stock unit since theirs no tranny cooler built into it?

You need X amount of cooling area for a 6.2. Keep in mind it's 379 cubic inches as compared the 305 you have now. It would behoove you to use a 6.2 radiator - it will greatly simplify things and they are easy to find. I've got over two-dozen stacked up behind my shop.

glow plugs should be changed how often? every 2-3 years sound about right for a truck that will get about 8-12k miles a year, mostly highway?

It depends if you use the correct glow-plugs. The originals usedback in the 80s were unreliable and tended to blow-apart -sometimes ruining an engine. The newest PTC versions don't explode and rarely burn out. You can buy the AC Delco 60GS (actually made by Beru), or buy them direct from Beru, or use the Wellman WAPs, and a few others. They should last years and be very reliable.

can you rebuild an IP on your own with basic tools and how much $$ will it cost to do so?

Yes - you can "rebuild" a pump with basic tools - but you'll have no way of testing it, checking it, adjusting it, etc. A pump shop will mount it on a test-stand to set timing and calibrate or check timing. I worked in a pump shop years ago - but mostly with industrial and forestry equipment - and we rarely used the pump stand. Many times, when a pump gives trouble on a 6.2 diesel - it can be fixed with $50 in parts - but it just about always gets sent out with a subsequent bill of $400 or higher. And, that's if you old core pump is still in pretty good shape. If the shop does not accept your core you might pay $600 or more. Keep in mind that pump-shops don't rebuild a pump in a way an engine gets done. Many old parts are re-used if they check out okay - they are NOT all renewed.

glow plug controller, i'll check out how to do a manual switch so it will be more reliable.

That's fine but it can cause trouble if you lend the vehicle to somebody and have to count on them to do it right. The OEM glow-plug controllers are very reliable. You can add a manual "override" along with an OEM system.

brakes and power steering, can i stay with my current brakes and get a vacuum pump from a furd and modify the ac compressor bracket to mount it or would going to hydroboost be simpler/better/cheaper? how reliable is the hydroboost setup? if i do switch will i just need the master cylinder and everything thats on the firewall? is it a direct bolt in swap?
Master cylinder is the same. Chevy also uses belt-driven vacuum pumps in some 6.2 applications, e.g. vans and some new-style pickups. I have Ford diesel trucks with vacuum brakes and many GM 6.2s with hyroboost - and I prefer the hydroboost. It's been very reliable.

i'll probably get a military crate motor and tear it down, inspect it and rebuild if neccessary (anywhere i can get a manual with the torque specs and clearances on this motor?) unless i can find one locally but old gm diesels arent very common out here.

You can buy military 6.2 manuals on CDs for $10 and they even give you fuell-injection pump repair info - you won't get that with a GM OEM manual. But - why a military engine? It's no better than a civilian, and with a civilian - you'll get the starter and other electrics you need. Most military 6.2s use a combo of 12V and 24V and a few different pulleys. There are many good civilian 6.2s to be bought in the $100 price range.

timing, i have no clue on a diesel but i'll need to learn before i tear a motor apart.

You can set the timing good enough with no special tools. But, you also need a keen eye and ear to detect timing problems - e.g. excess cold start-up smoke, high RPM smoke and break up, excess noise, etc.

testing injectors, again no idea but are they known to give problems? and what are the problems that can occure from an injector problem, how can you fix it?

Yes - absolutely they can give problems. They are made to have a service life of 100K miles but I've seen many driven over 200K miles. To rebuilt them, you simply put a new nozzle on end. It take ten minutes if you have to tools to adjust and $15 in part. Or, you just trade your's in for rebuilt units - probably around $20 each.

anymore problems that pop up on these motors? not trying to be a smarta$$ just listing what i know/dont know and trying to figure out as much as possible before i end up doing this swap. will it be a reliable motor that will give me many miles and the power i want? will repairs be a short downtime? what all is needed for this swap since i have a manual tranny? (i will replace the clutch/throwout bearing of course, anyone in particular i should go with since i'll be offroading alot?) do i need the firewall mounted filter or would multiple spin-on type filters work just as well? what about hooking up the oil pressure guage? voltage meter? what other guages will be a problem? how difficult is it to go to mechanical guages or upgrading to maybe say autometer guages? what extra tools do i need to buy to do the repair work on this? how difficult of a motor is it to work on?

There are many problems unique to 6.2 diesels - but overall they are pretty rugged and reliable. Diesels are in no way, simpler than gas engines though. How many "mechanics" do you know that can fix your injector or injection pump? How many have a pulse adatper or luminosity proble to check your timing advance? How many have the proper tools to do a compression test on your 6.2?

In regard to your truck and RPMs - I don't know what axles you have. But - since you lack overdrive - if your axles are 3.73 and up - you fuel mileage will not be very impressive. The 6.2 runs at peak efficiency at 1800 RPMs. When it gets over 2200 RPMs, fuel mileage drops like a rock.

1. so i need a diesel radiator.
2. so if i use the 60G glow plugs they should last a long time, where can i get those?
3. can i take an IP and have it tested at a pump shop?
4. with the OEM glowplug controller i've heard the 85+ were good but the older ones were unreliable. so i should go with the newer OEM controller then?
5. how much would either the vacuum pump cost or the hydroboost cost assuming i had to buy it seperatly?
6. military engine because its easier to find, i'll check in the san antonio area though for any civilian diesel motors before i do anything, as well as the dallas area.
7. i'm assuming their timing marks on this motor? if so i should just line it up at 0 degrees then or should i advance/retard it?
8. would probably just get new/rebuilt injectors.
9. i'll be doing the majority of the work myself. is the compression tester just screwed in to each individual cylinder where the glowplugs would go (like on a gasser but where the sparkplugs are at)?
10. plans are 35-36" tires, enough power to pull about 8-9k lbs max (most likely less), maintain 70mph at comfortable rpm's. for offroading i'll be putting in a dana 300 t-case with 4:1 low range.

1. so i need a diesel radiator.

You could hook up your original 305 radiator - but it is inadequate for the 6.2 when it's doing any work. An OEM 305 rad. measures approx. 19" high X 29" wide and has a 2 or 3 row core around 2 1/2" thick and small 1" side tanks. A 6.2 diesel radiator is 20 1/2 " high X 34" wide and 3 - 4 rows 2/3/4" thick and 3" side tanks.

2. so if i use the 60G glow plugs they should last a long time, where can i get those?

Any parts store, e.g. NAPA, Partsamerica, etc. Plus, many diesel shops are selling the Wellman plugs cheaper. I just bought a set of 8 Wellmans for $56.

3. can i take an IP and have it tested at a pump shop?

No - not that Know of. I've had pumps known to be new - off the shelf - and asked several shops if they'd mount it on their stand and test it - and they refused. There may be some exceptions, but most pump guys will tell you they will not mount any pump on their stand without taking it all apart and going through it first. Keep in mind that probably more than half the cost of what you pay for a "rebuilt" pump is the time it takes to mount it on a test-stand and check it.
For any injection pump built after 1985, it is rare for it to quit. They tend to die slowly and give you lots of warning. The timing-advance parts are the first to wear - which results in retarded timing, excess smoke, etc.
The pre-1985 pumps had some parts they did result in instant "dead-on-the-road" situations. But, once rebuilt, they are usually updated to the newer parts.

4. with the OEM glowplug controller i've heard the 85+ were good but the older ones were unreliable. so i should go with the newer OEM controller then?

I've never found any of them to be badly unreliable. I've got many pre-85s - two 82s and two 83s. The problem with the older thermal-type is the type of tech. used. They are more apt not to work in certain mid-range temp conditions. With the early, or later, add a manual over-ride as a backup and you'll be fine.


5. how much would either the vacuum pump cost or the hydroboost cost assuming i had to buy it seperatly?

Can't answer that - but I will say this. I think you are way ahead to buy a donor -parts vehicle. I find them all the time - in fact I've got to stop buying them. Recently, I bought a complete 83 4WD 6.2 diesel Blazer with 700R4 trans - rusty but runs good - paid $50. Also a few weeks ago I bought an 88 4WD 6.2 diesel Blazer with 700R4 trans., new mag wheels and 32" tires, and lot of new sheet-metal - and paid $400. A few days ago I bought an 86 4WD Blazer 6.2 diesel with 700R4 trans, trailer hitch, new 33" and 12.50 tires and alloy wheels, 80K original miles - runs but something wrong with the fuel system - paid $350. And - just got notice in the mail - I left a sealed bid at a local school for their 1991 6.2 diesel 4WD Suburban they are replacing - 145K miles, rusty but runs perfect - my bid of $225 was accepted. For now, if I find anymore I probably won't buy - my field is full of them. My point is - in many areas - 6.2 complete running vehicles can be bought easily for well under $400 - especially in areas that use a lot of road-salt.


6. military engine because its easier to find, i'll check in the san antonio area though for any civilian diesel motors before i do anything, as well as the dallas area.

I see good 6.2s for sale almost daily in the $200-$300 price-range on Ebay. You can ship across the country for around $400 - and if it closer- shipping is even cheaper.


7. i'm assuming their timing marks on this motor? if so i should just line it up at 0 degrees then or should i advance/retard it?

The timing marks make a good starting point. But, any engine with miles on it will have a sloppy timing chain. As a result, you need to bump up the initial injection pump timing to make up for the slop. Yes, the valve-timing will not be corrected - but it doesn't seem to hurt anything. My 87 Suburban got over 500K miles before the crank and block went to pieces. It had a pretty sloppy chain, yet fuel mileage and power was same since the day it was new.


8. would probably just get new/rebuilt injectors.

Good idea if service history is unknown. Many diesel shops - including the one I worked at for years - tested anyone's injectors as a free service. But - now adays? Hard to find anyone doing anything for free.
Last year I bought a real nice shape 1994 Ford with 7.3 turbodiesel - but I had no service history on it. 221K miles on the odometer. I found a deal on brand new injectors (not rebuilt). Nice thing about buying new is - there is no core charge - you don't trade in your old ones. So, since I got complete new ones for $20 each - I bought them and figured on sticking them in as preventative maintenance. Well - finally got around to it - pulled all my old injectors out - and tested them - and guess what? Tested like new. For all I know, the last owner had them changed shortly before I bought the truck.


9. i'll be doing the majority of the work myself. is the compression tester just screwed in to each individual cylinder where the glowplugs would go (like on a gasser but where the sparkplugs are at)?

In some engines yes - mostly direct-injected engines. With a 6.2 - it's much easier to screw into the glow-plug holes. Right now - there is someone on Ebay selling complete compression-test kits with the 500 PSI gauge, all the adapters to fit GM 6.2s, 6.5s, Fords, etc. for around $30. It's a great buy. I bought two recently just for spares. Made in China, of course.


10. plans are 35-36" tires, enough power to pull about 8-9k lbs max (most likely less), maintain 70mph at comfortable rpm's. for offroading i'll be putting in a dana 300 t-case with 4:1 low range.

Whatever. They'd be awful where I live. Big tires are dangerous in snow and ice - the stock tires grip MUCH better. They also make a short wheel-base truck like a Blazer handle much worse. And, on any truck, they have high rolling resistance and cause you to lose substantial MPGs. Plus side is - looks, ground clearance - and maybe in some off road conditions where you need high-flotation from wide tires?

what state are you located in? if your close enough to west texas i'd take one of those trucks off your hands, if you wanted to sell one.

truck has 33" tires right now. handles good, decent power even with only 1 set of the butterfly's working on the carb (vacuum hose missing to power the other butterfly). i'll be staying at 33's until the tires wear out (have about 75-80% tread so it will be a while). i like to do rock crawling and trail riding so if i can get 12-15" of wheel travel per wheel and go where i want to go in its current height then i'll stay there, absolute most lift i would go is 4" and 36" tires, if i can go where i wanna go with 33's then i'll stay there. i believe in having your truck modified for its uses, i hate trucks rollin on the street with 8+ inches of lift and 38+ tires, expecially since they never, ever even see a dirt road.

the only time i ever see snow/ice is when i go visit my parents up in utah, 99% of the time where i live i can ride my motorcycle without any traction problems because its so dry. truck currently has bfg at tires on it that gripped very well driving through the snow/ice.

timing chain, if i know the motor is running good (i hear it and inspect it) then i wont have to worry about replacing it until it needs to be. if i buy just a motor then i will put a new chain/tensioner in it, just to be carefull.

is there a website that has alot of these vehicles for sale at these low prices you listed? in my area 200 bucks will get you the block only at a junkyard, no heads or manifolds or anything else.

what state are you located in?

timing chain, if i know the motor is running good (i hear it and inspect it) then i wont have to worry about replacing it until it needs to be. if i buy just a motor then i will put a new chain/tensioner in it, just to be carefull.

is there a website that has alot of these vehicles for sale at these low prices you listed? in my area 200 bucks will get you the block only at a junkyard, no heads or manifolds or anything else.

I'm in central New York State. Most vehicles around here rust out way before they wear out. Trucking is always the issue. In your area - you've got rust-free vehicles I'd love to buy - but the trucking often cost as much as the purchase price.
Funny thing with many 6.2 vehicles around here though - I find many that don't see much salt and don't get all that rusty. I suspect because of the many below-zero winter days - many 6.2 owners don't want to deal with all the cold-weather problems assoiciated with diesels. So many get parked and only used in the summer.

In regard to the timing chain there is NO tensioner. Just a double-row steel chain and sprockets. The sprockets are all steel though - no plastic to fall apart like many older small-block gas engines had. The 6.2 chains wear and get loose enough to retard injection pump timing -but I've never heard of one failing. My 87 6.2 Suburban with over 500K miles on it had chain-slack that resulted in 4 degrees at the pump - which is not all that much. You adjust the pump to compensate - but of course the valve timing will still be a little off spec. Doesn't seem to effect much though.
The Ford IH 6.9s and 7.3s are all gear drive which is certainly better - but how much ? I don't know. I drove my Suburban for over 500K miles, fuel mileage, cold starting, and power never changed over it's life since new. What else is there?

In regard to websites that sell them? None that I know of other then Ebay. I rarely find a good deal there - but they come up once in awhile. Ebay has and awful lot of deatbeat bidders and is doing nothing about it. So, very often you see the same vehicle get "sold" over and over.
The military surplus website sells lot of 6.2 engines and complete CUCV Blazers and trucks. I dont' buy there since you never know what you are getting. The average life of a 6.2 used in Iraq or Afghanastan was 1000 miles - so they got abused. An almost civilian CUCV is a different story. But - I've looked at a few - and with some - they were absolutely beat to death.

I've been buying 6.2s since they first came out. In the early 80s many local repair shops were removing low-miles engines and replacing with gas - since many of those mechanics were clueless in regard to diesels. Also, the 6.2s were often regared as close cousins to those G*d-awful Olds 350 diesels. In reality, there is no relation - other than they both have the same parent company of GM. I grabbed them when I could. Some got removed just because the glow-plugs didn't work. I've got over 20 complete runing diesel trucks/Blazers and probably the remnants of 20 morea and at least a dozen engines. I tend to buy any 6.2 diesel if cheap enough. But, lately - the past 6 months - they seem to be popping up all over the place and if I buy anymore - ??? The last one I just won a sealed-bid on - the 91 Suburban 4WD 6.2. I have no use for it - for when a school district lets one go - well maintained - for $225 - how can I pass on it?

way too far off for shipping a complete vehicle, parts could work like a working engine, hydroboost/power steering (if its different from a gasoline power steering setup), glowplug relay and radiator might not be too bad since i could have it sent freight to a business address. shoot me a PM on prices.

cars have the opposite problem out here, they dont rust but either the drivetrain gets worn out or the vehicle gets wrecked. 2 out of the 5 vehicles i've had have been totalled (not by me), most durable truck i've had was an 89 1500 suburban. how they couldnt see a suburban that was off white and poop brown colored i have no idea but it got rear ended and backed into alot.

another reason to go diesel, my fuel tanks are outside my frame rails on that truck. diesel fuel doesnt ignite nearly as easily as gasoline so i wouldnt have to worry about a possible fire if i get t-boned at some point.

wow just looked on that government liquidation website and found about 2 1/2 pages worth of diesel 6.2L engines goin to auction 19-23 of january in texas at the hooks/texarkana area. i know i'd probably have to rebuild it, at least new gaskets and a timing chain but with that many in texas (and money permitting) i just might be able to get one.