I need a people who have seen the insides of lots of diesel engines to see this.
On the 6.2L the oil pump pressureizes at least the rear main cap and bearings with unfiltered oil, not sure about the other main caps/rod bearings.
I droped the pan to replace the rear main seal (I have a 2 peice, so no trans droping).
IMO the bearing I pulled looks like it is in bad shape.
The only main bearings have ever seen looked a lot better then this in good engines or looked a little worse in toasted engines.
So I need people who have seen a lot more then me to take a look at my junkish main bearing.

The surface of the bearing is lead, super soft, and I don't see any copper, can't be in that bad of shape!

I think I see some copper around the inner worn area.
I thought most warn spot was down to steel. Thought I saw the 4 different layers the bearings are made and coated with. I think it is Pb, Cd, Cu then steel for the base?
Could be wrong?
I didn't think the scratches are normal.
When I go back to work next week if I have not all ready ordered new bearings I'll take a micrometer to them and check the ware.

what does crank journal look like, if it looks ok, you could roll in new bearings. bearings will grab junk and imbed it into soft metal coatings of bearing.

Journals look good, the hole inside of the engine looks great.
Cylinder bores look great, cam lobes look normal.
And the rear main seal was trashed, 1/3 of it was blown away. As in Totally gone. It was one of those rope type seals. It looked like some thing like hair pulled form a shower drain compacted together. And it had been replaced at least one other time, the off set and tons of RTV gave that away.
The $15 Felpro steel reinforced moulded replacement seal should be about a 1000% improvement. It is soaking in Rotella right now.
So New Main bearing it is?
I guess I will number and arrow the main caps.

I wouldn't take things apart that far without replacing them. Kind of like how I wasn't willing to do a rebuild without replacing the clutch. Of course it was the original factory clutch and had never been done before.

that bearing doesnt look too bad....the bearing tools i used to get the other half out looked like a bolt that had the head part ground down real smooth and flat...then put the threaded part in the whole of the crank...turn the engine over by hand and the "special tool" with force the other half of the bearing out....dont know if you new that or not but thought it might help

Never heard of that tool.
I have allways used a curved aluminum punch made form aluminum sheet all most as thick as the bearing.
I orded new Main bearings, I am going to change them all.
Should I do the rod bearings too?
Then I won't tear into it any more. I'm done for now.

Maybe a stud girdle while you have the mains apart? Might be some good added insurance.

i wouldnt worry about the rod bearings unless your feeling froggy and want to replace them....how many miles are on the engine....looks like its just had normal wear and tear

I am very sure it is the original motor, the main bearings say 12 83 on them. It has around 220,000+ miles on it.