Looking for some quick ideas. Still at work ( about 40+ miles from home ) Truck started just fine, ran for about 1 minute then just died. Just like someone shut the key off. It turns over fine and all the electronics seem to work. I can hear the lift pump run while I'm waiting for the glow plug light to go out. I switched the two 30A fuses on the door panel ( one runs the interior lights and one is for the IP ). Both fuses were good. I disconnected both batteries for 10 seconds. It doesn't even "cough" like it's trying to start. It's about 6F and the wind chill is at -23F. Fuel is fine, it's not a gelling issue. It's got to be electronic. I did just have it in the GM shop last week and they did the IP TDC Learn adjust and rotated the IP (-.5 :() . I'm guessing a wire came loose?

I am guessing it is a water in fuel issue and it froze.

got it home. Heading to the garage now.

Tried a bottle of 911 de-icer in the tank ( tank is about 1/2 full so about 20 gals ) and added to the fuel filter. It actually started but did the same thing. Ran about 30 seconds then just shut off just as if the key were turned off. I refilled the fuel filter again but would not start. It is turning over slow though. I was down to about 5 gals last night and put in about 19 gals to bring it up to 5/8ths. Then drove it home about 30 miles. Left it plugged in last night. Drove it to work this AM about 41 miles. Took it out to lunch with the guys at noon about 3 miles (It did shut off while at about 40mph for about 3/4 seconds once which it has never done before). Then after work it started right up, ran for 30 secs then shut off.
I do have a remote PMD located behind front dr. batt. (Installed this summer). Thought, does having it in the factory position effect the heat it adds to the IP pump to help keep it warm?

I hate to say it, but that reminds me alot of when my IP died. It ran fine all day, with occasional hiccups, and one stall and instant restart. I figured it was a fuel filter issue so I drove down to the local NAPA to pick one up. After I was done in the store, I fired up my truck, it ran for a second or two and died. That was it for the pump.

Make sure ANY additive is for diesel service. Alcohol products are not friendly to fuel system.

Most IP's (DS4's) don't just outright die that quickly. There is usually a drawn out "I kinda know it's commin'" with codes and other clues before it just outright dies.

Slow turn over will not help either. 100 RPM minimum to crank. This can indicate bad battery cables, weak batteries, weak starter, weak electrical components, bad grounds. etc. etc.

Should not have to add heat to the pump for it to work properly.

If it was the IP then it would not run with fuel added to the filter mgr, is the filter mgr dry when you remove the top, if so fuel isn't making it to the IP (running out of fuel) test lift pump/OPS. Same thing as has been recommended for the "RASH" of my truck quit posts, check wiring; why .... what has changed ???

In North America it is now winter, poor grounds, or low batt volts would be #1 place to look as cold physically challenges any "cold junction" connections with oxidation/corrosion, or makes a weak celled battery weaker.

In your bag of tools in addition to having a vac/pressure gauge, every 6.5 owner should buy IMO a load cell battery tester, about $40 on avg will save tons of guess work to know if battery's have capability of providing amps (working power of the battery) as well as volts.

Go through diagnostics link after checking wiring/batts, did you save your old PMD might be worth a try if all else fails to pop on one of those

Left it in the garage all day on the charger and plugged in. Bought a new filter as the old one was pretty dark (had run some b100 and b50 towards the end of the season) even though it only has about 3k or less on. It fired right up and kept running. Even though the fuel was supposed to have addative to it good to -20F I put in about 10 gallons of #1 (it had about 20 of #2 with addative). Plus I also added the PPS diesel 911 de-icer/ anti-gel from last night. It's still running good about 45 minutes now. I'n guess/ hoping Fuel and Filter was the culprit. Thanks for all the help. Wife's rig and with two little ones just can't afford to take chances as this AM was -12F w/ -28F WC.

I quit running B20 about a month ago for this very reason. Now I'm running straight No.2 with additive that is supposed to be good to well below 0F, and hopefully by the next time I fill up they'll be have the diesel blend at the pumps (50/50 No.1/No.2).

I'm 4 hours south of you, give or take, and when I went to work yesterday morning the temperature outdoors was -5F!

Well, on the way home about 1 minute after I started it, it did the silent pause again then was fine the rest of the way home (about 1 mile). My oil (10-40 diesel oil) is pretty black and thick (maybe 3k on it). If it gets too thick and cold can it make the OPS sensor act intermittent? And if it did is that enough to make the lift pump stop for a moment. And if it did could it create this symptom or would it give it more of a stumble on it's way off. Again this is an abrupt off as if I turned the key off and on as fast as I could. I'm just really suspicious because it was at the GM dealership last week and they did TDC leard mode.

Per Turbine Docs request I read a thread from earlier this year regarding a similar issue (I believe it was 18 pages w/ about 180 replies). It did help. Mostly because several times they thought they had solved the problem but to no avail. Similarly I thought that when I measured 12 VDC at the Lift Pump and it wasn't working I had solved it. I replaced it and it popped right off. It worked great, for a day, then back to the same thing, start up then die, then wouldn't start. I suspected the local GM dealer may have missed something when I had it in for the TDC learn mode and thus IP timing adjust. I found the single black wire that comes from the PMD/ IP was loose. It was connected to one of the IP pumps screws (I'm assuming you have to loosen these to turn the pump during the IP physical timing procedure). It didn't seem to get really tight (maybe the aluminum was beginning to strip out?). I used Red thread lock and it's been working ever since (about a week now).

Sounds like your talking about the ground wire that goes to the fuel shut-off solenoid.

Very important wire there.