I am lookin to do these mods over x-mas while/if i have the spare time. I've heard much praise about the transgo jr. kit but I haven't heard much about transynd. Does it improve the holding of the tranny? Also, how do i go about getting the fluid out of the cooler? just remove one of the lines and let it drain? and one more thing, does the deep pan make much of a difference?

Thanks everyone,
Auston

Anyone??

I am lookin to do these mods over x-mas while/if i have the spare time. I've heard much praise about the transgo jr. kit but I haven't heard much about transynd. Does it improve the holding of the tranny? Also, how do i go about getting the fluid out of the cooler? just remove one of the lines and let it drain? and one more thing, does the deep pan make much of a difference?

Thanks everyone,
Auston

Just installed the transgo jr and transynd flush yesterday. I used the "Hoot method" to flush and it seemed to work real well and I am extremely happy with the results. As for a deep pan I have never seen the need for my use. Here is a copy of the hoot method if it helps any:

Notes

Cleanliness is extremely important.

If the o-ring stays in the bore when changing the suction filter—don’t jam a screwdriver
up the hole to retrieve it. Use some finesse and it will come.

The assumption is that the transmission was at the correct level before beginning this procedure.

Wearing safety glasses is a good idea—the fluid really stings in your eyes.

Previous posts indicate: Stock shallow pan capacity-7.4 qts when drained.
Large pan capacity-7.4 qts. + 3.2 qts.=10.6 qts.
Total capacity-(dry system) shallow pan=12.7 qts.
Total capacity-(dry system) deep pan=15.9 qts.

When I drained I measured approximately 8.2 quarts (including residual fluid in factory pan,
oil out of spin on filter, and oil that ran out when pulling suction filter and disconnecting transmission line.


Parts Needed:

• Pan #29536522
• Suction Filter# 29537966
• Transynd fluid #27101-four to five gallons
• Transynd dipstick label #00SA3316EN
• Spin-on filter-#29539579

Tools Needed:

1. Two feet of 5/8 heater hose
2. 13mm & 15mm socket, and 3/8 ratchet or equivalent
3. Torque wrench- 3/8”
4. Empty three gallon containers—2 ea
5. Safety Glasses
6. Plenty of rags
7. Very small screwdriver



Procedure:

Drain pan. Would not recommend doing this with hot oil. Keep track of how much oil you drain in this pan.


Reinstall plug in pan finger tight and remove 12 bolts.

After dropping pan, inspect gasket and set aside for re-use if O.K.

Remove suction filter with o-ring. More oil will come out when you pull the suction filter.

The “O-ring” is not the traditional o-ring but instead an orange colored very thick ring.
If the ring stays in place when pulling the old suction filter off, just wipe clean, reinsert in
hole and **** the filter a little sideways while removing.
The o-ring should come out with the filter.

Remove and replace spin on filter—prime if you like.
Don’t forget to transfer magnet from old to new filter, wipe magnet clean before
installing in new filter.


Install new suction filter, don’t forget the o-ring.

Install new pan with gasket.
Torque pan bolts to 20 foot pounds.

Install drain plug and tighten to 25 foot pounds.

Pour approximately 11 quarts of oil in transmission.

Disconnect upper line from trans cooler at the transmission.
These lines are on the passenger side of the transmission, near the torque converter.
The lines are also identified on the side of the transmission

Quote from Hoot: “In case you haven’t seen the Jiffy-Tite style connector before: Slide back the plastic cover over the c-clip-shaped spring, then use a small screwdriver to pop the spring out of it’s groove. KEEP A FINGER ON THE SPRING AS YOU DO THIS, because those springs love to go flying off into some dark hole where you’ll never find it. Once the spring is out, just pull and wiggle on the line until it comes out of the fitting. As soon as you have the line out you can put the spring back into its groove so you don’t lose it-the line will snap right back into place when you’re done, even with the spring there. Be careful not to damage the o-rings when re-installing.”

Attach the two foot hose to the line you just unhooked and run into your other container. Make sure to push the hose on far enough to go past the ridge in the line. Have one person hold the hose while another starts the truck (unless you have remote) and a third person pour oil in the filler tube.

Turn the truck on and off until you run about one and a half gallons out of the line.

You will have empty transynd containers (if you bought the one gallon size) that you can set inside of your second container, which you can run the hose directly into to measure your progress. Be careful the oil comes out pretty fast.

At this point check how much oil you drained initially and how much you drained in the flush. Subtract how much you drained from how much you added and shoot for a difference of 3.2 quarts. In other words you want 3.2 quarts more in the transmission then you drained out. If you have too much in the transmission run a little more out of the cooler line.

Once you are satisfied the oil level is close, reconnect the cooler line and make sure the line is firmly attached.

You should have the c-clip back in its original position before reconnecting the line.

When reconnecting the line it will “click” in position and may squirt you in the face with a touch of oil.

Start truck and look for leaks, then run the transmission through the gears a few times.

Put truck back in park and check level with dipstick. Should be full cold-if not add fluid.

Drive the truck enough to get the transmission warmed up and then check again-should be to full hot mark.

I just finished installing the Transgo JR kit in my 07 Classic 3500. I did install a deep pan. The deep pan adds 3 1/2 quarts of extra oil to the trans. IMHO I wouldn't run an automatic transmission without one. I have a B&M cast deep pan on a 4L80E in my 98 3/4 ton truck. If you plan to do any towing, you should consider it. I got an Allison deep pan, deep pan filter, and a external spin on filter from Merchant Automotive for $100.00, plus shipping. I didn't install the Transynd oil at this time as I only have 450 miles on the truck. I WILL change to it this spring, when I have more miles on the OEM oil. I will also use the "Hoot" method when I do change it. Synthetic oil is the best way to go, as you can go 100,000 miles on a change, it doesn't break down from the heat of towing, and less oxidation of the oil.
As for your question about it holding more power, yes it will. How much more depends on your truck, and how you drive. Read the following post, and it might answer your questions better.
www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115356

I had a hard time finding the torque spec's for the valve body. I torqued the 2 body half's to 90 inch pounds when I reassembled them. I then installed the VB back in the transmission, and torqued those screws to 90 inch pounds. Then brought all the VB screws up to 110 inch pounds. As for the pan and drain plug, those torque spec's are listed in the "Hoot" method above.
If you need some pictures, I have several I took while doing this job.
Good Luck, Snake

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the advice and now am definitely looking forward to scratching this off my list. Take care and happy holidays.