Tire shop just rotated my tires so when I go to pull the rears off to check why my park brake sucks I can't get em off.They are way over 200 ft lbs and I can't budge them with my 1/2" air tool either.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif


My concern is with the studs ability to still retain the proper stretch after overtorqueing.


Do you think anything was harmed?


I have a real safety concern here as well since having a wheel loosen up while going down the road is no fun.


I'll be at the tire shop first thing in the morning for sure.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Unhappy.gif


Blake

You need a speed handle to break them. 200ft lbs is too much and I would limit it to 125ftlbs max. They may not actually be that tight though, they may be a bit stuck.

Tire shop just rotated my tires so when I go to pull the rears off to check why my park brake sucks I can't get em off.They are way over 200 ft lbs and I can't budge them with my 1/2" air tool either.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif


My concern is with the studs ability to still retain the proper stretch after overtorqueing.


Do you think anything was harmed?


I have a real safety concern here as well since having a wheel loosen up while going down the road is no fun.


I'll be at the tire shop first thing in the morning for sure.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Unhappy.gif


Blake





I've had several vehicles where tire shop gorillas over-torqued the wheel lug nuts. This makes it a real problem if you need to change the tire on the road somewhere. Over torqued wheels can, under certain conditions, warp brake rotors. Some of the better tire shops use a torque wrench or they adjust their pneumatic equipment to the proper torque settings based on the type of vehicle.


I would instruct your tire shop to use a specific torque setting. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

If they are actually at 200 ft/lbs I would chew there a$$ and make them replace them. The main problem is they are probably to stupid to do the work or they wouldn't have messed up in the first place. The correct torque is 140 ft/lbs.

Yeah I've got the Helms manual etc so I know the proper torque but what kills me is the drivers side is right at 140 ft lbs and the passenger side is "gorilla" cranked down.Obviously 2 guys and 2 differing techniques.The owner was out today and I'm sturgeon fishing tomorrow so Wednesday I'll chew some a$$ and I'll see what they'll do.


Thanks for the replies!I'm happy to know I'm not the only one this chit happens to.You know what they say "misery loves company".


Blake

Most tire shops use the 'click sticks' to tighten lugs anymore. I would guess the overtightened one was installed by someone who didn't want to go get the proper stick, or they only have one set of sticks and he was in a hurry. I have a set of sticks for every vehicle I own or have owned over the last 10 years or so. I hate it when I have to r&r the bolts I broke.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

One of the readrs talked about click sticks. The tire shop I trade with recently got all new improved click sticks because the old ones were very inaccurarte. When I go to a tire shop they use my torque wrench( calibrated annualy) or they don't get my business. Want to mess up the minds off your tire shop gorilla's, ask them to showw you the calibration records for thier torque wrenches and tire balancers.

Want to mess up the minds off your tire shop gorilla's, ask them to showw you the calibration records for thier torque wrenches and tire balancers.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


I agree with you Bill. I always verify my click sticks with the torque wrenches(also calibrated annually). I like to know the torque spec's/requirements on everything to avoid breaking things.

Want to mess up the minds off your tire shop gorilla's, ask them to showw you the calibration records for thier torque wrenches and tire balancers.


I'm going to have to try that! That sounds like more fun than asking the parts monkey at one of the chains for a upper radiator hose for a 72 VW Super Beatlehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Well I talked to the owner of the tire shop and he grabbed a torque wrench and proceeded to back off and re torque every nut.They were all correct and my own wrench agreed with his.He says the nuts kind of "stick" requiring a lot more force to break loose than tightening does.The socket also makes a difference too he was using a 6 point Proto or Snap On that fits a lot tighter than the 12 point I was using.It was no big deal backing them off using the right tools and I ended up doing the last wheel just to make sure I wasn't losing it.


I'm happy and my nuts are too!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Blake

try using anti seizing compound on threads...this will sure keep them from striping, sticking....if you install egt on exhaust manifold, when pulling manifold anti seize goo is a must for reinstalling...IMHO


Mark

The "sticking" part is from lug nut to wheel not a thread seize.


Blake

Put a little anti-seize on the tapered face of those lug nuts as well to eliminate the nut to wheel stiction. Doesn't hurt to put a little on the face of the hub, PYO's have been know to stick to them too.


So, were your nuts overtorqued or not? One of your last posts indicate they came off ok with the proper tool and his torque wrench matched yours. Reason I ask is I am holding a broken stud/lug nut at this moment after the trucks last trip to a tire shop for alignment. They too say they use click-sticks. Nut is galled to the stud, no antiseize used by them. I broke it trying to rotate the tires at home. Using a big X wrench it backed off about 1 very difficult turn, then it was on the floor. No I wasn't standing on the wrench and yes I might be a little stronger than average...


Anybody know how hard it is to replace one of the front studs on a 4x4 ? I figure they won't own up to it since it was a while ago.

If you use a lubricant on the threads it will affect the final nut torque and they will be overtight. Lube on the face of the nut is a good idea however.

If you use a lubricant on the threads it will affect the final nut torque and they will be overtight. Lube on the face of the nut is a good idea however.

I have lubed lug nuts for over 25 years on everything including farm tractors and never had a problem. I do not get carried away torquing them and they come off fairly easily when needed.

Lots of variables on lug nut torque and its not rocket science for sure but.......when I do wheel changes at home I spray WD-40 on the stud to clean of any grit etc so I get a more consistant read.I have never broke a wheel stud lubed or dry.


Dave Ski:The tire shop had the correct torque all along it was the "stiction" that was the culprit.Dumb thing was I reefed on that sucker with my tools and no go but when I used theirs it was cheesecake.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


Blake