I've got 5000 miles on my '06Lbz so time for it's first service. Oil change, external allison filter change. Anything else you guys can think of let me know. Anyway dealer charged me 13.85 for the oil filter, and 35.95 for the Allison filter, and 8.57 for the Dextron VI fluid. Sure seems like typical dealer ripoff to me. Couple of questions.

Can I get the Allison filters cheaper elsewhere?

What's the best oil fiter for these engines? I've heard the AC Delco was very good?

How about the Dextron fluid. Anywhere to get that cheaper.

Still haven't bought the oil. What kind should I use. Synthetic or Dino. I live in Michigan. What viscosity?

Dealer also said they recommend a flush and fill of the Allison. Price $200

WoW, These D-Max's are sure expensive to maintain.

Thanks,
Eric.

Well I dont think i would flush the trans already they(GM) say to flush the allison at 25K for servere use and at 50K for normal use.

I've always used AC Delco filters on my GMs and as for prices dont know what to tell you.

Get them from here, this is where I get my filters. Always keep a spare fuel filter, yu"ll never know when you will need it http://www.gmdieseltech.com/store2/

I pay $2.95ea for my oil filters from Auto Zone. The Allison filter I get Directly from Allison usually $8.25ea. I like Delo 15w-40 diesel oil, 6 one gallon jugs from BJ's whole sale club $48.50. Fuel filters from fleet filters at $19.99 each, and nobody touches my truck but me!!! Priceless:D

I pay $2.95ea for my oil filters from Auto Zone. The Allison filter I get Directly from Allison usually $8.25ea. I like Delo 15w-40 diesel oil, 6 one gallon jugs from BJ's whole sale club $48.50. Fuel filters from fleet filters at $19.99 each, and nobody touches my truck but me!!! Priceless:D
AMEN BRO!:D

I pay $2.95ea for my oil filters from Auto Zone. The Allison filter I get Directly from Allison usually $8.25ea. I like Delo 15w-40 diesel oil, 6 one gallon jugs from BJ's whole sale club $48.50. Fuel filters from fleet filters at $19.99 each, and nobody touches my truck but me!!! Priceless:D

What kind of oil filters are you using?

I have a little over 10K on my truck now. Well accually almost 11K.
Have changed the oil twice already, once around 3500 miles and one not too long ago. I would use the dino until you get right around 10K on the truck, give that engine a chance to break in properly. Then switch to the synthetic, but that is me, alot of guys on here are still using dyno with no problems at all. I think it is personal preference really.
I get all my filters from Merchant Automotive, they are listed in the supporting vendors. I use the factory replacements for the fuel, trans (spin on), and oil filter. So far they haven't let me down, never had a problem getting them on or off, and always seem to do a good job of filtering. Plus, if I go to the dealership for some service, that gives them one less thing to gripe about.

Bruins499,
I am using Duralast D524. These filters are made by Champion labs who also make the AC Delco filter. I called them directly (champion labs) same specs on the filter different color on the can. All factory warranties remain intact.

Just got back from the stdealer.
QUOTE
"I've got 5000 miles on my '06Lbz so time for it's first service. Oil change, external allison filter change. Anything else you guys can think of let me know. Anyway dealer charged me 13.85 for the oil filter, and 35.95 for the Allison filter, and 8.57 for the Dextron VI fluid. Sure seems like typical dealer ripoff to me. Couple of questions.

Can I get the Allison filters cheaper elsewhere?"


Check out GMPARTS4LESS on ebay
a complete set of filters for about $45, 2 oil,1 allison,1 fuel, and the trans. fluid is available from your dealership, if you can get discount, is about $15 a gallon. When I changed mine I only lost what was in the filter plus about half again. I buy Chevron DELO 15w-40 by the gallon for less than 9 bucks a gallon at Wal-Mart:D

My oil changes are free and a flush this early is for sure not needed. They are just trying to get money out of you..

Dealer also said they recommend a flush and fill of the Allison. Price $200


What a ripoff!! They're just trying to "flush" your wallet for that ridiculous of a price!!Censored Censored

NAPA sells the allison filter, only difference is the box it comes in. They also sell their version... stick with ally filter.

Tranny flush??? not needed yet, change filter every 5k miles and pull drain plug at 10K, works for me so far at 61K. We have a tranny flush machine and I won't use it on an ally, IMO ally flows more than flush machine will. I still use dex fluid in ally.

Most stealers have a "recommended maintainance" paper they give you, most still say change spark plugs at 30K miles.... in other words it's outdated and it's only purpose is to line stealer's pockets.

It's not a problem with the warrantee if you do your own LOF, or if it's done by an independent mechanic? I always thought you had to have a maintanance record done at an "authorized" GM dealer to keep from hoseing your warrantee. It sure be nice to be able to go to my own mechanic for service, it'd sure beat the hour & 30 mins at the dealer. Only downside - no "complimentariy" wash, which I always have to ask for at the dealer (not like they do a very good job washing it though).

Can I get the Allison filters cheaper elsewhere?
$10.
$4 for the magnet. Your dealer probably threw yours away.
What's the best oil fiter for these engines? I've heard the AC Delco was very good?
Mobil-1 M1-303. Synthetic media. The AC is also a good filter.
How about the Dextron fluid. Anywhere to get that cheaper.
GM will stop licensing Dexron-III in 2007, so in less than 6 months, ALL Dexron fluids will be Dex-VI compliant or they will not be able to carry the Dex name.
Still haven't bought the oil. What kind should I use. Synthetic or Dino. I live in Michigan. What viscosity?
Rotella or Amsoil 5w40 synthetic.
Mobil-1 Delvac-1 is also good, but hard to find. Mobil-1 5w40 has not shown up on the shelves around here yet.
Dealer also said they recommend a flush and fill of the Allison. Price $200
Find another dealer.
At about 20k to 25k, consider a fluid exchange. Dump the Dexron and go with Castrol TransSynd, Citgo QuatraSynd, or Amsoil TorqueDrive.
I went with TorqueDrive... about $156 for the fluid and Mike L took good care of me on the change, but it IS something you can do yourself.
WoW, These D-Max's are sure expensive to maintain.
Only if you pay the dealer for labor (and inflated parts prices).

Doing it yourself, you're looking at roughly $50-$60 for an oil change with full synthetic. Once you replace the ATF, you'll have enough left over to handle refilling the Allison spin-on filter until it's time to flush again at 75k.
BTW: Your dealer charged you for a quart of Dexron-VI... hope he gave you the bottle because he actually USED about 4oz.
The Fuel filter is around $35 or so, but it only needs to be changed every 15k unless you get a bad load of fuel... then it can be toast in 10 minutes. Always carry a spare filter with you.


Don't forget to lube the chassis (all 11 point) at EVERY oil change. There have been reports of joint failures as early as 30k, and it seems that every time I crawl under my truck, the joints are DRY and take 3-4 squirts.

The differentials should be done now, refill with Mobil-1 75w90, 4 quarts rear, 2 quarts front for 4x4. That'll hold you for another 25k or so.
That'll cost you about $60... dealer gets $22/qt for the GM spec fluid.

It's not a problem with the warrantee if you do your own LOF, or if it's done by an independent mechanic? I always thought you had to have a maintanance record done at an "authorized" GM dealer to keep from hoseing your warrantee.
Nope... that's illegal under Magnusson-Moss.
As long as you have your receipts, your warranty cannot be denied UNLESS the manufacturer offers the parts and labor for free.

here is a question.....i do my own LOF...i have 92k on my truck right now and have to admit I am not very good at keeping track of recipts...should my injectors crap out in the next 108k...can/will the dealer deny my warrenty if i can not prove it has been serviced?

They could, and perhaps even get away with it in court, but if you push it to the regional manager, he most likely will take care of you.

Good To Know....kinda Sad To Think It Would Even Be A Problem Though..i Mean How Does A Lof Effect An Injector?

What's LOF ??

here is a question.....i do my own LOF...i have 92k on my truck right now and have to admit I am not very good at keeping track of recipts...should my injectors crap out in the next 108k...can/will the dealer deny my warrenty if i can not prove it has been serviced?

If you had a good relationship with the dealer i wouldnt see where warenty for the injectors would be a problem, but at the same time 108K you are out by Miles and the dealer wouldnt have to replace them if they didnt want to under warenty.

LOF....Lube Oil Filter

hemisareslow,
Your signature shows a 2003 year truck, injectors are covered for 200,000 miles aren't they. The only problem is if the injector sticks open and takes out the motor. Then it's the injector that is covered not the motor. Grey area.

$10.
$4 for the magnet. Your dealer probably threw yours away.

Mobil-1 M1-303. Synthetic media. The AC is also a good filter.

GM will stop licensing Dexron-III in 2007, so in less than 6 months, ALL Dexron fluids will be Dex-VI compliant or they will not be able to carry the Dex name.

Rotella or Amsoil 5w40 synthetic.
Mobil-1 Delvac-1 is also good, but hard to find. Mobil-1 5w40 has not shown up on the shelves around here yet.

Find another dealer.
At about 20k to 25k, consider a fluid exchange. Dump the Dexron and go with Castrol TransSynd, Citgo QuatraSynd, or Amsoil TorqueDrive.
I went with TorqueDrive... about $156 for the fluid and Mike L took good care of me on the change, but it IS something you can do yourself.

Only if you pay the dealer for labor (and inflated parts prices).

Doing it yourself, you're looking at roughly $50-$60 for an oil change with full synthetic. Once you replace the ATF, you'll have enough left over to handle refilling the Allison spin-on filter until it's time to flush again at 75k.
BTW: Your dealer charged you for a quart of Dexron-VI... hope he gave you the bottle because he actually USED about 4oz.
The Fuel filter is around $35 or so, but it only needs to be changed every 15k unless you get a bad load of fuel... then it can be toast in 10 minutes. Always carry a spare filter with you.


Don't forget to lube the chassis (all 11 point) at EVERY oil change. There have been reports of joint failures as early as 30k, and it seems that every time I crawl under my truck, the joints are DRY and take 3-4 squirts.

The differentials should be done now, refill with Mobil-1 75w90, 4 quarts rear, 2 quarts front for 4x4. That'll hold you for another 25k or so.
That'll cost you about $60... dealer gets $22/qt for the GM spec fluid.


Rich, it's time for me to crawl under the truck and lube the chassis. I've looked but can't find a diagram on chassis lube points. I would imagine they will be front end suspension, drivetrain and possibly rear suspension, anywhere else.

Rich, it's time for me to crawl under the truck and lube the chassis. I've looked but can't find a diagram on chassis lube points. I would imagine they will be front end suspension, drivetrain and possibly rear suspension, anywhere else.


Check out this link of the 11 lub points. Thanks for the save Tom.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=697753&postcount=12

What's LOF ??

LOF=Lube, Oil & Filter

It's trucktalk ):h ):h ):h

Steve

Check out this link of the 11 lub points. Thanks for the save Tom.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=697753&postcount=12

make sure your grease gun has the long flexible hose, makes getting that last zerk fitting up high much easier...:grd:

Rich, it's time for me to crawl under the truck and lube the chassis. I've looked but can't find a diagram on chassis lube points. I would imagine they will be front end suspension, drivetrain and possibly rear suspension, anywhere else.
BTW:
Grab the filters and magnet from Eric Merchant at www.gmdieseltech.com
Filters: http://www.gmdieseltech.com/store2/cart.php?target=category&action=view&category_id=252
Magnet: http://www.gmdieseltech.com/store2/cart.php?target=product&action=view&product_id=16198&category_id=310

Thanks, Rich & Tom. Yes, I've got the long flex on my grease gun. Will get under the truck in the AM.

Wayne z.

I've got 5000 miles on my '06Lbz so time for it's first service. Oil change, external allison filter change. Anything else you guys can think of let me know. Anyway dealer charged me 13.85 for the oil filter, and 35.95 for the Allison filter, and 8.57 for the Dextron VI fluid. Sure seems like typical dealer ripoff to me. Couple of questions.

Can I get the Allison filters cheaper elsewhere?

What's the best oil fiter for these engines? I've heard the AC Delco was very good?

How about the Dextron fluid. Anywhere to get that cheaper.

Still haven't bought the oil. What kind should I use. Synthetic or Dino. I live in Michigan. What viscosity?

Dealer also said they recommend a flush and fill of the Allison. Price $200

WoW, These D-Max's are sure expensive to maintain.

Thanks,
Eric.

Eric--only expensive to maintain at your stealer--flushing the Ally at your mileage--that deserves you dropping a dime to the regional manager.They need to be spanked big time.Get ALL your filters from Fleetfilter,a vendor here if you want the best filters at the lowest cost--either Napa Gold or Wix.ATF at Walmart,Sam's Club,etc.As far as oil--the sky's the limit here--mostly depends on your trucks use and your thoughts on price,longevity,etc.Just make sure the oil you choose meets ALL the requirements--get out your manual and start reading.

I'm into combining jobs and maximizing my effort. Every 7500 miles- I change oil (Rotella Synthetic), oil filter, fuel filter, rotate tires, lube chassis. Change Allison Spin-on every 15k, and drain Allison every 30k. At 60k do the internal Allison filter.

Buy all filters from GMParts4less, use only oem and buy fluids from Wal-Mart, including Power Service. This is my second Diesel, third truck.

-Keith

'06 LBZ

Thanks guys. You have all been a big help. Went to Walmart and bought a case of Rotella T 15W-40 gallons. This is the new stuff. That is CJ-4 compliant. Although my manual doesn't spell it out this new stuff is fine for my '06 correct? Website claims like 50% better wear protection.

the scheduled maintenance for your vehicle will be in your owners manual also there are owners checks that need to be done and checks that need to be done monthly and yearly as recomended by GM. It looks to me the only other filter that needs to be changed on your first service is the external filter on the allison. no flush and fill. your owners manual also has recommended fliuids and lubricants as well as filter part numbers. check it out. your owners manual is a wealth of information. Too bad very few people read them.

If you have the G-80 Locker, suggest you change the fluid after 500+ miles to get all that break in crud out of there to extend the life of the rear gears and the locker clutches. Some don't like to use the GM grape juice fluid due to the cost, but to avoid any warranty issues I would suggest you "pay the piper" at least the first time you do the change before you go to the other brands. The GM stuff has special additives for the clutches in the rear locker and why risk a warranty dispute for using the wrong stuff just to save a few dollars a bottle on somehting you are only going to change once or twice in the life of your truck.

The important thing is to change it soon (500+ miles) as most of the wear will come from those break in partcles floating around in the early miles.

You will understand this better when you change it and put some of the old stuff on your fingers and rub it between your fingers, have a band aid handly LOL

You can take this or leave it, but better safe than sorry in my book. The cost of the grape juice and the early fluid change is a lot cheaper than an out of warranty repair later to the rear gears and clutches.

JMHO

If you have the G-80 Locker, suggest you change the fluid after 500+ miles to get all that break in crud out of there to extend the life of the rear gears and the locker clutches. Some don't like to use the GM grape juice fluid due to the cost, but to avoid any warranty issues I would suggest you "pay the piper" at least the first time you do the change before you go to the other brands. The GM stuff has special additives for the clutches in the rear locker and why risk a warranty dispute for using the wrong stuff just to save a few dollars a bottle on somehting you are only going to change once or twice in the life of your truck.

The important thing is to change it soon (500+ miles) as most of the wear will come from those break in partcles floating around in the early miles.

You will understand this better when you change it and put some of the old stuff on your fingers and rub it between your fingers, have a band aid handly LOL

You can take this or leave it, but better safe than sorry in my book. The cost of the grape juice and the early fluid change is a lot cheaper than an out of warranty repair later to the rear gears and clutches.

JMHO

With a 5 year and 100,000 warranty, I'll let the GM worry about the small stuff floating around in the rear end.