Well I decided to change my fuel filters yesterday. Took out the liner and drained the fuel, changed the factory filter and then it came to my Mega filter. I put a rubber strap wrench on it and stretched like a rubber band. Next I went to a nylon strap wrench and it just dented the can. Then I tried both at the same time and a large dose of cussing, no help. Then I drilled a hole in the filter and stuck a large screw driver thru it and gave it a twist. Well all that did was tear the filter in half. I did a lot more cussing and finally decided the only way to get this SOB off was to take out the entire assembly and put it in a vice. Well I finally removed the old filter and installed the new filter and reinstalled the entire system back into my truck and all is well. I do not remember installing the filter with a 6 foot filter wrench extension but I guess I must have. not to the main reason for my post, the factory filter was completely used up a 10K and the worst I have ever seen in the last five changes. The Mega post filter had about 30K on it and it wasn't very bad at all. I beleive the Mega could have gone 40 to 50K very easy. I think I will stay with 30K Mega changes for piece of mind however. I am gald it wasn't gelled up on the side of the road at -20 for this experiance or I would probably be dead. I did not install the new filter to tight this time so we will see if it glues itself on again in about 30K or so. Edited by: Blue Max

Thanks for the report Blue Max as I've been wondering at what interval I'll be changing my Mega.I'm thinking I'll go to 40k.


Did you see any noticeable discoloration from dirt etc?Any pics?


Sorry about the PIA removal.Hopefully the diaelectric grease I used on the gasket works as an anti sieze.


Blake

It is amazing how the fuel quality varies from place to place.


I change the factory filter every 20,000 miles + or - a few hundred, and after 3 changes, I have yet to see one used up more then 60-65%


I have a 60 series 2 micron post filter and change it every 10,000 miles, by then I am to a point where I have to bleed it in order to get the truck to start. That tells me that most of the crud is flowing right trough the factory filter, which is not good for anyone that does not have extra fuel filtration

I had the same issue when I changed my MEGA. Rubber strap went in the trash. I bought a filter wrench for large filters that uses a 1/2 drive. That way I can use my breaker bar on it. At least you know it wasn't leaking airhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif.

Hey NWDMax, I used dielectric grease on mine also and I can't say it helped any. I didn't take any pictures but the mega had a little darker color than a new one would but it was not real dirty. hdmax, I was supprised how dirty my OEM filter was also because the last few changes were at around 15K and they were only anout 50% used on the bottom of the filter. This change I had my lift pump installed and the entire filter was black. I don't think without a lift pump that the OEM filter ever gets more than 65% full after you start running your truck and that is why they never look very used up except for the bottom and the streaks where the fuel runs in from the top. Dave, when I intalled my Mega the first time it was when every one was talking about the fuel system sucking air and I did want to get it tight but not that friggin tight. I just put the new filter on hand tight and hopefully it will come off next time a little easier. With a lift pump I should have no problems sucking air and at the current time none is leaking out. Thanks for the interest and thats just a few more ideas I have to share for better or for worse.

how many fuel filters are on the stock system?Just the one big one right?

how many fuel filters are on the stock system?Just the one big one right?


Yes just one but its small compared to the Mega filter we are using.


BlueMax I have a feeling my Mega change will be like yours as I was an early "air" victim too till I added the lift pump.I snugged her down tight with a strap wrench.Oh well time will tell.I've got another 20k till I'll change it.


Blake

My question is what is the point of running the mega filter if it is not going to protect your oem filter.you are changing 3 oem filters to one mega.??If the mega filter was doing its job shouldn't it be protecting that oem filter.I've read that the oem is 5 micron and the mega is 2micron if so that mega should be spent much sooner. sounds like it is bypassing or is not a 2 micron filter

My question is what is the point of running the mega filter if it is not going to protect your oem filter.you are changing 3 oem filters to one mega.??If the mega filter was doing its job shouldn't it be protecting that oem filter.I've read that the oem is 5 micron and the mega is 2micron if so that mega should be spent much sooner. sounds like it is bypassing or is not a 2 micron filter


Compressor, the difference is in the size of the overall filter media. Hence the name "mega." Do a search on mega filter and you should find a photo somewhere (I'm at work - or I'd post it in this reply). Anyway, the actual filtering media in the OEM is about 4" tall by 4" in diameter and pleated about 1" thick. The Mega filtering media is about 14" tall by 6" in diameter and pleated about 3" thick. The OEM is 2 to 5 micron "nominal" but has shown actual test results more in the 10 to 30 micron "effective." The Mega is a for-real 2 to 5 micron effective and has the volume and capacity to go for many many more gallons and hours than the OEM.

Yes I understand about the size of the oem but my question is how is so much contaminates getting past that mega that is a true 2 micron or I would really question where he is buying his fuel.

The people that are running the MEGA have that plumbed in after the OEM filter. So, all of the fuel goes through the OEM first and then through the MEGA.

The people that are running the MEGA have that plumbed in after the OEM filter. So, all of the fuel goes through the OEM first and then through the MEGA.


Not all Mega users are plumbed post-OEM, Darin. It's optional and many do not for fear of warranty issues. I have mine post-OEM and that puts the OEM as a "roughing filter" for the Mega. Even if the Mega is pre-OEM, the OEM needs to be changed at the 10k/15k interval, once again for warranty issues. The recirculated fuel system helps put the better aftermarket filter to work cleaning the fuel in general - even if the aftermarked is pre-OEM.

Yes I understand about the size of the oem but my question is how is so much contaminates getting past that mega that is a true 2 micron ...

compressor59,

If you haven't already check out the various ISO fuel test results for the Mega Filter, Racor, CAT and OEM filters.

Fuel Test Results - pdf (http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO/OC_Dmax.pdf)

Fuel Test Results - Excel (http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO/OC_Dmax.xls)

Also see ISO Contamination Code Table (http://www.edm-mechatronics.com/iso_table.htm) for an explanation of the ISO codes.

These results were compiled from reports received from various members who took fuel samples from their supplemental filter setups (the actual fuel tests were performed by AVLube (http://avlub.com))

To date it has been shown that all the popular pre/post OEM supplemental fuel filter options - CAT, Baldwin (Mega) and Racor - have yielded excellent ISO results for 2, 5 and 15 micron particle counts. The best performance measured to date in the 2 micron range is for a_bear's post OEM Mega filter with an ISO value of 12. (best values are highlighted in yellow in the fuel test tables)

For more background on these tests search the forum for "fuel test results".

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Edited by: jbplock

Thats interesting info but I don't understand why would you plumb a mega filter in after the smaller(too small ) OEM filter instead of before it and protecting the OEM

Logically it makes more sense to filter out the bigger particles first and then catch the smaller ones. Hence the post OEM Mega installations. This of course leaves media size and filter life out of the concept, as the smaller OEM has to be changed much more often than the much larger Mega. Could there be warranty issues with this type of installation? Maybe, but it depends on your dealer and their stance on what the fuel last passed thru before heading to the injectors and alteration of the fuel system.


The idea of pre-OEM with the finer filter first would lead one to the conclusion that the OEM should need to be changed less often as the filter before it is capturing both the larger and smaller particles. Could there be warranty issues with this type of installation? Maybe, but it depends on your dealer and their stance on altering the fuel system.


Both ways have their advantages and disadvantages. Either way, the goal is cleaner fuel which both have been shown to accomplish. The OEM filter life doesn't seem to be a serious concern in either installation.

I got a twin pack of Craftsman strap wrenches. The smaller of the two would be best utilized as a slingshot. The larger one works VERY well with little or no stretch. Just have to keep the strap and canister clean and dry.





The size of the Mega allows LONG service intervals, but I'd suggest a periodic sampling from the drain to see what kind of crud is present. Water accumulation is my major concern as I don't trust the OE unit to catch it...

My strap wrench was the large Craftsman and it was a slingshot also. I didn't tighten my filter as tight this time so I hope next time will be easier. Of the 30K on my mega I ran FPPF for 20K and RotillaDFA for 10K and I had not one speck of rust or water. I still feel better with 2 filters than one.

Compressor59,
The reason most of us run an aftermarket filter is to better protect the fuel pump and the fuel injectors...it is not to protect the oem filter.

Placing the filter Post-oem protects the vitals from any trash that may come from the oem filter. There has been quite a few "new" oem filters with rust in them.

Placing the filter Pre-oem protects the vitals from any trash in fuel, it also helps to protect the oem filter as well.

Suggestion....

Wrap a piece of fine sand paper around the filter, grit facing filter. Put the strap around that.

Call me in the morning

Unless the rubber strap is 1" thick and 2" wide they will not take any real force. I had no problems with slipping they are just to flimzy to be worth a $hit.

I clean the rubber strap and filter with a little brake cleaner to get a good grip. When that doesn't work I use a vise grip chain wrench.


http://www.toolking.com/images/products/SmallVg20R.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Thats interesting info but I don't understand why would you plumb a mega filter in after the smaller(too small ) OEM filter instead of before it and protecting the OEM


Good point.
<DIV>


To me the problem with the OE Racor is it has a finer Pre filter rating then desired.


So a Aft final filter is just catching what maybe missed. Not a bad idea just would be nice if the OE Racor could catch 10 UM up.


Cost wise, changing two/three Racor to one BIG final filter is most probable.


Mac </DIV>

I've got an aluminum handled strap wrench by Lisle or ? and it should do the job.........


I'll find out next year.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


JK I'm going for the 40k change!


Blake