CDR\PCV - what’s it all about, Alfalfa? [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: CDR\PCV - what’s it all about, Alfalfa?


gmctd
07-17-2004, 10:56 AM
The CDR cannister, affectionately known as the "tuna can", is a Positive Crankcase Ventilation system for Diesels.


It provides regulated low-vacuum, about 1" at idle to 4 to 6 inches WC at full load, from the engine air intake path to remove blow-by gases from the crankcase, and prevent oil leaks.


The PCV valve is designed for engines with a throttle plate across the air inlet path, which causes high vacuum in the intake manifold. High at idle, vacuum will decrease under load, as the throttle is opened, but will greatly increase during vehicle deceleration, when the throttle plate is closed.


The PCV device is a small two-level valve, for both normal and deceleration vacuum levels, and is part of a fresh-air ventilation system. It usually contains a spring tailored to engine size to ensure shuttle valve closure, which works in conjunction with shuttle weight against gravity.


The system must be ported to fresh air because valve guide and piston ring blow-by are not (hopefully) higher than vacuum demand, typically 20" at idle, which would draw air, dirt, water,oil, etc, thru the various engine seals without the filtered fresh air source in the air filter housing.


The Diesel engine, on the other hand, generates vacuum under opposite conditions - almost none at idle, more as engine speed increases. Diesels have no throttle plate to restrict intake air flow.


Diesel vacuum is caused by the slight restrictions presented by the air filter and intake path ducting.


A turbocharger increases available vacuum even more, as the compressor draws more air to the inlet under engine load, to produce Boost.


Dirty air filter restriction will increase inlet vacuum in turbo and intake vacuum in non-turbo engines.


The CDR is specifically calibrated for turbo or non-turbo engines, with normal filter deterioration from dirt and dust factored in.


With no great levels of vacuum to draw-thru the crankcase, no fresh air source is needed - it is a closed-crankcase system.


Normal blow-by is low, so vacuum must be regulated such that air is not drawn into the engine thru various seals - crankshaft, valve-stem, oil filler and dipstick tubes. The crankshaft seals assume greatest importance because of location down low in road draft area.


The CDR, Crankcase Depression Regulator, is designed to function with low-level vacuum. The tuna-can size is to accomodate the large silicone rubber\synthetic diaphragm. Vacuum on the diaphragm actuates the valve against a low-pressure spring, calibrated for turbo or non-turbo applications, which also functions to ensure that the valve opens as vacuum decreases.


Fully open at idle, it will begin to close as power demand and vacuum increases, regulating the 'depression' in the crankcase such that excessive oil is not drawn out of the engine, and blow-by pressure in the crankcase does not increase.


It is not a one-way valve, but closure is toward the vacuum source. It opens under crancase 'back-fire' conditions, and would become a 'no-way' valve if the diaphragm ruptured, allowing excessive vacuum to develop in the crankcase.


Because blow-by vapor is drawn into the turbo inlet, oil will accumulate in the inlet area, but is not cause for concern unless the quantity approaches a quart a month. Excess vapor from worn piston rings can cause engine surging, as vapor is drawn into cylinder and ignited along with injected fuel, which is a light oil.


Non-Diesel oils vaporize more easily due to higher pressures and temperatures encountered in Diesel service, particularly those in the turbocharger housing.

<><><><><><><><><>CDR TESTING<><><><><><><><><>

CDR testing can be accomplished with 4' section of clear plastic tubing, sized to fit the dipstick tube, ~3/8".


Form a 3" U-bend , with 12" vertical columns. This could be attached to a piece of 1 x 6 with large u-staples, parallel-spaced at one inch intervals for indication of measurement.


Important - do not crush or deform the plastic tubing.

Place the free end over the dipstick tube, ensuring tight fit, with no leak-by. Position the manometer vertically, where the upper end of the U is lower than the end over the dipstick tube.

Note: this is to prevent water siphoning into the oil pan thru the dipstick tube.

Pour colored water into the U section such that about 6 " of water is in each leg, about 4 - 6" below the top of the open end.
Have someone start the engine, bring the rpm up to about 2000, keeping close watch on the water level in the U-tube. If the water in the dipstick leg rises an inch, the water in the open leg will drop an equal amount. Adding the drop level to the rise level, this would indicate vacuum at two inches on the Water Column.

Vacuum at idle should be around 1", depending on air filter restriction; at 2000 rpm, the CDR should limit vacuum to 4 - 6" WC on a calibrated Manometer. The shade-tree version should indicate close to those figures, depending on accuracy of staple intervals.

If the level in the dipstick leg drops, and the open leg level rises, this indicates the crankcase is slightly pressurized.

27" WC is equal to 1 PSI (Pound per Square Inch) 1psi is equal to 2" mercury
Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi, or 29" mercury, or 396" WC, rounding off

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

The CDR should never be solvent-cleaned, as various solvents can dissolve the diaphragm, again resulting in a 'no-way' valve.

Some truck manuals indicate replacment at 30,000 miles. This refers to the early style CDR and oil-cap breather system, used up through mid-'80s. By '88 - '89, the CDR system had been revised to its present configuration, where the CDR cannister is on the passenger-side valve cover, with one external connecting hose to the intake system.

Early failure-prone systems can be easily upgraded to the late setup - 1 valve cover with grommet seal, 1 CDR, 1 hose.

Replace the CDR in the late systems when it fails the Manometer water column test.

Carey Weber
08-18-2004, 03:50 PM
GMCTD where do you stand on the CDR elimination for a breather?

Billman
08-18-2004, 04:13 PM
JD


4-6 inches WC is equivalent to how much in hg?


~.5?


I'd be happy with 4-6 in hg in my crankcase? Wouldn't I?


Sounds like a breather will allow this where a CDR will limit me far below what I am trying to achieve.

SuperTuscan
08-18-2004, 06:00 PM
Roughly how many miles between replacement (on average)?

gmctd
08-18-2004, 11:28 PM
No, Billman, because 4-6"hg would enable raw oil from valve splash to blow thru the valve cover opening - it's not baffled. Maybe thru the oil filler tube, who knows.


Not trying to be antagonistic here, but what you're proposing - hi vac on the crankcase - works for what? 500-600hp, 7000-8000 rpm?


How will it help my engine at the 2180rpm I use for cruising, towing, hauling.


Oem 4-6"wc limitation would tend to indicate that not quite as much blowby exists as some folks are imagining - perhaps a lot of what is seen as blowby is simply hot oil vapors from the turbo and the indirect injection head configuration.


What do you think?

Billman
08-19-2004, 08:14 AM
I THINK vacuum in the crankcase, no matter what the rpm, will help/create power.


Yes. What I propose comes from experience in Gas Race Engines making 6-800 Horesepower turning 7-8000 RPM. We pull vacuum from one valve cover, with no baffle, and measure vacuum at the other valve cover, to include the complete crankcase. Oil consumption through the vacuum pump is not a concern. After 7-8 passes, 1 ounce is visible in the puke tank. This would be a concern in a Turbo Diesel traveling across the country though.


High vacuum is 15-18 inhg. What I would like to see here is roughly 5 inhg. I THINK that would be beneficial.





And for God's Sake, Please nobody try this at home. This in UNPROVEN in our vehicles and I probably don't know what I'm talking about...

gmctd
08-19-2004, 09:02 AM
See, folks - this post is the difference between proposed R&D and wild speculation.


Proposed R&D should not cause any damage to any interested viewer's vehicle.


Proposed R&D should not discount previous R&D, nor established fact, nor repudiate the various physical laws we live with.


Love 'em, or hate 'em, we got 'em - don't break 'em.

gmctd
08-22-2004, 12:38 AM
My apologies, Carey - I completely overlooked your posted question.


The CDR system is in place and fully functional on my truck, with an extra hose clamp on the compressor duct to prevent raw coolant fan draft from entering the intake system.


To those running the dual-breather flow-thru system, or the down-tube road draft system, I strongly suggest having a certified oil analysis done each oil change.


Specifically noting any increase in silicates.

Billman
08-22-2004, 07:51 AM
JD


I'm assuming that my single breather/hose/check-valve/hose nipple Evac system was not included in your oil analysis schedule in the previous post. Your not saying that this could be better already with no testing behind it, could you?


With Road Draft & Dual Breathers, there is the possibility of increasing silicates in the oil. Pulling vacuum on the crankcase, pretty much eliminates this possibility, right?


Speaking of vacuum, while getting ready to test my Evac system, I began to think about checking vacuum at the compressor inlet. Has anyone done this? Zero would be best. I know, pressure is even better. Once I finally test my Evac, I'm also going to put on vacuum gauge in rubber elbow. I'll try Hi-flow, stock air filters along with removing top of filter box.

gmctd
08-22-2004, 05:42 PM
The CDR system is a closed system, with not much more than a baby's breath of vacuum.


If what you are trying remains a closed system, then the only difference is where the vapors wind up - in the cylinders, or in the exhaust pipe.


Silicates, by the way, are prevalent in dust and dirt.


A glance at most engine bays should be enough indication that a closed crankcase system is mo' betta.........http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

Turbine Doc
09-22-2004, 10:49 AM
Bump to top to keep alive

knkreb
04-20-2005, 07:31 AM
In checking the CDR, does your engine have to be at full operating temp to get a true reading on if your CDR is working properly or not? In my feeble mind, warm engine = less blow by.

Or does this not matter in checking CDR operation?

gmctd
04-20-2005, 08:11 AM
Good question -

Warm engine = more blowby - hot oil vaporizes easily.

But, again, purpose is not to block blowby, but to prevent pulling raw oil outta the valve cover when inlet vacuum is high, at higher rpm and\or Boost levels.

My engine easily makes 20psi at 1700rpm, loaded, which is very low inlet pressure - high vacuum - at low rpm.

High turbo temps really 'smokes' the oil, making for a lot of vapor.

However, the specific answer is - you should do the functional test at normal operating temps, but the CDR should also function at cold.

quantum mechanic
04-20-2005, 11:01 AM
What can make the oil pressure drop when engine's been running awhile? Can the turbo make the oil frothy and lighter? or is this a more ominus sign...

Diesel Grinch
04-20-2005, 11:23 AM
That sounds like radiator fluid leaking into the engine. Seen it before. What a mess.-:t

quantum mechanic
04-20-2005, 11:59 AM
No milky fluids at last oil change, I would've noticed. I was thinking a new oil filter would help, it didn't. I put on a new OPS, same reading. Now I'm wondering if the oil pump should be upgraged to a HO unit.

gmctd
04-21-2005, 08:06 AM
I just re-read the original post, to find a large portion missing, and some questions unanswered.

So - and these figures are rounded off -

Pressure - 1psi = 2"hg = 27"H2O

Vacuum - Baro = 15psia so 2"hg = 27"H2O would be 14psia

CDR regulated crankcase vacuum is 4 to 6"H2O

Cleaning is not recommended -
Some solvents can 'melt' the silicone diaphragm
Some solvents can 'harden' the diaphragm, making it inflexible.

The steel spring and inner can will rust, causing sticking\binding

Replacement is required if Manometer indicates greater than 4-6"H2O at 2000 engine rpm

knkreb
04-23-2005, 03:10 PM
Here's my pic's with my helpers on how to do test.

gmctd
04-23-2005, 05:53 PM
Then, in a word - good job!

Great pics, and even greater helper(s?).

Add the rise in the left tube to the drop in the right tube for crankcase 'depression' in inches of water.

Dirty air filtration will increase vacuum level at compressor inlet.

BTW - a sprinkle of food coloring in the H2O makes the observations a bit easier.

Just enough to color the water, without significantly increasing the specific gravity..........:cool:

knkreb
04-09-2007, 10:51 PM
Opening thread back up with some info to compare against.

CDR checkout again. This time using a Dwyer Magnahelic Model 2002. Indicates vac or pressure in inches of water column. Try these numbers:

(None of these numbers are at full operating temperature)

At idle: 0.15" WC
at 1075 RPM idle 0.65"WC
at 1360 RPM idle 1.10"WC

Sound sufficient for CDR?
CDR failure tends to go full open at make the highest level of vacuum possible correct? Just wondering how this stacks up to blowby vs. CDR.

gmctd
04-10-2007, 12:35 AM
2000rpm should be 4-6"H2O - that's where the CDR begins limiting increasing vacuum

knkreb
04-10-2007, 06:59 AM
So which is it? Bad CDR or too much blow by?

gmctd
04-10-2007, 08:40 AM
Dunno, my friend - 2000rpm is the test - requires sufficient low pressure at the compressor inlet to gage the test

knkreb
04-10-2007, 05:16 PM
Roger wilco... will recheck.

knkreb
04-10-2007, 07:50 PM
Okay, did a road test... with higher range magnahelic gauge (0-15") instead of (0-2") ran line off of oil dip stick up through the door and set gauge on windshield.

At idle
< .5" WC

Depending upon accelleration would average 3". Would spike to 5-6", then snap back to 3". Looks like the CDR is working almost as it should. It just doesn't have enough pressure drop across the air filter to generate any higher vacuum level.

gmctd
04-10-2007, 07:55 PM
Lookin' good.............

Do like them magnehelics.

turbovanman
04-23-2007, 09:10 PM
Can you use a vacuum/pressure guage instead of a manometer?

I see you say to upgrade to the newer style, why? what year does the newer style start?

I have 60,000 miles on mine and its never been changed, I can guarantee that, I guess its time to change it.

gmctd
04-23-2007, 10:05 PM
Sure - if you can find one calibrated in 0-10"H2O - normally, they're cal'ed in 0-30"HG which is 405"H2O - you're lookin' fer 0-6"H2O

Or you can find a magnehelic, which is cal'ed in "H2O - 27"H2O = 2"HG = 1psi

Cheaper to stick a tube in a bucketo'water, I suspect.

turbovanman
04-24-2007, 12:13 AM
Ok, thanks. What about updating the CDR?

gmctd
04-24-2007, 12:34 AM
Later versions on valve cover are simpler, but the 2007 turbo engines went back to the early style - to the oil fill tube - to prevent raw oil being pulled thru the valve cover at hi-cfm\Boost levels.

However, like the lazy surgeon sez - suitcher self..............

Manuel B
04-24-2007, 03:22 PM
I was at the GM dealer this morning and they needed the VIN from my '94 Blazer because the books showed two different CDR versions for the Blazer depending on if it was an "H" "S" or "P" engine mine was an "S", I'm new at this so I have NO clue what this all means or if it's true, But the GM part # was CV196 at $53.00, NAPA needed 4 days to get it in, GM will have it in the morning.
Manuel

turbovanman
04-24-2007, 04:35 PM
I was at the GM dealer this morning and they needed the VIN from my '94 Blazer because the books showed two different CDR versions for the Blazer depending on if it was an "H" "S" or "P" engine mine was an "S", I'm new at this so I have NO clue what this all means or if it's true, But the GM part # was CV196 at $53.00, NAPA needed 4 days to get it in, GM will have it in the morning.
Manuel


Turbo and non-Turbo. Engine code is 8 digit on the Vin, when looking from the left. If still unsure, give them the Vin and they can tell you.

gmctd
04-24-2007, 05:10 PM
Do the tube-in-a-jar method - should pull the water up no more than 4-6" at 2000rpm - CDR passes.

If it's blowing bubbles, call your kids and show them what a neat trick dad's truck can do..................

CDR still passes.

Manuel B
04-24-2007, 05:44 PM
The Heath folks told me to test the amount of blow-by before ordering their chip and TM due to my 244,600 miles, I ran a tube into a jar on the ground, it didn't suck water up, and didn't blow bubbles either,?, but I didn't know about trying it at 2,000 rpm until I read it here, or starting it up AFTER it was all hooked up so I didn't have a starting point for referance, BUT my turbo outlet union is oily black, they said that was another sign of a bad CDR, I'll try it again tomorrow with the new CDR and follow the directions I read here.

GM was only searching for the 6.5TD blazer 1994, they said two of the engines used the same CDR, and the third used the other one. Again I'm just repeating what I was told, I bought my truck early January, everything is still about as clear to me as string theory.
Manuel