: what if there is no error code flashing at all(with jumper in)
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 06:06 PM okay im new, and ive read everything i can but im still confused, i bought a 94 2500 6.5 hd turbo, and it ran home then when the old owner tried to start it the next morning it cranks fine but wont start, i first tried to jump the paperclip trick, and when i turn on the key nothing unusual happens, the service throttle light goes out, and i dont see a light that says service engine soon, is their supposed to be one? (maybe the bulb is out?) anywhoo no codes, no 12 or nothing?
Any ideas????:help:
quantum mechanic 11-18-2006, 06:18 PM zee bulb is likly out, sir.
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 06:20 PM okay ill go out and check that one, thanks, wasnt sure if mabe the ecm was bad or it a wiring problem...
quantum mechanic 11-18-2006, 06:25 PM If you're getting any lights on the dash the ignition circuit is being powereed. I think it takes a small torx to get the dash off.
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 07:04 PM yup some brilliant person took the service engine light bulb out, i out it back and just got 12 over and over, so next i jumped the oil pressure thingy and the lift pump kicked on, so i guess i check the fuel up to the injection pump and make sure its getting fuel? is there a way to check the pmd?
gmctd 11-18-2006, 07:04 PM If you're not seeing the WAIT TO START and WATER IN FUEL indicators and hearing the glow controller click, the IGN switch is probably failing\failed
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 07:05 PM hmm okay ill check those bulbs, a couple are missing...ill be right back
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 07:06 PM the glow plug light does come on for a bit then it goes out like i would think it should, not sure exactly how long but 10-20 seconds or so
gmctd 11-18-2006, 07:39 PM That's good, duration depends on ECT and ambient temps.
Now try that again, and carefully touch each glowplug, see if each is warm,
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 07:57 PM nope they are cold, they are also looking rusty and old, one even had the spade broken and the wire was hanging loose, they dont seem to be getting any voltage, should they get 12volts during that warm up period (when the glow plug light is on) something sounds like like it clicks on and off when the light goes out, any ideas
By the way thanks, im at a hotel 400 miles from home trying to work this out, the heavy tow dolly that i got to tow this home isnt really as stong as its rated!
quantum mechanic 11-18-2006, 08:18 PM Are you getting 12v to each glow or are the glows themselves dead? you should be able to pickup ac60's for $8 each.
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 08:26 PM no voltage at the plugs or at the relay, im reading posts about the relay, but the two large leads, one goes out to the plugs and the other should have 12v constant supply right? then the small wires trigger the relay?
quantum mechanic 11-18-2006, 08:40 PM That's pretty much right. Those GP controllers are $$$ at $140 or so each. It should have 12v present at all times on one side and power the otherside when the IGN (pink/blk wire) powers on.
I switched out my stock GP controllers for $6 ford starter solenoids and use a momentary on the IGN circuit to the solenoid to complete the circuit.
gmctd 11-18-2006, 10:11 PM The large black wire on the passenger-side of the gp controller is power - always +12v
The two smaller wires on the driver-side feed the gp's when the controller is on during WAIT TO START
Gp's will only have +12v power when the controller is on
Replace the glow plugs, install terminals on the wires with no terminals
4 on the driver's-side are easy, one or two on passenger-side are easy
5 or 6 new gp's should get it started - do the others when you get home.
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 10:20 PM did that still no go, i jumpered the lift pump, and its getting fuel to the injection pump, i loosened one of the fuel lines at a injector, with the lift pump on and cranking over the engine, with the nut off the injector, nothing comes out of the line, is the pump toast?
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 10:52 PM if it is the injector pump, any ideas what a shop should be charging for labor?
gmctd 11-18-2006, 10:54 PM Pull the plug to the ESO - two black wires from the vertical solenoid on top of the IP - turn on the key, then plug it back in - the solenoid should click each time you unplug\plug the connector
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 10:58 PM ill check it right now, be right back...
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 11:12 PM wow thats not fun, hard to get to... it does click softly when it connects..i guess the solenoids works
gmctd 11-18-2006, 11:27 PM I think it should click louder than softly, but...........
Take that DIESEL POWER cover off for easier access
Unscrew the ESO about couple turns, plug it in, key on, jumper the lift pump, check that fuel flows out around the threads.
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 11:36 PM the cover is long gone, but the connector is buried under the intake, ill go loosen it and check the fuel
neepsjeeps 11-18-2006, 11:49 PM okay when i loosened it fuel came out, and with the lift pump on and the ignition at run the solenoid leaks fuel, but not much, it doesnt seem like there is much pressure, and the lift pump seems noisy, almost a knocking sound that quiets down as it builds head, is that normal?
thank you for taking the time to help us out, i really appreciate everything!
gmctd 11-19-2006, 12:05 AM No worries, mate - that's what this forum is all about.
Well, that and delivering corny humor to a captive audience.
Yes - lp buzz quietens as head builds to ~4-6psi..
Next step is to check for any stored DTC's - short pins A and B in the ALDL connector, then key on, count the number of times the SES indicator flashes
Blink, pause, blink, blink is 12, which indicates things are functional.
It flashes each code three times, pauses, then flashes the next code three times, and so on.
If it flashes 12 repeatedly, no codes have been stored - which may be bad, in this case.
Pins A and B are the last two pins on the top row right.
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 12:22 AM it only posts 12 over and over
gmctd 11-19-2006, 12:34 AM Ok - just a last desperate attempt, anyway - now, time to try another FSD module.
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 12:39 AM the previous owner said they tried another pmd, the one in there is only two years old?
qwomack 11-19-2006, 12:50 AM Where is it located? If anywhere in the engine bay, its useful life is long gone.
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 12:53 AM yes it is in the stock spot, i dont have another one to try it with, will any one from a 6.5 td with electronic pump work? maybe i could get one at a wrecking yard tommmorrow and try it, i know its a long shot but it beats sitting here waiting.
can i get a pmd at any auto parts shops? or just a specialty shop?
qwomack 11-19-2006, 12:55 AM I believe any PMD/FSD will work. Where are you located. Maybe just by chance someone reading this will be in your vicinity and be able to help you.
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 12:55 AM how long do injection pumps last? this motor has 179k on it and the headgaskets have been changed and the pmd has been changed, both about two years ago,
Im outside Fort Wayne Indiana, we are from Nashville
qwomack 11-19-2006, 01:00 AM I have heard of IPs lasting 250K or better.
I know a lot of us (me included) carry spare PMDs in our glove box for emergencies. If you were anywhere near me, I would be more than happy to drive out and try my 2 spares. Hopefully someone reading or tracking this thread would be able or know of someone able to help.
qwomack 11-19-2006, 01:01 AM BTW, from what I have been reading, I really think you have a bad PMD. GMCTD is great for troubleshooting and he has walked you through all the good diagnotic check points.
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 01:05 AM yes he is great , im really amazed at how great of a forum i have found, i have been a member of numerous forums and this one is by far the nicest and most helpful of any of them, keep up the great work..
and im just trying anything i hate to spend tons at a unknown shop, unless i really have to..
gmctd 11-19-2006, 01:08 AM Any GOOD FSD will work - btw, how's the fuel in the tank - old, new, dunno?
qwomack 11-19-2006, 01:09 AM and im just trying anything i hate to spend tons at a unknown shop, unless i really have to..
I know what you mean about trusting shops. Even though you have had a rocky start on the 6.5's, they really are good engines once you figure out the nuances and quirks.
Anyways, good luck and keep us posted on how everything goes.
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 01:14 AM i would guess the fuel is okay, the truck was running until one month ago, story goes drove home at night, next morning the truck wouldnt start
seems like a injection pump would have issues and not just die one day when shut off? the brother of the people delling the truck told me he thought it was a ip because he had plugged in a spare pmd he had and it mad no difference, but of course i have no idea if he did plug one in or if it was good or not.
ill have to try to hunt one down and figure it out...
qwomack 11-19-2006, 01:15 AM Any GOOD FSD will work - btw, how's the fuel in the tank - old, new, dunno?
Good call on emphasizing "GOOD".
gmctd 11-19-2006, 01:49 AM No DTC's for the FSD, so no DTC's stored sorta eliminate everything else, for which there are codes.
Could also be faulty connections in the engine harnesses - daylite will be a better time to look for that.
Could be a resistive ECMB fuse or FSOL fuse
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 01:28 PM where would i find those fuses? i looked at the plugs at the rear of the motor and they are clean , the grounds on the heads look dirty but okay, also the very nice owner of the Fort Wayne Diesel service hooked me up with a new PMD today, sadly no help, with a fuel line completely loose froma injector nothing is coming out...
also this pump has been rebuilt at sometime but not sure by who and how long ago, but the case is sealed with red paint, which ive been told is not factory
qwomack 11-19-2006, 01:36 PM There should be a fuse box under the hood, drivers side between the master cylinder and fender.
qwomack 11-19-2006, 01:38 PM Just as an FYI for me, do you see a black ground wire attached to the top of the Injection Pump (IP)? And take a quick look to make sure all the connections are made at the IP. There are several, so look good.
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 01:38 PM Okay ill check that one out...
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 01:49 PM hmmm nope no fuse box anywhere in the engine compartment
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 01:49 PM yes there is a black wire from the pmd to the ip...
qwomack 11-19-2006, 01:50 PM That's where it is on mine (1998). Do you have an owner's manual. You are looking for the relay center.
CanadianRigger 11-19-2006, 02:11 PM 94 fuses should be located right about your left knee when sitting in the seat, cover just pops off.
neepsjeeps 11-19-2006, 04:48 PM i checked those fuses
all are good and clean
neepsjeeps 11-20-2006, 10:59 PM okay this morning I took it to the closest shop, they had been working on this truck for the last 6 years, ip wa replaced 11k ago, they diagnosed the problem immediately, they guessed it was the crank sensor, which ,didnt come up with a code but when they hooked up the snap on scanner and cranked it they could see that the crank sensor was bad, they said that causes this problem alot on these trucks at this age.
thanks to all in this forum for your patience and time you spent helping and thanks to the two shops in the Fort Wayne Indiana area for their help
Fort Wayne Diesel Service, the owner went to his shop on sunday and opened to get a new PMD to try, thank you!!
and the guys at Craigsville Diesel Service, thanks for fixing it and giving me the complete run down on my truck and all the service records for it!
I hope someday soon to be able to help some other newbie and "continue the tradition"
thanks again and you guys rock:ro)
Grand Pop 11-22-2006, 07:47 AM To all you Posters:
WOW...what a great job of trying to help!!!!!
Hats off to GMCTD, and qwomack.
Happy Thanksgiving.
Grand Pop
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