Well, here is a short description with pictures of my pyro gauge install. This is install was done “a la Hoot” with a few variations. I would like to thank hoot for supplying pics and descriptions on his webpage that helped me with my install.

**Note: I did not install my gauge in an “a” pillar pod on the driver’s side. I instead opted to use the empty space below the radio.

Here goes:

I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold “a la hoot”. I used a 5/16 drill bit and a 1/8 npt tap. The metal is very soft a getting the tap to take without stripping is a little tedious. Not bad, just don’t get in a hurry. I did have the engine running for the drilling, but turned it off to do the tapping (just a little too hot for me).

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL103/634098/1742611/35562522.jpg

Here is a pic looking down from the top.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL103/634098/1742611/35562541.jpg

Next, I routed the wiring into the cab. I did not feel comfortable with drilling into the firewall (a/c stuff in there), plus I did not feel like taking the a/c ducting out. You may choose to do it how you like, however this is what I did.

I routed the wiring between the second battery and firewall, then between the passenger side fender and cab. Make sure you tape the wires to keep them from being scarred. Next, I removed the rubber grommet/housing that contains the door wiring. I cut a hole in the corrugated section and routed the wiring through it. Remove the inside plastic kick panel (has two snap holders, just gently grab and pull). I then pushed the wiring through the hole inside the cab. Replace the rubber grommet onto the white plastic catch (this might take a few minutes, make sure you line up the “tabs”). When you are through, use some silicon caulk on the hole you made for the wiring in the grommet.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL103/634098/1742611/35562561.jpg

I then routed the wiring behind the black kick panel under the dash. Just pull it out enough to make room and tuck the wiring behind it. I decided to mount my gauge in the empty spot under the radio in the dash. To do this, I removed the instrument panel so that I could remove the pocket. I drilled a 1” hole in the side of the pocket to route my wiring through. I used a piece of ¼” oak plywood to make holder for the gauge. You have many choices in mounting the gauge to the pocket, so choose one that works for you. I used a piece of scrap wire to route through the pocket hole, behind the console, and come out under the dash. I taped the scrap wire to the pyro wiring and then gently pulled it up through the pocket. You may need to open the glove compartment and stick your hand through the hole on the left side to help ease the wiring along.

<img onMouseOver="this.style.cursor='hand'" onMouseOut="this.style.cursor=''" alt='Click on image to open in new window' onClick="window.open('http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL103/634

Nice job !!!!


Great pictorial ..... That will help many members here and to come .....


Thanks for taking the time and sharing your experience ...


Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif

Nice job cdhd2001!

There are some alternatives to your wire routing. I was curious why you chose that location through the door jam. Many of us opened up a hole in the pre-stamped flat area on the drivers side firewall.....

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/5B6_wire.jpg

I ran my wires accross the top of the firewall then down through that hole.

Do you remember which wire you used for the gauge light?

It's been a long time since my truck was that clean. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

hoot

It maybe a little late now but Autometer makes gauge rings that makes the gauge mount on an angle. In that location if you angle the gauge face toward you it might improve the visability.


Look here:http://tinyurl.com/qmnmEdited by: FirstDiesel

hoot &amp; FirstDiesel,


Thanks for the wire routing point, &amp; angled mount. I'm getting ready to add gauges and its nice to have this intelligence in advance!


2DAMAX

Hoot, thanks bud! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Hug.gif

The location that Hoot shows in his picture would be great if it could be used. My 2003 did not come with the metal firewall pre-stamped. If you look closely at the picture you can tell that the metal is not stamped.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL103/634098/1742611/35631460.jpg

I did not want to chance drilling in that area since I did not know what was behind it. I also chose to mount my gauge below the stereo. The length of wire provided in my Autometer gauge was not long enough to go across the firewall, through the main wire boot (OEM, not Hoot’s stamped location), then back to the console area. I also felt that wiring through the door jam was a little more “concealed” and was less prone to heat damage from being to close to the turbo housing.

Firstdiesel, thanks for the link on the angled Autometer mount. I might try that.

Hoot, on the gauge light wire, I can give you the color based on the info in my Haynes book. The color is not correct for the 2003 model year trucks. I also wired the “ignition on” wire from the same location.

Hopefully this clears things up a bit. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif