I got the engine out of my truck (see http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114589 )

The bottom end looks really good. It looks like it would have run another 100K or better. Bearings look good and everything.

My concern is why did the block crack. The truck drove fine on my last 150 mile trip at 75mph. Then it sat for a week and when I went to start it, it would not start. I tried cycling the glow plugs and that did not help. I tried releasing the vacuum from the tank and that seamed to work although it was not instant. It started acting like it wanted to start but could not keep going. I held the starter while it was trying to start and eventually it started and idled rough for about 10 seconds and smoothed out. However it made some unusual noise at about mid RPM (probably the block cracking) then white smoke started rolling out of the pipes. I took it for a short drive and the low coolant light came on. I shut it off right away and towed it home.

So this is where I am at. I am concerned that I will crack this block or this engine will be in worse shape that my old one (not likely with only 90K).

One theory that I have thought of is that the crack in the cylinder wall has been there for a long time. It has also been running with a bad IP for a long time. When I installed the New fuel system could the added power have finished the crack?

When a truck all of a sudden is hard to start is it always either glow plugs or fuel problems i.e. air in line watter in fuel or weak IP or can it be engine failure?

Sounds like something went wrong with your cooling system... Is the radiator and everything in good shape? Had the system been flushed fairly recently?

I would be concerned with the cooling system and the oil cooler... The fuel system most likely didn't have anything to do with it.

The hard starting was probably due to water in the cylinder/possible loss of compression. The crack was probably there before you even tried to start the truck.

You will have to check out your cooling system carefully... You might want to take the radiator out and have it checked by a radiator shop (preferably a reputable one since many of them will just sell you a new one whether or not you need it). Make sure all the hoses are in good shape and not plugged. Install a new thermostat. Flush the heater core. Make sure the fan clutch is working good.

When you are done with all that, you should consider hooking up an oil cooler... Stock or aftermarket, either one is good.

this 83 engine comes with oil cooler lines that do not leak (so he says) I am going to try to hook up those.

The radiator and water pump were replaced not to long ago. I also checked the temp after a 40mi drive just before it broke and it read 195deg at the thermostat housing. oil temp in the pan was 210deg.

HS2500 do you know where I can scavenge an oil filter adapter for the 4x4. The filter needs to mount horizontal not vertical to clear the drive shaft. The Cooler lines hook up to this adapter and the threads cracked when I put a plug in it. I had a shop weld it shut to stop the leak. I might be able to drill and tap the hole out again but it would be easier to just replace it. The local junk yard does not have one he can get one but it is close to the cost of a new one.

[quote=91chevy6.2;1412687;]I got the engine out of my truck (see http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114589 )

The bottom end looks really good. It looks like it would have run another 100K or better. Bearings look good and everything.
My concern is why did the block crack.quote]

Was the crack in #8 cylinder? The later blocks are prone to cylinder wall cracking there - caused by a head-bolt stress problem.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/eml_crack.jpg

#1 cracked. I should have pictures but not till after thanksgiving.

thanks

jdemaris do you have in filter adapters?

Can't you take the filter adapter off of your old engine? Or do you want to have as little as possible to do with your old engine? ):h

Good question. :) When I plugged my old one I got it to tight and snapped the filter adapter. I then welded the hole shut. :badidea:

A member just PMd me he has one off of a 97 6.5 It should work.

Thanks