what are the larges size tires i can put on a stock d-max? and could i put the green keys in and maybe put even larger tires on? i get my tires at cost so if i could get 315 under a stock truck would be great. and also will h2 rims fit right onto the d-max or should i just get a set od stock rimms or just keep my rims and switch the tires when needing service

I had an 01 CC gasser and was able to get 295/75/16's under with aftermarket keys on stock rims. Not sure if you can fit the 315's under your truck even with keys. 315's would probably fit with tires pointed straight but you would run into clearance problems when turning. I've now got an 04 CC D/A and even with a 4 inch lift and 315/70/17's I had to trim the inner fender wells and lower spoiler abit to clear the tires when turned.


just my .02


Rich.

I got H2 take offs on mine, only mods are green keys, and alot of trimminghttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif





http://home.austin.rr.com/erisvold/images/Lifted%20truck.jpg

Do a little search on this site to see how many of us are running H2's and 315's and what had to be done to clear. It should take you a few days to read ALL the posts and wade thru all the controversy http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Cranking the torsion bars with stock keys, trimming lower air dam and/or moving the bumper forward are just some of the options if you wanna stay pretty much stock.

I have 315/75/16 MTR's with green keys. I had to move the bumber forward two inches and do alot of trimming of plastic and metal.

I have 365/65R16s on mine....

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/279_img_0192.jpg

Cut out flares are on order..

Fingers do you maily drive in a straight line?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Not sure how you even turn that with those on there like that. I can see where cut outs are a must!

You want to Turn? Why? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif

Actually, my project is to get these to fit and function without raising the truck too much. Call me foolish, but I hate the jacked up trucks. Girlfriend already complains about the truck being too high stock.

I'm willing to cut and bend so we will see. I'm gathering parts now. Hope to actually start the mods later this month.

BTW these show how tight things are up front stock.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/1BA_img_0195.jpg

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/1C6_img_0196.jpg

You have to admit, it will look great if and when I pull it off.

Those tires are way too big for a stock truck. You need to lift that thing or get some smaller tires on it quick. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

Guess I didn't answer the original poster's question... Pure stock, 285/75R16 will fit. Some people have had to adjust the plastic fender liners so they don't rub, most don't. Any bigger and you will have to tweek something. The bigger, the more tweek.

I had the same question as yamahagrizzly and was not satisfied with the 285's.

The beasts I showed on my truck are going to require sheet metal mods. The test fit, which is what the pictures are of, proved that no hard frame members need to be changed. (I don't consider the front bumper a hard frame member) Once I get all of my parts in, I'll post my progress. I have no desire or intention to lift the truck other than a crank or so on the torsion bars to level it out a bit.

Currently, I am still running stock tires/rims and height. So relax GMC2500HD.

I figured that had to be test fit pics or something. That photo looking down shows there is no way your making a turn. Good luck stuffing them in there.


It may be easier if your wheels had some more back spacing!

It would help, and hurt. These have 4-1/2". Any more and I will be getting close to the frame. Probably could have suffered another 1/2", but no more. Keep in mind these tires are ~14-1/2" wide!

Got the call today that Bushwacker does not make cut-out flares for the '03 or '04 . Bummer. Now I have to fab my own.

What do you think. Carbon fiber, vacume formed thermoplastic or steel?

Try Warn, they make fender flares also. Is the cut-out flares the same as fender flares?

Cut-out flares are Fender Flares that require you to remove some fender metal and open up the wheel well opening. Most flares are simple bolt or tape on arrangements, but not the cut-outs. I NEED to cut the wheel wells anyway to get these wheels under the fenders so the Bushwackers would have fit the bill, if they made them for my truck.

I checked Warn and they don't make anything that is going to help me.

Tires that big you don't need to turn, just drive right over the top...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


JP

I just put the Rickson 19.5" rims with 245/70 tires. They rub a bit. It is possible to go to 19.5 265, but that is about it.

Cutout flairs and a sawzall to the bumper unless you move it forward. I like your resolve, Fingers.

Carbon fiber requires vacuum and autoclave.

Vacform might be the way but you have to make the forms which is the real job. Once you do you might as well go into production!Edited by: hoot

Ordered fresh Plastilina for the model work. Don't have enough here. Have some rough sketches and templates done. I need to rig a mirror duplicator.

Guess I should fire off a fresh thread....

Carbon does not "require" vacume or autoclave. The vacume greatly improves the quality of multi-layer build-ups (no bubbles) Production shops will use vacume to pull the resin into the mold for near perfect results. The autoclave is used for several of the super high strength resins to cure them. All resins can be cured faster by applying controlled heat. Gas production can be a big problem for some resins. Not too different from baking paint on a car. I have gotten "good" results from single layer carbon applied by hand with two part resins. Nothing stuctural.

This might actually be fun! Thanks for the support hoot. It would be nice to have the option of going over objects rather than around them.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Fingers,

I'm from the aerospace where everything about carbon fiber and glass is structural and requires all those things. The fibers come pre-preg.... pre-impregnated with the resin and must be stored in a freezer or it cures slowly.

Tell me about this mirror duplicator????

Hey bro, I've got 305's on mine with no mods what so ever. I even had them on z-71's before with no mods. 305's are the ticket if you only going to running pure stock(no green keys). Now, let me ask a stupid question.....what exactly are green keys?

Frank_EP


dooley??? i been dying to see the rickson alluminum for duallies.

Now, let me ask a stupid question.....what exactly are green keys?

Actually the answer to that is stupid http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

hoot,

I'm sure you have seen the duplicators with the stylus on one arm and a router or some other cutting tool on the other. The two move in tandem to make exact copies of 3D shapes Like this (http://www.nemicmach.com/nmcsite-III/gortonduplicator.html) industrial version.

The mirror version mechanically swaps one axis which allows you to make left and right versions of parts, or in this case, molds/plugs.

I don't trust my ability to make a faithful left and right version of the flare model. Even a rough cut mirror copy would save me a lot of grief and I could finish it by hand.

I consult with a company that makes some of the robotic weaver arms for the carbon fiber build ups. They also make the water jet cutters that poke the holes and such. Neat stuff. Most of the jobs these 'bots do require the carbon fibers (usually strips) to be applied under tension. Gives the designers headaches.


Edited by: Fingers

The Largest tire you'll run stock is a 305/70R16, I know I tried many different sizes when I first got the truck. Now I run 315/75R16's but that's also with 6" lift


As for the guys who say Bushwacker doesn't make cut-outs for the 03-04's, you're wrong. I drive and '03 and I've got the cut-outs mounted on mine. Contact bushwacker direct if someone tries to tell you different.


-Zorganov

I called Bushwacker directly (1-800-234-8920). "Officially" they do not claim the cut outs will work on the '03-'04 silverado. If you got them to fit, it was without Bushwackers backing. That said, they also concede they may be workable on the '03-'04. As close to a non-answer as I've seen in a long while.

For my application I need a flare and cut out shaped similar to the red line in the photo below. The Cut-Outs from Bushwacker would be about the blue line. Yes, that's about twice as much metal to cut away.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/D5D_proposed_front.jpg

I guess I stand corrected on the Bushwacker direct. The local guy I bought mine from was unsure of fit so he called them and they told him that they would fit, I was standing right there. Strange how they'd back one person but not another.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


Looking at your pic, the cut-outs wouldn't do you any good anyway. I'm thinking you're gonna run into bigger problems if you cut that much sheet metal out of there, that means you're getting VERY close to your fire wall and you'll lose a pile of strength in your fender as well.


Best of luck though!


-Zorganov

There's no strength there.

Fingers,

I'm slighty familiar with the Cincinnati Fiber placement machines. Some use uni tape while the big one Boeing has with the big "Alien" head on it uses "tow".... spools of fiber brought together in the head and layed down in strips. I think its like 6 or 8 axis. They wind the entire V-22 Osprey Tilttrotor tail section in one piece.

They also use water jet for trimming and cutting along with a new multiaxis router for eop trimming.

For the manual layup process they use a laser gantry setup that runs off a computer. They lay a ply to a laser projected profile, hit enter and it changes the shape for the next ply. I forget what they called that. I think OLT Optical Layup Template.

What are you using to generate the curves? I spent my life on Catia. Edited by: hoot

The Bushwackers might have worked, but it is too close to call. The red line gives ~1" tire clearance based on a mock-up I did. The firewall is right there and will require shaping. The E-brake cable is there too and will have to be moved so it exits the cab at a lower point or maybe just pull it to the side.Both pains, but no real big deal.

My concern will be the hinge pillar. It is a laminated structural steel component and modification will take a fair bit of fore thought. I know that the laminations do not go all the way to the firewall, but I don't know where they start. If I mess up the pillar it will affect the door fit and function. I don't want to go there. The fender can be re-enforced without too much grief while everything is exposed.

How do you start one of the "Do It Yourself and Useful Articles" Section? Is this worth posting?

Best I can do pic wise.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/24C_DSCN4097.jpgEdited by: hoot

hoot,

Thaks for the pic. Wish you had a side view or one without the tire to confirm what I think is there.

I don't get involved in any of the Aerospace stuff. I did the field work in the Nuclear division. The company, PaR Systems, actually only made the tool carrier. I think the tool end was made by Viper? or maybe that was the name of the applicator, I don't remember. The one I saw was a gantry setup that was HUGE. The work cell was on the line of 120' long, 20' wide, and maybe 15' high. This (http://www.par.com/applications/Aerospace/Drilling,%20Trimming-Boeing%20Canada.pdf) is a link to a similar setup.

PaR uses Micorstaion internally for design though the robots interpret G and M code and interface with Catia as well as others.All good stuff. The Nuke stuff is not nearly as cutting edge.

I picked up working fiberglass in one of my former lives as a bodyman fixing, modifing and restoring cars and boats. I still do small projects.