Torsion Bar adjusting--BEWARE!! [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Torsion Bar adjusting--BEWARE!!


afp1
07-10-2004, 09:59 PM
Whoever said "experience is the best teacher" was an idiot. SOMEONE ELSES'S experience is the real "best teacher". So begins my tale. Where I will have to settle for my own experience as a teacher in this case, all the rest of you can use make use of the better teacher as I relate this.............


I have adjusted my t-bars a great deal. A very great deal. First was 1.5" of lift with Hill Country adjusters beginning in Nov '03. Then I went to 2" of lift when I changed tires and wheels last Fall. When I installed the Rancho lift kit in Mar, I messed with the t-bars again, and then again when I installed the Realift T-bar Relocators. Next, I smacked a curb head on at 20 mph avoiding a pedestrian, which ruined a t-bar and a relocator. The re-install of the new relocators generated more t-bar adjustments.


After all this adjusting, the lock feature of the cross piece threads were gone. No big deal, as the force of the adjuster on the bolt keeps it from moving.


However, it as a big deal that I was getting lazy when adjusting to t-bars. The proper way is to jack up the nose of the truck, then install either a t-bar unloading tool or a good 8" gear gear puller, and relieve the pressure on the adjuster bolt before turning it. The service manual itself says to do it this way (with the t-bar unloading tool.)


I had fallen into the habit of just cranking on the adjuster without unloading. My solution if the bolt was getting hard to turn was to get out the breaker bar, and maybe squirt some penetrating oil on the threads. This is a STUPID thing to do.


I had noticed the left bolt was getting difficult to adjust, and an occasional circular metal shaving was coming off. This is such a huge warning signal to miss it is pure buffoonery. What was obviously happening is pieces of bolt thread were coming off.


Yesterday I installed some 1" blocks in the rear of the truck, bring the total rear lift up to 3.5". I decided to fine tune the front suspension while I was at it--the left side was 1/8" low, meaning it would need about 1/2 - 1 turn.


I couldn't turn it with the 1/2" ratchet, so I grabbed the breaker bar. I knew I was pushing things a bit, but after all I had done this a hundred times already, and I only needed 1/2 to 1 turn. Because it was so hard to turn, I positioned myself more directly underneath the adjuster bolt than I normally do to get more leverage. Did I mention how STUPID this is?


I got about a 1/4 turn, and really laid on the torque. All of a sudden something whacked me very hard in the fore head just above my right eye. It knocked my glasses out of position. I was dripping blood. I knew the blow was hard enough to cause more than just a scratch.


After I got the bleeding pretty much stopped--which wasn't hard--I looked back under the truck to see what happened. The adjuster bolt was stripped of threads in it's middle. What happened is the bolt had stripped, and being under full load of the t-bar, the adjuster slammed the bolt through the cross piece threads until the end of the bolt was flush with the top side of the cross piece. Since the socket was on the bolt the socket was forcefully slammed as well, and the end result was the breaker bar was forcefully slammed into my fore head.


My wife made me go to the ER. At first, the wound looked like it was staying closed, but when I opened it up for her to look she said it was deep. It eventually swelled and opened up on it's own. It took 5 stitches. The worst thing was not the stitching, the the 5 hour wait as they sewed up a couple guys who had been in a knife fight.


Today I ordered a new pair of cross pieces and bolts. Cost was around $35.&nbs

SteveNorCal
07-10-2004, 10:24 PM
Man, I'm sure you must realize how "lucky" you are. You could have lost an eye or something even worse!! Very good of you to post this for all of us. Wow.....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Shocked.gif

motocopter
07-10-2004, 11:05 PM
Glad you weren't seriously injured. Be careful.

baimpala
07-10-2004, 11:31 PM
It takes a big man to tell a story like that. I've got a few, and I ain't no little guy. Never had to get stitches, though. Glad you were okay and didn't push the thing off of jackstands onto yourself or something worse. Happy healing.


Dennis

StraitDiesel
07-11-2004, 01:13 AM
I ran into this problem the first time I ever adjusted my t-bars... I jacked it up and everything, just didn't use the unloading tool. After adjusting them, I sat in my truck and the whole left side slammed down (luckily I was in the truck and not underneath it) The adjusting bolt threads apparently shredded and the bolt holder was resting on the head of the bolt. Been there my friend! I'm sorry for the injury, hope you heal up quick!


Christmas wish list: solid front axle pllllleeeeeeaaaaaaassssseeee!


DanEdited by: StraitDiesel

chevmeister
07-11-2004, 01:19 AM
guess im lucky i turned mine up with a 3/8 rachet...... never even jacked up the truck.... dont feel bad i was just as stupid just more lucky

ShumDit
07-11-2004, 11:11 AM
Just last week, a bud was torquing his nerfs and the wrench slipped and busted him in the upper lip. Came over a day later and still mooked and moked (pi) munny. It gave me pause to look back over 50yrs of cranking wrenches. JMO, 40% of the work is keeping from getting hurt. As I get older, find myself looking over my shoulder even more as familiarity tends to lead to carelessness. Sharing experiences such as this is invaluable. Thanks for sharing Blaine

snoman
07-11-2004, 11:48 AM
I think it helps a lot if you keep bolt lubed too. When it gets dry and a little rusty and starts to bind, wiping the threads get a lot easier.

Amric
07-11-2004, 01:28 PM
Glad to see you were not injured worse. I have had good luck with Anti-sieze, but after reading this, from now on, I'm going to unload the torsen bars before any adjustments.

hdmax
07-11-2004, 08:55 PM
Well, did you learn your lesson for the day?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif Sorry you got hurt, but it sounds like you knew you were in trouble before the accident.


You need to re-word the heading! There is a big difference between adjusting the torsion bars, and going stupid and trying to get 3-4 inches from an adjustment.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

afp1
07-12-2004, 12:08 AM
Mike,


Was only looking for an 1/8" to get the left side exactly the same as the right. The Rancho kit allows 4" of lift with totally stock t-bar adjustments. My CV angles are stock, unlike those who are getting extra lift with t-bar adjustments. Actually, these are the guys I am most concerned about, because the easy (and dangerous)way is to crawl under the truck and start cranking way, even if you're only adding a turn ot two.


The stupid thing is, and always will be, making ANY adjustments without unloading the t-bar first. Like I said earlier, please learn from my experience, don't feel obligated to experience this for yourself................


Blaine

TheDuramax
07-12-2004, 12:20 AM
this may sound dumb, but how do you unload teh torsion bars besides adequetly jacking up the front end? I was planning on doing this next week, thanks for sharing the word of caution.

afp1
07-12-2004, 12:37 AM
I am obviously leery of doing it any other way. There is a potential problem with unloading the t-bar with the t-bar unloading tool/8" gear puller without jacking the front. The t-bar unloading tool/gear puller could also strip out when it's holding the full weight of the truck, and you could still get hurt.


You do not have to lift the tires completely off the ground to significantly reduce the load on the t-bars. The tire jack might even work.


You can easily tell. If the unloading tool/gear puller becomes too hard to turn, you need to unload the t-bars some more. Obviously, the threads on the tool as well as the threads on the adjuster bolt should be lubed.


If you EVER start to feel a "dry grinding" or hear a "creaking sound" as you are turning the adjuster bolt or the gear puller STOP immediately! That feel/sound is a very strong indication that you are damaging threads.


I realize many may say "What's the big deal, I have cranked the t-bars before without unloading them and never had a problem". To that, I simply answer, so did I, many times in fact...........


BlaineEdited by: afp1

bob camire
07-12-2004, 09:26 PM
good post blain, ive adjusted mine and never knew about unload..good story, glad there was a happy ending..good luck

JimWilson
07-13-2004, 01:18 PM
Man, that was quite an experience!

I've always used my floor jack on the side of the truck I was adjusting, to make certain there was no pressure on the bolt before I cranked it. I've been called anal for doing that by people on other forums, but I stuck to my guns. Sure glad I did...

ski1
07-13-2004, 11:34 PM
mot people dont want to spend the extra money on the torsion bar unloading tool, but I think it is well worth it. much more solid with more contact area than the gear puller. GM techs dont use gear pullers (at least mine), why would we ? spend the money and do it right.

big_jon00
07-14-2004, 11:40 AM
Has anyone found a good place to buy an unloading tool, and what do they run for price?


Thanks, Jon

ski1
07-15-2004, 01:44 AM
bought mine from here


the tool warehouse, $78


http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7822A.html

CalDirt
07-15-2004, 01:54 AM
I'm glad you weren't hurt worse Blaine, and I too appreciate you being so up front about your mistakes since it reminds me of the times I've gotten careless and taken the "shortcut" - this is a reality check to be sure I do it right - thanks for taking the time to post this.

afp1
07-15-2004, 08:05 PM
You know, for all the times I've adjusted my t-bars the Kent Moore tool would have been nice.

hdmax
07-15-2004, 09:58 PM
Well after 5 days you still have your wits about you, so I'd have to say you are OKhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif good luck in the future

Mackin
07-15-2004, 10:07 PM
Thanks for the heads up ,I have always done mine on the ground with a half inch ratchet but last time I did a lil tweaking I had the wheels up in the air and it was remarkable how much easier they were to turn.http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


You have ,I'm sure,saved a few guys from doing the same and needing medical attention.


Just say NO to breaker bars and impact wrenches on this !


Mac

afp1
07-17-2004, 01:16 AM
I plan to install my new bolts and crosspieces tomorrow. I will probbaly need to make a couple of minor tweaks, but I am pretty much done playing with my suspension--got it how I want it. 4" lift in fornt, 3.5" in the rear, BFG AT KOs in 295/75R16s.


BTW, I did get the stitches out today. Thannkfully threy didn't DNIF (duty not involving flying) me this last week. We are a little tight on IPs with summer leaves and what not............

hdmax
07-17-2004, 09:06 PM
afp1;


Please do me a favor some time and take measurements at the front and rear wheel well openings.


Mine are 41 1/2" in front and 43 1/2" in the rear with 285/75/16" tires on stock wheels. These measurements are from the concrete floor to the lip of the fender flare with truck setting level.


I would guess yours to be about 44 1/2" front and rear.


My truck sets right at 2" less then a 1/2 ton with 6" lift and 35" tires on 10" wheels. Or 80 1/4" over all height.Edited by: hdmax

afp1
07-18-2004, 01:09 AM
I installed the new bolts and cross pieces today. The new bolts come with some kind of lube on them. The cross pieces are not "lock washer" style. I am guessing the reason the cross pieces on our trucks seem that way is because the weight of the suspension compresses the threads a bit.


The bottom line is the bolts were extremely easy to turn. They turned easier than the gear puller I used to unload the t-bars. I think the lesson here is to make sure you always lube the bolts with a penetrating oil and let it soak in before cranking on them. That, along with unloading the suspension, should keep the threads in good shape for a long time.

afp1
07-18-2004, 01:20 AM
Mike,


You are in luck. After installing the bew bolts and crosspieces, I remeasured everything. Front fenders are: L - 43 1/4", R - 43 3/16". Rear fenders are: L - 44 11/16", R - 44 3/4". My overall height is 81 1/2".


Blaine

hdmax
07-18-2004, 01:36 PM
Mike,


You are in luck. After installing the bew bolts and crosspieces, I remeasured everything. Front fenders are: L - 43 1/4", R - 43 3/16". Rear fenders are: L - 44 11/16", R - 44 3/4". My overall height is 81 1/2".


Blaine





Thanks Blaine! Looks like I am not that far from a 4" lift with the way mine sets. (add a 1/2" for tire size and mine would be 42" front and 44" rear. Not too bad!)Edited by: hdmax

afp1
07-19-2004, 01:41 AM
Mike,


Did you get you lift by just cranking T-bars?


Blaine

Deadeye
07-23-2004, 06:21 PM
Blane;


sorry to hear about your injury. I appreciate your post. I am sure I will have to get the unloading tool once I install the T bar relocators and your thread will be a big help.

afp1
07-24-2004, 10:32 PM
Deadeye,


When you get ready to install the relocators, or even if you are going to have them installed, we need to talk. I can save lots of time and trouble on installation time. Send me a PM and I'll give you my e-mail............


Blaine

Deadeye
07-26-2004, 10:41 AM
Thanks. Will do.