Alright guys, my truck is getting a check engine light every time i goes up a hill or has a load on the hill, And i can easily move the wastegate actuator. When we checked the codes it was a 78.

My question is... does the computer know enough to know it IS the soleniod or can it still be the vac pump or wastegate actuator even?

Next question is where can i get these parts quick this week? I am going from northern ohio to VA back and forth twice this week and will have a 20ft car hauler with 70% of a jeep on it. The first trip is only going to be a lighter load with a 8-10ft box trailer and some lighter stuff.

thanks again guys!

I'm up in Streetsboro. I have a spare wastegate solenoid from my 94. Do you have good vacuum from the pump? Sometimes a little squirt of WD40 in the vacuum line will free up the solenoid, pull the hose off the wastegate and check for vacuum there, if you have vac there spray a bit of WD40 in the hose, brake cleaner might work too.
Ted

Got a gauge? Check vacuum at the pump, before the solenoid, after the solenoid, and at the WG actuator, at idle. When it disappears, you found it.

Look in the FAQ: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87432

There's a very good thread on trouble-shooting this one.

78 is for over-Boost, only - if the actuator is free, then the solenoid is sticking.

It is a dual port solenoid valve, one port open to atmosphere - the shuttle rusts\binds after long useage, so dubya dee forty'ing it is only a patch.

Spring for the 35bucks replacement, and go in peace.

Second, and more expensive, the MAP sensor may be offset, or the BARO sensor on the firewall may be offset - takes a scan to determine that.

And, no, they're not electronically identical - each is specific to PCM function.

There ya go... when the gurus get involved, the answers just pop right out.

I figured the PCM was stoopid as far as 'what' was wrong, and wouldn't know the difference between pump, solenoid, actuator or hoses.

And code 78 just says "Turbo Wastegate Solenoid Fault" in my list, and using the DTC Lookup tool. I didn't know it was over-boost only, which is sort of important, as it eliminates all lost-vaccuum conditions.

And yes, I read the FAQs first.

Thanks for the insights, gmctd.

First off thanks a million everyone,

Once we got the code i looked it up on kennedydiesel so i didn't know for sure what the code was past seeing that. The truck doesn't smoke at all, but it used to a little bit when under WOT.

You can easily move the waste gate by hand, the vacum pump looks horrible but may still be working haven't gotten a chance to test the vacum yet but might be able to later today or in the morning for sure, and where can i get a soleniod locally brand new from ? If no where then "tedreminder" i might be really interested in that peice you have, and ironically we work in reminderville usually a day or two a week.

So this can be overboost even with the wastegate being able to move so freely? I had just thought that since it was so weak on most turbo stuff you need the wastegate working good to force to get boost pressure up.. but then again everything i've messed with to dates been gas except my dads duramax.

Also on a side note, the transmission i had built 2 weeks ago, its AWESOME, put a new seal on the shifter to get the shifter in the right spot again.. (rubber was falling apart, and just had the driveshaft compeltly redone.. truck is driving like a million bucks.. between getting clogged filters out, getting lift pump working,.. transmission rebuilt, driveshaft redone, powersteering pump working..(no sign of leaks yet...) the 2900 dollar (now 4000+ dollar) truck is really coming together.

):h

FYI - DTC78 has never been logged for low Boost, as may be noted by all the 'black smoke, no power, what's wrong' complaints, sometimes mentioning 'no DTC'.

PCM will log DTC78, try to pull Boost - if cannot reduce Boost within ~20 seconds, will pull fuel when IAT exceeds ~240deg F.

Token disclaimer: According to theory - yrmv

So i should do the solenoid first? after checking the vac?

I guess what keeps messing me up is seeing that wastegate can be moved pretty freely then thinking that its holding the pressure it to create overboost... But your theory seems sound, and the truck seemed like it could be slower today for the first time.. so something maybe going weird..

Who sells those solenoids... just tried looking again and can't seem to find anything on them at local parts stores? how much does one of these run at a dealer?


Oh and my list of crap since we've bought this truck i forgot to mention the glow plugs! We did have 9g's with 134k miles on them 2 with wires broke off and when we tested them we were only able to get 1 to even light... and only one to pass the resistance test.. lol no idea how the thing was starting.. put in the new AC 60's starts perfect.. turns over 3-6 times but no smoke, no problems etc. Also non of the 9g's stuck in and we did all 8 in about 1.5hrs.. didn't have to take the DP off or even loosen it.. with someone on the ground and a guy on top holding the wrench on we got them all out without taking anything off but one of the heat sheilds on the manifold..

I was raised in Reminderville, dad and a couple brothers live there now. Grandpa and two of his brothers were some of the first out there, named the village after them. You are more than welcome to the part I have, took it off thinking it was a problem, not 100% sure it was though.
Wastegate shaft will move easily if engine is not running but will be very stiff with engine running if everything is correct.
Ted

OK, so that's wierd.

If you can move the WG lever when the truck is idling, you CAN'T have an overboost condition. Let's think this one out...

iirc, when you have an overboost condition, the ECM reads it from the MAP sensor (in combination with the baro), and reacts by reducing the duty cycle to the WG Solenoid, right?

So - if you have an overboost condition, (and yet no boost), one has to think that the ECM is TRYING to pull back the boost level by reducing the WG Solenoid duty-cycle.

Could the problem be in the MAP or baro sensors, gmctd? If it is reading overboost condition all the time (either the MAP maxed or the baro unhooked), wouldn't that pull the boost from the WG Solenoid?

Just seems strange that he's getting both ends of the equation at the same time...

That is crazy,... we do the networks/computers and websites for the village and fire and police. What a small world.. We've come to know the place really well over the last couple years. They are actually trying to find history on the village and other items, photos etc etc to put together a history section on the website, it would be interesting if you guys had some stuff saved or anything really.

As far as the truck where did you get your replacement solenoid from ? I will check into this truck first thing in the morning and try to figure out whats going on. I guess the other thing i'm wondering is if the vac pump has to be working to create overboost seeing how the shaft isn't stuck on the wastegate. If that makes any sense to anyone lol..

Thanks again!

Because vacuum is pulse-width regulated at the WG solenoid by the PCM from input from the MAP and BARO sensors, vacuum system problems cannot cause DTC78, but can cause low Boost and black smoke symptoms.

The WG acutator is closed by varying levels of vacuum on the control side - it should move freely when no vacuum is applied, not even freely when vacuum is applied thru the WG solenoid.

When the WG is closed, exhaust gas volume spins the turbine blades - when open, that volume is bypassed thru the 'gate, so the turbine cannot develop the power to compress Baro pressure into Boost pressure.

If vacuum is low, whether from the pump or system leaks - Boost will be low, or non-existant.

Pump = 25"hg at idle

WG = 15" at idle, due to pwm of the WG solenoid

And remember - vacuum does not close the wastegate.

Baro = 15psi Vacuum = 0"hg

Baro = 0psi Vacuum = 30"hg

So - 15"hg vacuum = 7.5psi less than Baro

With 7.5psi Baro on the control side of the WG actuator diaphragm, and 15psi Baro on the opposite (work) side, thats (15psi - 7.5psi) for 7.5psi X (piRsquared X 2"wg actuator diaphragm dia) for the pressure on the work side, which is holding the wastegate closed.

That's right, folks - atmospheric pressure is the force that operates the WG actuator, holding the WG closed against exhaust pressure for your benefit.

And you thought science class was boring.............

OK, so that's wierd.

If you can move the WG lever when the truck is idling, you CAN'T have an overboost condition. Let's think this one out...

iirc, when you have an overboost condition, the ECM reads it from the MAP sensor (in combination with the baro), and reacts by reducing the duty cycle to the WG Solenoid, right?

So - if you have an overboost condition, (and yet no boost), one has to think that the ECM is TRYING to pull back the boost level by reducing the WG Solenoid duty-cycle.

Could the problem be in the MAP or baro sensors, gmctd? If it is reading overboost condition all the time (either the MAP maxed or the baro unhooked), wouldn't that pull the boost from the WG Solenoid?

Just seems strange that he's getting both ends of the equation at the same time...


EXACTLY.. see thats what i kept thinking, but i figure MAYBE the WG has to be working to open all the way to drop the boost or something crazy.. so i wasen't going to go out on the limb lol.

So i could have a computer thinking its overboosting while not actually getting any boost in the first place?.. its fast enough i don't think it could possibly be getting NO boost.. but again new to 6.5L's and not 100% what a good running 6.5L pulls like.

So where do i start in testing this thing, ? And again not to sound like i'm beating a dead horse here,.. but who sells the solenoid, WG stuff, map sensors or anything but the dealership that would be local? or should i order parts from the dealership and just suck it up. Also i think i found the VAC pump at autozone or one of them.. if that turns out to be bad should i get it there or do i need to find a certain brand?

I got the part from SS Diesel www.ssdieselsupply.com
There was a history put together a few years back by an Ohio history magazine. Our family did have some issues with it though.
Ted

I read it that the WG rod could be easily moved with engine off, meaning that it is not sticking - if stuck open = no Boost, stuck closed = full Boost, DTC78

So, yeah - replace the solenoid, first - if it's as old as the truck, it's about passed due

Problem here is everyone is cross-posting, so the responses get jumbled, out of sequence.

DTC78 results when PCM reads higher pressure from the MAP than is being demanded

FYI - gasser WG actuators are spring-loaded in the closed position - Boost pressure to the actuator diaphragm assists exhaust pressure in overcoming spring pressure, to open the WG

Didn't see your last post before i posted my last post..

So i have a couple things not agreeing here.. IF i have a low boost problem i should have black smoke, i don't have black smoke,..IF i have a overboost problem i shouldn't be able to move WG.

What should my steps be here,.. First check vac levels at everything, IF all vac is good, then assume solenoid or maybe a close second of the WG actuator..?, if solenoid is good assume baro or map is off?

I read it that the WG rod could be easily moved with engine off - stuck open = no Boost, stuck closed = full Boost, DTC78

So, yeah - replace the solenoid, first - if it's as old as the truck, it's about passed due

Problem here is everyone is cross-posting, so the responses get jumbled, out of sequence.

DTC78 results when PCM reads higher pressure from the MAP than is being demanded

Yup just happend again.. lol

So my VAC pump must be working is what your saying? I will test it either way and try like hell to find a soleniod tommorow.

thanks gmctd; I figured that was how the loop worked, but couldn't figure out how the overboost got set if the rod moved at idle.

I agree about the cross-posting, and that the solenoid is likely the issue (was just being curious to learn more), so I'll get out of the conversation. Thanks guys.

I had the same code last month. I changed the solenoid first and it seems to fix the problem. It is the easier and cheapest. The old one looks rusted. You can get the part from Kennedy or local ACDelco part store for faster service if you have one close by. The part no are GM:1997227 or Delco:214-1073.

Oh and i meant with the motor idleing i could move the WG easily

cool thats the first thing i'll try after checking vacum,.. i am guessing i have to have vacum to get a overboost but i have a funny feeling i'll be replacing the pump and the solenoid before this weeks over with.. Thanks for the part no's.

Also we got a check engine light like 2 times while driving since, when we pulled the code it just kept going..like 10-15 times.. does it repeat or does this mean the last guy just drove the crap out of it not even caring.. is the first code the most recent or the last? Now were wondering if maybe we didn't even get to the end if it just kept going for every time its had a 78.

Me again. Did you clear them all using the procedure I posted?

Clear 'em all, start ocer. Drive for a while and see what comes back.

If nothing comes back, ... you just learned something.

Codes run from the lowest number to highest. Each code will cycle three times. On my 94 I clear codes by waiting for the last code to get into it's third cycle and holding the brake while fully pressing the throttle pedal five times.
Ted

to read and clear codes for OBD-I ...

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1380656&postcount=4

awesome i will go try this later tonight and make sure i'm getting the right codes out and not throwing everyone off. We only waited long enough to see the 78 code so i supposed i could still have more.

thanks again everyone!

Check vacuum at idle

Pump is 25"

Wastegate is 15"

And, no need for anyone to 'get out of the conversation' - my comment was specific to simultaneous posting, always a problem with isp speed\bandwith, forum servers, and posting by keyboard - it's just not conversational-friendly, like cell-phones.

<breaker, breaker one-nine>
<yep, we had us a CB once, too>

:-)

if you still need the ACDelco store, check their website. There are a few of them in OH. You can call them first. I hope this help.

Ya you guys are awesome, just starting to look this stuff up a minute before bed. I am off to checking everything out in the morning.

Hey you guys another thing, i had the G80 code in the glove box and thought i have a locker.. i tried driving up a freinds drive thats on a farm with loose small wet gravel and looked like a ***... it kept getting stuck until i came up on it at a pretty good pace.. i even tried holding the brakes a little and hitting the gas like i do to load the lockers on my jeep.. and nothing...

any secrets, horror storries... rebuilds... any input on these things before i go posting a new thread.

Alright i was able to order the solenoid for 28 bucks from a local ac delco dealers its supposed to be here at 230 today. As for vacum i haven't found a gauge to test it yet... besides a spare boost / vac gauge i have from my s10 and i haven't figured any great way of sticking it in the hose lol.

I will stop by a garage or parts store and pickup another gauge.

Thanks agian, I'll let you guys know if it fixes the problem.

Any ideas on the rear axle ?

Best to start another thread on the diff, tc - no use in confusing the FAQ's committee, eh?

Alright everyone.. steps i took today

1.) Without making any changes, i checked to see if i could move the Wastegate with motor off.. easily movable

2.) started the truck, we still able to easily move it

Then i got the new AC delco solenoid, installed it

3.) tried moving wastegate with motor running, still very easy to do

4.) took off the lines running to the solenoid and as dumb as it is just put my finger on them to see if there was any vacum.. nothing.. traced the lines back to the pump and they all looked fresh and plyable... So i'm guessing my vacum pump is out.

So!.. this means i have a overboost condition, caused by a bad vacum pump?

Next question.. autozone.. vacum pump 100 bucks.. Ac delco.. 170... Is there anyreason my broke college *** shouldn't buy the 100 dollar one and save the 70 to put a muffler or a tailgate on this beast ?

And am i pretty safe to assume its the Vac pump now?

And pointers on taking the vac pump off and where you guys get to it at ? What you take off the truck to remove it ?

Alright everyone.. steps i took today


4.) took off the lines running to the solenoid and as dumb as it is just put my finger on them to see if there was any vacum.. nothing.. traced the lines back to the pump and they all looked fresh and plyable... So i'm guessing my vacum pump is out.

So!.. this means i have a overboost condition, caused by a bad vacum pump?


VERY good question, lad... now maybe it's just me, but it seems that you shouldn't have an OVERBOOST caused by having NO VACUUM to the wastegate.

Nah. Ya got other issues.


Next question.. autozone.. vacum pump 100 bucks.. Ac delco.. 170... Is there anyreason my broke college *** shouldn't buy the 100 dollar one and save the 70 to put a muffler or a tailgate on this beast ?


Personally, I would take this opportunity to put a Turbo-Master on. It's going to cost you about the same to buy the real thing (or you can try and make your own for about $10 - directions seem to be all over the place in here - and then you don't have to replace the vacuum pump.


And am i pretty safe to assume its the Vac pump now?


Did you test for vacuum right at the pump like I suggested? If you get no vacuum coming right from the pump, then yeah, it's dead.

But lines break, crack, get squashed, get plugged... if you didn't check it right off the pump, then no, you might NOT be safe making that assumption.


And pointers on taking the vac pump off and where you guys get to it at ? What you take off the truck to remove it ?

The damn thing comes off easily enough (once you find the bolts . there's a hole in the pulley that makes one easier to get at, as I recall), but you need to get a shorter belt once the pump is gone.

Ya might want to try reading this:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87432

has some pictures, at least.

I keep getting told by outsiders and by kennedy diesel to leave the vac pump and stock stuff in and to get a chip later on that can use all of this...

whats the upsides and down sides to making a mech wastegate control.. And of coarse friday i'm leaving for a 3 day problem 1000-1500 mile trip towing 20ft car hauler with jeep frame, body and some other crap.

Also today when i was pulling out hard i did notice some smoke... and it seemed to be blackish.. maybe white though... but no one else with me thought it was white ish looking....

I keep getting told by outsiders and by kennedy diesel to leave the vac pump and stock stuff in and to get a chip later on that can use all of this...


HUH? From my point of view, that's just silly. One of the problems you face with the traditional vacuum wastegate is that the damn truck sometimes makes up its own mind to reduce boost when you need it the most -- merging onto a freeway with a load on, pulling out to pass... stuff like that.

A mech. controller lets you set boost at a constant level and leave it there.

I got mine put in and never looked back - and I pull a 30' 10,000 lb fifth wheel through the mountains. Mind you, I also put in bigger, less-restrictive exhaust, a chip, and a new fan clutch.


whats the upsides and down sides to making a mech wastegate control.. And of coarse friday i'm leaving for a 3 day problem 1000-1500 mile trip towing 20ft car hauler with jeep frame, body and some other crap.


Haven't found a downside. Upside is the truck breathes better, seems to run smoother, and has better power and response.


Also today when i was pulling out hard i did notice some smoke... and it seemed to be blackish.. maybe white though... but no one else with me thought it was white ish looking....

Yeah, unburned diesel will do that. Here's the problem:

When you push on it, you're sending a signal to the ECM to dump in more fuel ... that's all diesels do - burn fuel, suck in air, push out exhaust. When you get more fuel than air, you get high EGTs, and black smoke. When your turbo works properly, it pushes in more air - clears up the smoke, lowers EGT, and the truck puts through more air.

If you could get enough air in, and enough exhaust out, you could keep dumping more fuel in and make huge power. But you're limited in the first and third ones... air in and exhaust out.

A properly designed chip will feed the max fuel for your engine's ability to breathe, and that is easiest to determine with a mech. controller, in my humble opinion.

Take a look around here and see how many guys have "turbo-master' or 'mech. wastegate controller' in their signatures. Don't take my work for it, ask them.

Call Bill Heath at Heathdiesel, and ask him.

But check your vac. pump for vacuum at the pump. As long as the pulley is OK, you can just leave it right where it sits.

I did.

Hey first off thanks a million for spending the time to help out and explain!

Now i guess my hangup on this boost controler deal is that when i hear mech boost controller i see a wastegate closed shut and the motor not getting consistant boost or completly overboosting. I guess i need to look over the design of these things again but when i compare this to my s10 turbo build i have no idea how it could be anything but a constantly variable system, and how could the tunning match the boost pressures if the computer wasn't deciding both of the factors boost and fuel.

Where can i get this boost controler.. who sells it..
I will also start searching for the home made deal..

I'm also concerned that with a mech wastegate control will lead to me needing boost gauge, then some addition of fuel either by chip or something else, and then a pyro gauge. Which isn't out of the question for this truck, but not at the moment with the money i've had to spend on this truck latley and that jeep and s10 in my sig..

Can i put a mech boost controler on without a boost gauge? i wouldn't mind the boost gauge but if i need a chip and pyro now then its probably not in the books for right now

Hey first off thanks a million for spending the time to help out and explain!


No prob... lots of guys took the time to help me.


Now i guess my hangup on this boost controler deal is that when i hear mech boost controller i see a wastegate closed shut and the motor not getting consistant boost or completly overboosting. I guess i need to look over the design of these things again but when i compare this to my s10 turbo build i have no idea how it could be anything but a constantly variable system, and how could the tunning match the boost pressures if the computer wasn't deciding both of the factors boost and fuel.


Yeah, I know what you mean. The problem is, the system on these trucks really doesn't work all that well. When you watch your boost gauge for a while, you start seeing some really wierd things, like the damn thing reducing boost when you need it.

The spring-controlled wastegate controller just plain looks too simple to work well... but work well it does. It provides for constant levels of boost (mine runs about 12 lb), and having too much air is NEVER a bad thing (too much pressure, on the other hand, IS... but at a steady 12 lb, my truck runs better than it ever did.

I didn't want to build my own... you gotta get the right spring tension, the right amount of travel, lots of stuff like that. Some of the guys who built their own say they have to re-adjust them every so often, depending on load, etc. Probably got something not quite right in the design.


Where can i get this boost controler.. who sells it..
I will also start searching for the home made deal..


For about $100, I bought one from Bill Heath ... I figure since he holds the patent on it, and invented the darn thing, he's the guy to buy it from... Set it, and forget it.


You can check it out on his website at www.heathdiesel.com (http://www.heathdiesel.com).
He has a toll-free number where you can call him, and he'll be glad to talk to you about it, and about troubleshooting your truck (you might have noticed, some of us been disagreeing about your issues. That code 78 is strange). He's a wealth of information, like most of the vendors around here, and is a good guy. Also like the vendors around here.

alright i'm going to call heath in the morning and talk this over with him. So basically we know my truck with no vacum is getting whatever boost ..If any that it wants based on where ever the shaft ends up.. So this is definetly something that needs to be fixed before i do any long distance or towing..

Also once i do the mech wastegate am i stuck to ONLY heaths chips? i am guessing everything kennedy diesel does is based on the stock vacum pump etc etc being in place.

Also, do i understand this right.. that the 93 trucks had a spring operated wastegate and the 94 and 95's got the vacum setup?

alright i'm going to call heath in the morning and talk this over with him. So basically we know my truck with no vacum is getting whatever boost ..If any that it wants based on where ever the shaft ends up.. So this is definetly something that needs to be fixed before i do any long distance or towing..

Also once i do the mech wastegate am i stuck to ONLY heaths chips? i am guessing everything kennedy diesel does is based on the stock vacum pump etc etc being in place.

Nope. The chips will TRY to control boost, but they won't be able to with the mech. controller. What will happen is that they will still monitor boost levels, IAT, and control the fuel that way ... so you can use anyone's chips. Personally, I use Heath's chip because that's all built into the curve, but that's your choice. Do your research.

You need to remember that turbo on a gasser is different than turbo on a diesel... on a gasser, you have to worry about mixture ratio... on a diesel, you just keep adding fuel. If you have too much air, no problem. Gassers control rpm through controlling the air, adn adjust fuel to maintain mixture.

Diesels don't mind having too much air. They hate not having enough.

Talk to Bill. If you're not sure, call another vendor. Ask somebody else.

But I bet after you talk with him, you end up doing like I did.

Alright i talked to Heath, he does seem to have a very good grasp on all of this as i knew he would. But he didn't offer any explanations about the code 78 with no vacum except he said my vac pump MUST be making vacum at some point, it just must not be doing it at idle.

So i guess if i wanted to proove that theory i could just take the truck back out again with the new solenoid and go up a hill and see if i get check engine light. If i didn't then i would know at 2000 rpms i have vacum and the solenoid was actually bad.

My biggest holdback here is just taking factory technology that is what everyone pays big bucks for on the gas side to put on turbo setups and going to take it off and put on some mechnical thing.. knowing with a chip that could control that soleniod you could do anything.. but i dunno its a draw..

160 dollar vac pump and 350 dollar kennedy diesel chip..
109 turbo master and 350 dollar heath chip...

Same result, mostly same cost, which one is a better more reliable setup?

Make your own boost controller for around $5.....problem solved...

Make the controller, spend the money on Boost and EGT gages, then work for the chip, cooling, and 'cooler

Any case - DTC78 is over-Boost - troubleshooting without a vacuum gage can be done much better with a Boost gage

Alright, hit me.. how do i build this boost controller ? I will put a boost gauge on today and build the controler.. if all else fails and it doesn't work by tommorrow i will buy the turbo master or vacum pump as a last minute to fix the truck...

Link me!... because for the love of god i've been reading threads for 20 minutes and not getting a good HOW TO, on what to do here....

Where should i install the boost reference at? for the gauge

Also what is factory boost? how much boost can i run before i get a code or start loose power or hurt the motor without a chip to add fuel?

Hey mods.....can we put a siren and blinking lights around the search button?????

A quick search will come up with this: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67572

As far as the boost question goes....stay safe and keep it under 10 psi sustained...

I vote for a small electric shock if you DON'T click the search button :D

Thats cool.. say what you'd like, have your fun with me.. :rotflmao: i spend hours and hours a day searching this forum trying to get this truck running reliable. But i know how tempting it is to be a search nazi when you know exactly where it is.

Thanks again!

thats pretty much what we were thinking about building so that works, picking up parts, gauges, mounts tonight.. we'll see how it goes.

I am trying to figure out which gauge.. 15psi or 30psi? I think i'm going to go with the 15psi... I doubt i need more then 15psi ever.. what do you guys think

I really like the 15 PSI gauge, but if you go by gauge selection standards, you choose one that the normal operating range is in the middle of the gauge's scale.

I bought the 30 psi gauge because I intend on going 18:1 when this engine dies...

I bought the 30 psi gauge because I intend on going 18:1 when this engine dies...

Turn up your TurboMaster, Chrisk! You can go 18:1 sooner than you think!

Yeah, Chris - and don't forget pics - that post would be useless without pics! ! !):h

I think a vid clip would be better......kaboom - followed by crying from the driver's seat...

lol, no need to go blowing up perfectly good 6.5L's

I picked up the 2 gauge pillar mount,
VDO 0-15 boost gauge
VDO 0-1600 pyro gauge...

there goes like 200 bucks lol

Off to home depot in the morning to get some springs to start trying this crap out.

Also whats the deal with the 10k pot,... I assume this is just a way of fooling the computer to thinking it is seeing more or less boost to make it dump more fuel in to match the increased boost? how big of a deal is this, to install and performance wise,.. i plan on putting a chip in it in the next couple months as long as we get all the issues worked out.. and maybe a working tailgate.. lol

Also yet another question to throw out for you guys in the morning..

What should my EGT's be? I am going to mount it after the turbo on the dp for now. Hopefully between turbo and firewall on the truck right in there...