does any one have a link to how to install the SD sleves. I am planing on doing it this weekend and want to make sure I do it right.
I am good at messing stuff like this up.

Brother, have you tried a search? Just asking... I will try to assist you.

I tryed and got a lot of randomish stuff .
I was hoping for a group of set steps easyer for my mind to lay out I am odd like that

Okay, think I found what you are looking for:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1110059&postcount=11

read that and then on that page, click on the upper left hand link/name "here".

Hopefully this info assists you.

LATE!!!!!!!

cool thank you

that is the one I was looking for to much reading gets me confused

There's a better one in McRats in vendors section.

Here are the instructions that Michael sent me when I installed mine. I also have some pics in my garage for reference... Hope this helps.

INSTRUCTIONS!

You will need a jack strong enough to lift the front of the truck and two jack stands. A 13/16 box end wrench and a 7/8 open end wrench. A second 7/8 or 8 to 10 inch adjustable wrench. And a hammer. First you block up the rear tires of the truck. Next you loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels {don't remove them yet} Next you lift the front of the truck and put the jack stands under the A-arm to support the truck. Let the truck rest on the jack stands. Next remove the lug nuts and the wheels. You will see where the tie rod comes to the wheel spindle housing. That's where the bolt come strait up from the ball joint at the end of the tie rod close to the wheel. Loosen the 7/8 jam nut that locks the ball joint end to the tie rod itself. After backing off the jam nut, mark a small spot on the threads with a file or a hack saw blade close to the ball joint housing {a small mark will do} This is so when you reassemble, the tie rod can be aligned properly with no need for an alignment. Next you take the 13/16 nut loose from the ball joint end that goes up through the spindle housing and nock it loose with the hammer. You can hit it on the protrusion sticking out past the threads. Don't worry I've done it lots of times, it won't damage anything. You have to give it a pretty good smack. The ball joint end will now fall loose and you can unscrew it from the tie rod end. Next remove the jam nut and put a little grease on the threads {this is for ease of adjustment later} Now screw on the sleeve with the cleared end going on first. Next put the jam nut on {if you have a lift kit on the truck you may not be able to reinstall this. If this is the case just us the sleeves} and then the ball joint end. Make sure you screw the sleeve and jam nut on far enough to see the mark you made on the threads earlier. Screw the ball joint up to that point and put the other end of it up into the spindle housing the way it came out. Put the 13/16 nut back on. You may need to hold the protrusion past the threads with something so you can tighten down the bolt down. Next tighten the jam nut up against the ball joint housing and then the sleeves up against the jam nut. Tighten them good. next reinstall the wheel and the lug nuts and remove the truck from the stands. Retighten the lug nut and do it again after 100 or so miles.

Not wanting to steal your thread but are these sleves the items that stop the tires from toeing in during sled pulling competitions??

Do you retain the stock tie rod ends? I know the rod from the inner to outter tie rod looks smaller than the steering rod on my snowmobile.-:t

No They Only Protect Your Tie Rods From Bending. Which Is The First Thing To Go.

Sd's Tie Rod Sleeves Are The Best You Can Buy And Very Easy To Install Just Make A Mark On The Tie Rod At The Outer Rod End (back Off The Nut) Then Unscrew The Rod End Put The Sleeve On And Put The Rod End Back On To The Mark You Made With A Hex Saw Blade And Tighten The Nut And Tighten The Sleeve All Done....

it was a very easy to do I was just over thinking it thanks for the help guys