Fuel Filter Bleeder Valve Kit

I have changed several Dmax fuel filters on other guys trucks. I never gave much thought on what a mess bleeding the filter can be until I did my own a couple of weeks ago.

Right away I set out to find a better way and I beleive I have found it.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/A8B_BV1.jpg


I replaced the OEM bleed screw with this adapter and valve.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/4AB_BV3.jpg

I used poly tubing to route the fuel away from the filter so it could be caught in a can and not be all over the engine.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/6F9_BV4.jpg

I ran the poly tubing through a hole that was already in the fender liner. It worked out prefect becase a 3 lb coffee can will set on the A frame right under the tubing to catch the fuel.

You can order this complete kit HERE. (http://www.lubespecialist.com/Order/order.mv)

Greg

Greg,


As of this post, your picture of this item on your website does not show up.


Have you given any thought to your customers that have already bought your SS bleed screw, like some sort of discount or exchange for this new system?

Great ideahttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif...But, I believe, after looking at my truck, this will not work on a truck with an EGR. Looks like it would need an elbow between the filter head and the valve.


Greg, need test truck?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

This valve is on my new LLY . I am not sure but I don't think the EGR is any different on the LB7.





Greg

Greg,


THis looks like a very cool solution to the fuel mess, but any problems with the valve leaking, i.e. air into the system?


JPEdited by: Heartbeat Hauler

No leaks what so ever. This is a needle valve with a good seating sureface. It also has adjustable packing.

Greg

I am not sure but I don't think the EGR is any different on the LB7


On EGR equipped LB7's, there is a vacuum line assembly right above the fuel primer pump (as WanaDmxsub mentions). As pictured, it will not work. One could probably adapt something though. Great idea for everyone else.

I'm thinking that a 45deg elbow or maybe a 2" extension would solve the problem.


I'll post a pick of my filter head this weekend so that you can see the problem.


I still think this is a great idea!!!

Greg, nice set up here. If your not to busy maybe you can install a few ice maker lines for me. Just kiddinghttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif


Everyone who does this be carefull. This a machined piece of brass with a stainless steel needle valve. It is not a perfect seat. It can leak on you over time. This is because of the expansion and contraction of the brass with heat. I recommend pulling off the tubing and installing a 1/4" compression cap on the outlet to prevent it from leaking. Trust me, this happens all the time with ice maker lines. The other caution is, not crank to hard on the needle when shutting it off.


My 2cents as a plumbing contractor.Edited by: Pure Diesel

This valve is NOT a brass body with a stainless stem. Its brass on brass with a stainless handle. If you take the line off then you have lost the whole purpose of the valve.





Greg

Landuytg, I only mean to cap it off when your not in the process of bleeding it. When you go to change the filter, simply take the cap off and reconnect up the hose. Still, think it is a nice set up. I just did my first filter change this afternoon and could have used something like this. Instead of putting a bunch of rags around to catch the spill.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif

The design works great! I took the ORIGIONAL SS screw from Kennidy, machined off the screw driver part and tapped for NPT and installed the needle vlave. Works great!

Pilot

Here are the Pic's. Wish I had all the room that most everone else has!!!


After looking at these, I just maybe SOL. Not a lot of room for anything in there.








http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Filter_head_2.jpg





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Filter_head_4.jpg














http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Filter_head_3.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Filter_head_1.jpg

WanaDmxsub


Looks to me that it would work,you have plenty of head room and all you need to do is get the wiring harness pushed over. Or is their something I am not seeing? I am sure that I will see a CA Dmax next weekend in MT that I could look at.





Greg

Here is a shot of the valve at eye level. It will need about 1/2"-3/4" of clearence to work.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/F5Z_bv.jpg
When I get them in by I can send you one to try.
Greg

Good idea Greg. A far better solution than using shop cloths to catch the excess.

Greg,


I'll give you a call later this week and order a valve and some filters that will be due to be replace in a couple of weeks.


Thanks

Greg,


nice fitting- i knew i'd seen that somewhere beforehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


if you look at the pictures in this post you will see how you can adapt it to a LB7 should you wish as clearance would be a problem with the current setup.


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10123&PN=1

Was hoping to see a CA LB7 over the weekend but their was any there. I am sure this thing will still work. Have been a big hit and more one the way.

Greg

These have been overwhelmingly popular and we ran out. We now have plenty in stock.





Greg

Here it is on a ’04 LB7 “CA. SMOG”.
To say it is tight is an understatement. But, it does fit and works great!!!
1<SUP>st</SUP> thing, after you drain the fuel, is to remove the electrical plug. (It’s a b!tch if you undo the bolt first, just believe me)

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Bleeder_valve_unplug.jpg

Then undue this 10mm bolt. I had this bolt in and out several times (see above). It’s hard to tell if it’s going in straight or being cross threaded because of the rubber water (?) line directly above it. I never did cross thread it. Also my nut driver was to short so I used a 12” extension and a socket. The bolt was hand tight using both hands on the extension (No wrench)

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Bleeder_valve_bolt.jpg

Once you undue the bolt this can be moved out of the way. On the back side, from this pic, are some vacuum (?) lines. You will be able to move it far enough with out undoing any of those lines.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Bleeder_valve_obstacle.jpg

The easiest way to install the valve is to (have someone else do it) find a helper. Have them push the pump down and hold it down. Other wise you will not be able to get more than a 1/8<SUP>th</SUP> of a turn at a time. You can also hold it down yourself…but it <B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">should[/B] be much easier if someone else did that.

<IMG onMouseOver="this.style.cursor='hand'" onMouseOut="this.style.

LanduytG:


Thanks for a great innovation here. Thanks in part to this forum, I found you and this product and have not had to suffer from cleaning up a mess when Ive had to bleed the fuel system. Installed my Racor pre OEM, and this thing was the shiznit!!!


Thanks a million!!!


OH, and if you guys out there dont have this, you need it....or else have a fun time cleaning up the fuel spill!


Doug

Do you leave the poly line on there all the time? If so any problems with it melting from the heat or anything?





Another thing I just thought of, do you need to seal those threads with anything, if so what? I would not want a leak but also don't want what I use to seal being drawn into the injectors.Edited by: bigdog

BigDog


I leavethe poly attached and in 11000 miles not a problem. Yes I wouls use a pipe thread sealing paste, not tape.





Greg

Thanks Greg it looks like a real nice setup. Does it come with that tubing?


Another stupid question, when you are priming the filter (using this valve or the bleeder screw) what keeps it from sucking air back in when you release the plunger?

The plunger draws another dose of fuel when released not air. Yes the valve comes with everything.





Greg

That is good to hear it doesn't suck back air when you release the plunger. I looked at mine and not sure I have a hole in the fender liner like you had in the pic so will have to add one I guess. Edited by: bigdog

why not take plug out stick the hose into hole, do the bleeding, then remove hose &amp; replace plug?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif

chickentruck


Because it will leak fuel around the hose or might pop out when your pressing the plunger. Then your defeating the purpose of this. Better to just attach the hose and be done with it. Thats what I did.


D

The only problem I have found with it is the fuel that is left in the hose after purging. That can slowly leak out over all over. Not real sure how to fix it other than some kind of vent in the hose to let it fully drain???

The only problem I have found with it is the fuel that is left in the hose after purging. That can slowly leak out over all over. Not real sure how to fix it other than some kind of vent in the hose to let it fully drain???

I just wiggle the line and it drains. Might be a drop or two left on the end, but no big deal.

Jim

^^^^Yeah, what he said!!!^^^^

I just take the hose off when I prime it, then the fuel drains out as I take it off. . . I just put it on finger tight, but it's enough to keep the mess where I want it. . .

Then next time I put a new filter on, put the hose back on and prime away. . .

Dennis

are the seats and packing oil and gasoline rated?? i have never seen needle valves use in automotives..

Metal to metal seat so oil or gas does not matter. Packing has been fine.

Greg