I want to pull this


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/314_DSC01106.JPG


with this
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/311_dp_logo_sm.jpg

my truck has the short bed and I need to know what type of goose neck hitch will provide the best turning radius an friend (burner) told me of one that allows the ball to sit 9 inches back farther than standard. Any help would be appreciated.......dave

Is this too much trailor for a 3/4 ton duramax short bed?

Do you have a sliding 5th wheel?

no but i can change the hitch to this(have not bought one yet) the trailor weighs about 9800 loaded witgh 2 harleys

I’d get a slider 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel. I have seen a goose-neck sprint car trailer used with one. He had a ball adapter of some sort. I have also seen a replacement adapter for the trailer, like this one (http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&amp;Store_Code=E&amp;Product_Code= 2085205&amp;Category_Code=FWGNA1). This site has a few pictures of hitches as well.

Be careful, I have seen a couple of truck damaged by the driver forgetting to slide it back before backing into a tight camping space. Extend the Pin (http://www.etrailer.com/faq/fifthwheelfaq.asp) on the trailer....

First of all I would not pull that trailer with a 3/4 ton non dually.


Second of all is it a gooseneck?....looks like it!


With that said get a drawtite or reese 'Remove a ball'.


Make sure the installer has both the truck and trailer at his location so he can make measurements of both. He needs to measure the trailer and truck bed and then he will be able to install the hitch so it fits!

First of all I would not pull that trailer with a 3/4 ton non dually.

this has become my thoughts too!!!.....thanks guys

Dave,


If that trailer really weighs under 10K, the only reason not to pull it with your rig is the chace of turning it into the cab. Just be sure to have a good brake controller and know that the trailer brakes work as good as they should. Many of us pull 5ers that weigh that and more. With good trailer brakes mine will stop nearly as short as the pickup alone.

Dave,

That load, depending on the the weight on the king pin is definitely within the capability of your truck.

TC

Echo those who say your truck can handle it and think due to the short bed you are wise to try and make every effort to do so safely ... Jim

S Dave check out my reference to Kwick Hitch in the hitches post, I really like it more each time I use it. I can turn almost sideways to the trailer, but it has a long neck, ball is 2-3" forward of diff center of bed tomorrow I'll shoot a photo of it in daylight as for capability of the truck to do the job no worries there either I just pulled my tractor, trailer, impliments from up at the camp 200 miles no problems, total GVR 18,700, trailer load was 11,500 of the load I have uprated rear springs, 3300lb rated rims, power stop rotors, pads, trailerbrakes and Tekonsha controller 60mph on hills &amp; 75 flat grade 11.3 mpg I'm very pleased with the set up so far. I just reread your sig you have a juiced DMAX I would definately say no problem then, I'm doing it with a moderately modded 6.5Edited by: Turbine Doc

bought one just like this in great condition for $8000 going to remove the booth seating in the kitchen and add a rear door with a ramp for my harley
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8BE_fiver.jpg 4800lbs empty(no water) should not be a problem

Duallys are more stable (considerably) when pulling big trailers. IMHO!


I personally don't like to pull 10000lbs with a 2500. I have done it many many miles. But prefer the dually.

I whole heartedly agree if pulling a 10K load continiously dually would be the way to go, as I mostly run empty or only light tow a 6 wheel atv &amp; trailer, or my Bronco II off road beater, and only occasional short trip pull 200 mile, pull 12K of JD tractor/trailer &amp; impliments my modded K1500 is up to the task. Attached are photos of the lock load set up and Roadmaster overload set up that helps out. Pulling out red lever allows ball to pop up.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Z4Z_MVC-001S.JPG


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8F9_MVC-002S.JPG


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/ZD1_MVC-003S.JPG


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8D7_MVC-004S.JPGEdited by: Turbine Doc

Rest of the photos max is 4 maybe, L/L set up bolts to frame on top of rails under bed with angle and stiffener plate between rails 30K rated, and can be adapted to 5th wheel pull. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/CFA_MVC-005S.JPG





Edited by: Turbine Doc

Roadmaster Setup www.activesuspension.com (http://www.activesuspension.com) does an excellent job with overload help on rear and also nearly eliminates sway from axle wrap as resistance is tied to the frame not just extra weight carry like in air bags or conventional overload springs.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/F9B_MVC-006S.JPG


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/ZF3_MVC-011S.JPGEdited by: Turbine Doc

Posts must be size limited last pichttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/147_MVC-007S.JPG

thanks to all and great pics doc

Sdaver - I think before you make that door for that harley you'd better check that you're not going to overload the rear axle on that trailer. Those lighter trailers typically have light axles on them and don't have much room left for extra weight, well motorcycle kinda weight anyway. And then is the frame strong enough? I've been wrestling as well as to how to put my 5th wheel and Goldwing together to go down the road. Don't think I can do it with the trailer I have now. I liked that first trailer you had on here. Something like that would work good for me I think! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

http://www.a1warriortrailers.com/


theres what ya want.